I currently live in a rented home, and while I love the gorgeous sage green walls in my living room, the rest of the house is sadly a plain renter-friendly white.

I've been looking for ages for ways I can work around this in order to add color to my space, and I think I've found the perfect solution. TikToker @itsmeshelbyturner has gone viral for her genius hack of painting over peel-and-stick wallpaper, and designers agree that it's a smart way to avoid upsetting your landlord.

If you're looking for DIY ideas that you can do in a rental that are easy and will transform your space, this one is well-worth trying.

Painting over peel-and-stick wallpaper is a great idea for those who are looking to update their walls without the commitment of permanent wallpaper.

“It offers a cost-effective solution for those who want to redecorate frequently without incurring the expense of removing and installing new wallpaper each time,” says Jonathan Faccone, design expert and founder of Halo Homebuyers.

“I often recommend this method to my clients who are on a budget but still want to refresh their home's interior,” he continues.

If you want to try this at home, Jonathan suggests starting by properly cleaning and preparing the walls. “This may include using a mild detergent and water solution to remove any dirt or residue, as well as sanding down any rough spots or bumps on the wall surface.”

He suggests removing any outlet covers or switch plates before painting to ensure a clean and professional finish.

“My secret tip is using sandpaper or a sanding block (the Gator Sanding Blocks from Walmart are bestsellers), as this can help create a smoother surface for painting, as the peel-and-stick wallpaper may not be completely smooth,” Jonathan says.

He also recommends to make sure you use a fresh roll of wallpaper, as painting over damaged or peeling wallpaper can result in an uneven and unsatisfactory finish.

As well as picking on trend interior paint colors, the kind of paint you select also matters a lot.

“Pick high-quality acrylic latex paints, avoiding those with moisture, like matte finishes, which may make lifting worse,” explains Tony Hoang, design expert at What a Room.

He continues, “Opt for a satin or semi-gloss finish for durability, especially in high-traffic areas.”

Once you’ve applied this, make sure to add a clear topcoat, such as the Minwax Polycrylic from Amazon. “This will give it extra protection against peeling in places like kitchens and bathrooms that can be quite humid,” Tony adds.

Whether you're renting or just don't want to commit to painting your walls, this TikTok painted wallpaper hack is a total winner.

Want to carry on scoping out useful advice from the all-knowing app? These TikTok DIY fall decor ideas are so cute and perfect for this season. Or, make sure your home is chic and stylish by following TikTok design trends.

Painting bathroom tile is a task commonly undertaken by homeowners looking to update their bathroom without spending a fortune or having to put up with a load of disruption and mess involving stripping away existing tiles.

If this is a job that you fancy giving a go, make sure you get well prepared with the right tools for the job and a paint that is suitable for use on tile - you can't use just any old paint you have lying around and expect perfect results. 

We asked a range of decorating experts for their advice on how to do this job for the best possible finish for your bathroom tile ideas and the longest-lasting results - and the best news is that you could totally transform your bathroom in this way in just one weekend.

How to paint bathroom tile like a pro

You will no doubt be keen that you get the very best results for all your efforts and that is where our expert's advice is going to help. They have come up with everything from the perfect products for the job to how to prepare your existing tile for the best possible outcome. 

What you'll need to paint bathroom tile

Tools:

• Tack cloth - these Dura-Gold Superior Tack Cloths from Amazon are a great option and come in a pack of 12 
• Putty knife
• 120-grit sandpaper
• Drop cloth
• Paint tray
• Paint roller
• Paint brush
  

Materials:

• Trisodium phosphate
• Waterproof spackle (filler)
• Caulk
• Primer Epoxy or two-process paint
• Polyurethane sealer - try Shabby Chic Multi Surface Clear Coat Sealant from Amazon
• Masking tape

1. Prepare your existing tile for painting

As with so many small bathroom upgrades, the key to success tends to lie in putting in the right preparation work.

"When starting a tile painting project, you'll need a very clean and porous surface for the primer and paint to adhere to," says Michael Clarke, founder of Yardwork and Pulled. "Therefore it's best to start by giving the tile a thorough clean with a mixture of warm water and trisodium phosphate. Once you've cleaned the tile with this solution, you'll want to rinse it well with clean warm water and then dry completely with a tack cloth."

"Here’s a tip!" adds Baltimore-based licensed contractor Jay Sander. "To achieve the best results, use a solution of 1/4 cup trisodium phosphate per gallon of water."

SamaN TSP Eco Heavy Duty Cleanser and Degreaser from Amazon comes ready to use.

2. Make any necessary tile repairs

You will obviously want a perfect finish when it comes to your bathroom design and this means repairing any cracked or broken tile before you begin painting. 

"You'll want to repair any chipped or broken tiles with waterproof spackle (filler)," explains Michael Clarke. "Once you are finished with this step, the next step is to sand the tile with 120-grit sandpaper to remove any glazing on the tile, then rinse the area again with clean water and dry with a tack cloth." 

Finally, use your masking tape to cover the areas you don't want to be painted and lay your drop cloths over your floors and sanitaryware to protect them.

3. Prime the tile

"Perhaps the most important step before applying any paint is to prime the surface with two applications of primer that is formulated for tile," says Michael Clarke.

"It is critical to use a primer that is suitable for tiles," confirms Jay Sander. "It will ensure the paint adheres well. Remember, for better results, you must allow the primer to dry for at least 24 hours."

"Use a high-quality primer like XIM to create a paintable surface on the tiles," suggests Brandon Walker, Construction Manager at ASAP Restoration LLC.

Something like Rust-Oleum UMA Interior/Exterior Multi-purpose Water-based Wall and Ceiling Primer from Lowes would be perfect for the job.

It tends to be easiest to use a brush to apply your primer, but you could use a roller. Take time to look into the best paint rollers for the job as you want a smooth, even finish. 

4. Paint the tile

Now for the bit that will take your tile from shabby to super stylish right before your very eyes - applying your chosen paint. Make sure you take into account the bathroom color ideas you have used elsewhere in the space first. 

"Applying thin coats and allowing each coat to dry thoroughly, will provide the best results," advises Michael Clarke.

"You can use a brush or roller for this process," says Jay Sander. "Don't forget to cover both tiles and grout. Let the paint dry properly. If required, apply a second coat.

"It is critical to remember that before applying the next coat, you should let it dry for 6-8 hours. Repeat the same process every time you require a coat."

This Pro Grade- Paint Roller Set from Amazon offers great value for money. 

5. Apply a sealant

Your final step should be to seal your tile - this will ensure a longer-lasting finish and make your hard work worthwhile. If you have opted for real stone for your bathroom floor tile ideas you will also need to ensure they are properly sealed. 

"Add a layer of polyurethane sealer to protect your surface," suggests Michael Clarke.

"Though this step is optional, it is important to know that it can provide extra durability," points out Jay Sanders. "It is recommended for high-traffic areas."

Check out Miracle Sealants SEENPT6 511 Seal & Enhance Color & Gloss Enhancers from Amazon.

FAQs

What paint is best for tile?

Just as when painting walls, it is crucial that you use the right products for the materials you are working with and the room you are applying them in. 

"Epoxy or a two-process paint is best for tile applications as they are more durable and resistant to moisture and heat than other types of paint," says Michael Clarke.

"The primer is one of the most important steps, but after you’ve primed, Rostoleum makes a solid tub and tile paint," adds Brandon Walker.

You could also try Galitoon Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit from Amazon.

Is it a good idea paint bathroom tile?

While this is a quick way to get a bathroom makeover, it is not necessarily right for those after a more long-term solution and some professionals would advice against it. 

"In the best case scenario it won’t adhere for very long, and in the worst case it will harbor mold growth and cause rotting behind the tiles inside of the wall when water vapor can’t escape," warns Brandon Walker.

"The paint may peel over time, thus, it is not ideal for high-moisture areas like showers," adds Jay Sanders.

How long does it take to paint bathroom tile?

This is a great option for anyone looking for a really quick way to give their bathroom a new look - perhaps a temporary solution for homeowners who have just taken on a fixer-upper.

"The length of time it will take to paint over the tile will depend on how big of a tiled area you are trying to cover," says Brandon Walker. "Most bathrooms can be treated, prepped and primed in one day, and painted with finishing coats over the next two days depending on amount of coverage."

If your bathroom project has inspired you to give other rooms in your home a quick makeover in the same way it is well worthwhile looking into painting tiles elsewhere - such as in the kitchen.

If, on the other hand, you have decided rip out your old tiles and start again, it is time to look into how to choose bathroom tiles that will suit your particular space and look great for many years to come. 

When we purchased our Edwardian cottage we were in something of a desperate situation. We had moved from the cute, but quite compact, Victorian terrace we’d renovated, into a rental. We rushed our decision, thinking that this would be nothing more than a temporary stopgap. Big mistake. We ended up staying in that too-small paper-thin-walled house on a new development.

Both my husband and I grew up in old houses and love the history and character that ‘lived-in’ properties have. We took one look around this cottage that we still call home, built in 1915, and knew it had to be ours. 

The only thing was, we were a little limited budget-wise so were keen to save on house renovation costs wherever we could. We had to quite quickly become experts in the field of DIY renovation. I’m here to reveal which jobs were surprisingly easy and that you are probably quite capable of tackling, just like we did.

Easy DIY jobs that will save you money

There are loads of DIY house renovation jobs that are well within the capabilities of most people - we found that the key to success was researching what was involved thoroughly, getting prepared by ensuring we had all the necessary tools and materials to hand, and setting aside enough time for each task. Oh, and lots and lots of measuring - then measuring again!

1. Laying the engineered wood flooring

Who knew that installing an engineered wood floor was a job that could transform a house in a day? Seriously, when we set out, cutting and fitting the underlay, I had no idea that later that day I’d be admiring a finished floor. 

In our previous renovation, we’d laid an engineered wooden floor all wrong. Don’t misunderstand me, it was a beautiful floor, a rich walnut, but oh my, it was more than a little bouncy underfoot. 

That meant that I was a little dubious when it came to installing a floating engineered floor in our shiny new home. I needn’t have worried though. Turns out, if you prepare your subfloor properly and use a good quality underlay you’ll be just fine.

Our flooring was from Kahrs and is an engineered oak. It, like most of the best engineered wood flooring, has tongue-and-groove edges that simply fit together and we used a circular saw to cut the boards to length. 

This Bruce Frisco Natural Oak flooring from Lowes has a similar appearance.  

2. Fitting the wall paneling

I love timber wall paneling and was keen to introduce it into our living room design scheme to add a bit of interest. 

We were aiming for a modern country look throughout. There are lots of original features and little quirks that naturally lend character to the house so we introduced some more up-to-date features to work alongside these. This included looking into wall paneling ideas that would add a fresh finish to the space. 

In the living room, we stripped the walls right back to the bare brickwork as the plaster was in such bad condition, falling away. We had three of the walls plastered but chose one wall to fit the paneling. Rather than buying a kit, we bought pine boards with tongue and groove edges. 

We attached timber battens horizontally across the width of the wall before nailing the boards to these. 

Finally, we primed the boards and painted them a soft creamy gray - similar to Valspar’s Seashell Gray from Lowes.  

3. Building the stud walls

While adding two new extensions, we also totally remodeled the existing layout of this house to make it work better for us. This meant blocking up some doorways, knocking down some internal walls, and building some new stud walls.

If you are thinking of building a new stud wall, I’m here to tell you that this is a pretty straightforward task - although it is better if you can rope in a helper. 

To partially divide the dining room and snug, we built a four-foot-wide stud wall between the two.

We began by fitting a section of timber - often referred to as the floor plate - to the length of the floor that the new wall would cover. We used screws but you could use a nail gun if you prefer. Aim to get the screws or nails into the floor joists if you have them. We had a solid concrete floor so plugged and screwed directly into that, ensuring we didn't penetrate the damp-proof membrane. 

Next, we fitted a length of timber to the ceiling - the head plate. Again, you want to aim for the trusses or ceiling joists so you might need to go upstairs and lift a floorboard or two to find them. A stud finder such as the Mecurate Stud Finder Wall Scanner Sensor from Amazon will help here and can also alert you to the presence of pipework and wiring. 

Next are the wall studs - these should be fixed to the walls that the new wall is being built off between the floor and head plates. 

Then we fitted more studs between - at 600mm centers. To strengthen the whole structure we then fitted noggins (small horizontal pieces of timber) between the vertical studs.

Before fixing the drywall into place we ran in the electrics as we wanted an electrical outlet on the snug side of the wall. We also added in some insulation to make the new wall a little more soundproof. 

The whole thing was finished in around half a day.

4. Putting up drywall

To save on labor costs we decided to put up the drywall ourselves. Honestly, this is a job pretty much anyone could undertake although you’ll want to get someone to help you as large sheets of drywall are heavy and awkward, and holding them in place while fixing them up - particularly to the ceilings - is hard work.

To cut the drywall we used a drywall saw, but you can use a Stanley knife too. The Jorgensen Drywall Saw from Amazon would do the job well. 

You want to start at one corner of the wall you are covering and make sure that the end of the drywall sits midway across the stud it is being fixed to so that the next board can butt up to it. In areas where there was no stud to fix the drywall, we fitted noggins between studs. Make sure you use drywall screws designed for the job.

Once all the boards were in place we used drywall tape over the joins and then joint filler. We left the plastering to the pros but some homeowners do choose to look into how to plaster walls and decide to give it a go.

5. Fitting the push-fit plumbing

Plumbing was never a task I thought we’d be taking on ourselves and, in all honesty, this was a job where I played more of a support role to my husband who seems to have a knack for picking up new skills pretty quickly. 

There are now lots of products out there that make it far easier for DIYers to get to grips with plumbing - namely plastic push-fit connectors and pipework.

There are a number of brands that manufacture the push-fit system but we opted for JG Speedfit plastic pipe and fittings which you can buy from Amazon. The system works by securely grasping the pipe inserted with a toothed grip ring and sealing it with an o-ring seal. 

The use of inserts is also important, these are pushed into the pipe before inserting into the coupler. The benefits of using plastic pipe rather than copper are there are no expert plumbing skills involved such as soldering and you can also use longer sections to connect as they can be manipulated easier to fit. This makes the whole process quicker and more accessible to the DIYer. It’s also worth noting you can also use the push-fit system with copper pipe as well and can even get push-fit copper couplers.

We connected all the faucets for the bathrooms and kitchen sink using these systems and as a result, significantly reduced our new bathroom costs.

While the sense of achievement that you get from DIYing certain aspects of a home renovation is undeniable there are also a whole host of DIY jobs that aren't worth the effort in my opinion. Some things are just best left to the pros if you want a perfect final finish. 

Armed with the best DIY small space storage ideas you can feel confident that those clutter hotspots will be a thing of the past in as little as a day.

Storage space can be a real issue in smaller homes, but this is exactly where it is more important than ever that everything has a place - and the good news is that by thinking a little creatively, there is no need to opt for an expensive, bespoke option to house all your belongings neatly.

We asked DIY and home improvement experts for their favorite DIY projects when it comes to storage hacks for compact spaces, from those that now repurpose redundant containers to ways of transforming overlooked or wasted spaces within your home into stylish and useful areas to stash away your belongings. 

DIY small space storage ideas anyone can tackle

The best storage ideas for a small house need to be innovative and well planned out to ensure that you are using your space wisely and in a way that means the clutter you find building up on a daily basis is dealt with. 

"I have really enjoyed exploring DIY storage strategies," says Marshall Webber, CMO of Stor-It. "I see so many people using space insufficiently, so I think it is always great to find ways to optimize the home based on individual and family needs."

Many of the ideas here don't involve you pulling out the toolbox either, so whether you fancy getting to know your electric drill a little better or prefer the idea of a project that requires nothing more than items you have hanging around anyway, there will be something for you. 

1. Make use of alcoves or wasted corners

Corners of rooms and nooks, crannies and alcoves can all be put to good use as somewhere to slide in extra storage. That might be in the form of easy-to-install shelves, or perhaps you might get lucky and find a cabinet or shelving unit that fits exactly into the space. 

If you are feeling a little more ambitious with your alcove ideas it is usually fairly simple to build in cabinets - after all, three sides of your new unit will already be in place. You will need to secure timber battens to the walls to support the top of the cabinet and the new doors that will be attached to the front. You are then free to paint the new units in your choice of paint color and dress them up with fancy handles. 

This is exactly what was done to create this handy storage unit - the door was bought from eBay but the rest of the work was carried out on a DIY basis.

We love the Marigold Mushroom Knob Multipack from Wayfair for customizing cabinet doors. 

2. Don't underestimate how handy hanging rails are

The walls and ceilings are your best friends when it comes to finding storage ideas for small kitchens - and hanging racks can be used for anything, from pots and pans in the kitchen to accessories such as belts and hats in the bedroom. 

Hanging racks can be fashioned from all kinds of items, including laundry drying racks, squares of metal mesh, or even an old ladder, suspended from the ceiling. 

In this small apartment, the owners suspended a metal grid from the ceiling using sturdy chains - they can now hang all their pots and pans from here, freeing up cupboard space elsewhere. 

It isn't just the kitchen that can benefit from a hanging rack either.

"Install hanging storage systems or overhead shelves in the garage, and laundry room, to store rarely used items," advises Evelina Juzėnaitė, principal interior designer at Planner 5D.

3. Fit folding surfaces to the walls

In a small home, anything that folds or slides out of the way when not in use is unbelievably useful. Although it might sound like a complicated task to fit something like this on a DIY basis, there is actually no reason why it has to be. 

"Consider a wall-mounted folding desk or a fold-down laundry station for flexible workspaces," suggests Meaghan Kessman, professional home organizer at Meaghan Kessman Home Organization.

Self-confessed 'DIY addict' Stacy Risenmay charts all her projects on her website notjustahousewife.com and one of our favorites is this DIY fold-down desk she made for her nephew's bedroom - perfect for anyone after small office storage ideas.

She built a simple box frame to attach to the wall then made a desktop from plywood which she connected to the frame using small butt hinges. A corkboard fits snugly inside, along with some handy shelves. 

If you are not quite as confident of your DIY skills, you could buy a fold-down desk kit like this ARTETHYS Wall Mounted Fold Down Desk from Amazon.

4. Repurpose old storage items

If you thought your storage jars were only for pantry storage ideas involving filling them with dried goods and piling up them on shelves, think again - there are so many other ways to use them. 

"Turn mason jars into rustic organizers and repurpose old drawers as unique wall shelves," suggests Meaghan Kessman.

A brilliant idea is to take your old jars and transform them into magnetic storage containers for anything from spices to your smaller DIY bits and pieces such as screws and drill bits. 

"Consumers have become more focused on organization and storage for very specific purposes, likely inspired by the array of organization-themed shows," reflects Amber Shay, national design director at Meritage Homes. "For example, organizing everyday items, like snacks and supplies, into specific containers in the pantry. We’ve also seen storage being used as a decorative element lately, with containers in fun colors and designs to match the décor scheme."

Do what Linda Ly from Garden Betty did and begin by fixing a metal board or sheet to the wall or underside of a wall cabinet or shelf. You can then glue a good strong magnet into the underside of the lid of each jar so that it will hold tight to the sheet. Et voila! Your countertops are clutter-free and your bank balance looks healthy thanks to your thrifty idea. 

TRYMAG Neodymium Magnets from Amazon are strong and come in a pack of 60.

5. Get organized with a cost-effective pegboard

Pegboards of all shapes and sizes are brilliant for turning into storage spots on a DIY basis, whether you are after utility room storage ideas or a way of housing all your crafting bits and pieces.

"Pegboards are a really practical solution to providing more storage without taking up any more space," says Chelsea of Making Manzanita who designed and made this gorgeous giant pegboard wall. "Because this is mounted on the wall, it gives the room a little more interest, safely stores those essential craft items out of reach from little hands, and keeps the clutter at bay!"

She used an inexpensive MDF peg board as a template for her sheet of plywood which she drilled holes in for the pegs, painted, and adorned with a selection of hanging storage items. 

"Pegboards are incredibly versatile for small spaces," says Ornella Guerrero Bianco,
content marketing specialist at Fixr.com. "They can be used in kitchens to hang pots and pans, freeing up cabinet space, or in cleaning closets to organize supplies. Painting the pegboard can also add a decorative and personalized feature to the room."

6. Put your under-stairs space to better use

If there is one space that often seems to get underused it is the area beneath a staircase - yet it can offer so much in the way of storage and it is an easy DIY project to fit it out with all kinds of cabinets, units, or open shelving. 

"Convert under-stair space into a custom closet or install pull-out drawers for hidden storage," suggests Meaghan Kessman.

"Install built-in drawers or shelves, create a closet or pantry from the area if space allows, or even design a workspace or playroom," adds Marshall Webber.

If you are wondering how to create under-stairs storage, be inspired by this project. Within the renovation of her terraced house, @ourwoodfield3storey, owner Vicky transformed her under-stair space with a selection of built-in cupboards and shelving units which they painted in a beautiful shade of frosted sage.

Valspar paint, in Northern Jupiter, from Lowes, is a similar color. 

7. Fit a hanging door rack to use vertical space

When space is tight you need to look up and down to find some of the sneakiest storage spots - in fact one of the biggest small space organization mistakes is to fail to make the most of your vertical space. 

"The easiest way to maximize storage in a small space is to use as much vertical space as possible," advises David Silva, an interior designer at home remodeling company HomRem LLC. "There’s usually a lot of wasted space around our home like under the bed, above kitchen cabinets, and even between our existing storage shelves. The key is to maximize these spaces without getting too cluttered."

One of David's favorite ways to do this is to fit a hanging door rack. 

"Adding door racks is almost like adding a new set of shelves to your home," says David. "They’re best used on the side of doors that aren’t often seen, like the inside of a closet or pantry. They could work in any other door, like for bathrooms and bedrooms, but you’ll risk having a cluttered-looking space if you use them in very visible areas. They usually come in a basket style, but I find the fabric version to be more versatile and more appealing to the eye."

The example here was crafted by the creator, producer, and host of the award-winning DIY home design show Engineer Your Space, Isabelle. She made her own over-the-door hooks using 5″ x 7″ aluminum step flashing sheets which she then secured to a wooden frame to house all her DIY essentials. 

Start with something like Amerimax Silver Aluminum Step Flashing from Lowes if you want to give this a go.

8. Fix floating shelves on walls and in corners

Fixing floating shelves to the wall is a job well within the capabilities of most DIYers out there - particularly if you can rope in someone to help hold them up while you fix them into place. 

"You can transform unused nooks, alcoves, or corners into functional storage with custom-built shelves or floating corner shelves," explains Meaghan Kessman.

"These types of shelves can be placed in any room for storing books, plants, decorative items, and more," agrees Evelina Juzėnaitė. "Such storage will not take up floor space either."

First, familiarize yourself with how to install a floating shelf. Some come with all the fixings and instructions needed, but if you are using something like reclaimed planks you will need to purchase fixings separately. If you are drilling into drywall, make sure you use anchor plugs.

QEEIG Bathroom Floating Shelves from Amazon offer a similar look to the ones here. 

9. Make the most of a view with a window seat

Window seats not only look beautiful in pretty much any room, but they also give you the perfect perch to sit and enjoy views over your surroundings - they are particularly well suited to anyone after bay window ideas. A window seat can also be constructed to incorporate lots of useful storage, whether that is through a simple hinged lid or by the addition of box shelves beneath. 

You have two options here. If you want to keep things nice and simple, you could invest in a low, horizontal storage bench the same width as your window - something like the DINZI LVJ Shoe Storage Bench with Cushion from Amazon - then dress it up with your own pillows and throws. 

However, for a more tailored approach, you could consider building a simple frame with vertical dividing shelves then top the whole thing off with a cozy cushion, as in this example from Hair Nails & Interiors.

10. Make space for tall bottles inside cabinet doors

If you have a small kitchen you want to ensure you are getting the very most out of every inch of space - and this is where DIY solutions can save the day.

Don't waste the opportunity to incorporate some storage onto bare walls - they can house all kinds of items that it can be hard to fit onto standard shelves. This is also one to consider if you are wondering. 

Here, Isabelle, of Engineer Your Space, who was struggling for countertop space, made some slimline custom shelving for her olive oil. She used 1″x3 ″ pieces of timber which she screwed together before securing to the wall with small metal brackets. Something like these L Bracket 90 Degree Angle Metal Brackets from Amazon would do the trick. 

She finished the whole thing off with a white stain. 

FAQs

What is the best way to make use of underbed space?

If you have space under the beds in any room of your home then make sure you look into how to organize under the bed to ensure you are using it wisely. There are so many options here. 

"If you have a bedframe, you have a lot of unused area under your bed!" says David Silva. "This is an easy spot for blankets, clothes, shoes, or other items that can fit in a thin, flat space. And of course, you don’t have to leave these things on the floor. You can use dedicated under-bed storage containers to keep them protected. Just make sure you measure the height of your bedframe first."

"I would recommend investing in a wooden frame box, with wheels," says Sarah Blevins, design specialist and product operations manager at Villa. "Soft side boxes tend to deform when overstuffed and can make it more difficult to pull out from under a bed or couch. Sturdy sides will help prevent you from overfilling, and the wheels will make accessing the bin easier."

These Rolling Bamboo Under Bed Storage Containers from Amazon would work well. 

How can you make more space within cabinets?

There is often no need to build new shelves, cabinets and rails to get more out of your kitchen storage ideas - you might just find you need to rethink your existing units a little.

"Shelf risers act as storage within your storage," explains David Silva. "Even if you fill every shelf of every cabinet, bookshelf and pantry in your home, you’ll still have some empty space above some of your shorter items. The easiest way to fix this is to add a shelf riser, which basically lets you add an extra shelf to your existing storage.

"They come in a variety of styles to fit your needs, and I always recommend the adjustable versions since they can adapt to your needs."

"A lazy Susan in your kitchen cabinets can make every item easily accessible. This rotating shelf design optimizes cabinet space, ensuring that every ingredient and kitchen tool is easy to access," suggests Ornella Guerrero Bianco. 

"To maximize your home’s storage potential, target the empty wall space in your closets and pantries," she continues. "Adding floating shelves or standing shelving units can increase your storage capacity, giving you more room for clothes, boxes and pantry items."

Take a look at Amazon Basics Stackable Metal Kitchen Storage Shelves to increase your kitchen cabinet capacity. 

If you have been left feeling inspired to get creative with your storage, take a look at these handy storage jar ideas - they are a brilliant way to pack in more space for all your essentials without spending money on expensive new solutions. 

A fluted panel can make all the difference between a tired, lackluster kitchen and a shiny new-looking one, even with a tight budget. Best of all, you can do it in over the weekend.

As anyone with a tired kitchen knows, renovations can be pricey and disruptive, so affordable DIY alternatives are always a win. My fluted panel DIY tutorial makes for an achievable DIY project with stunning results.

As a DIY blogger and interior stylist, I spend a great deal of time sourcing affordable materials that can be used to transform interior spaces and a really struck gold when I discovered fluted particle board sheets can be used as wall panels, including for nifty DIY kitchen ideas.

Installing a fluted panel in your kitchen

Popping one of these specially carved particleboard under your kitchen countertops is a home DIY project DIY novices can tackle successfully, with very little in the way of tool or materials. The key aspects include sourcing a large fluted panel and getting your hands on some reliable glue, such as Liquid-Nails, available on Amazon, because it is very effective and low-solvent.

Let's take a look at how I transformed my kitchen peninsula, although you could easily adapt this project to suit a kitchen island if you have one).  

You will need:

• Fluted panel (particle board or similar): Amazon sells slat panels, which can be installed side by side if you can't find a giant sheet of fluted board to cut to size.
• Caulking gun: I like the Bates Caulking Gun from Amazon because it's cost-effective and looks very similar to mine in the UK. When choosing yours, don't sweat it. Caulking guns don't need to be over complicated or expensive.
• Grab adhesive and caulk
• Saw: a handsaw like the QYQRQF 14 inch handsaw is light, affordable and Amazon's Choice, which means shoppers rate it, and hardly return it, plus it's usually available for quick delivery.
• Sanding sponges: are perfect for this DIY because they fit snugly to the fluted profile when you apply a little pressure and can be picked up cheaply.
• Primer
• Paint and paintbrush

All prices included in this article were correct at time of publication.

1. Plan and prepare

Measure your space and determine the best size fluted panel to order. By ordering the largest size my supplier stocked, I could cover the side of my worktops with a single fluted panel. This meant no joins would be required — perfect for a seamless look. 

The fluted panels came with the fluting in vertical or horizontal format. I opted for vertical to balance the length of the worktops but you choose the one that is aesthetically pleasing to your eye. Horizontal fluting can make a space look wider than it is and would work particularly nicely in small kitchens.

When your fluted panel arrives, unwrap it and stand it in position to check it fits the area you'll be gluing it to, and check fluting is in the correct direction. 

If you have any trouble sourcing fluted panels or they are not in your budget, you could easily make your own by purchasing a large sheet of particle board and cutting the grooves using a Rockler Router Fluting Jig, available from Amazon. 

This method would give you the ultimate freedom in selecting the width and depth of the fluted texture and allow you to create unlimited fluted panels in the future. It's pretty handy because it turned out, this fluted home decor is an addictive business! 

Step 2: Cut the fluted panel

Template the cut line by marking the exact position of the countertop along the back of the fluted panel. It’s important to stand the fluted panel the right way, as the fluting is only on one side. Templating in this way ensures you account for any unevenness or variations in the floor level over a long distance that wouldn't be easily picked up when measuring at intervals. 

Once you’ve marked the template of the countertops, remove the panel and lie it flat, ideally outside on a dry surface. I raised the fluted panel off the floor to make cutting easier and clamped it in position to prevent movement during the process.

I then used my power saw to cut along the line I had marked. As the panel was over 6.5 feet long, it would have taken a longer time by hand. 

If you're looking for a jigsaw, Black and Decker and Bosch are good brands and can be picked up at Target, such as this Bosch JS260 corded jigsaw. Be sure to wear protective eye-wear and a mask if using an electric saw to avoid injury or inhalation of the finer dust it'll release into the air.

Step 3. Sand the fluted surface

The fluted side of the panel can be quite rough from where it has been cut so I like to use a soft sanding sponge to remove any surface fibers and get a smooth finish. 

Sanding sponges are ideal because they adapt to the surface of the fluting so none is missed as it would be with a rigid sander. The Pro Grade Precision Sanding Sponge from The Home Depot is a great choice, as it's flexible and good for sanding to a fine, smooth finish.

Step 4: Prepare the surface for the fluted panel

Apply grab adhesive, such as Liquid Nails for interior use, available on Amazon, to the surface you are attaching the fluted panel to. 

Cut the end of the nozzle close to the cartridge to create a large exit hole as this makes applying the glue less labor-intensive. Don’t do this for projects where you require a small, neat accurate bead of product, but it works fine in this scenario.

I used a caulk gun and large cartridges of grab adhesive as they are more cost-effective for larger or repeated DIY projects. 

Step 5: Install the fluted panel

Stand the fluted panel back in position and apply firm pressure to attach it to the surface. Move the panel from one side to the other to remove any air behind the panel and spread the grab adhesive. 

I then used a hand saw to cut off any excess particle board ensuring that the fluted panel and the top of the countertop are completely flush. 

Step 6: Caulk the joins

The next step in my makeover was to create a seamless join with the countertops. As I wanted to create a waterfall kitchen island look, I knew the join would be very much on display, so it needed to be perfect. 

I ensured this by applying a bead of decorator’s caulk where the panel met the countertop and smoothing it over. You don't have to worry about smoothing too much as you'll sand the join later, but I recommend using a palette knife or skimming spreader for ease if you have one.

Alternatively, a firm piece of cardboard or plastic (perhaps from the fluted sheet's packaging to reduce wastage) can be used to smooth the caulk by running it along the join, scooping up any excess caulk and creating a level surface as it goes.

Allow the glue behind the panel and the caulk along joins to dry completely. It's best to check the product for manufacturer's guidelines, but 12 hours is usually a good drying estimate under normal DIY conditions. 

Once dry, I sanded the caulk for a seamless finish and went a step further. I applied a layer of microcement over the microcement countertops to completely cover the join. 

If you have overhanging countertops, as is the norm, you won't need to worry about the join in quite the same way, as you can butt the panel tightly up and under the lip of the countertops. 

I still recommend applying a bead of caulk for a neat finish if it will be visible from any angle, so be sure to buy one that you can paint over (silicone caulk repels paint making it very tricky to paint over) or that dries in the desired colour, such as the Red Devil paintable white decorator's caulk from Amazon.

Step 7: Prime the fluted panel

Priming particle board or plywood is essential because they are very absorbent materials and will soak up a lot of paint otherwise. Priming also serves to create a great base for the paint to sit on and will result in a more professional finish. 

Apply at least two coats of primer with a brush and allow to dry. Zinsser primer, available on Amazon and most hardware stores, is a good buy as can also be used for painting IKEA furniture to, which I did when I completed my IKEA BILLY bookcase hack.

Step 8: Paint the fluted panel

The final step is to paint the newly-attached fluted panel with an appropriate paint. Rustoleum ultra matte interior chalked paint available at Walmart is similar to the matte kitchen wall paint I used here in the UK. Kitchen paint is scrubbable so it makes a good choice for this busy and messy part of the home.

If you have any leftover kitchen cabinet paint, that's also great for extra durability. 

Apply two coats of your chosen paint and allow it to dry fully before touching the fluted panel. I found a brush easier than a roller for applying the paint to the fluted surface, but a paint pad such as the Shur-line tear-resistant deck foam pad from Walmart might save you time as it has a large surface area that can be loaded up with paint to saturate the undulations of the fluting and save you effort on brushstrokes.  

And there you have it, a simple yet effective kitchen DIY using a fluted panel to transform the side of your countertops. Fluting adds texture and interest and creates a focal point in the room. 

The beauty of this kitchen DIY is that applying fluted panels means you can cover large areas in a short space of time, making it much quicker than tiling a wall in your home.  

This DIY coffee table started off as an experiment to see how accessible I could make the process. As a DIY blogger, I know woodwork puts people off for being too labour-intensive, and because it can require tools they don't always have. 

My aim as an interior stylist is to make home styling easy to do with budget-friendly and creative DIY projects. I put my thinking cap on for a DIY coffee table surrounded by Amazon packaging, and had a lightbulb moment. 

I made a DIY simple coffee table with cardboard and the result is fabulous. As with most DIY project ideas, you can adapt this creative coffee table to suit your space and interior style. The size, shape, and colours can be customized, ensuring the final article is functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. Plus, the recycled materials makes it super sustainable and good for the planet. 

Tutorial: DIY coffee table that packs punch

Small living room DIY project ideas can still pack a design punch so I focused on ways to make a style statement with this DIY simple coffee table. 

Whilst cardboard isn’t the obvious material for a DIY coffee table as it lacks strength in single sheets, when several layers thick, it's brilliantly study, which is why I planned multilayered structure for my DIY table.

As it turns out, strong correlated cardboard is a fantastic building material because it’s easy to work with, readily available and surprisingly robust when layered up with grab adhesive in between each layer.

No self-respecting interior stylist would be happy to leave the finish as chopped-up cardboard, so out came the ready-mixed plaster (another of my favourite DIY materials), which is easy to apply and creates a fantastic concrete-style finish. The results were better than expected, and a brutalist-inspired chunky plaster DIY coffee table was born, with no timber (and very few tools) required. 

To make your own, you will need:

• Cardboard: I repurposed Amazon packaging for a more sustainable approach. Be sure to source corrugated cardboard for added strength.
• Scissors or utility knife: I recommend using one with retractable and replaceable blades such as the WORKPRO Premium Utility Knife, from Amazon.
• Low-odor construction adhesive: I recommend Gorilla Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive, available on Amazon.
• Patching plaster: ready-mixed patching will save you time. Choose a resealable tub such as the DryDex interior spacklingfrom Amazon for reuse across multiple projects.
• Skimming spreader or a taping knife such as the Red Devil 4 Flex Taping Knife from Walmart.
• Glue: PVA glue or Elmers glue, available from Amazon for the finish.
• Sealant spray: Mod Podge - 1469 Clear Acrylic Sealer from Amazon is a good one.
• Ruler or metal set square, and pen.
• Sandpaper and parcel tape are optional

Step 1: Gather your supplies

The great thing about this DIY coffee table project, is it requires so few tools and materials. The key items are strong cardboard sheets, which can easily be repurposed from leftover packaging. If you have a large item delivered, you'll be all set immediately, but you can save smaller boxes and sheets over time if not. 

Alternatively, ask your neighbors for their unwanted boxes, or buy packing boxes if you're keen to get started and want to save time on your DIY projects. 

A simple pen and ruler will be fine for marking the faces to cut out from the cardboard, and a utility knife is perfect for making quick, accurate cuts. I like using utility knives with replacement blades that are easily stored in the housing, such as the Workpro Premium Utility Knife from Amazon, but you could easily make do with scissors if that's all you have. 

I used ready-mixed interior smoother, also known as patching plaster because it's so much quicker and simpler than mixing it from scratch. Most DIY and hardware stores sell ready-mixed plaster, or you can order online. I recommend diluting the product if you are using it to skim-coat a wall, but that's not necessary for this project, as the extra thickness adds to the texture. 

Step 2: Measure and mark

Decide on the size and shape of your DIY coffee table idea as this will determine the net you need to create. I plumped for a triangular prism and as this was one of the prototypes, and I didn’t want it to be too large. 

Measure and mark the cardboard with the faces you need to create your 3D shape and don’t forget to make multiple of each as you’ll be layering them up for strength. I opted for three of four layers of very thick corrugated cardboard. If you’re creating a larger model, you might want to add some extra layers for structural support.

We have further details in the steps of this sort of project needed if you'd like more general guidance for how to make a DIY coffee table.

Step 3: Cut-out the faces

Cut out the cardboard faces using your metal set square (or ruler) and a utility knife. You could use scissors if that's all you have, but a utility knife is quicker. Protect the surface you are cutting on to prevent damage from the blade. 

Once cut out, lay out the faces in position on the floor to check they are all the right size and none are missing. The great thing about this easy DIY project for beginners coffee table project is that the faces don't have to be perfect, as you can fill in any gaps with adhesive later on. 

Step 4: Create the base

Once you’re happy you have all the faces and layers that you need and they are all the right size, you can spread them out and apply grab adhesive. 

I always opt for a solvent-free, low-odor adhesive that is suitable for interior use, such as the Loctite Power Grab Express Interior Construction Adhesive, available at Walmart. After all, you don't want any fumes putting you off your stride!  

Once the adhesive is applied, sandwich the cardboard shapes together to create thicker sides. Apply gentle pressure over the surface of the top layer of cardboard to spread the adhesive between the layers. 

If using thinner cardboard, place a book or similar on the sheets to help them adhere, but I found the thick cardboard kept its shape nicely while the glue was drying. 

Leave the layers to dry. I created some little supports by cutting rectangles of cardboard and folding them in half, attaching each side to a different face. You could add tabs to your faces if you prefer. 

Once the adhesive is dry, build the DIY coffee table, connecting the sides with the tabs you created. Don’t worry if there are gaps in the joins where the faces meet. 

Fill the gaps grab adhesive and smooth with a palette or taping knife to create the edge. Choosing a taping knife with some flexibility will make your life easier. The AXUS flexible caulking blade from Amazon would do nicely and is rated 4.5/5 stars from hundreds of happy shoppers.

You can even use parcel tape on the edges if you like. I tried this out and it worked fine. I focused on keeping this project simple so anyone can do it.

The patching plaster is brilliant at smoothing over any imperfections at the end, but I wanted the final piece to feel rustic and stone-like, so the more textured and imperfect, the better, as I felt this added to the effect. 

Step 5. Seal the base

Once the cardboard base of your up-cycled cardboard DIY coffee table has been constructed, apply a layer of diluted PVA, aka Elmer's glue, as a primer. Elmer's glue is readily available at Walmart and is safe and solvent-free. It's also easy to clean up with soap and water, making it a great choice for DIY projects in your home. This seals the cardboard and forms a base for the plaster to adhere to.

Once the glue has dried, it’s time to apply your ready-mixed plaster. I used my trusty spreading tool, which I use on all my microcement projects, but you could use a cheap trowel (such as the Anvil stainless steel finishing trowel from The Home Depot, or their pointer trowel for more accuracy) or improvise with a piece of plastic or similar if you are keeping the costs as low as possible.

Step 6: Apply the plaster

Apply only two or three thin layers of plaster. You don’t want them to be too thick, or they might shrink and crack. Spread the plaster evenly over the DIY coffee table one face at a time. Don’t try to create the vertices in one go, as the plaster will be too soft. 

The best approach I found is to spread it over one side of a join and allow it to set, as this forms a firm base for you to spread the adjoining edge up to.

Allow it to dry, then take your sander or sandpaper and apply medium pressure (as detailed in our guide to sanding) to shape the neat join you want for a precision finish. I wanted a more natural and rustic look, so I chose not to sand the edges too neatly and the results were a more weathered stone-block effect. 

If you decide to sand the dried plaster, be sure to take the coffee table outside if you can, or use a mask and sander with a dust extractor.  

Step 7: Finishing touches

To ensure your beautiful new stone-effect DIY coffee table can withstand the wear and tear of home life, it's a good idea to give the finished article a spray with a sealant. Sealing the plaster surface will make cleaning a doddle and prevent spillages and stains from ruining the high-end look of your DIY furniture. 

Once sealed, it's time to get styling. Shop your home to save money styling your coffee table; remember, less is more, as you don't want the piece to look cluttered. Stacking a curated collection of books is always a winner for coffee table styling or adding a vase of flowers from the garden for color, texture and your favorite home fragrance.

So there you have it! A beautiful, contemporary DIY coffee table that you can customize in so many ways. If you want to paint it, do so before you seal it.

Now you're in the DIY mood, give our small entryway DIY ideas a whirl to welcome your guests in with some personalized and unique touches.

Knowing how to make a rain chain is a great way to add style, calm and an eco-friendly touch to your garden.

Whether you want to harness rainwater from your down-spout in this beautiful way, or add a stylish quirk to your guttering, our home, roofing and conservation experts explain the six steps to create and install your very own, customized rain chain.

If you know what a rain chain is and you're keen to create your own, look no further. Our pros will guide you from start to finish, and you'll be delighting in the relaxing sound of your tinkling rain chain in no time. 

Six steps to making a rain chain at home

When it comes to garden ideas worth copying, rain chains are a beautiful and functional addition to any home, guiding rainwater from your roof to the ground in a visually pleasing way. 

Making your own rain chain is a rewarding DIY project that can be customized to suit your style. Our experts' step-by-step instructions will guide you from start to finish.

Where our pros have suggested products, we've used our consumer, shopping, homes, and yard industry expertise to source suitable matching picks to help you shop the guide with high-quality products, from trusted retailers.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

1. Gather your rain chain materials

Making a rain chain yourself begins with gathering the necessary materials.

Chris Stevenson, vice president of 730 South Exteriors, says, "Rain chains are a centuries-old example of Japanese ingenuity and were meant to add ambiance and look decorative at the same time.

"With so many options available to you, sketch out your rain chain! Decide how you want to space any cups or decorative items, and if you'll use different sizes. This will help you determine how much chain to use between each cup."

First and foremost, a sturdy chain that can support the weight of both the water and any attachments is essential. 

Chris adds, "Don't skimp on the chain itself. It needs to be long enough, plus strong enough to handle heavy rain and wind. Look for galvanized steel chain — it resists rust and comes in different link sizes."

Bryan Clayton, co-founder of GreenPal, says, "I always opt for materials like stainless steel or brass — these metals resist rust and last a heck of a lot longer than cheaper alternatives.

"The aesthetics of these quality materials are superior, and they’ll give your home’s exterior a touch of elegance that holds up over time."

Other popular materials include aluminum (one of the best materials for outdoor items) and copper.

Jordan Woolf, owner of Huntsville Roofing Solutions prefers two other popular materials. He says, "Copper and aluminum are great choices for their durability and resistance to rust. Copper will develop a natural patina over time, adding a unique look.

"Watch out though — mixing metals like copper and steel can cause galvanic corrosion. Stick to one type of metal to ensure longevity."

You'll also need small metal cups, buckets, or decorative pots to catch and guide the water, along with a measuring tape, pliers, wire cutters, and a drill. This GDMINLO Measuring Tape from Amazon is flexible and comes with more than 50,000 five-star reviews. 

To secure the rain chain to the gutter and the ground, you’ll need hooks and anchors. These Deflect-o S Hooks from Target are made of galvanized metal wire and come in a pack of 50.

Decorative elements like beads, charms, or small figurines can add a personal touch.

Chris adds, "This is where you get creative! Cups, mugs, teapots, even recycled plastic bottles can work. Terracotta pots are a classic choice, and come in various sizes, allowing you to play with the water flow. You'll need six to eight, depending on the size." 

These Orange Terracotta Pots from Lowe's come in multiple widths, ranging from four inches to 18.

2. Measure and cut the chain

Measure the distance from your gutter to the ground to determine the length of the chain you'll need, adding a few extra inches for adjustments. Using wire cutters or pliers, cut the chain to the desired length. 

If creating tiers with containers, cut the chain into appropriate lengths for each section. Wear protective glasses and gloves to protect your hands. These Blue Ridge Multi-Purpose Gloves from Target offer great protection and comfort, while these Dewalt Protector Glasses from Amazon are lightweight, durable and well-reviewed.

Chris says, "You'll need a length of sturdy chain that can handle the weight of water. For a standard rain chain, a chain with links around 3/16" thick (just less than 5mm) is a good choice. 

"If unsure, my advice would be to get a length at least 8-10 feet long — you can always cut it shorter later."

3. Assemble the rain chain

With your materials at the ready and cut to size, it's time to get creating. 

Chris says, "Put on your safety glasses and gloves. Flip the cups upside down and drill a hole in the center of the base, big enough for the chain link to pass through easily.

"Next, lay out your chain on a flat surface. Thread one end of the chain through the hole in your bottom cup. Now comes the S-hook magic: attach an S-hook to another chain link and hook it onto the bottom cup's hole, on the opposite side from where the main chain went through. This creates a little loop for the next cup to hang from.

"Take your next cup, thread the main chain through its base hole, and then connect it to the S-hook hanging from the previous cup. Repeat this process for all your cups, following your design plan."

Ensure all containers and decorations are securely attached to handle the weight of the rain chain, and the water that will move through it.

Chirs adds, "Make sure each cup has a drainage hole at the bottom to prevent water build-up and freezing in cold weather. Be mindful of weight distribution also. Balance heavier cups lower in the chain."

4. Install the rain chain

Next, it's time to connect your newly-made rain chain to the gutter.

Jordan says, "Use a stable ladder to reach your gutter (Little Giant Ladders from Lowe's reach up to 18 feet and come with five-star reviews). If there's already a downspout, remove it. Drill a hole in the gutter that's slightly larger than the diameter of your rain chain attachment.

"Insert the gutter attachment piece through the hole and secure it tightly to ensure stability (the Monarch Rain Chains Gutter Installation Clip from Lowe's is made of pure copper).

"Hook the top link or cup of the rain chain onto the gutter attachment piece. Make sure the rain chain hangs straight and reaches the ground or a drainage basin."

Securing the bottom end of your rain chain is an important step to ensure it can withstand strong winds and doesn't blow around and break. It's important too if you're looking to harvest the rainwater.

Nisha Maxwell, permaculture landscape designer and seed farmer says, "Since the EPA estimates that 30% of Americans’ water use happens outdoors, saving rainwater could significantly reduce the household water bill."

Nisha suggests taking account of your region's typical annual rainfall when considering water collection methods. She adds, "Choose a garden bed for low rainfall, a water cistern for heavy rainfall, or a rain garden for intermittent heavy rain like southwestern monsoons."

You can secure the bottom end of the rain chain in a drainage basin, decorative pot, or into the ground with a stake. 

5. Decorate your rain chain

When it comes to stylish rain chain ideas, the world is your oyster! You can enhance the visual appeal of your rain chain by adding all kinds of personal touches. 

Paint or decorate the containers with weather-resistant paint, add LED lights for night illumination, or incorporate natural elements like stones, shells, or crystals. Ensure any added elements are waterproof and securely attached.

Karina Toner, operations manager at Spekless Cleaning, says, "Enhancing the aesthetic appeal of your rain chain can turn it into a beautiful garden feature that complements your home's exterior. Choosing decorative elements and thoughtful placement can significantly impact the overall look.

"Opt for elements like glass beads, colorful stones, or themed cups that match your garden’s aesthetic. Integrate small hanging plants or succulents nearby to add a touch of whimsical greenery. For lighting, consider adding solar-powered lights or glow-in-the-dark paint around the cups for nighttime visibility and added charm."

6. Maintain your rain chain

Regular maintenance keeps your rain chain looking beautiful and functioning well. Clean it regularly to remove debris, leaves, or dirt. Inspect the chain and containers for rust or corrosion, replacing or repairing them as needed. 

Adrian Pedraza, owner of The California Home Buyer, advises cleaning the rain chain thoroughly when preparing your garden for winter and inspecting it to make sure it is clear of debris and capable of operating as intended. 

He adds, "You can shield metal chains from the harsh winter weather by coating them with a rust-resistant substance."

Try Rust-Oleum's Stop Rust Inhibitor Spray, available on Amazon on untreated metal. Its easy-spray application will make protecting your rain chain and other outdoor metal items a cinch, and protect them for six months. 

To prevent the rain chain from swinging in the wind, ensure it is securely tethered. Attach it to a ground stake, stone and S hook anchor, a sturdy garden sculpture using heavy-duty wire, nylon cord, or a small auxiliary chain. Ensure the tether is taut enough to minimize movement but flexible enough to accommodate the chain's movement during heavy rain. 

In areas that experience harsh winters, another option is to remove the rain chain for the season.

Ryan Farley, CEO of LawnStarter says, "I recommend removing your rain chain in the winter, unless you live in an area with pretty mild winters. If ice builds up on your rain chain, it could actually cause damage to your gutter due to weight dragging on the structure."

Meet our experts

Enjoy the soothing sight and sound of rain cascading down your handmade, unique rain chain, knowing you created it with your own hands.

Next, check out these 30 cheap garden ideas and the garden accessory that will save your knees.

Getting to grips with how to wallpaper a small bathroom will help avoid all kinds of frustrating hold-ups and ensure your petit space looks perfectly papered in no time at all. 

In this guide, our experts reveal the materials and tools you need for the job, run down the process in eight steps, and answer commonly asked questions including whether you should paste the wall, or the wallpaper and more.

Any kind of DIY small bathroom idea requires careful thought in practical terms as it can be harder to carry out any kind of creative task when confined to a compact space. Fear not though, armed with our tips and advice, you can expect this to be a stress-free project with brilliant results. 

How to wallpaper a small bathroom for professional results

Bringing in a bathroom trend might present a few additional challenges, especially  when it comes to wallpapering compact areas, but there is no reason to shy away from this project.

Our trusted experts will take you through the simple steps needed to transform your tiny bathroom into one of the most stylish spaces in your home. 

All prices were correct at time of publication.

Paste-the-wall vs. paste-the-paper: Which is better for a small bathroom?

There are two main types of wallpaper that homeowners looking at how to wallpaper a wall tend to consider: ‘paste-the-wall’ and ‘paste-the-paper’. As the names suggest, one involves applying your wallpaper adhesive directly to the wall, while the other requires you to apply paste to the back of the wallpaper. 

The former tends to be easier for DIYers to handle and certainly if you are working in a small space, you are less likely to run into any sticky situations with this option. 

Whether you end up pasting the wall or the paper, don't be afraid of picking a wallpaper you truly love for your DIY project. 

"Small bathrooms are a great place to add personally, specifically through the use of wallpaper," says interior designer Heather Vercellino of Verce Design. "Due to the small space, you can really go bold with color, texture, and prints."

Your shopping list for wallpapering a small bathroom

Tools:

• Sandpaper
• TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) or similar cleaning product such as the concentrated SAVOGRAN Liquid TSP Substitute Cleaner from The Home Depot)
• Wallpaper scissors (try the Kretzer Finny ZipZap long sheers for wallpaper from Amazon which are durable, ergonomic and long-lasting)
• Metal ruler
• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Sponge and cloth
• Bucket (we love this collapsible bucket from Amazon which is perfect for stowing away neatly when done and taking minimal space).
• Step ladder
• Drop cloth
• Pasting table (if using paste-the-paper wallpaper)
• Pasting brush (the Amazon Basics Wallpaper Kit contains everything you need, including smoother brush, a snap-off knife, a seam roller, and a plumb bob kit for getting a perfect vertical line)
• Soft-grip handle: the brush’s soft-grip handle helps ensure a secure, comfortable hold
• Paint roller
• Retractable knife such as the WORKPRO Premium Utility Knife from Amazon
• Spirit level or laser level (the RYOBI Multi-Surface Laser Level from The Home Depot is a well-rated budget option)

Materials:

• Wallpaper of choice
• Filler
• Wallpaper primer (such as the Zinsser Shield water based primer at The Home Depot)
• Wallpaper adhesive (unless using peel-and-stick wallpaper). Roman PRO-838 1 Heavy Duty Wallpaper Adhesive from Amazon is clear and contains biocides to help resist the growth of mold and mildew, which is double-handy in humid bathrooms
• Clear varnish (optional)

Step 1: Prep the walls

You want to start with a completely clean slate — not only to make the job easier for you but also to ensure the wallpaper sticks firmly to the wall — with no visible imperfections. 

Remove all hooks, shelves, or any other hardware. Next, scrape away any flaking paint and fill any dents or holes. Finally, brush down the whole surface. The Bates Paint Scraper Painters Tool from Amazon is a good tool for the job. If you have existing paper in place, read up on how to remove wallpaper and get rid of all traces of it before you begin.

Step 2: Apply a primer

Although this step is sometimes skipped, it is a really good idea to use a wallpaper primer before you get papering. Some types of walls (such as unpainted drywall or plaster) are very porous, meaning they will soak up the paste quicker than you can get the paper on the wall. 

The majority of wallpaper primers are white meaning they can show through the seams and become rather obvious with deeper colored papers, which you might use if you are aiming for small dark bathroom ideas. 

Thankfully, there are primers available in other colors so choose one to match your paper — unless you are certain you can do a 100% perfect job of getting your seams spot on. Some primers will dry in as little as an hour, while others need a day to dry out fully.

ROMAN Products Wallpaper Primer from Amazon only needs three hours before hanging the paper. 

Step 3: Measure and cut your wallpaper

Just as when exploring how to tile a small bathroom floor, the task of wallpapering a small bathroom is, in some respects, easier than working with a large space due to the fact that you will have fewer walls to cover. That said, there will also be a few additional challenges, such as the fact that you might find yourself needing to make more cuts.

Start by measuring the drop of your first wall and add on a couple of inches on the top and bottom where you will trim the paper after it has been hung. 

Cut the paper using wallpaper scissors, such as the Qualconnect 11 inch Wallpaper, Fabric Scissors from Amazon. As you are working in a small space it will probably be easier to measure and cut in a different room to avoid standing on your paper.

Step 4: Mark your starting point

Before you can start putting your paper up, you need to mark a perfectly straight vertical line on the wall where you will hang your first wallpaper strip. The line needs to sit the width of your wallpaper strips away from your starting point — so if your paper is fairly standard at 500mm wide, the line should be made 500mm away. 

Use a laser line or spirit level to make sure it is totally straight. Ideally you want to start hanging in one corner, on a wall with no doors or windows, although this won’t always be possible in a small room. 

That said, if your wallpaper ideas involve using a paper with a bold pattern, start in the center of the wall and work outwards.

Step 5: Hang your wallpaper

This next step will very much depend on the type of wallpaper you are using — paste-the-wall or paste-the-paper.

With paste-the-wall paper, following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the adhesive directly to the section of wall you are about to cover using a roller. Then offer up your strip of wallpaper, lining it up with the pencil line you marked on the wall, adjusting while the paste is still gummy enough to allow movement.

If you are using paste-the-paper wallpaper you should apply the adhesive directly to the paper, working from the center outwards, using a pasting brush — this paste brush from Amazon is easy to use. 

You will then need to fold the paper in on itself concertina style so that the pasted sides are resting on one another, and allow the paste to soak into the paper a little. You can then offer it up to the wall in the same way as for paste-the-wall paper.

In both cases, once you are happy with the positioning of the paper, use a wallpaper brush, a clean roller, or simply the flat of your hand to smooth out the paper and remove any air bubbles.

Step 6: Work around the corners

At some stage you'll probably meet a corner, unless you are only working on feature wall design ideas and are papering just one wall. You want to avoid two strips joining in a corner as it looks messy. 

Measure from the edge of the last strip of paper up to the corner and add 30mm. Cut your wallpaper to this width and then hang it and brush the paper into the corner. You can then line your next strip up where the overhang ends and continue.  

Step 7: Trim the top and bottom of the paper

Push into the crease between the wall and the ceiling and the wall (or base board) using the back of some scissors or a steel ruler such as the Mr. Pen Steel Rulers from Amazon and use a sharp knife to cut off the excess.

Step 8: Finish up

Continue in the same way until you are finished. You will need to make cuts around doorways, windows and sockets and, if they can’t be removed, towel warmers or radiators. Check out some tips for wallpapering around awkward objects if you get stuck.

What to shop

FAQs

What type of wallpaper is best for a bathroom?

You need to be really careful when it comes to getting your bathroom wallpaper ideas spot on that the products you choose are up to the job of handling the high moisture levels that will come their way, especially in a small bathroom.

"Look for wallpapers that are specifically designed for high-moisture environments, like vinyl or sealed paper," advises Giovanni Patania architect director at WindsorPatania Group. "These types are more resistant to peeling, fading and mildew, so they'll hold up better over time. You might also want to consider using a special adhesive or primer that's formulated for bathrooms, just to give your wallpaper some extra staying power."

Vinyl wallpaper is the best choice for humid environments as it is durable and resistant to moisture, explains Julianne Schaefer, interior designer and founder/principal at Collected Studio. She says, "For powder rooms (bathrooms without showers or bathtubs), standard paper can work well. These spaces are perfect for more delicate materials like hand-painted or hand-sewn wallpapers.” 

"The only thing you must consider with this type of wallpaper is that this creates a non-breathable surface that acts as a vapor barrier," warns Corinne Segura, owner and consultant at My Chemical-free House. "This means that if you use AC inside your home and you have hot humid weather outside, this can create a dew point behind the wallpaper and cause mold to form behind it."

The vinyl wallcoverings from Burke Decor come in a huge range of colors and patterns.. She says "For powder rooms (bathrooms without showers or bathtubs), standard paper can work well. These spaces are perfect for more delicate materials like hand-painted or hand-sewn wallpapers.” 

How do you prevent bathroom wallpaper from peeling?

There are a few ways to boost the longevity of your small bathroom wallpaper ideas.

"Keeping the bathroom’s ventilation in mind is really important. Having good air circulation is crucial when it comes to preventing moisture build-up, which can damage wallpaper over time," points out Courtney Cole, interior designer at Tile Cloud. "It might be worth considering installing a better exhaust fan and it's definitely a good idea to start giving your existing one a good and regular clean."

"It’s important in bathrooms to use a wallpaper paste designed for humid conditions, preferably one that is mold and mildew resistant," advises Courney Cole. "Being specially made to resist moisture it helps reduce the risk of peeling or mold development - making sure your wallpaper will look lovely and secure over time."

The Multi Purpose Wallpaper Adhesive Paste from World of Wallpaper is mold resistant and is suitable for most types of wallpaper. 

Should you seal bathroom wallpaper?

If you have chosen not to use a vinyl or sealed wallpaper, you could well benefit from giving your paper a coat of sealer. 

"There are two types of wallpaper that can be used in a bathroom, the first is paper-based and this should not be used 'as is' in a bathroom that has a shower or tub," says Corinne Sugura. "A way to make this type moisture-resistant is to coat the paper-based wallpaper with a clear varnish to protect it and use clear silicone caulk (such as the GE Silicone 1 Tub and Tile, Kitchen and Bath Clear Silicone Caulk from Lowes) at the edges."

What wallpaper makes a small bathroom look bigger?

As well as understanding the best ways to hang wallpaper in a small bathroom, it is also important to choose a color or print that will work well to make the most of the space from a visual perspective to ensure your bathroom ideas are everything you hoped for.

"In small spaces, the colors you pick can make a big impact on how you perceive the size of the room," explains Courtney Cole. "I usually recommend going for lighter colors like whites, grays, beige or light pastels to make the room feel bigger because they help reflect light around more. 

"If you prefer dark colors I'd suggest using them as accents or for trim in the room, because this will keep the eye moving around the room and won’t absorb light like completely decorating with dark wallpaper will.”

"I tend to prefer light colors such as pale blues, soft greens, light grays and whites, which can help to make a small bathroom feel larger and more open," agrees Alice Moszczynski, interior designer at Planner 5D. "Avoid dark colors, as they can make the space feel cramped. As for patterns, subtle designs like delicate florals, small geometric shapes, or textured patterns can add interest without overwhelming the space."

Not everyone agrees, however...

"Bold colors and patterns are excellent choices for smaller bathrooms," says Julianne Schaefer. "In compact spaces, don't be afraid to go big and make it your own jewel box. Hand-painted or hand-sewn wallpapers can add a unique and luxurious touch.”

"Larger scale bold floral wallpapers are a great choice for making a small bathroom feel larger and choosing a dark rich color will add extra depth to your space," agrees Rebecca Drury, co-founder of MissPrint. "It is a misconception that dark colors will make your room feel smaller. Bathrooms are often the smallest room in a home and a great space to have some fun with pattern and colour!"

Malmberg Peel & Stick wallpaper by Three Posts from Walmart features a strong pattern of botanicals and florals that would really pack a visual punch in a small space. 

Meet the experts

There are so many ways to finish off the walls of your small bathroom and while wallpaper is a great way to inject a little character and individuality into the space, you might also like to consider a few small bathroom wall paneling ideas alongside, your choice of paper or paint.

There are lots of reasons why homeowners look into how to paint countertops – but for most people, it’s because they are looking for a cost-effective and quick way to give their existing kitchen a really impactful refresh.

The great news is that all kinds of countertops can be painted – from timber and stone to laminate, meaning that no matter what kind of surface you are working with, this will be an option for you.

If you’re desperate to tie your kitchen countertops in with the rest of your kitchen color ideas, then you’ll be pleased to learn that painting your kitchen countertops is pretty easy to DIY. Ready to get started? Our step-by-step guide will take you through everything you need to get the job done from start to finish. 

How to paint countertops like a pro 

Sometimes all you need is a few small kitchen upgrades to smarten up your cooking space. In this simple step-by-step guide, our trusted experts will take you through all the steps needed to take your tired countertops to stylish surfaces you can be proud of. We’ve also included a list of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.

The equipment you’ll need to paint countertops

Before you pop the lid on that paint tin, arm yourself with the following:

• An all-purpose degreaser (Mrs Myers Clean Day Multi-Surface Cleaner Spray, available from Amazon, was one of the best eco-friendly cleaning products in our round-up)
• Lint cloth
• Sanding block or, to remove some of the elbow grease and depending on the state of your countertops, a power sander
• Painter’s tape
• Protective sheets or drop cloths (Bates Plastic Drop Cloth from Amazon offers good value for money)
• Standard roller, mini roller, and small paintbrush
• Primer and paint designed for your countertop material or a complete countertop refinishing kit (such as the Giani Granite Countertop Paint Kit from Amazon )
• Epoxy or glaze (not always necessary so check the manufacturer's instructions)
• Sealer or topcoat

Step 1: Clean countertops thoroughly

No matter what material your countertops are made from, they need to be sparkling clean before you move on to the next step. Using your all-purpose cleaning spray, make sure you remove all traces of dirt, food, grease, and dust. If you skip this step, the paint just won’t stick properly. 

Once you clean the countertops, dry the surfaces with a lint-free cloth. This is also a good time to repair any areas of damage to get the countertops in as good a condition as possible before painting.

Step 2: Sand your countertops

If you are working with timber countertops you'll definitely need to give them a light sand, but even sanding laminate, tile, and stone will help the primer and paint you are about to apply adhere better. In many cases, an inexpensive sanding block will do the job just fine and the Amazon Basics Rubber Sanding Block is a great budget option. If you want to cut back on labor a little and have a list of other DIY jobs on your to-do list, then you might want to look at investing in a power sander for larger areas. Once done, be sure to wipe or vacuum the surface down.

“For timber, you will need to sand the wood to give the paint a surface to stick to – but you need to make sure the dust is gone before you prime the wood” advises Drew Mansur co-founder and director at TileCloud. “This brings us to priming, which you will need to do to make sure the finish will be smooth and to ensure the paint sticks better.”

Step 3: Protect your kitchen cabinets, walls and floors

You don’t want to end up with splatters of paint ruining your beautiful kitchen flooring ideas or running down the doors of your cabinets, so it is well worth taking a little time to cover them over. 

Use painter's tape between the countertops and walls, as well as around your stove, sink and so on. Dust covers and plastic sheeting draped over the floors and cabinets will protect them while you work.

Step 4: Apply primer to the countertops

If you have purchased a complete countertop refinishing kit you might not need a separate primer, or it may have come with one included. However, many surface materials will benefit from a primer if you want a durable finish that will last. 

"One of the biggest mistakes to make on any surface is to not use a primer," warns Brandon Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration LLC. "People think of primer as an unnecessary step that simply costs more without providing any benefit. In reality, primer is one of the most critical steps to ensure that the paint job lasts for years to come."

Using a roller or brush, apply a thin coat of primer and, if you are painting a backsplash too, bring out your mini roller to use on those. The Mister Rui Mini Paint Roller Kit from Amazon would work well. Your small paintbrush will help you to prime awkward corners and around faucets etc. In order to avoid messy brush marks showing up under your paint finish, aim to overlap each stroke a little with the next.

"One of the biggest mistakes you see when painting anything is not giving the primer enough time to fully cure before you start painting," warns Drew Mansur. "I say you should wait three hours before you start painting, but it really depends on the primer you’ve used and the conditions you’re painting in."

Step 5: Apply your first coat of paint

Make sure you have thoroughly stirred your paint or resurfacing coat to get rid of any lumps. Using your rollers and brush and working in the same way as when you applied your primer, coat all areas of your countertop and backsplash. Let it fully dry, according to the instructions. 

Step 6: Apply a second coat of paint

In just the same way as you applied the first coat of paint, apply a second, being careful to keep a wet edge on each pass and dealing with any brush marks, just as you would be advised to do when looking at how to paint kitchen cabinets. 

If you are using a refinishing kit, it may come with decorative finishes such as sparkling flecks or imitation veins to replicate the look of stone, such as marble. In most cases, these are applied after this second coat although some need to be applied while the paint is still wet so check the instructions carefully. Allow to dry.

Step 7: Apply your epoxy or glaze if using

While this step won't always be needed, if your paint or kit requires an application of epoxy or glaze, now’s the time to do it. Most can be rolled or brushed on and then need to be left for 24 hours or so to cure. 

You may then need to sand (wet or dry according to instructions) the countertops until smooth. Before the final step, you will need to wipe the tops off by vacuuming and using a lint-free cloth such as the HOMEXCEL Microfiber Cleaning Cloth from Amazon. If they are wet, let them dry.

Step 8: Roll and brush on your topcoat or sealer

You’re almost done. A sealer or topcoat can now be rolled and brushed onto the countertops and will protect your newly painted surfaces meaning you can enjoy them for longer. Let dry and check if another coat is required. 

Step 9: Clean up

Once everything is completely dry, carefully remove the painter’s tape – a sharp utility knife is handy here as it will ensure you don’t just pull off your new paint finish at the same time as the tape.

Clean up your brushes (if you are unsure how to do this then look into how to clean paint brushes first), stand back, and admire your transformed kitchen.

Your shopping basket essentials

FAQs

What is the best paint for countertops?

This very much depends on the type of countertop you are painting. 

“To paint your timber countertops, you’ll need a paint that is durable and wood adhesive,” says Drew Mansur. “I would suggest going for acrylic paint followed by a polyurethane topcoat to give you durability and water resistance.

"For your stone and composite worktops, epoxy paint will be your best option," continues Drew. "This is because it is really durable and will also be resistant to your normal kitchen wear and tear.

"You can paint laminate worktops, but you’ll need a specialized countertop paint or a hard-wearing enamel paint," adds Drew. "This is because laminate is hard for normal paint to adhere to, and these special paints will adhere better and withstand more wear and tear."

"If you want to use an eco-friendly, all-natural paint, linseed oil paint is a good option for painting countertops," suggests Corinne Segura, owner and consultant at My Chemical-free House. "This paint is solvent-free and uses natural linseed oil as the binder. The benefit of this type of paint is that it sticks to any countertop material without a need for a primer. You can use it on wood, plastics (like melamine/laminate), stone, or any other type of countertop. It's also a very durable paint.

"The only downside is that because it contains manganese it’s not safe for direct food contact, so be sure to use cutting boards and serving boards for your food."

If you are working with a compact space, be sure to check out the best paint colors for small kitchens when choosing a shade for your countertops too. 

Should you use food-safe paint for countertops?

"When you’re painting kitchen countertops, make sure you look for paints and sealants that are food safe," advises Drew Mansur. "Usually the manufacturing specs will tell you if they are safe for cooking surfaces. It’s important to know though that you need to let the paint cure completely before using it for one of your cooking surfaces."

"The FDA has created a litmus test for this very conundrum and there are paints that have been specifically approved by the FDA for use in food-related applications," says Brandon Walker. "These are non-toxic formulations that are safe for human consumption should the paint end up in food inadvertently.

"Another factor to consider is the chance of the paint being heated to the point of denaturing," continues Brandon. "If you are planning to paint a surface that may experience extreme heat, then it is important to choose a paint that is formulated to resist degradation when heated.

"Washability is another important consideration when choosing paints that might come into contact with food," further advises Brandon. "If the paint isn’t washable, it might not be the right choice for some surfaces, and, similarly, if it is washable, but not considered safe for food contact, then another option will be best."

How long will painted countertops last?

While painting countertops is a great way give your kitchen a makeover on a budget, there are a few downsides to note. 

"It is important to know though that a painted surface might not survive as long as an original material or replacement might," points out Drew Mansur.

The key to making sure your painted countertops stand the test of time lies in good preparation, using the right paints for the job and following manufacturer instructions for drying and curing times.

You can also care for your countertops by using cutting boards and hot pads shields. Be sure to brush up on how to clean countertops too and avoid any harsh chemical-based cleaning products.

Painting kitchen countertops is a great way to refresh your kitchen on a budget and is definitely a job to add to your list of kitchen makeover ideas. 

Other tasks you might like to consider include painting your cabinets, changing up the wall colors or even hanging wallpaper. Simple things like hanging pictures and introducing houseplants will also make a huge difference. 

When it comes to how to tile a small bathroom floor, it is important to realize that in a more compact space, there will be certain challenges to tackle that homeowners working with larger rooms won’t face – but don’t worry, our guide has you covered. 

From the colors and patterns of tiles you select, to how you arrange them, there are lots of ways to ensure that your bathroom flooring will help make the most of the space you are working with, no matter how tiny it might be.

Small bathroom design might well take a little extra planning and consideration than when working with more generously proportioned spaces, but very often, the need to think creatively in terms of design solutions results in some of the most beautiful outcomes. 

How to tile a small bathroom floor without calling in the pros

Tiling a bathroom floor is a job undertaken by lots of keen DIYers – and if you want to keep costs down on your bathroom remodel the DIY route is definitely one you should consider. 

“You can definitely do your own tiling if you have the right tools and the motivation to get it done on your own, but it can be a tricky process,” says Drew Mansur, co-founder and head of growth at TileCloud.

With our step-by-step guide, even the most novice DIY tiler should have no problems tackling this task to turn their bathroom tile ideas into reality.

What you’ll need to tile a small bathroom floor

Before you begin, make sure you are properly equipped with everything you need to complete the job from start to finish.

Materials:

• Bathroom tile
• Tile adhesive, such as thinset
• Tile and grout sealant (Seal It Green Xtreme-Heavy Duty Pro Strength Grout Sealer from Amazon is a great non-toxic option)
• Tile grout
• Tile spacers
• Decoupling membrane (also known as uncoupling membrane)

Tools:

• Measuring tape
• Pencil
• Bucket for mixing adhesive and grout
• Notched trowel (such as Edward Tools Squared Notch Tile and Flooring Trowel from Amazon)
• Rubber tile float
• Laser level (or spirit level or chalk snap line)
• Tile nippers
• Tile cutter (manual, wet saw, or angle grinder, depending on the type of tile)
• Goggles, gloves, and dust mask
• Rubber mallet

1. Prepare the bathroom floor

Before you can begin laying your bathroom tile you need to get your floor in good condition. Much of the prep work needed will depend on the type of subfloor you have and its current state. If you skip this step you risk tiles lifting and cracking later on down the line. If you have existing tiles, don’t attempt to lay new tiles on top – instead, find out how to remove floor tiles first.

“Make sure that the surface is clean and level, and that it doesn’t have any debris before starting,” says Drew Mansur. “If you don’t do this, there might be issues with how the tiles lay or how long they last.”

Floors are usually either timber or concrete. In the case of concrete floors, you should first sweep the floor free of dust and debris before cleaning it with warm water. When dry, fill any cracks with a cement patching compound and trowel. For larger cracks use a suitable leveling compound. A floor leveling compound will sort out any small uneven areas but be sure to let it dry before tiling and don’t forget to apply a concrete sealer.

If you have timber floors, begin by checking for areas of water damage and replace these sections with new marine-grade plywood. In a small bathroom, water damage might have spread out to all areas of the floor.

If you are tiling onto existing timber floorboards, you will need to fit boards made of exterior-grade plywood on top. When screwing or nailing this down, be aware that you are working over pipes and wires so use a detector such as the FNIRSI Premium Wall Scanner available from Amazon to avoid damaging them.

2. Fix a decoupling membrane over your subfloor

Although some people do skip this stage, most people see it as an extra step not to be missed and you should definitely use a decoupling membrane if you are tiling over underfloor heating.

Decoupling membranes are thin sheets that can easily be cut to fit and sit between the subfloor and the tiles to prevent movement affecting the tiles, causing them to crack or lift. Some also protect the subfloor from moisture, such as Waterproof Membrane Uncoupling Membrane for Under Tile from Amazon.

Although it is often thought that decoupling membrane is only necessary for large bathroom floors, it is also well worth installing in small bathrooms. Simply measure your bathroom floor then cut the membrane to fit. It can then be fixed to the subfloor using adhesive mortar – such as thin-set – that has been troweled on, pressing it down into the mortar and scraping off excess to leave a smooth surface before allowing it to set. Lie separate sheets parallel to one another without any overlapping.

Plan and design your tile layout

Before starting the job of tiling the floor, you need to work out the layout for the tiles – something that is more important than ever when it comes to small bathroom flooring ideas if you want to avoid too many cuts and a design that does the space justice. 

“Make sure that you lay out the tiles and plan the layout well before you start the job, otherwise you might end up with gaps near the walls that are permanent,” warns Drew Mansur. 

“Geometric and diagonal layouts can make a floor look wider, so these are good patterns to consider in a small space. The format is important too, so try to look for tiles that are large-format to have fewer grout lines, which will also make the floor space look larger.”

Using a measuring tape, chalk snap line, or the vertical line of a laser level, find the center point of your room. The IRWIN Tools STRAIT-LINE Chalk Line from Amazon offers good value for money.

4. Dry-fit your tile

Before committing to any tile patterns you should dry-fit your tile to find the best final layout. Start from the center and work outwards toward the corners of the room to avoid any uneven cuts – and don’t forget to place spacers between each tile for accuracy. Play around until you get a layout you are happy with and aim to avoid any cut tiles being placed in the more visible areas of the room. Ideally, you want to make sure that your edge tile is at least half the width of a whole tile.

Use a pencil and ruler to mark out your cut lines and don't forget to take into account spacers and grout lines. 

5. Measure around obstacles and cut your tiles

Now comes the time to cut your tiles. In small bathrooms, if you are using ceramic or porcelain tile, you will usually only need a manual tile cutter, or snap cutter. A glass cutter – a small hand tool with sharp wheels that can cut ceramic or glass tile – can also work well.

If you are remodeling you might find you have existing features such as door jambs to navigate. This means you are going to need to make cuts in your tile for them to fit neatly around them. A tile scribe and tile nipper can be used for cutting tile to fit around obstacles. The QEP 9 in. Compound Tile Nipper from Amazon is made with tungsten carbide tips and is suitable for all tile types.

Ideally, you should be tiling underneath the sink, toilet, and so on rather than around them for a neater finish.

6. Fix your tile into place

If you dry-fitted your tile like you should have, you will already have your central starting point. 

Using your notched trowel, evenly spread enough thin-set or the best tile adhesive for your tiles the first time, then butter the back of the tile itself before laying the tile and tapping it down gently with your hand or rubber mallet. Using your spirit level, check that the tile is level in all directions and carefully wipe away any excess adhesive with a damp cloth. 

Repeat this process for the whole floor, placing tile spacers as you go. You want to place your cut tiles last and if you can’t reach over your newly laid tiles to get to the spots these are being fitted then wait until they are dry to avoid putting any weight on them. Check the drying times recommended for the tile adhesive you have used.

7. Apply sealant if required

If you have chosen natural stone tiles, these will usually need to be sealed before you can grout as they stain easily. Check that the sealant you use is suitable for your tile material first. StoneTech Bulletproof Sealer from Amazon is suitable for natural stone, tile, and grout. 

Clean the tile, allow it to dry and then apply your chosen sealer using a clean paintbrush.

8. Apply your grout to the tiles

Having removed your spacers, it is time to finish off your tiles neatly by applying your grout. 

“Make sure to let the adhesive cure fully before you start grouting (usually this will be 24 hours), otherwise the tiles might shift and become uneven,” warns Drew Mansur. “Use a rubber tile float to work and push the grout into the gaps between the tiles, pulling the float towards you across the face of the tile. If you are using a grout that requires you to add water to a power mix, only make up as much as you can use in around 15-20 minutes as it may get too hard and be difficult to apply. For DIYers, ready-mixed grouts can be an easier option."

Opinion is divided on how to grout tiles, and in particular this next step. Some people prefer to use a wet cloth or sponge to clean off excess grout before the grout between the gaps has fully dried as it can be hard to remove once fully set. Others prefer to wait until the grout lines have fully cured before wiping the entire surface over with a grout haze remover. 

Either way, once everything is set, clean off the tile and allow it to dry.

9. Apply sealer to the grout

Applying a grout sealer will prevent water seeping through and getting beneath.

FAQs

What is the best tile for a small bathroom?

The tile you choose for your bathroom needs to make the most of the space you have available, but you also need to think about the overall look you are going for – for example, if you are aiming for modern small bathroom ideas, the tiles you choose will be different from those after classic schemes.

“Your tiles will have a pretty big impact on how big the room will feel, and for smaller spaces, your best bet is to go for lighter colors,” advises Drew Mansur. “Lighter options like whites, light grays, or pastels will help spread light and make the room look bigger. If you prefer darker colors though, consider using them as accent tiles rather than the main tile color.

“Small bathrooms, such as powder rooms, are an opportunity to unleash your creativity with a tile floor design. If you choose a classic color mix of tile, like black and white. you’ll have infinite possibilities for tile size and installation patterns but a timeless color combination that can adapt to different bathroom wall colors and accessories,” suggests Julie Taylor Interior Designer at FLOOR360. “If you’re going for a creative personalized floor tile pattern it’s wise to find a flooring showroom that can create an AutoCAD drawing and provide installation expertise so you can approve the exact floor tile pattern to scale and order the accurate quantity."

What size tile is best in a small bathroom?

Choosing the right size tiles for a small bathroom needs to be a priority if you want the room to feel as spacious and bright as it can.

It is something of a myth that large tile makes a room feel smaller – in fact, very often, with fewer grout lines to busy the look of the floor, they can actually help create a sense of space. That said, everything from the shape of the room to the amount of natural light coming in will have an effect.

Small tiles might seem like a good idea, but those that feature a busy pattern or that are super tiny – meaning lots of grout lines – can feel a bit overwhelming. If you have your eye on some mosaic or highly patterned tiles and are worried about how they will look, just use them as an accent detail, such as a border, backsplash, or in a shower enclosure instead.

“Choosing the type of tile for a small bathroom can be a challenge, especially since the goal is usually to make the space feel bigger,” says Brandon Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration LLC “One of the best ways to pick tile types is to decide if your space feels more open or enclosed with large or small format tiles. It can honestly go either way depending on the space involved.”

Do I need a decoupling membrane in a small bathroom?

There are many benefits to using a decoupling (also known as uncoupling) membrane. They protect tiles from cracking should the substrate move, some provide waterproofing and certain products also offer sound reduction and help with thermal insulation. 

Some people think that it is unnecessary to use a decoupling membrane in a small space, but while it is definitely true that they should always be used in large bathrooms, the substrate you are working with is more important than the size of your bathroom. 

Cracked concrete substrates, timber subfloors and even newly installed concrete slab all have the potential to move, shrink and swell which could well cause your tiles to crack. In short, to be safe, it is best to use one.

What kind of tile cutter will I need?

As you are only working with a small space, the kind of tile cutter you need will be different to if you were cutting a large number of tiles for a big room.

A glass cutter, manual tile cutter (or snap cutter) and tile nipper will usually do the job just fine.

Electric angle grinders are recommended if you are going to be making lots of curved cuts or will be working around items such as a toilet, sink or bathtub.

A wet saw is unlikely to be needed for a small bathroom but if you need to know how to tile a floor in a larger space then this is one tool you are likely to see recommended.

Meet the experts

In many ways, tiling a small bathroom floor is not all that different from tiling the floors of larger rooms – the key to success lies in choosing colors, patterns, and layouts that will make the space feel restful.

One word of caution here, make sure you have enough tile to complete the job, and don’t forget to account for accidents – this is just as important for those after kitchen tile ideas as it is when dealing with a bathroom.

“I always advise homeowners to purchase more tile than the job requires for those ‘just-in-case moments,” says Julie Taylor. “Unexpected or unforeseen damage to the tile during or after installation can be a pain, but having extra tile makes it easy to replace the tiles without searching for a match. 

“You can expect to pay a minimum of $10 - $20 per square foot for a quality porcelain tile and upwards of $35-$55 square foot for the installation labor if not doing it yourself. A skilled tile installer will charge more for intricate patterns or small mosaics.”

A new Emily Henderson wallpaper hack has graced our social media feeds, and the renter-friendly method uses an unlikely source to zhuzh up walls: fabric. 

Instead of traditional pasted or peel-and-stick wallpaper, the designer reveals how to transform any room with textiles, water, and starch, making it a damage-free way for renters to decorate their walls. Our experts reveal how to do it in four simple steps, plus the supplies you'll need to recreate this dreamy look.

While the best peel-and-stick wallpaper continues to serve renters well for style and damage-free results, now you can turn any print you love into statement wall decor.

See the Emily Henderson wallpaper hack in action

Gretchen Raguse, an Emily Henderson Design employee, decided to give this method a go when contemplating easy small bedroom upgrades.

She paired a moody green vintage floral print with zen pieces: a rattan headboard, blue bed sheets, and wooden nightstands. Her brass table lamp, similar to the Alden Décor Dome Iron Table Lamp from Bed, Bath, & Beyond, adds the perfect touch to her sleep space. 

Watch below to see the easy small bedroom DIY project come to life. 

Instead of wallpaper and some sort of adhesive, use fabric and a water and starch mix to put up this renter-friendly small space DIY feature. You can later take it own damage-free, keeping your landlord happy, and your walls immaculate.

Exactly how to hang wallpaper varies depending on the type of wallpaper. Here's what you'll need to go the fabric DIY route, like Emily Henderson and her team:

Supplies you'll need

• A lightweight textile of your choice
• Fiskars Scissors 8" Bent Right-Handed Scissors from Walmart
• Edward Tools Hand Paint Roller and Cover 9” from Amazon
• Purex Sta-Flo Concentrated Liquid Starch, 64 oz from Amazon
• Sterilite 8 Qt. Plastic Dishpan from Walmart
• Amazon Basics Tape Measure 16' from Amazon
• 4' x 15' All Purpose Canvas Drop Cloth by CCS CHICAGO CANVAS & SUPPLY from Amazon

Step 1: Prep your space

Clear out any furniture that will get in the way of you reaching the walls you're working on and lay down painters sheets or drop cloths to protect your floors and belongings from drips. Remove dust, cobwebs, and any loose debris from your walls. A HBTower Step Ladder, 2 Step Stool from Amazon might come in handy for tricky corners. 

Prep your tools: you'll need a tray for your combo of liquid starch and water, a paint roller, painters tape to hang the fabric (a stapler works too, but will leave permanent marks), a measuring tape to plan out each panel's size, fabric scissors to cut, and a spray bottle filled with your liquid mix -- if any parts of the wall look a little bubbly throughout the application process, spray the mix to smooth things out.

As fun as it might be to select colorful patterns and interesting designs, do keep in mind that the type of fabric you work with is important. 

"Select lightweight textiles to make it easier when applying them on the walls," says  designer Artem Kropovinsky. "Also they should be in line with the design and lighting of the room."

Step 2: Measure and cut your fabric

Start by measuring your wall, then cutting the appropriate sized panels from your chosen fabric, making them a bit longer than necessary. You can trim them later for a perfect fit as we all know walls and floors are rarely super straight. 

If you want the fabric to be super flat and wallpaper like, steam-iron your panels to get any creases out (the BLACK+DECKER Steam Iron with Retractable Cord from Target will do nicely).

"Of course like any wallpaper, make sure the walls are clean, smooth, and patched up if there are any holes before application," says designer Chantelle Hartman Malarkey. "Make sure your lines are cut straight, or else the eyes will always be drawn to the imperfection."

Step 3: Mix paste and hang

The next step for this bedroom wallpaper idea is hanging the fabric. Use painter's tape to temporarily place your fabric in the proper position.

Mix the paste (an adhesive-free combination of half water and half liquid starch), and use a roller to paste over the top of the fabric, leaving your walls untouched. The amount needed will vary depending on the size of your wall, so grab an extra bottle if you're working with a lot of space. According to Emily and her team, you can rolling directly on top of your dry, hanging panel, provided the fabric you're working with is not too thick. 

"Using fabric as wallpaper creates an incredible and unique aesthetic to any room," says Antonia O’Hara Founder of Indigo by Boutin. "We suggest using liquid starch to install in order to easily change it down the road if you ever want to switch up the design."

And as far as styling, Antonia is all about the bright, bold route. 

"I think using a bold fabric, preferably a block print design really allows it to take over the room," she adds. "From there you can use more neutral pieces so that the room does not look too overwhelming."

Step 4: Tidy up panels

Once your fabric wallpaper paste has dried and the panels secure, use scissors to cut away any excess and remove the painters tape that had been holding things in place. Your fabric wallpaper should stay firmly put. 

Make sure to open windows and put on fans during the drying process, which should take several hours, but to be extra certain everything is in place properly, Emily and her team suggest waiting about a day. Use a trimmer to cut away any excess fabric or fabric that goes over switches, windows, etc. 

When all is said and done and you're ready to move, simply pull the wallpaper/fabric off the wall and enjoy a clean wall, keeping landlords happy. If you're curious, Emily says the panels of fabric can be used again. 

Looking to get even more creative with your wallpaper? Allow our DIY experts to assist. They'll instruct you on how to use peel-and-stick wallpaper for a major furniture upgrade and how to tackle out-of-the-ordinary wallpaper project ideas to make a statement.

Wondering how to decoupage? The paper crafting technique is back on trend, with more people making mindful makes in their homes. 

I tried out the technique myself, and trust me when I say it's so easy to do. I'll guide you through the steps on how to do it with a tin can and coasters, but you can decoupage many surfaces — even furniture (yes, really)!

If you're looking for small space DIYs, decoupage is renter-friendly, fun to do, and the result is very rewarding, too.

How to decoupage in seven easy steps

Decoupage is the craft of decorating an object with cut-out paper pieces by gluing them onto the surface. I love this as an easy spring DIY idea to bring floral prints into the home, but you could definitely decoupage for any season.

You'll also find shoppable products you'll need to for this crafty DIY indicated throughout my guide. 

The prices below were correct at the time of publishing this article. 

Step 1: Gather your supplies

You don't need too many supplies for this  — in fact, you can even recycle items you have around your home.

You will need:

• Your decoupage item — I used both a washed tin can and a set of coasters similar to these Goh Dodd Coasters on Amazon.
• Decoupage paper — you can buy specific paper, but I recycled an old magazine. You could also use newspaper, tissue paper, and rice paper.
• Paint — I recommend using an acrylic paint, such as this Angelus Acrylic Paint with over 29,000 reviews on Amazon.
• An all-rounder glue, sealer, and varnish — I used matte Modge Podge from Amazon.
• Decoupage paint brushes — these Modge Podge Brushes are Amazon's Choice.
• A plate for the paint.
• Scissors — I like how budget-friendly these Westcott Scissors from Walmart are.
• Kitchen towel.

Step 2: Paint your items

I decorated a tin and coasters in our tutorial, but there are other items you can use decoupage on. 

“Other items suitable for decoupage include vases, jars, plates, planters, and old photo frames,” explains Amy Tuntasood, home designer, DIYer, and founder of Salem Home Designs. You can even transform the appearance of a lamp base with decoupage.”

Once you've chosen your item, lay it out item on some kitchen towel to protect your surfaces and then give it a coat of paint. Squeeze the paint onto a plate you don't mind having paint on, dab your brush in, and get going.

If you're creating a collage on your decoupage piece and think you might have some of the surface peeking out, you can paint it a solid color such as white (this Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint from Walmart is just under a dollar). 

Alternatively, you can use your all-purpose sealer as a primer instead, if you want to leave the surface bare.

Step 3: Cut out your paper pieces

Find the piece of patterned paper you want to use for decoupage (I like this floral Perkoop Decoupage Paper Set from Amazon) and cut it accordingly. 

You could use a solid piece of paper and cut it to size to wrap around your piece like we did on the tin can. As well as this, you could always cut out individual elements of the paper to create a collage on your piece, such as what we did with the coasters. If you do this, be sure to cut them out neatly for a clean finish.

From here, lay out the paper pieces next to the item you want to decoupage so you have a clear idea of what's going to go where.

Step 4: Stick on your pieces

Dip your decoupage brush carefully into the glue and wipe off any excess before doing this. Then, flip the piece of paper you want to stick onto your item and paint the glue onto the back. 

You'll want to make sure the surface is fully covered, rather than just doing a couple of dabs, so it sticks on properly. 

Then, lay it onto your item carefully. Be sure to use your finger to smooth out pieces wherever possible. We could have done a neater job of this!

Repeat this step for each piece until your decoupage item is fully covered.

Step 5: Paint on finish glue

This step is a little bit similar to adding a glaze to pottery. It makes sure the finish is smart and the paper is fully smoothed down.

Using a larger decoupage brush, brush the whole surface with your finish glue. A finisher like Mod Podge will fully dry clear, so don't worry about it looking white when you paint it on.

Step 6: Leave to dry

You'll want to leave your decoupaged item to dry before doing anything else. I left mine for 12 hours to ensure they were fully dry and placed them on a plate with a sheet of kitchen towel in case any excess glue dripped off. 

You can dab your finger carefully onto the item to check if it's tacky or not before moving it to your desired place.

Step 7: Decorate as you please

Voila — your decoupage piece is done! 

I placed some dried flowers in my tin can and laid it next to the coasters as cute spring decor on the dining table, but you can also use your objects as small kitchen ideas and small office ideas.

FAQs

How to decoupage furniture?

As well as smaller pieces such as the vase I carried out this DIY decoupage project on, you can also decoupage larger items such as furniture. 

“Begin by sanding down or buffing the furniture to prepare it. Then, apply chalk paint in a color of your choice,” says Amy.

For decoupage, Amy advises using Mod Podge (such as this dishwasher-safe Mod Podge from Amazon) as a go-to adhesive due to its ease of use. 

“Apply a layer of Mod Podge, followed by your chosen floral or patterned material,” she says.

Then, let it dry before adding a finishing layer of Mod Podge.

Learning how to decoupage is useful for creating beautiful pieces throughout your home, whether you're looking for spring mantel decor ideas or want to learn how to upcycle a furniture piece with a vintage look.

If you want to carry on crafting and making pretty pieces, find out how to make a spring wreath.

Color drenching has been sweeping across our interiors and no wonder, with designers and DIY enthusiasts alike using it to great effect. You too can bring this eye-catching design feature into your small space with ease.

In our guide to color drenching, our interior designers share what makes this decor trend so popular, what to paint to achieve the look including walls, architectural detailing, ceilings and even the floor, plus how to bring the rest of the room in line without losing variation.

What's great about color drenching and why it's one of our top 10 interior design trends for 2024, is its ability to visually even things out, so if you have an unsightly fixture you can't afford to upgrade right now, painting it in the same color as everything else will create a uniformed look. 

What is color drenching? 

Embrace this fabulous trend with us and you'll never look back,we promise! It takes the fuss out having to choose different colors, and no more painstaking painting of white woodwork.

Below we look into what is color drenching and how to apply it in your own home, with expert picks to help you shop the guide.

The prices in this article were correct at the time of publishing.

What is color drenching?

Color drenching is when we paint everything the same color from skirtings to ceiling and everything in-between, including doors and even floors. You can use any shade you like, though mid to dark tones do create a more dramatic result. 

"Color drenching can be the single most effective and affordable way to transform and elevate a space, says Matthew Williamson, founder and interior designer at Matthew Williamson Design. "This technique transcends traditional boundaries by immersing an entire room in a single shade."

It works in every room of your home too, and we particularly love it in kitchens.

Helen Parker, creative director of deVOL Kitchens adds, "Painting your walls and cupboards in the same color is true commitment and will reward you with a cohesive and always impressive look. The all-encompassing color creates an atmosphere of calm where nothing is fighting for dominance." 

For a similar green paint to this kitchen pictured above, try Lick's Green 18 Matt

Where did color drenching come from?

It's not entirely certain where color drenching came from, though the Victorians did love to paint a lot, so it may have originated from that era and is a reaction to the maximalism look that's also popular. 

"I think its recent popularity comes as a reaction to the minimalist trend that has been so popular the past few years. Maximalism is back and people are yearning for rooms with more character and drama," says Katie McCaffrey, owner and principal of McCaffrey Design Group.

"I have been using color drenching for years because our firm has always attracted clients who love the way we play with color fearlessly. It's also a great way to minimize “static" that sometimes comes from contrasting trims and ceilings. Drenching a room in one color or one color range creates impact but it also creates a calm uniformity which can make a room feel bigger and more impactful." 

For a similar blue to the one pictured above, check out Farrow & Ball's Hague Blue.

How to color drench

The first step is to choose your color. Although most color drenched rooms you may see might be darker shades, that doesn't mean they have to be. A lovely blush, pale grey or light green would work perfectly well. 

"I personally love decorating with a blush or plaster pink as my go-to neutral for color drenching. It is kinder and more forgiving than white, more fun than beige and warmer than grey," advises Matthew.

Once you've picked your shade it's time to give your space the allover color treatment. Don't forget to remove or cover furniture to avoid paint splatter, especially if you're painting your ceiling (try the LOOBANI 10 piece waterproof 9x12 feet disposable plastic tarps on Amazon).

"From the walls and ceiling to woodwork, cornicing and even furniture and radiators, every surface becomes a canvas for expression. This approach creates a seamless and continuous look, which in turn can help to create the illusion of a bigger space," says Matthew.

This warming Coral Reef from Valspar is a near match to the cozy room pictured above.

Shop the color drenching look

If you'd love to try this exciting trend, then start by choosing your color. You can then add in accessories in the same shade for cohesion.

If you love color then this fabulous trend is really worth a try. Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to pick a dark color, go for a shade that you love the most across the room.

"Furnishings, fabrics and decorative items can amplify the chosen hue and contribute to the cohesive feel of the room," says Matthew. 

Katie agrees, "Color drenching is so fun! The ticket is to not be afraid. Jump in with both feet! Select a room that you want to have an impact. Select a color that resonates with you and which feels appropriate for your house." 

For more inspiration, check out our spring home decor ideas and small space decorating ideas.

Bringing spring home decor ideas into your place is a wonderful way to see in the season.

Say goodbye to dark and gloomy winter, and say hello to spring with all its bright and breezy decor ideas. We've asked design experts what they use to reflect spring's arrival and we're officially in love. Pastels, florals, and airy materials? Yes please.

When it comes to following the latest home decor trends, having in mind seasonal decorations is a great way to refresh your home throughout the year.

Spring home decor ideas we're loving this season

If you're looking for small space decorating ideas for spring, we've got you covered with plenty of gorgeous inspo.

Where possible, we've rounded up highly-rated product picks to match our expert's advice.

The prices below were correct at the time of publishing this article.

1. Bring in lighting

Even though the sun is now finally out, this doesn’t mean you can’t brighten things up a little more with smart lighting ideas.

“Take inventory of where your spaces have dark zones and consider adding a table lamp, floor lamp, sconce or even updating a center light fixture,” explains Eryn Oruncak, interior designer and founder of Elan Design.

She says a good rule of thumb is having three sources of light in a space. “It's important to bring the benefits of sunlight inside, too.”

Add a spring home decor touch with this Madelyn Capiz Faceted Sconce from Anthropologie, which has a lovely petal pattern and comes in a pearly white, and soft blush pink.

2. Add sweet pastel shades

We’re officially shrugging off wintery shades and bringing in all things sweet and sugary.

“Spring is all about vibrant colors and pastels are perfect for this season,” says Ricky Allen, interior designer and director of Ever Wallpaper.

You can do this with small space color trends, or Ricky suggests creating an accent wall with light pink or mint green wallpaper (this August Grove Amaranthine Striped Roll from Wayfair comes in both colors) to get this look for the season without having to completely renovate your home.

3. Use flowers and plants

If you’ve been on a lovely spring walk and want to bring all the scenery in, you can do so by choosing natural elements as spring home decor ideas.

Ricky explains, “As the flowers start to bloom outside, bring some nature indoors by incorporating plants and fresh flowers into your decor.”

We recommend going for one of the best indoor plants that grows flowers so you don’t have to throw anything away, such as this Costa Farms Bird of Paradise Plant from Walmart.

4. Refresh the fabrics

Many rooms need a good edit to lighten and brighten the accumulation of the winter months, which can be done with pretty fabrics.

Eryn explains, “One of the easiest ways to welcome spring into the home is to refresh the fabrics around the home. Freshening up throw pillows on beds and couches, and switching out blankets will make a huge difference in those spaces.”

To take your spring home decor ideas one step further, you could also go for one of the best bedding sets in a flowery pattern, such as this bright Floral Bedding Bundle from Anthropologie. 

5. Choose organic materials

If you’re looking at your furniture and think it could use a spring refresh, going for lighter colored furniture is the way to go.

Ricky says, “I like to add natural materials like wicker or rattan furniture to create a more organic feel.” 

Looking for a rattan piece you can use all year? We’re into this Bayou Breeze Okkra Drawer from Wayfair, which is giving us all the boho vibes.

6. Make a flower wreath

Make your home the most beautiful on the street by hanging up a handmade, gorgeous flower wreath on the door, which you can do yourself as easy renter-friendly small space DIY ideas. 

“I think one of the best ways to bring spring into your home is through beautiful flower wreaths,” says Raf Michalowski, interior designer and founder of Meble Furniture.

Fabric flower wreaths are easy to make and look stunning. They can be made using any type of fabric, such as cotton, linen, or silk.

“You can also choose between different types of flowers like roses, daisies, or tulips depending on the overall theme of your home decor,” he adds.

Choose from real flowers or even go for fabric flowers for a wreath you can reuse year after year.

7. Finish with thoughtful accents

For those who don’t want to go all-out for the season but still want to celebrate it, you can do so by choosing sweet accent pieces, or perhaps rugs, like selections from the latest Ruggable x Morris & Co. drop.

Ricky says, “Decorate with spring-themed accents such as floral prints, animal figurines, or pastel-colored vases.”

These small touches will add a touch of spring home decor to any room and can be swapped out for other seasonal pieces throughout the year. 

As well as adding spring home decor ideas into your home, one of the best ways to zhuzh up your space is by going for a spring clean.

Eryn finishes by saying, “This is the best place to start in terms of welcoming the season into the home. The feeling of a fresh and clean space gives an unmistakable sense of relaxation and comfort."

Start with these spring cleaning hacks and tips and your place will look shiny and fresh.

If you're not afraid of a little elbow grease, renter-friendly small space DIYs are worth a try. No matter if you're a beginner, we've got you covered with ideas you can easily do.

We've spoken with interior designers and DIY pros who love getting creative in small spaces to find out what dreamy ways you can add sparkle with clever crafts. Elevating furniture for more space and transforming surfaces with peel-and-stick tiles are just a couple of tricks they use.

You don't need to spend a lot to add stunning small space interior design ideas. In fact, the ones you create yourself will give you a home you can be proud of.

Renter-friendly small space DIYs you can do with ease

From ways to make your small room look bigger, to clever hacks for concealing unsightly pieces, our experts have got you covered with useful tips.

Where our experts have suggested any specific products you need for DIYing, we've also found matching buys.

The prices below were correct at the time of publishing this article.

1. Lift up your bed or couch

Big bulky furniture pieces like beds and couches can take up a lot of room, leaving not much room for small space storage solutions. That is unless you try this trick.

“You can elevate your bed or sofa slightly and incorporate sliding storage bins or drawers, effectively turning that unused space into discreet storage for shoes, linens, or seasonal items,” says Raf Michalowski, interior designer and founder of Meble Furniture.

All you need for this are heavy-duty riser blocks, which you can either build yourself from leftover wood or get from a store (such as these Annkut Furniture Risers from Amazon).

From here, lift your furniture piece, place these around the edges of where it normally sits, and place it back. Boom — you’ve created discreet storage space.

2. Hang up shelves with adhesive strips

Utilizing vertical space is one of our top tips for smaller homes. As a renter, you may be thinking you can’t do this — but we’ve got you covered with a magic tip.

“Save space and don't drill into walls by using floating shelves that attach to the wall with sticking adhesive strips,” says Artem Kropovinsky, interior designer and founder of Arsight.

Our favorite adhesive strips have to be these damage-free Command Strips on Amazon, as they’re super strong and will leave your walls intact.

Artem adds shelves are perfect for use in showing ornaments, books, or your best indoor plants.  You can create your own shelves by cutting down wooden planks to size, sanding them down, and painting them in gorgeous small space paint colors.

3. Create a gallery wall to distract from sockets

One of the most annoying things about living in a rental has to be not being able to change fittings such as sockets. Why are they all in such random spots, right?

“I like to add gallery walls to hide strangely placed sockets, as you can either hang photo frames on sockets you aren’t using, or hang multiple pictures to distract from them,” says Tommy Mello, home improvement expert and founder of A1 Garage Door Service.

Choosing gorgeous, eye-catching prints will not only draw attention away from sockets, but will also elevate the decor in your desired room.

4. Liven up walls with peel-and-stick wallpaper

While your contract may say no paint, we bet it doesn’t say anything about not using the best peel-and-stick wallpaper. 

Artem explains, “Enliven your walls with indoor wallpaper that is easy to install and remove. This is a good method to create textures or patterns without the obligation of regular wallpaper.”

You could do this as just an accent wall for a subtle pop or even cover the whole area for maximum impact.

5. Hide wires with baskets

Unfortunately, there is no way to make wires look good — which is why we’re loving this way of hiding them.

Tommy says, “One of my top tips for unattractive wires and cables is adding a basket on top of them.”

You can do this by cutting out a slot on either end of the basket, so the wire can easily fit through. 

If you don’t have a basket to hand, these Honey-Can-Do baskets on Amazon would work perfectly. It's especially effective for hiding cables on TV stands, making the whole unit look sleek and sophisticated.

6. Add pizazz with peel-and-stick tiles

You might not be able to add heavy tiles, but peel-and-stick tile ideas can still have a similar effect on your small kitchen or small bathroom splashback.

Artem explains, “You can create a reinvention of your kitchen’s backsplash and bathroom floor using peel-and-stick tiles.”

“They are easy to install and take off which makes them ideal for renters who want to improve their space temporarily,” he adds.

We've got these Nexus Peel and Stick Tiles from Amazon in our baskets, which will make any small space look luxe affordably.

7. Cover up your radiator

There’s nothing like an old, several-times-painted run-down radiator to ruin the look of a perfectly good rental. 

“Instead, you can DIY your own cover out of wood, aluminum, or particle board to hide old metal radiators, and give your room an elevated, built-in shelf look,” says Amanda Wiss, design expert and founder of Urban Staging and Urban Clarity.

She adds, “When you move out, just slip the cover off and your landlord will never know.”

8. Change up your doorknobs and cabinet pulls

They say the devil is always in the detail, and by adding chic touches to your doors and drawers, you’ll be able to make them look ultra-refined without having to spend too much.

Amanda explains, “If you’re not a fan of your standard issue doorknobs and cabinet pulls, visit your local hardware store for alternatives. These can be switched out and stored in a safe place for when you move out and put them back.”

For cabinets we love these vintage-vibe Aobite Cabinet Pulls on Amazon, while for door knobs these glitzy CLCTK Glass Door Knobs are Amazon's Choice.

If you aren’t confident doing this and don’t want to upset your landlord, you could always learn how to upcycle a furniture piece and add swish additions to it instead.

Even in a rental, just a couple of quick DIY solutions can raise the game of how it looks.

Raf finishes by saying, “Small spaces present a canvas for inventive DIY solutions which seamlessly blend style and function.”

If you’re looking for even more crafty inspiration, we also recommend these pro-approved small living room DIY ideas for making this room more inviting. 

Knowing how to create wall storage ideas to utilize every inch of vertical space can feel challenging, especially if you live in a rental property or aren’t confident when it comes to DIY. 

To make adding wall storage a little easier, we’ve spoken to a panel of experts who’ve shared a selection of clever solutions. From low-cost options, such as installing hooks, to drill-free peel and stick floating shelves, our experts have smart wall storage ideas for every room and budget. 

Using vertical wall space will go a long way in organizing a space and making each room work for your storage needs.

How to create wall storage ideas 

The pros have shared all their best advice for maximizing wall space with a range of options, including adding renter-friendly shelves, in any part of your home, while also creating on-wall storage solutions that are as functional as they are stylish. 

1. Utilize hooks

Hooks offers an inexpensive and easy storage solution for keeping items organized and work seamlessly to take advantage of vertical space. They’re simple to install and quick to set up, and if you pick the right ones they’re also renter-friendly.

Organizing expert, Amy Bloomer says, “One of my favorite tips is to utilize hooks, especially, Command Hooks (such as these large matte black peel and stick Command Hooks from Amazon, which can hold up to 4 lbs).”

“They used to be just white and plastic, but now make them in all different shapes and finishes (we love this extra large Command hook in brushed nickel from Amazon) that look and feel like real hardware.” 

Amy explains that she uses peel and stick hooks to hang everything from backpacks and handbags to coats, towels and umbrellas, adding, "It keeps things easy to find, within reach, aesthetically pleasing and doesn’t involve any special tools to install.”

2. Add shelves

Shelves are a fantastic solution for adding stylish wall storage space that’s flexible and customizable. They’re also an extremely versatile solution that works just as well in the bedroom as they do in the bathroom, and a great way to provide a visible surface to display items on.

Amy says, “Floating shelves (such as these floating metal and wood shelves from Amazon complete with a handy storage rail) are an easy way to store items, especially above desks, beds, changing tables in nurseries, bathrooms and dining rooms. They make it easy to keep track of items you have because they are open and easily accessible. 

“I've used floating shelves (like these rustic-style floating shelves from Amazon) for storing office supplies in home offices where space is tight, in bedrooms for books, photographs and keepsakes, in dining rooms for plates, vases and serve ware and in bathrooms for toiletries.”

Cleaning expert, Karina Toner says, “Floating shelves are versatile and easy to install. They provide functional storage while adding visual interest to any room.”

3. Install pegboards

Pegboards (such as this modular wooden pegboard from Target) are a great option for adding a large amount of easy-to-access wall storage that’s also super versatile. 

Karina says, “Pegboards (such as this vibrant pink pegboard from Target also available in six other colors) offer customizable storage solutions for various items, from kitchen utensils to office supplies. They can be easily mounted and rearranged as needed.”

The great thing about pegboards (such as this chic gold wire framed pegboard from Amazon) is that you’re not bound by the width or height of shelves. Instead, you can move things around the peg board, using customisable hooks, baskets and shelves to perfectly fit your needs. 

4. Wall-mount cabinets

Wall storage ideas don’t just have to be practical, they can also be used to add color and style to your space. 

Karina says, “Wall-mounted cabinets are ideal for maximizing vertical space in bathrooms and kitchens. They provide concealed storage for toiletries, spices, or cookware.” 

Just remember, if you rent you’ll probably need to ask your landlord if you’re able to install this kind of wall storage before you do it. 

5. Use over-the-door organizers

Amy says, “Mount an over-the-door shoe organizer (such as this 20-pocket over-the-door organizer from Amazon) directly on a wall using hooks or nails. This is an awesome way to organize water bottles, art supplies, hair accessories, winter accessories and so much more. 

"You can either get opaque or clear, depending on the aesthetic that works best. Some clients prefer solid fabric to disguise the contents, but then it's important to use labels. Other clients prefer clear plastic (such as this clear plastic organizer from Amazon) so they can always see how much they have."

If you're feeling inspired and looking for more organization ideas, you'll be pleased to know there are plenty of expert-approved tips for everything from small entryway storage ideas, to small bedroom storage to get your space looking ship shape in no time. 

It's not easy trying to figure out how to fit a towel rack in a small bathroom, especially when you can barely squeeze in there yourself. Designers always seem to recommend vertical storage options, but what happens when there's not enough wall space to execute a plan?

Tight quarters can be frustrating, but it doesn't mean they're a lost cause. Whether you're living alone or sharing space, it's possible to square away necessities with our expert organizer and design guidance with eight tips on how to fit a towel rack in a small bathroom.

If your small bathroom ideas include a towel rack, the pros can tell you where to start measuring. Toolkits at the ready!

How to fit a towel rack in a small bathroom

Your initial ideas on how to fit a towel rack in a small bathroom might go out the window, but there are definitely ways to get your Brooklinen favorites and the rest of the bath towels in your collection situated. 

Start by decluttering your small bathroom and then work to set up a rack in one of our pro's favorite spots. 

1. On the bathroom door

Vertical space might be limited when it comes to the walls, but don't forget about the back of the door. 

"One of the best ways I've seen of maximizing space is by installing towel racks on the inside of the bathroom door," says Nick Valentino, the VP of market operations at Bellhop. "If you mount one high and one low, there's even room for two full-sized towels as long as you fold them correctly." 

Should you be wary about making holes in the door, renter-friendly option such as a Madjid-over-the-door towel rack from Wayfair that doesn't require any installation is the perfect plan B.

2. On a cabinet

Designer Artem Kropovinsky  is always in favor of leaving floor space clear, no matter the room you're working with. 

By opting for a wall-mounted bathroom cabinet, as he suggests, you're not only freeing up room to move around, but you're giving yourself some storage options, an essential rule for small bathrooms. Fasten a towel rack to the bottom of the cabinet or select a piece that already includes a towel rack (such as an Amazon wall-mounted bathroom cabinet with towel bar, available in four colors).

3. Above the toilet

If you're looking to make more space in a small bathroom but are still keen on having a towel rack, opt for a handy space near where you shower. 

"The space above the toilet can be suitable for a towel rack, and it's normally close to the shower," says professional organizer Laura Price. "I recommend installing one that allows you to roll your towels so you don’t have loose towels hanging down over the toilet."

4. Consider alternatives

Clever small bathroom towel storage ideas don't necessarily have to include a towel rack. There's no requirement for the feature. You can keep your linens folded or rolled neatly and stashed in a woven basket, on a decorative ladder, or in a freestanding cabinet. 

FAQs

Now that you're settled on where to put everything in your W.C., you'll want to keep things organized and clean. One thing you can't avoid? Humidity. Experts shell out tips for how to keep a bathroom dry. No time for mold here.

Whether you rent or own, these small living room DIY projects will help make your little house a home, truly reflecting your tastes and personality. Small living room DIY projects deliver a lot of bang for their limited bucks.

With this space often pivotal to hosting (for the social butterflies amongst you), or where you’ll spend a lot of time unwinding, it's a great room to focus your DIY energy with these six brilliant expert ideas.

With your small living room creative juices flowing, transform your lounge into a stylish and functional space.

6 small living room DIY projects

We spoke to Interior Designer, Nicole Cullum, who provided us with six fabulous DIY projects for small living rooms. She covers everything from wallpapering to lighting, so whether you're a seasoned DIYer, or a complete novice, we've got something for everyone's skill level.

1. Picture frame panel molding

Nicole recommends giving your living room an instant upgrade by adding panel moulding from Home Depot to your walls for an easy, elegant look. 

“Panel molding can be easily cut to fit your space, giving it a dimensional, structured look that feels like a sophisticated French chateau without the price tag,” she said.

Below, you’ll find materials and seamless steps Nicole has provided for incorporating panel moulding in these type of small living room DIY projects.

Supplies

• Primed polyurethane panel molding (like this molding from The Home Depot)
• Tape measure (you can get this Stanley tape measure from The Home Depot)
• Nail gun as this nail gun from Amazon
• Hammer such as this fiberglass hammer available on Amazon)
• Nails
• Laser level, like this Bosch mounting device available from The Home Depot
• Painters tape
• Heavy-duty glue
• Caulk gun (you can get a drip-free caulk gun from The Home Depot)
• Sealant
• Paint brush
• Paint color of your choice (Lick's cozy palette is particularly soothing)

Method

Step 1: Measure the length and height of your walls to determine how many panels you can fit on each wall. Leave at least 4-6 inches between each panel so they don’t feel cramped. 

Step 2: Sketch your panel design on a piece of paper so you can see the vision. Note your measurements on the length and width of each panel on your drawing. Mark each panel on the wall to double-check your measurements.

Step 3: Head to your local hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes and select a narrow trim with a width between 1-2 inches. We prefer pre-primed trim so your moulding is ready to be painted once installed.

Step 4: Have your hardware store cut your trim to your desired lengths, making sure they miter the corners to fit. If you have a miter saw like this one from Lowes, you can do this part at home.

Step 5: Layout your molding pieces on the floor as they are noted in your sketch, in front of each wall to make sure they fit before attaching them to the wall.

Step 6: Start on your main wall, with the center panel. Mark where your molding starts, and place the laser level along the vertical and horizontal lines to make sure your molding is placed level.

Step 7: Apply construction adhesive to the back of your first molding piece and place it along the laser level. Repeat for all trim pieces.

Step 8: Add trim nails every 12 -24 inches to ensure it's properly secured to the wall. Fill in any holes with caulk, and run the caulk along the inner and outer edges of the trim. Wipe away any excess with a rag or paper towel and allow the caulk to fully dry. Repeat for all trim pieces.

Step 9: Paint your pre-primed molding either the same color as your walls for a seamless look or an accent color to make them stand out. 

2. Found object hairpin coffee table

Add a cool mid-century modern vibe to your living room decor by swapping out your coffee table legs with chic and timeless hairpin style table legs. 

"I love this project because it’s easy instant gratification, super affordable, and the sky's the limit on creative options," says Nicole.

There are tons of hairpin legs available online in a variety of finishes. Classic black, gold, or brass legs accentuate your existing decor and give your living room an easy upgrade.

You can also recycle natural materials from an old window, wood panel, or even a leftover stone piece from your local hardware store to replace the top of your coffee table, or build a new one with your hairpin leg replacements.

Supplies

• Hairpin legs (we like these brass hairpin legs available on Amazon)
• Coffee table of your choice (try this solid wood table from Wayfair)
• Screws, like this pack of 100 screws from Amazon

Method

Step 1: Select and order your hairpin legs. You can find these available online from many retailers (we like these budget-friendly Bed Bath & Beyond's budget-friendly three-pin set of four hairpin legs) or at a local hardware store.

Step 2: Screw in your hairpin legs with screws, making sure the screws aren’t too long that they will go through the coffee table top.

Note: Make sure your found object coffee table top is structurally sturdy enough to hold some weight. You want an object that you can style and use without risk.

3. Wallpaper bookshelves

Transform that dusty bookcase into a chic and stylish focal point by adding a fun wallpaper to the backs of your bookshelves.. Nicole says, "This is a simple, easy trick that makes a huge impact on your living room decor without a time-consuming DIY project."

In these sorts of small living room DIY projects, simply select a peel-and-stick wallpaper, cut it to fit each shelf back, peel off the backing from your wallpaper, stick it and enjoy.

Supplies

• Tape measure (you can get this Stanley tape measure from The Home Depot)
• Peel-and-stick-wallpaper (we like this wallpaper from Wayfair)
• Utility knife, like this set from The Home Depot

Method

Step 1: Measure the length and width of the backs of each shelf with measuring tape. Add up the total area (length x width) of the bookcase shelf backs to determine how much wallpaper you need. Add 10% extra to that final number for any waste or pattern matching.

Step 2: Select a peel & stick wallpaper, such as this World Menagerie option from Mayfair. Peel & stick wallpapers are like a giant sticker for home decor. These papers are renter-friendly because they are removable, unlike traditional wallpapers. Each roll comes with a paper backing that you easily peel back to expose the adhesive side of the wallpaper. 

Step 3: Place the top right corner of your wallpaper roll on the inside of the top left shelf, with the pattern side facing the back of the shelf, and the plain side facing you. Smooth out the paper so it fits into the interior of the back of the shelf. Mark the edges of the shelf with a pencil along the back of the wallpaper. Repeat for each shelf, making sure to match any pattern repeats across the roll.

Step 4: Cut each piece and note with a number or mark which piece fits on each shelf. Place your wallpaper in the upper left corner with the pattern side facing out towards you. Lightly peel the corner of the wallpaper backing from the wallpaper and place the exposed adhesive part flush to the top left corner of the back of your bookcase. Reach under the paper and continue to peel the backing away, while smoothing the top down with the smoother tool.

Step 5: Once the backing is fully peeled away, use the smoothing tool to remove any air bubbles by starting from the center and slowly smoothing the paper out towards each edge. Repeat for each shelf.

4. Abstract shapes mural

Transform your wall into a work of art with simple shapes in fun colors. Nicole recommends picking three to five complementary colors and painting some simple, abstract shapes as an accent wall behind your sofa. 

Supplies

• Paintbrushes
• Drop cloth (you can grab a big canvas drop cloth from The Home Depot)
• Cleaning wipes, like these Scott Shop wipes from The Home Depot

Method

Step 1: Sketch out a general idea of the size and shape of your idea on a piece of paper and mark where the colors will go on each shape to make sure you have a balanced and interesting composition.

Step 2: Get inspired by artist Henri Matisse and his organic shapes. Hop on Pinterest for inspiration on designs, or doodle your own on the wall.

Step 3: Select the color palette for the colors of your shapes. Canva has a color palette generator that can help you create the perfect colors for your wall mural.

Step 4: Go to the hardware store and match your color palette to paint chips and get single quarts of each color made in either a matte or eggshell finish in latex or acrylic indoor paint. Grab a paint brush for each color you’ll be using.

Step 5: Lay your drop cloth down on the floor in front of the wall you’ll be painting. Lightly draw out your design on your wall in pencil so that it matches your inspiration sketch and fill in each shape with your preferred color. Let each layer dry completely before going back for a second layer or adding any details.

5. Plant wall

Adding some indoor plants is always a good idea in a small space. "Fresh greenery never goes out of style," says Nicole. "Add garden-inspired drama to your living room with an easy DIY plant wall. "

Grab a set of six to twelve wall-mounted plant hangers and fill an accent wall with your favorite plants. Improve the air quality in your living room while creating a unique and eco-friendly style.

Supplies

• Plant hanger (we like this black metal hanger available on Amazon)
• Drywall anchors (you can grab a pack of screws and anchors from Amazon)
• Plants or faux plants like this faux spiderwort plant from West Elm
• Drill and drill bits
• Decorative rocks

Method

Step 1: Select your wall-mounted plant hangers. West Elm and Amazon have a great selection of indoor wall-mounted planters that make installation quick and easy. 

Step 2: Select the plants you’ll be putting in each planter. Knowing where each plant is going will help you determine how far apart each planter needs to be to accommodate the height of the leaves of each plant. 

Step 3: Mark where each planter will go on the wall. You can place yours in a classic grid style, checkerboard, a horizontal or vertical line, or do an organic shape for visual interest.

Step 4: Install the planters in your preferred design. Place a handful of rocks at the bottom of each planter to allow air circulation around the roots of your plants. This prevents rot and prolongs the life of your plants.

6. Hand painted lamp shade

You may not have thought of small living room DIY projects for your lamps before but a custom lampshade will really pop in a small living room. "Banish boring lighting by adding an artistic touch to your lampshade," said Cullum. 

"Draw or paint a simple design along the edge of your shade for a one-of-a-kind look."

If you're apprehensive, you can use a budget-friendly option, like one of our favorite Target lamps. 

Supplies

• Transfer paper, like this graphite transfer paper available on Amazon
• Acrylic paint (like this paint from Amazon)
• Paintbrushes (you can grab a pack of great paintbrushes from Amazon)

Method

Step 1: Find a design you’d like to add to your lampshade. Your design could be a cute scallop along the bottom edge, a motif from your favorite piece of artwork, or a unique design all your own. 

Step 2: Print your design to the size you’d like it to be on your lampshade. Tape the design on the shade where you’d like it to go. Slide the transfer paper under your design so it’s between your printed design and the lampshade with the graphite-coated side facing the shade.

Step 3: Lightly trace your design onto the shade by going over it with a pencil while the transfer paper is underneath. Once you’re finished tracing the design, remove the tracing paper, but don’t un-tape your design yet. Lift your design to make sure it is transferred completely. If you need to go back, you can put the transfer paper back underneath your design without having to try and place your design in its original position.

Step 4: Once your design is fully traced, remove both the transfer paper and the design to reveal the design on the lampshade. Paint or draw your design to complete the look.

FAQs

These are just a few of the many small living room DIY projects you can use to transform into a stylish and functional space. As all projects do, they'll take some time, however, they are easy to do and won't break the bank.  

With a little creativity and effort, you can create a cozy and inviting space that you'll love to spend time in, whether it be with your guests or alone! Use your newfound crafty confidence to DIY a small entryway, or brighten up your kitchen or bathroom with a DIY tile backsplash.

Give your space an instant makeover with some simple DIY small entryway ideas. Adding something as simple as a mirror or some extra lighting can go a long way in a tiny space. 

Entryways can be one of the trickiest to organize or even decorate to your acquired taste, especially if they are small. Having our entryway look cute is key because creating a first impression for your guests in the comfort of your own home is a must.

Have no fear, because I spoke with design experts about how to spruce up your space with some simple small entryway ideas.

DIY small entryway ideas

We all know that everything comes in small packages when living in a studio or one-bedroom apartment. All the way from the kitchen, closets, and bathrooms, to even the entryways. See some easy DIY ideas to make the most of a small space.

1. Add a mirror to create an optical illusion

Style & Design Expert, Ted Roberts, suggests adding a mirror to your front entryway is a great way to make the space feel larger and more welcoming. Not only does it provide a place for you to check your appearance before leaving the house, but it’s also a low-profile way to spruce up the look of a small space while making the room brighter. 

“If you position a full-length mirror in your front entryway to reflect natural light or the view from outside, you and your guests will subconsciously see it as a continuation of the outdoors,” he said.

2.Install lighting

To prevent your entryway from feeling cramped or dim, consider adding well-placed sconces, overhead lighting, or a unique chandelier. Roberts states that the right lighting not only brightens the room but also makes the space more inviting and welcoming. We even found some renter-friendly lighting ideas for an easy set-up.

"If you’d like to dress up the space in the evening more, opt for elegant chrome sconces that hang in a vertical direction to elongate the room," said Interior Designer Elizabeth Vergara.

3. Enhance security

“Gain extra peace of mind by bolstering your home's security with a key lock safe or deadbolt on your front door,” said Roberts.

Not only will it help you secure your home, but it will allow you to lock and unlock your door remotely and provide you with a greater ability to monitor and control who's coming and going.

“Think about your scheduled babysitter after school or dog walker who's coming to take your pup for their daily walk,” continued Roberts.

4. Add greenery

To liven up your entryway, Roberts recommends trying to bring in a bit of nature to create a calm and outdoorsy vibe. You can add potted plants, throw in some driftwood decorations, or place a big vase filled with branches for a serene and balanced feel. 

If you are looking to infuse even more personality, you might explore the idea of customizing your plant pots by experimenting with paint and baking soda for a unique textured appearance.

Best small entryway buys

Meet the Experts

FAQS

Adding a few small touches like a mirror or a potted plant can really transform your space. Finding new new ways to decorate your small entryway can help it feel fresh and modern without breaking the bank.

Leave the butcher knives in the kitchen: no carve pumpkin decorating ideas allow creepy creativity to flourish, minus the mess. It's time to kick back with your craft supplies, a scary movie, and those preemptive works of art. 

Our FYPs are filled to the brim with fun decor ideas for the spooky season, and while an astonishing number of hand-carved creations on the platform took our breath away, we were particularly attracted to the simple projects with a big "wow" factor. 

If you're still in search of DIY Halloween decorating ideas before October 31st rolls around, no carve pumpkin ideas just might be the way to go! Thank you for the inspo, TikTok!

No carve pumpkin decorating ideas from TikTok

Interior designers and DIY experts weigh in on a few no-carve methods from our FYPs, so it's time to get inspired! Plus, there are quite a few Halloween decorating tips to complement your gourds. 

1. Glitter Pumpkins

For a sparkly sensation this spooky season, look no further than glitter.

"It's great because it's easy and an eye-catcher," says designer Chantelle Hartman Malarkey "I love that there are so many colors, so you can pick one that matches the rest of your Halloween decor, or one that stands out to give your porch a pop of color."

Just snag a spray adhesive for your pumpkin, sprinkle your glitter shade of choice on newspaper clippings or an old tablecloth, and there you have it! 

2. Decoupage Pumpkins

Decoupage is having a moment, and crafters are opting for plenty of fun prints and drawings, particularly within the floral variety. 

"This craft medium is easy to work with and allows me to decorate real or faux pumpkins with paper designs or natural elements," says Kim Demmon of Today's Creative Life. "I can easily create a stylish theme without picking up a carving tool. Using vintage bug graphics is my favorite."

We are all here for the creepy crawlers...just as long as they're plastered onto pumpkins and not walking around our abode. Find a paper material that you like—let's say the Halloween napkins you just snagged from the grocery store—add some Mod Podge to your pumpkin and get ready for your final product to look museum-worthy. 

3. Pumpkin Succulents

The experts at Surebonder didn't have to do much to convince us to go the green route with a pumpkin succulent this October. 

Take a glue skillet or glue gun and apply succulent leaves and stems, followed by other rustic items like acorns and fancier items such as bows, if you so choose. The Surebonder pros recommend starting with moss as a base on top of the stem of the pumpkin and decorating from there. What you do next is entirely up to you. 

If you are in need of a little inspo, Canadian Succulents has the whole trend on lock.

4. Accessorized Pumpkins

A good gourd is a well-accessorized gourd. 

"Googly eyes are great for spooky pumpkins and for making any character pumpkins," Hartman Malarkey notes. "Pipe cleaners can make fun arms for the pumpkin or can even be formed into spiders you can attach to the pumpkin."

And of course, stickers are a must, particularly if you're crafting with little ones. Consider using stickers as a simpler approach to decoupage but with a similar aesthetic. 

5. Painted Pumpkins

Going Picasso is a classic for a reason, but of course, people have decided to take their pumpkin painting up a notch in honor of the spookiest time of the year. Crafter Elizabeth Jones inspired our favorite look this year—the no-paint pouring method, which gives off a super psychadelic look. 

How do you achieve it? Get about four shades or so of the same color and manually pour them into a disposable cup, one by one. Then, place your pumpkin atop a paper cup and pour out the paint.

"My Halloween decorations are now cute and whimsical, with a lot of pink," she tells Real Homes. "I love choosing non-traditional Fall colors to decorate pumpkins with." 

What to buy for no-carve pumpkin ideas

FAQs

Make sure you have cute Halloween decor buys to complement your project, and turn to your FYP for more no carve pumpkin decorating ideas on TikTok.

Stuck on choosing the best adhesive hooks? I've got you. I’m going to start by going on the record and saying I’m a proud rental girly. If you manage to find yourself in a place with a great landlord the “money down the drain” argument pales in comparison to the convenience, if you ask me.

However, there is a catch! The “no nail holes in the walls” clause is here to ruin all of our days. Goodbye, visions of hanging cool vinyl covers, succulents, and fairy lights. Well, that is until you discover the power of an adhesive hook. Whether you’re looking to give your kitchen utensils a quirky update, maximize space in your bathroom, or hang up your favorite pieces to save a floordrobe from the building, you can do exactly as you please without creating any holes in your wall (or your relationship with your landlord!) 

Bearing the different usages of adhesive hooks in mind, we’ve put together a little round-up of the best organizational products, suitable for varying weights and tastes and ultimately prioritizing damage-free removal, ensuring you won’t be met with peeling paint when it’s time to bid adieu to your rental. 

12 adhesive hooks to up the storage and cute factor in your pad

We asked Chantelle Hartman Malarkey, interior designer and expert on all things home revamp, for her insight on removing adhesive hooks without damage and she referenced the hair dryer hack where you heat up the adhesive to loosen it and then use a putty knife (like this Warner one from Amazon)to scrape it off! 

"I recommend for removing small adhesive hooks from a wall to try using a hook removal tool," she says. "The hooked blade can break the bond between the adhesive hook and the wall when used correctly. To use the tool correctly slide the tool against the wall and rotate it all the way around in a circle. The hooked blade will cut the adhesive and make it easier to remove."

Reliable but temporary —  these hooks will keep you and your landlord happy, allowing your four rented walls to transform into a whimsical wonderland without the dreaded damage and docked deposit drama. So, for those of us on the hunt for adhesive hooks that double up on character and hold, let’s get stuck in, shall we?!

Wooden adhesive hooks

Plastic adhesive hooks

Metal adhesive hooks

Ceramic adhesive hooks

Frequently asked questions

Where to shop for adhesive hooks

Still searching for adhesive hooks? Here's where to continue browsing...

• Amazon adhesive hooks
• Etsy adhesive hooks
• Walmart adhesive hooks
• Target adhesive hooks
• The Home Depot adhesive hooks

How we chose

Sometimes, it's not always possible to call in 12+ adhesive hooks at the same time, and dot them around an apartment to test them out. So on this occasion, we chose hooks that were highly rated and had positive feedback from genuine customers.

Now that you've got an idea of what sticky-backed hooks to shop for, why not read our guide on hanging things in an apartment? From pictures to curtain rods, our how-to will help you to install decorations with minimal-to-no damage.  

POV: You’re a renter who really wants to make their apartment feel like their own but are terrified to piss off your landlord. 

I’ll let you in on a li’l secret — I’m a serial rental so I’m all too aware of the dos and don'ts of renting. You can’t paint the walls (unless you have a super chill landlord like I had a few years back). You shouldn’t change the flooring (or anything else for that matter). And you most definitely shouldn’t drill holes in the wall, obvi. 

So, does that mean you can’t decorate your apartment? Should you really live in a sterile white box with no color or personality? Definitely not. You’ve just gotta be smart about how you hang things, that’s all. 

Wondering how you can hang things in your rental apartment without upsetting your landlord? We’ve rounded up a selection of ultra-easy ways you can hang things without causing any noticeable damage. 

How to hang things in a rental apartment

Use adhesive hangers

An ultra-easy way to hang things without causing damage is to use adhesive hangers. They're cheap and easy to use. Plus, there are plenty of options to choose from, from peel-and-stick strips, like these Command strips from Amazon, to Velcro hook and loop self-adhesive strips, like these heavy-duty sticky back ones from Amazon. 

Utilize a tension rod

Another great option for hanging things without drilling is to use a tension rod, like this set of four mini tension rods from Amazon. If you have a space that has two walls that aren't too far apart, using a tension rod to create a hanging space can work extremely well. A tension rod is great as it's super versatile and can be used to hang pretty much anything, from wall art to posters. Plus, tension rods are completely damage-free. 

Use adhesive tape

Easy peel adhesive tape is another option for decorating your walls without damage. You can use an adhesive table to adhere unframe prints to the walls. It's quick, easy, and when done right can look great. There are lots of options to choose from but we love this pretty gold design from Amazon. 

Curtains can create a warm as well as inviting space and are a quick and inexpensive way to make your rental feel like home. Whether they're blackout shades or sheer, flowy curtains, these additions are an essential part of any home, especially in small rental apartments for a variety of reasons.

Now, if you're renting an apartment, it's important to choose curtains that are durable and easy to care for. You should also make sure they fit well in your windows and that they match your apartment’s style. With a little coordination, curtains can be a fantastic way to improve the look and feel of your small rental apartment.

With this in mind, professional organizer and Reset Your Nest’s regional manager for the DC/Virginia region Eve Mitchell provided us with a tutorial, tips, and alternative ways you can hang curtains in a small apartment.

Good to know

• Time: 30–45 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate. Hanging panels, shades, or curtains isn't too difficult, but it depends on the method you choose.
• Helpful hints: Always measure twice before buying curtains so you don't end up with something too big or too small for your space!

Here's what you'll need

• Tape measure — everyone needs a good one and this Stanley pick is Amazon's Choice
• Pencil
• Rubbing alcohol
• Microfiber cloths — our favorite is this 24-pack from Amazon; they're so handy
• Command Forever Classic Large Metal Wall Hooks — you can buy these on Amazon
• Extendable curtain rod — this highly-rated option on Amazon comes in plenty of colors 
• Step stool or ladder (optional depending on window size)

How to hang curtains in a rental

Step 1: Choose adhesive wall hooks and an extendable rod

We recommend buying a set of Command Forever Classic Large Metal Wall Hooks (which are available on Amazon). They can hold up to five pounds, which is perfect for most window treatments. You'll also want to pick out an extendable curtain rod that can be sized up or down for different window lengths, too. This highly-rated pick from Amazon is a good choice and comes in several colors.

Step 2: Measure your windows and walls

First, you will need to decide if you want your curtains to fall just an inch or two above the floor or if you want them to pool at the bottom. The standard size for curtains is 84 inches but can go up from there if you like the longer look.

Step 3: Measure the length of the space above your window

For mounting curtains above a window frame, you will want to measure 4–6 inches from the window trim for placement of where the rod should extend. This can help make your small space appear larger. Use a measuring tape (like Stanley's FatMax from Amazon) and grab a pencil to mark out your measurements.

Step 4: Clean the wall

Now that you have your markings, it's time to install the adhesive hooks. Make sure to clean the surface with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag or microfiber cloth first. Don’t rub too hard or you could remove paint. All you want is the space to be free of dust. Once you’re done wiping it down, allow it to dry.

Step 5: Press and apply the hooks

Separate the strips and press the adhesive to the hook. Make sure to hold for 10 seconds. Then separate the strip from the hook and place it onto the wall and hold it securely for 30 seconds. Allow adhesive to cure for at least one hour or overnight.

Step 6: Add your curtains

Add your curtains to the rod, then carefully using a step stool or ladder, lay your curtain rod cross the window, placing them on your hooks. Ask a friend or roommate to help out if you have super tall windows.

FAQs

One of the benefits of being a homeowner is that you've got free reign to do (almost) anything to your property. But if your DIY skills (or lack of) are doing you a disservice, — just know you're not alone.

In fact, research shows that 52% of Brits steer clear of home improvement altogether because they lack the skills and confidence. That's over half of you reading this right now.

And, it appears mum's quite literally the word when it comes to passing down practice to the kids. A staggering 3.1 million of us are still calling our parents for reassurance on undertaking basic restorations and repairs — including fixing a leaky tap.

Luckily, nationwide waste removal experts HIPPO have taken on the mammoth task of teaching the country a thing or two about taking projects into their own hands. And it has asked none other than TV presenter and DIY enthusiast Dom Wood to help. 

Dom Wood's 9 top tips on DIY

Whether or not you know Wood from his days on BBC's Dick & Dom In Da Bungalow, the Devon-born entertainer is on the campaign to make us Brits BFFs with our toolbox. Studies show that nearly 40% of us a) don't have a hammer, or the right tools at all, and b) can't be bothered to clean up afterwards. Here are nine tips from the celeb that'll help up your DIY game and make the cleaning process easier.

1. A lick of paint can go a long way

"To help reduce waste and ensure your painting area is kept nice and tidy, stretch an elastic band over the length of your paint tin and shift it across into the middle to help you get any excess paint off your brush and avoid unwanted spillages," says Wood.

 "Make sure you cover your paint tray and brushes with cling film between painting sessions to help save additional time, energy, and paint."

2. Make sure you’ve got the right tools for the job

"It may sound obvious, but before you start any DIY job, you need to make sure you have the right tools to hand," advises Wood.

To create a DIY starter kit, his top tool recommendations are a hammer, screwdriver, tape measure, drill, and pliers.

3. Keep things tidy to help save time

To keep on track of the bigger indoor or outdoor mess that comes from your DIY projects, consider a HIPPOBAG. You can fill it up and book a collection with HIPPO to take it away.

As a carbon-neutral business, HIPPO’s strong environmental policies ensure that over 95% of all waste collected is diverted from landfill with the remaining disposed of in a responsible way. The company’s commitment to achieving a sustainable future means they take action to reduce their carbon emissions wherever possible and have seen a 34% reduction since 2016.

4. Always start small

The trick with DIY is often to start off small and slowly build up your confidence. One of Wood's favourite tips is to hang a frame up on the wall with limited hassle. Take a look at this picture-perfect three-step guide.

1. Squeeze a little bit of toothpaste on the outside of the nail hook hanger on the back of the picture frame
2. Place the picture on the wall where you’d like to hang it
3. Once the picture is precisely positioned, press down a little, allowing the toothpaste to naturally leave its mark on the wall, this will leave a clear mark where you need to put the nail.

5. Skill-share with friends and family

If you’ve recently learned a new DIY skill or discovered a quick and easy tip or trick, make sure you share it with others. Sharing tips is so important as we often assume other people are better at DIY than us.

6. Pay attention to detail

"DIY shelves are great for extra storage or displays in any room," says Wood.

"While it might seem overwhelming choosing a position or ensuring they’re straight, a little extra effort can go a long way in making the job much more efficient. When putting up shelves at home, I use masking tape to visualise where the shelf will go and to help mark out where the nails will be drilled."

1. Firstly, use the masking tape on the back of your shelf to mark your screw holes, then peel your tape off.
2. Transfer the tape to the wall, and use a spirit level to make sure everything is straight before drilling where you have marked on the tape.
3. Peel away the tape and add in the screws.

7. Shine a light

"If you’re painting a wooden surface, it’s a good idea to paint over knots with knotting solution otherwise the sap will bleed through any paint you apply," says Wood. "A wood primer followed by an oil-based undercoat should also be used and finished with an oil-based gloss or topcoat."

Inspecting your work can be done with the torch on your phone or a traditional flashlight.

"Position the light so it shines across the painted wood surface and detects any patchy surfaces, loose paint, or blemishes which need a little extra work," he adds. "Take a pencil and lightly circle the spots that you need to come back to."

Find out more about the DIY with Dom Wood campaign.

How HIPPOBAGs make DIY a dream

Stocked in over 2,000 stores across the UK, HIPPOBAGs allow you to get on with DIY without worrying about the waste left behind. Once you've received your flat-packed yellow sack, simply fill it with rubbish, and give HIPPO's friendly contact centre a call to arrange pick-up. Its team will take it off your hands (no permit admin needed), responsibly recycling your refuse at one of 250 accredited waste transfer stations nationwide that have been personally audited by HIPPO employees.

As the number-one skip bag company in the UK, you won't have to worry about taking time off of work to be in as HIPPO's helpful drivers will remove the heavy waste from the front of your home.

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When it comes to making your apartment a home, how you design and decorate is only part of the equation. For those who live amongst neighbors and noise, soundproofing can be a gamechanger. Also a great option for those who need a quiet space to study or record music, soundproofing an apartment can prevent the noises happening outside your space, like roommates, neighbors snoring, or traffic outside, from disrupting. 

By taking efforts to soundproof your space, you can live with peace and quiet (and never have to hear your neighbor practice the tuba again). From a new area rug to acoustic tiles, there are a ton of DIY routes to try, that won't break the bank (or your glasses). 

Listen In Before Signing The Lease

The best way to soundproof an apartment happens before you move in, in the shopping-for-an-apartment stage. Searching for a place that has no adjacent neighbors, to the left or right, or top or bottom, of the apartment is a great way to be sure you can drown out any unwanted noise. It’s also a good idea to visit a potential rental at the busiest time of day to get a sense of the noise level you’ll experience on a day-to-day basis

With Noisy Neighbors, Find The Sound Infiltration

One of the downsides of living in an apartment is the close proximity of your surrounding neighbors where unwanted noises can repeatedly be an issue. Tara Hagan, project manager at the architectural firm Assembledge+, says the first order of business when it comes to having noisy neighbors should be to find the open spaces.

“Sound infiltration from adjacent units can be reduced by making sure there are no cracks between spaces, even around wall outlets and switches,” she says. “Consult with your landlord to see if any gaps around outlets and switches in demising walls can be repaired using acoustic caulk.”

Install Acoustic Panels

One of the best products to help in a do-it-yourself soundproofing project are acoustic panels, designed to absorb sound. “Acoustic panels are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors and are very helpful in cutting down noise. They can be installed in an attractive way similar to a mural or work of art on a wall,” says Hagan. 

There are a variety of styles and colors available. When shopping for the right panels for your space, choose ones that you don’t mind living amongst, like this chic natural oak style from The Wood Veneer Hub, or these acoustic panels in muted colors from ATS Acoustics. 

Try Acoustic Tiles

If you don’t want to cover your wall with a soundproof panel, you can always try to absorb more sound using acoustic tiles. Although using tiles sparingly won’t totally soundproof a space, they can reduce the noise coming from outside (and noise leaving the room) just by being installed on the walls. Plus, there are tons of stylish designs including these geometric darker green tiles and these mosaic colorful tiles, both available from Felt Right.

Decorate Your Floors With Rugs

For cutting down on noises coming from surrounding apartments, consider adding thick carpeting or rugs. “Thick carpets with a carpet pad underneath will not only help muffle the sound of a creaky floor, they will reduce the level of impact sound noise heard by apartments below,” says Hagan. This comes with an added benefit: “Your downstairs neighbors will thank you,” she adds. This is a super simple and budget option too, as there are a bunch of cute rugs available, even on Amazon that offer up all the cozy and acoustic-friendly vibes you need to soundproof an apartment ASAP.

Preventing Apartment Echos

Some apartments can have issues with echos, where the sound level is never quite what it should be. “Echoes are caused by sound waves reflecting off hard surfaces,” Hagan explains. The good news is, many interior echoes can be prevented by adding a bit of apartment decor. “A great way to reduce the sound of echoes is by increasing soft, sound-absorbing surfaces in your home. This can be achieved by adding an area rug to cover hard floor surfaces such as tile, installing fabric window coverings, or having more plants in your home.”

Make It Your Own

Soundproofing an apartment is one of the biggest ways to create more calm in your space and Hagan’s final DIY advice comes with a bit of style. “Get creative!” she says. “Acoustic panels are available in custom sizes and shapes. Create a work of art that also reduces ambient noise.”

A missing or broken spindle on a staircase is less than ideal, not only does it look unsightly, but it’s also dangerous especially if you have small kids or pets that might fall through a gap. Or, if your stairs are looking a little tired then replacing the spindles, or entire balustrade, followed by a lick of paint is an awesome way to freshen them up! It sounds super tricky to replace them, but it doesn’t have to be and this is how you can get your stairs looking chic again ASAP.

DIY level: Intermediate (easy if you measure and cut carefully)

Cost: £/$20 a spindle 

Time: 30 minutes 

An overview of staircase designs

Before we get stuck in, here’s a quick rundown of your staircase. 

Treads: the top part of the stair you put your feet on

Risers: the front board of each individual stair

Base rail: the bottom rail that your spindles are fixed into 

Handrail: the top of stairs, attached to the top of the spindles. This can be attached to the wall or standalone 

Spindles: the vertical struts that connect the handrail to the base rail of your staircase

Newel post: the big upright post that fits at the beginning and the end of a staircase and supports the handrail of a stair banister

Newel cap: sits on top of the newel post to make them look pretty! 

How to replace a broken spindle

Don’t forget to check whether your spindle can be repaired before replacing it. If it’s obviously irreplaceable then skip to step one but, for example, if it’s split along the grain then pop a bit of glue on to cover the split and fill any gap, tie it with string or painter's tape (provided it won’t take the glue off!) to let it set and then leave it 24 hours and once it’s dry, remove the string/tape and your spindle should be good to go!

1: Remove the broken spindle 

First up, it’s important to remove any part of the existing spindle that is remaining. You can do this in one of two ways. Option one is to cut through the shoulder line of the joint on the underside of the handrail, using a handsaw then pulling the spindle out by wobbling back and forth. Option two is to gently tap it with a hammer or rubber mallet, to make the nails holding it in place come loose so that it is easier to remove. Take care so that you don’t damage any other spindles in the process! 

2: Tidy up the handrail and calculate spindles needed

Once you have removed the spindle, tidy up the staircase, removing any loose nails with pliers and if needed, sanding any rough areas to smooth. 

If you’re replacing broken spindles, this will be obvious but if it’s an update to existing spindles that you’re undertaking, then as a rule, you should place spindles a maximum of 10 centimeters apart. Aim for two per tread or one where you have a spindle adjacent to a newel post. You will also need fillers. 

3. Measure up and check your fillers 

The spindles are spaced using fillers (a piece of wood that slots at the top and bottom to hold spindles in place). They need to be cut to the correct length. If you’re just replacing a spindle, then you may not need to replace your fillers so check them before you get started. If they do need replacing, then you can use the old fillers as a guide for cutting your new ones. 

First things first, make sure your spindle is the right way up before you start, an easy mistake to make but not so easy to correct! 

You can use the old spindle as a guide and mark out the required length on the new spindle, as well as marking out and cutting the ends but I like to measure it against the staircase too.

To do this, using a level, place the spindle vertically against the handrail and base rail and mark with a pencil. Then, measure the depth of the handrail slot, and mark the cutting line above by this amount. Measure the depth of the base rail slot and mark the bottom line down by this amount.  Measure twice, cut once, so always do a final check and once you’re happy, cut with a saw (a mitre or handsaw will work well). 

4. Install your spindle 

Firstly, do a dry run before you install anything properly. If you’ve had to replace your filler, then slot them into place on the base rail and handrail. Place the spindle tight up against these and check that the spindle is vertical. Once you’re happy with everything, nail the fillers into place if relevant then put some glue onto the ends of the spindle and fix with a nail into the handrail groove. The head of the nail should be placed so that it will be covered by the filler. Now, you’re all done! That wasn’t so hard, was it?

Not sure how to hang a wreath on a door? Nothing screams Christmas like a ring of festive foliage and there really is no better welcome home than a well-dressed door or spruced-up inside space for the holidays. See what we did there? But if the thought of hanging a wreath for Christmas gives you stress because it looks hard and involves putting holes in your door or mantel, rest assured, you won't have to face any of that.

There are a few different ways to go about hanging your wreath, none of which cost a lot of time or money. Whether you want yours on the front door or if you'd rather keep yours inside, like me, you have options. 

So, renters: Christmas wreaths are not out of the question. Far from it. Join the hype ASAP. Because let's be honest, is a home really holiday-ready without one?

How to hang a wreath on a door without doing it damage

Hanging a wreath on a door is a classic look. But perhaps you want a door wreath and an indoor wreath for your Christmas mantel display (perhaps you are Elf?); and that's okay, you can do it all. 

The wreath hanging method you choose will mostly depend on the finished look you want, your budget for materials, the type of door you have, or the inside space you are working with. Fortunately, ribbon, self-adhesive hooks, and a couple more options will give a decorative and functional finish that won't ruin your door's material or paintwork.

"Our favorite tool for hanging wreaths is a command hook." Says Larry Walshe, Celebrity Florist and Founder of Bloom. "No mess, no fuss, they are utterly wonderful for almost all occasions.  Just pop it behind the door, run a ribbon overhead, and pop it on the command hook. At the end of the festive season, pull the strip and remove the hook without leaving a mark." Adds Walshe.

Jo Reason, head of brand at Bloom & Wild similarly points out that one of the simplest ways to display a wreath on a door is to use a hook. "You can buy special wreath hooks, but any other door hooks will work too," she says.

The hanging mechanism you choose is only part of the process though. Consider other things like the height you'd like to hang your wreath and what decorative finish you're after. Reason recommends eye level. "As you’ve just put a lot of effort and care into making your beautiful wreath, you want it to be the center of attention," she explains. "The center of your wreath should be at around 57 inches (140 cm)."

These are your best options for wreath hanging hardware for small and large decorations alike.

1. Use a classic over-the-door wreath hanger

We're big fans of over-the-door wreath hangers as they are so easy to use and your wreath shouldn't budge.

Plus, they will work on all door materials, you can pick out different finishes like matte black or silver, and they can usually allow for a heavier wreath. Pick out an adjustable and heavy-duty wreath hanger, like this matte black hanger from Amazon, that slots easily over any standard door. This method requires zero DIY skills. Just double-check that your door can close properly with your wreath hanger as some can be clunky.

To make sure that yours doesn't scratch at your door's paint job or material finish, try to choose a design with padding under the main body of the hook. If you can't get your hands on one, simply secure a little felt leftover from any Christmas crafting activities with tape for a DIY solution.

2. Try the flipped hook and ribbon method

If you're making a wreath yourself, then it's likely that you'll have some leftover ribbon or even twine hanging around. These materials come in handy for another wreath-hanging method. "Alternatively, you can put a self-adhesive hook on the back of the door and use a big ribbon to secure your wreath," says Reason. "Clear, self-adhesive hooks are great for hanging your wreath on a wall, too."

Measure the length of ribbon you need. You'll need to measure from the point where you'll be installing your hanging mechanism to the height at which you'd like the wreath to hang. Then double the length of the ribbon.

Loop the ribbon around the wreath so that there are two open ends on one side. Then, you'll just want to tie these ends in a knot or bow.

Next, you can install a clear self-adhesive hook, like this one from Command, on the inside of your door but upside down. 

Or, you can secure the ribbon using thumbtacks (you can pick up this mega pack of 500 from Amazon) at the top of the door for an even more discreet finish.

Finally, with your door open, suspend the wreath from your hanging mechanism of choice ensuring it's straight and secure.

3. Use door-safe self-adhesive hooks

Self-adhesive hooks are inexpensive and easy to install. They also shouldn't leave a mark on uPVC, fiberglass, or other types of door materials. Still, always read the instructions to be sure.

Before you install yours, you'll need to clean your door of any grease or debris so that it has a better grip. Take a biodegradable wipe or microfiber cloth, like this 12-pack of cloths from Amazon, and dish soap, and make sure you thoroughly dry the area using paper towels afterward.

Center your self-adhesive hook high up on your front door and secure it. Then hang your wreath directly on top. Alternatively, secure a small piece of string, wire, or ribbon around it to attach the wreath to the hook — measuring beforehand to get the right drop.

If you have a metal front door or glass panes, then you can make use of magnetic wreath hooks from Amazon, following the same method as when using ribbon or you could use twine.

4. Hang your wreath from the door knocker

Tying your wreath to your door knocker is a no-brainer if you're short on time. The process is pretty straightforward, and we'd suggest matching your ribbon to a bright color in your wreath to add an extra pop of festive flair.

Having a fixed feature to tie your wreath to will ensure it stays put when the door is opening and closing and even in high winds. 

5. Hang a wreath from your mantel

Depending on your home setup, you may actually not want to hang your wreath from the front door. 

It could also be that your door isn't fit for a temporary measure but that you really want to avoid putting holes in it. Walshe further adds how command hooks aren't the best for lacquered doors in particular "If you have a highly lacquered door, this is the only occasion we know of where a command hook is not your best friend. In that case, either a ribbon pinned/stapled into the top of the door frame so you can’t see the marks or wire it onto your door knocker. We always prefer to avoid leaving marks where possible but on some occasions, it is necessary."

If either scenario feels familiar, consider hanging your wreath above a mantel place like here. I used a command hook and pink ribbon for a subtle pop of pink Christmas color and the look is spot on. When it comes to the length of your ribbon, take full creative freedom on how long you want it. You could even forego the ribbon and choose a larger hook to hold the wreath closer to the mantel itself.

Lastly, dress the space with fairy lights.

Before choosing your hanging mechanism, start by weighing your wreath and figuring out the best height. This will determine how heavy-duty your hook should be, and how much ribbon you'll need if this is what you'd like to use. (We're into ribbon.)

Hooks and wreath hangers can usually take up to five pounds in weight but you can actually find way more heavy-duty hangers now that will hold over 10 pounds — a couple of which we've included below. Generally speaking, most shop-bought wreaths shouldn't weigh more than five pounds anyway.

If your wreath is homemade, measure it using a container or box and take its weight once you've completed it.

However you hang your Christmas wreath this year, you can keep it fun, stress and damage-free, with no detriment to all the festive vibes.

Whether you rent or own a home, bathroom upgrades are always welcome; and giving your space a mini makeover can be as simple as switching up your shower curtain. There are lots of designs to choose from out there but, it is actually very difficult to find an extra-long shower curtain in a non-neutral color. 

My DIY shower curtain

I wanted this bathroom to have some personality and play off the green vanity. And I wanted it to feel dramatic with the new paneled ceiling. I came across an idea online about using a flat bed sheet for window curtains so I thought why not for a shower curtain?

• Skill Level: Beginner
• Cost: $62

I’m using a queen flat sheet from Target for this project. The measurements of the queen sheet were the closest option of any size sheet but still needed a slight hemming.

Hand-stitching this would be super hard so try to borrow or rent a sewing machine if you don't own one.

Hemming the flat sheet

A queen flat sheet is approximately 96x102. I wanted the curtain to hang from an 8’ ceiling. In order to account for the curtain hooks, I hemmed the bottom of the sheet to 94” and the sides to 72” which is the traditional width of a shower curtain.

I allowed for an extra inch onto both side and bottom and hemmed a 1” seam by folding ½” and ironing and then folding another ½” and sewing flat. I left the top of the sheet alone, using the hem that was already there.

Matching up the curtain and liner

Once I had the sides and bottom hemmed, I laid the curtain out on a flat surface and lined it up with the shower liner underneath in order to mark where the holes for the curtain rings would go. I am using an extra long shower curtain. I was actually amazed that this particular curtain comes in so many sizes!

Creating the button holes

Using a pen, I marked where the holes would line up with the liner in the sheet. I decided to use a buttonhole stitch to create the holes. This is a very reinforced stitch and will be able to hold the weight of the sheet without ripping the fabric.

Once the button holes were stitched I used my scissors to cut a small hole inside the button stitch, just large enough for the curtain rings to fit through.

Re-hanging the shower curtain rod

I re-hung the curtain rod as close to the ceiling as I could and hung using standard curtain rings.

The finish

I love that this curtain now extends to the ceiling! It is a more dramatic statement and I am so into how the fun pattern complements the simplicity of the room.

Honestly, this DIY shower curtain would work with brighter colored sheets too if you have a more maximalist bathroom. For just a few hours of crafting and less than 100 bucks, it's a pretty neat home upgrade.

Cost breakdown:

• Flat queen sheet $35
• Shower curtain liner $17
• Curtain rings $10
• Total: $62

If there is one kind of person to admire, it's a DIYer. Especially one who is a bit of a novice but still willing to take a leap of faith. Although a lot of Real Homes' readers are hands-on with home renos and building things, a good chunk of us are hesitant about whipping out the power tools.

Regardless of where you fall, I couldn't wait to kickstart the Real Homes DIY competition to see what people are getting up to in their homes, and for October, one entry that struck me was this awesome media wall built-in, inspired by an IKEA Billy bookcase hack.

We love a Billy bookcase hack as much as the next person, and this DIY was done in a similar vein but using another type of IKEA bookcase, the SMÅSTAD / UPPFÖRA.  

All pulled together by a talented but very humble Mary Buck, it's an awesome example of how sometimes going bespoke is the best solution for beautifying an awkward spot in your home. Not to mention that taking on the project yourself will save you cash in the process since anything custom-made tends to cost a lot nowadays.

The project inspiration

Buck was having some media wall woes and simply took matters into her own hands. "Ever since I moved into my house about three years ago, I’ve hated my TV wall," she says. "It’s fundamentally lopsided, with one wall at a right angle and the other at a slant. I tried to create symmetry through angling my old set of bookshelves, but I’ve always hated the area."

Anyone who wants to create a balanced living room space will find that the TV, no matter how good it may be, shouldn't really take center stage and that a media wall above all, should not be an eyesore.

"I’ve looked into a bunch of different decorating ideas, but nothing ever really stuck," added Buck. After a little more digging, she found initial inspiration from the lifestyle blog Southern Revivals, falling in love with the Billy bookshelf IKEA hack on its site. She wanted to recreate it for her own space but had zero building or DIY experience. "I figured with a bit of online research, help from staff at the hardware store, and a little grit and perseverance, it could be done!"

And honestly, she did good.

Kindly sharing the process from start to finish, in her own words, this is how Buck went about this admirable project.

Step 1: Buy the basics

After measuring my space, I realized that I needed a much deeper bookshelf, so I decided on the SMÅSTAD / UPPFÖRA bookcase, which had the added bonus of a built-in stand, which raises the main frame 6 inches off the floor. While at IKEA, I also found two white tabletops, as they just happened to fit my measurements almost exactly, and bonus, they were on sale for $14/each!

I then made my way to The Home Depot to buy all the different types of wood, molding, and fasteners I would need for the project — though truth be told, it took me about five trips to get these all right! Here are my original measurements:

Step 2: Construct the frames at an angle

The first three frames were really easy to put together and just slot into the space, but the fourth was MUCH harder as I needed to cut the fourth bookshelf to fit the wall angle. After measuring and remeasuring, I sawed the base and top of the frame, and then attached the side to the angled base. It sounds easy, but this was the toughest part of the project — I was so proud when this baby came together! Here you can see the angle, and then the four frames in place.

Step 3: Build the bench

I was pretty nervous about building the bench, but it ended up being pretty straightforward. I already had the 2x4 legs pre-cut, so I just measured and screwed these into the two tabletops using the steel brackets. I made sure to use my level at every phase to ensure the bench didn’t end up wonky.

Step 4: Add the “built-in effect"

I didn’t want this to feel like five separate pieces of furniture sitting against the wall, so I needed to make this feel like a built-in.

• First, I painted and installed the wood top covering. 
• Second, to make sure the bookshelves wouldn’t wobble and sway, I added wood spacers between the shelves, and then molly bolted the bookshelves to the wall behind. Here you can see the topper and the spacers. 
• Third, I added floor molding. To cover any gapping, I first installed a layer of flat MDF board slightly higher than the bookshelf base. I then used finishing nails to attach the crown molding to the MDF board.
• Fourth, I used vertical flat MDF molding to cover the gaps between the shelves and to the bench legs. Here you can see the floor molding and vertical molding — it’s really starting to come together now!
• Fifth, I realized I didn’t like how thin the bookshelf walls were in the middle, so I bought 1.5-inch “fingerboard” to make these a bit wider.

Step 5: Lighting and crown molding

I found these great brushed nickel spotlights at The Home Depot and wanted to make them easy to turn on. The wall plug on the left is connected to my wall switch, so I funneled a long multi-plug up between the frames and onto the top area. I then plugged in all four spotlights and hung them above each of the four vertical panels. 

To help hide the cord, I cut a notch into the top of each vertical panel, and then caulked over it. After all the cords were in, I attached a 6-inch MDF board and added 2-inch crown molding so that the built-in extended to the ceiling. Here you can see the connection between the different moldings and the cord just barely peeking through.

Step 6: Caulk, paint, and shelving 

I’m in awe of what a good coat of white paint can do. After caulking all the gaps, I then used a slightly more expensive white primer and paint to get that extra finished look. 

I still needed to figure out the shelving. After a bit of research, I found that white oak is sturdy, so I bought a 2-inch white oak plank and had it cut to shape at The Home Depot. I was originally going to paint these white, but once I put them in, I loved the different color — so I kept them!

Step 7: Frame the interior 

I thought I was done, and I actually decorated the shelves and left them for more than a month. Here you can see the look — plus my dog, Yogi! 

But there was gapping where the shelving connected to the wall and the top and it really stuck out, so I decided to frame this with 1-inch corner molding. This was a quick, one-hour job — just measure, cut, nail, caulk, and paint.

The results

After finishing the built-in, everyone who has visited has said how much they love it — it’s an immediate conversation starter. Plus, I love surprising them by telling them it’s DIY!

Buck's cool DIY project can be an inspiration to us all. Whether you're skilled in DIY or not, if you've got an awkward wall or space in your home, there's always a solution.

January is literally the perfect time to upgrade your space DIY and if you follow Real Homes, then you're probably not afraid of getting hands-on to make your space beautiful. The best way to give your entire home, or even just bedroom space, a glow-up without going over budget, is to get creative and think outside the box.

This month, we're focusing on small homes, so if you've managed to enhance space in a tiny room or small apartment. Whether you're a total novice or a self-taught pro, we're here for it and no DIY project is too small to celebrate.

What's in it for you? If we love what you've done, we will let you know ASAP and each winner will win $150 (or the equivalent in GBP), and your full project will be featured on realhomes.com and/or exclusively in Real Homes magazine...

How to enter the Real Homes' competition 

Get involved by filling in the form to share a snapshot of the project you'd like to contribute and every month we'll pick up to five lucky winners. The last submissions for this month will be at midnight on January 31st and we will aim to contact winners by the 7th of February.

Please note that we will need a set of basic step-by-step instructions to accompany your submission should you be chosen! This should be roughly 300 words.

Terms and Conditions apply. Good luck!

Terms and conditions

All entries must be submitted via the online entry form. This competition is Open to all residents of the UK and US (excluding residents of Rhode Island, Guam, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, U.S. military installations in foreign countries, or any other U.S. territory where prohibited or restricted by law) aged 18 years and over, except employees of Future Plc and its group of companies (“Future”). 

Entries limited to one per household. Use of automated devices or methods of submission are not valid forms of entry. There will be up to five (5) monthly winners in total each entitled to $150 (or equivalent in GBP) (the “Prize”). By entering your images and / or videos (“Media”) you: (i) confirm that you have the permission of the homeowner to submit the entry; (ii) agree and understand that your surname and county of residence will be published if selected as a winner; (iii) confirm that the Media has not been shared with other home publications  (vi)  grant Future an exclusive right to publish, feature, reproduce and use the Media  in Future’s print and digital media (including social media), in existence now or later invented with credit to you, and (vii) grant Future’s licensees the right to publish content incorporating the Media, providing the publication is in the same context as Future’s use. All photos must be submitted as jpegs at 300dpi. Computer-generated or computer-altered Media will not be accepted. Artwork and illustrations will not be accepted. You must be the sole author and owner of the copyright of all Media entered. Future does not accept any liability for the publication of unlawfully reproduced Media. 

The winners will be selected by members of the Real Home editorial team (the “Judges”) from all valid entries received. Future reserves the right to withhold prizes if, in the opinion of the Judges, the quality of entries falls below the standard required. The Judges’ decision as to the winners is final and no correspondence relating to a competition will be entered. The winners shall be notified by Future by email/telephone within 28 days of being selected and will be required to supply details of a UK or US postal address. Future will deliver the Prize. The Prize is non-transferable. There is no alternative Prize. No purchase required. Void where prohibited. The value of the Prize may be taxable as income and each Prize winner is solely responsible for any taxes, including, but not limited to all applicable federal, state, and local taxes that become due with respect to the value of the Prize. By entering this competition, you agree to be bound by these terms and conditions, the competition rules at: www.futureplc.com/competition-rules/ and collection of personal data in accordance with Future’s privacy policy at: https://www.futureplc.com/privacy-policy/. We reserve the right to amend these terms and conditions or to cancel, alter or amend a competition at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside its control.

The functional benefits of a headboard are well known, whereas the design impact is often overlooked. Don’t sleep on (excuse the pun) the opportunity to elevate your bedroom’s interior scheme with a stunning oversized upholstered headboard that's beautifully simple to DIY if you want to add a touch of designer appeal to your bedroom space.  

Choosing to DIY a headboard is a great idea for a number of reasons. Firstly, your bank balance will thank you for picking up your toolbox as you can save a ton by choosing the DIY route. Secondly, as chief designer you can be as creative as you like with the style and shape, why not recreate that expensive designer headboard you’ve been dreaming about?

1. Design Time

As I mentioned above, you can get creative with a DIY headboard. I opted for a two-part, circular design that was inspired by a fabulous designer brand whose products cost thousands, but you could keep it very simple and straightforward if you prefer. Introducing curves does increase the complexity of cutting out and covering the frame, but with a good jigsaw and a bit of practice, it’s achievable for even a novice DIYer. 

2. Make the base

Measure and mark the outline of the headboard frame onto the wood of your choice. I chose 18mm MDF because it’s a super easy material to work with and provides a strong and stable base for a DIY headboard.

I drew the outline of the circle by attaching a screw to the center point, taping a pen to my tape measure, setting the length of the tape measure to the radius of the circle, clipping the end of the tape measure over the screw and then rotating the body of the tape measure around the circumference of the circle causing the pen to mark the cutting guide as it went. 

Once the circle was drawn, I clamped the MDF down securely and cut out the shape using my jigsaw. 

Once the shape had been neatly cut, it was time to sand the edges of the MDF to ensure a smooth finish. I repeated the process for both parts because my design was formed of two semicircles.

3. Get padding

When the frame is ready, place the wood onto the upholstery foam and draw around it to give a template. Do the same with the wadding/batting, this time leaving an extra few inches all around to allow you to pull it over the edge and attach it to the back later in the process. 

Once you have cut both the foam and the wadding, cut the foam along the outline and place on the frame to check it fits perfectly.

Spray the adhesive onto the MDF and the underside of the foam according to the manufacturer’s guidelines then press the foam down firmly to attach it to the MDF.

Once the adhesive has dried and the foam is firmly attached to the MDF, it is time to stretch the wadding out and wrap it around the base of the headboard. Pull it quite firmly to avoid wrinkles and creases, but not too tightly so that it causes the foam to dent. Fold the wadding over the edge of the MDF and carefully staple it to the back of the headboard. Continue this process all the way around the headboard until you have completed the shape.

4. Cover the headboard

Iron your fabric to ensure it is crease-free then lay it out on the floor. Place the padded headboard base over the fabric and start the process to attach the fabric, you do this in the same way as for the wadding, firmly stretching it to ensure no creases remain then folding over the edge and stapling neatly to the back. Attach the fabric around the whole headboard shape until you are happy it is neat, smooth, and free of imperfections.   

5. Attach to the wall

Once the DIY headboard is complete it’s time to attach it to the wall for safety. I opted for an oversized design for maximum impact, so there was even more reason to ensure it was securely attached. I used similar wall brackets to those you use for kitchen cabinets as they are easy to fit and great at holding heavy items securely in place. 

And there you have it, a DIY headboard in five easy steps!

• With special thanks to eBay UK who supplied the materials, I was able to create this awesome tutorial. 

So, let’s be honest, no one wants to have to outlay a ton of money for washing machine installation at the moment, do they?  But is there another option, I hear you ask, it’s pretty technical, isn’t it? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered and you can learn how to install a washing machine yourself with our handy guide below.  

You’ll only need a few tools and an hour or so.

This guide is the same for an integrated or non-integrated washing machine. For an integrated machine, you will need to install the door once you have finished installing the machine. 

Before you start:

You should at this stage have a spot ready for your washing machine, like in your utility room. The kitchen is often where it's kept in smaller UK homes. You should also have the drain, water supply and a power point located.

These are normally already installed in the space. If they aren’t then I’d recommend speaking with a plumber and an electrician about the best place to install your machine before continuing. 

Step 1: Remove the transit bolts and insert the clips

When your washing machine arrives it will usually come packaged up, with four transit bolts installed in each corner.  You don’t need these transit bolts for installation, they’re simply for transit as their name would suggest. They hold the internal contents of the drum in place. This is because inside the machine there is a large piece of concrete, along with some other parts, that helps the washing machine function. If this moves around in transit then there is a risk that it will damage the machine however once the machine is installed, we want it to move around as this allows the suspension to work and ensures that the drum is cushioned. The main point is that the bolts are only for transit then you can recycle them! 

To remove the bolts twist them with a spanner like this one from Jetech, this will reveal a hole under each bolt (there are usually four, one on each corner of the reverse of the machine). You can then insert the clips (which will have come with the machine) into each hole. These will be small clips that slot into the hole and then spring out to expand and fill the gap, usually you simply push them into place.

Step 2: Adjust the leveling bolts

Washing machines usually have four feet and four leveling bolts which control whether the feet are raised or lowered. There are two at the front and two at the back. The purpose of these feet is to help ensure the appliance sits on the ground properly and is level, however, you need to move them out of the way for installation so that the machine can be easily moved around. Usually, the front feet are already raised up into the machine, but the back are lowered. Using a screwdriver, like this one from AMM adjust the leveling bolts so that they raise up and lift the feet up. This will mean that underneath the machine is now flat and easier to maneuver. 

Step 3: connect the hoses

On the back of your washer, you will have two hoses, one for filling the machine, which you connect to the water supply and the other for the drain. 

To connect the filling hose to the water supply, screw it on with your hand and then tighten it with a spanner. Feed the second hose down into the drainpipe. You need to make sure it gets down to the spot just above the u-bend; it must be far down enough so that it doesn’t flip out when water is pumped through it, but not too far into the u-bend that it will obstruct the water from coming out.

You will find a clip like the one shown in the picture below in your installation kit, this is the tube clip that prevents the tube from coming away once water is pumped through.

Once you have found the ideal spot for the hose, attach the clip to the hose, ensuring it is tucked into the pipe.

Step 4: position your machine, level it and switch on 

Once both hoses are installed, plug your machine in and then slide it into the position you want it to be so that the hoses and power cable are behind it.

Make sure that you don’t trap the hoses when sliding it into place as you may damage or restrict the water flow. Lower the feet and then level your machine. 

Place a level like this one from Amazon basics onto both the side and top of the machine, ensuring that it is level and adjusting the feet and position until it is so that it spins properly. Once you’re happy with the position, you can run a short test wash as per the manufacturer's instructions to ensure it is all working properly. 

Of course, if you have any concerns with installation or run into any problems, pause what you're doing and contact your local plumber. Otherwise, by following these steps along with the washing machine manufacturer's instructions you should have your appliance up and running efficiently in no time at all. 

Make sure you take care of your new appliance too. Keeping a washing machine clean will mean it runs efficiently, making laundry a breeze and increasing its longevity. It's a win-win!

Installing new kitchen cabinets can completely transform a space. Taking it from tired and dated to modern and polished, adding more storage to cater to your household needs also.

Of course, renters' hands are usually tied with this type of home DIY project however, if you've got your own place and want to save some of your budget for other elements of a kitchen remodel, it's worth considering taking a more hands-on approach.

And honestly, it might seem complicated but fitting both wall and base kitchen cabinets can be done with ease, helping you to save on usual kitchen remodel costs in the process.

How to install kitchen cabinets yourself

Bringing your favorite kitchen cabinet ideas to life in your home is easy with a huge range of designs available for DIY fitting.

Measure carefully and approach the job one step at a time to enjoy the satisfaction of upgrading your room, yourself. Real Homes' resident blogger Claire Douglas walks us through the process she took in her own UK home, and we've drawn on some advice from other experts, too.

Note that you should still check the individual manufacturer’s instructions as some designs can vary.

1. Prepare the kitchen

Before you start, it’s important to fix any damage to walls or flooring. You might also want to paint the room accordingly, applying the first coat of paint to the walls and ceiling.

Turn off electricity, gas, and plumbing lines to the kitchen. 

If you are installing kitchen cabinets as part of a full kitchen reno, be sure to allow any fresh plaster to dry fully before you start. 

2. Mark guidelines

Use painter’s tape to mark where the base cabinets will be positioned on the floor. Next, use a level to find the highest spot on the floor. From this spot, mark the cabinet height on the wall and extend it as a line. Allow for the height of flooring if you are installing the cabinets before it is installed.

Measure and mark a line 18 inches (46cm) above this line to show where the bottom of the upper cabinets will be positioned. Make sure not to forget the countertop. ‘Upper cabinets are mounted typically 18 inches above the height of your countertop – so make sure you have accounted for your countertop thickness before setting these,’ says Teri Simone, the chief kitchen designer for Nieu Cabinet Doors.

Then measure up from this line by the height of the upper cabinets. If the cabinets aren’t all the same height, be aware that the tops should all line up.

Locate and mark studs on the walls.

Use painter’s tape to mark where the base cabinets will be positioned on the floor. Next, use a level to find the highest spot on the floor. From this spot, mark the cabinet height on the wall and extend it as a line. Allow for the height of flooring if you are installing the cabinets before it is installed.

Measure and mark a line 18 inches (46cm) above this line to show where the bottom of the upper cabinets will be positioned. Make sure not to forget the countertop. ‘Upper cabinets are mounted typically 18 inches above the height of your countertop – so make sure you have accounted for your countertop thickness before setting these,’ says Teri Simone, the chief kitchen designer for Nieu Cabinet Doors.

Then measure up from this line by the height of the upper cabinets. If the cabinets aren’t all the same height, be aware that the tops should all line up.

Locate and mark studs on the walls.

3. Fit supports for upper cabinet installation

To support the upper cabinets during installation, fit 1 by 2 or 1 by 3 furring strips into the studs below the line marked for the bottom of the wall cabinets. This will support the wall cabinets during installation. Check the support is level.

4. Assemble the cabinets

It’s easiest to assemble cabinets one by one to avoid the parts getting mixed up. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to assemble them. Start with the wall cabinets, which you’ll install first.

To speed up the process, ‘You can also streamline your cabinet installation by ordering your cabinets preassembled, but know that this option is more expensive and is more likely to be damaged during shipment,’ explains Martha McNamara, the head of design at Vevano Home.

5. Install wall cabinets

Our preferred method is to start by fixing the wall cabinets.

Begin with a corner unit, or from the far left if you don’t have a corner unit, and mark the locations of the studs on the back. Drill pilot holes at top and bottom of the cabinet. Repeat for all the upper cabinets.

Set the first cabinet in place on the wall and use the mounting screws to fix it to the wall. However, only tighten them enough to hold it in place for the moment.

Check that the first cabinet is level and plumb and shim behind it if necessary.

6. Continue mounting wall cabinets

Put the second cabinet next to the first, ensuring it is aligned. Hold the cabinets together with clamps and use screws to fix the second cabinet in the same way as the first – that is only tightening the screws sufficiently to hold it in place, and using shims to make it plumb if required.

Connect the upper cabinets using a drill with a countersink twist drill bit and the cabinet screws.

Continue in the same way for the row, making sure to check the cabinet faces and edges are even as well as level as you work. If there’s a gap at the end, use a cabinet fill strip to complete the row.

When the wall cabinets are all in place fully tighten the rear screws, remove the clamps, and remove the support below. Repair any damage to the wall as necessary.

7. Install first base cabinet

Just like with the wall cabinets, start fitting the base cabinets from a corner. Use the marks on the wall to mark the stud locations on the cabinet, then drill holes. Put the first cabinet into position using the horizontal line on the wall as a guide, and check it is level and plumb. You may need to use shims below or at the back. Screw in place, tightening just enough to hold it in place.

8. Continue fitting base cabinets

Drill pilot holes in the back as before and put the second cabinet in position next to the first. Even faces and shim if necessary. Clamp the two cabinets together and screw the second cabinet in to just hold it in place.

Connect the two cabinets as with the wall cabinets. Continue to fit the base cabinets along the wall in the same way. Note that you will need to cut holes for plumbing where the sink will be located.

Use a filler strip if there is a gap at the end, then tighten all the screws and remove the clamps.

9. Fit doors and trim

To finish, fit the cabinet doors, and set drawers into tracks.

Cut and attach the toe kicks. ‘Typically, they'll be 4 inches (10cm) wide, but if your floor is irregular, you may need to cut them narrower,’ says Zac Houghton, CEO of Loftera. ‘For the best results, add a base shoe contoured to fit the floor if there are bad gaps between the toe kicks and the floor.’

Don't forget to peel off the protective coating that usually comes attached to the cabinet fascias, it is often blue as seen in the image above. 

Do you install upper or lower cabinets first?

It can be helpful to fit upper cabinets first, and it’s the order we’d recommend because it is easier to access the wall if the base cabinets aren’t in place. However, the issue isn’t cut and dried.

‘Whether upper or lower cabinets should be installed first is up for debate and depends on circumstance,’ says Ralph Severson, owner of interior remodeling company Flooring Masters. ‘Most cabinet installers prefer to hang wall cabinets first so they may be placed on stands or to make it easier for a coworker to hold them in place. I have also seen the floor cabinets installed first because other work needed to be completed on the walls by other subcontractors.’

Is it hard to install your own cabinets?

Installing kitchen cabinets requires DIY skills of an intermediate level. You don’t need a whole lot of tools, and the cabinets themselves are in essence boxes that need to be screwed to the wall and joined to one another.

What is crucial to success is careful measuring and taking the time to keep everything plumb and level throughout. 

Common questions about installing kitchen cabinets

Douglas shares her wisdom on some general problems you might run into if this is your first time installing kitchen cabinets yourself.

The inner section of the fixing is adjustable so once you have hooked the cabinet onto the hanging bracket you can turn the screws to move the cabinet.

Knowing how to seal a butcher block countertop is crucial to keep the wood looking its best as well as staying hygienic.

Butcher block countertops are a great option for a kitchen, introducing an appealing natural material, but they do need particular care if they’re to stay stain-free, shrug off water, and remain bacteria-free. While it’s important to know how to clean countertops to keep them in good shape, for a counter that lasts and stays looking beautiful for years to come sealing butcher block countertops is a must.

But what is the best finish for butcher block and how should you clean countertops? We reached out to DIY and kitchen experts for all the information you need to know.

How to seal a butcher block

There are a range of products on offer as butcher block sealer. "For sealing the wood you need oil, wax, or varnish," says Michael Rolland, DIY expert, and MD of The Paint Shed. The goal? "Sealing is not the same as painting and is more about protecting the wood than changing its appearance," he says.

There are three types of sealants to use on butcher block countertops: wax, oil and film finish. And, there are two types of oil sealants: evaporating and polymerizing. The best option for your kitchen depends on what you intend to do on the surface. 

How to use oil-based butcher block sealants

No matter which type of oil you choose to use, make sure it’s labeled safe for surfaces that come in contact with food. Also, some oils, like olive and vegetable oil, will go rancid. Avoid using them.

Evaporating oils — An evaporating oil evaporates so it requires more applications than a polymerizing oil. During the initial sealing process, you’ll need to apply many coats. Some woodworkers suggest a coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month, then a coat a month for the first year. After that, twice a year, depending on the amount of use. Examples of evaporating oils include:

• Mineral oil
• Walnut oil
• Coconut oil

Restaurateur Paul Kushner, mixologist and CEO of My Bartender cautions that while mineral oil is easy to use "you will need to reapply it more often, probably once a week. You simply pour oil onto your clean butcher block and rub it into the wood surface until absorbed. It gives the wood a rich finish, and will keep your surface from cracking as the humidity changes," he says.

Polymerizing oils — A polymerizing oil bonds with the wood, clogging the pores, and sealing them. They don’t require as many applications as an evaporating oil, are easier to maintain, and are less likely to stain.

To effectively seal your butcher block with a polymerizing oil, follow this regimen:

• Apply a coat of oil with a soft cloth.
• Wait 15 minutes.
• Buff it in.
• Wait 24 hours and repeat two more times.

Examples of polymerizing oils include:

• Tung oil
• Food-grade linseed oil (Do not use boiled linseed oil. It is toxic.)
• Jojoba oil
• Grape seed oil

We particularly love these oils for sealing a butcher's block countertop:

• The Real Milk Paint Company’s Pure Tung Oil contains a Citrus Solvent rather than harmful VOCs (volatile organic compounds — which according to the EPA, expose people to very high pollutant levels).
• Walrus Oil’s Cabin Walls & Hardwood Floors combines commercial-grade tung oil with perilla seed oil to hasten drying. It’s 100 percent food grade and completely plant-based.
• Howard Cutting Board Oil is food-grade mineral oil enriched with Vitamin E

How to seal butcher block countertops with film finishes

Film finishes like polyurethane, or resin-modified oils contain harmful VOCs which, when emitted as gases, can have some adverse health effects. If you do opt for this type of protectant, always use a VOC-containing film finish in a well-ventilated area and wear personal protective equipment. If you want to use a film finish in your kitchen, most are considered non-toxic when fully cured. But, cutting on it and potentially ingesting bits of finish in your food, is concerning.

That said, there are some pros to choosing a film finish for your butcher block. Unlike filling the pores with oil which repels water, a film finish provides a protective, plastic-like coating which is better at preventing stains. With proper care, a film finish lasts longer and the product doesn’t have to be re-applied, like oils.

To apply a film finish, always start by sanding the surface. Begin with 120-grit sandpaper and work up to 400-grit. Always sand with the grain of the wood, not forgetting the edges. Once it’s as smooth as glass, apply the finish following the manufacturer’s directions.

• Waterlox Original Sealer Finish is a resin-modified tung oil/mineral spirits product that is food-safe and non-toxic when cured.
• Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac is easy to clean and cures to create a non-toxic finish.
• Polyurethane gives your countertop a plastic-like coating that’s preferred for heavy water exposure, like around sinks.

How to seal butcher block countertops with wax finishes

Wax can give butcher block countertops a pleasing appearance, and might be preferable for some woods. "If you have hard, ingredient-rich, oily, and dark wood surfaces such as cedar or mahogany then a wax may be a better choice," says DIY expert Michael Rolland. Apply according to instructions.

Natural waxes, like this beeswax for countertops from Amazon, are food-safe, non-toxic, and don't contain any harmful VOCs. Plus, it's less greasy than mineral oil, making it easier to apply and longer-lasting.

Simply rub the wax into the countertop with a cleaning cloth, like one of these microfiber cloths from Amazon. 

Other things to consider when sealing your butcher block

• Choose one type of finish or the other. Mixing a film finish with oil creates a mess. And, if you want to refinish an older butcher block with a different type of finish, you will need to completely remove the old one.
• Some products mix beeswax with oil. The wax helps the wood to repel water better than oil alone. These finishes are applied just like an oil finish.
• Food-safe status isn’t reached until the product is totally cured, which takes about 30 days, on average. Just because the surface is dry doesn’t mean it’s ready for contact with food.
• To prevent stains, always remove food waste promptly, wash the countertop with a hot soapy cloth, and towel dry.

FAQs

Knowing how to seal butcher's block countertops can seem overwhelming, but once you take note of the expert-approved tips above, the process should feel far simpler.  To keep your counters looking their best, Just make sure that you know how to clean butcher's block countertops without damaging them. 

Building a range hood was always a part of this plan from the beginning. It took us quite a while to get to it and didn’t seem urgent because we did have a functional kitchen. 

I really craved charm in this space and knew that adding a custom range hood and shelving would really give us the cozy farmhouse kitchen look we were going for.

• DIY skill level: Intermediate

This DIY requires power tools and precision but if you're up to the challenge, it's totally worth trying because you'll fall in love with the results.

Selecting the right hood vent for your space

The first thing I did was order the hood vent. It needed to be “ductless” because we did not have venting running to the outside prior to this build, so we chose this MCBON Range Hood Insert in Stainless Steel as you could select ductless as an option. 

A ductless vent will have a filter that needs to be changed periodically. Ours can be changed by unscrewing the face plate, but make sure that whatever vent you order you can have access to the filter through the hood.

Custom fitting

I built a 2x4 frame using the actual vent as a guide so it would be a snug, custom fit. I added a 2x4 support in the back of the frame in order to secure it to studs in the kitchen wall.

I measured the halfway point in our rangetop and placed the frame for the hood exactly in the center of that on the wall so it would be pleasing to the eye. I considered the distance from the hood to the cooking surface before I built the frame. The recommendation is 24-30” of clearance. Our hood is hung 30” from the cooktop.

Constructing the range hood cover

There are plenty of ways to go about covering your range hood from plaster to tile, to wood. We wanted a rustic farmhouse vibe so we went with tongue-and-groove pine boards. 

I cut the boards to size to wrap around the hood using my brad nailer – the Ryobi One+ 18 Volt Cordless AirStrike 18-Gauge Brad Nailer is a good choice, you should see the Real Homes review! 

I started in the exact center with my first board and worked my way out, checking to make sure they were level before nailing to the frame. For the corners, I ran the 2 cut board through my table saw at a 45 degree angle so the corner would have a seamless mitered edge.

Working on the backsplash

When the hood was paneled I began working on the backsplash using the same material as the hood. I started the first board on the wall lined up with the board on the hood. Using construction adhesive and brad nails I nailed into the wall behind the cooktop. These tongue-and-groove boards are what I used as paneling for my backsplash on two kitchen walls as well.

Installing the trim

When the paneling was complete, I installed the trim on the hood range. I used a 1-¼” brick molding to trim the bottom of the range hood and this 4” molding for the top. I continued with the same molding at the top of the hood and ran it throughout the kitchen cabinets as well.

The last thing I wanted to add was a shaker peg shelf on each side of the hood to go between the cabinets. I made these using scrap wood I had in my garage. I used 1x4 and 1x3 mdf cut to size, as well as two corbels.

I glued these together and set them in my pipe clamps overnight to dry. I then hung them between the hood and cabinet on both sides and installed three shaker pegs to each shelf. I caulked every last edge and seam on this backsplash and trim on the range hood in preparation for paint.

Painting your hood cover

The final thing to do is paint! I applied a coat of primer to the raw wood panels on the hood and the backsplash and then used Sherwin Williams trim enamel paint in the color Aesthetic White on the backsplash. The range hood was painted the same color as the cabinets, Shiitake by Sherwin Williams.

The final results

I love how this project turned out! I couldn’t be happier with our now complete and cozy farmhouse kitchen.

Cost breakdown:

• Vent hood/filter $350
• 2x4 x3 $15
• t&g boards x25 $250
• Liquid nails x2 $5
• Trim $118
• Corbels $38
• Pegs $10
• Caulk x2 $12
• Primer/paint $125

The total cost of this project for me came to $923 which isn't made for the beautiful results, if I do say so myself. And to buy and have a range hood like this installed by a store would cost well into the $1000s so it's a really worthwhile DIY project if you feel up to the challenge!

All too often, radiators are forgotten and wind up being plain old white or, a little flaky and unfinished which isn't exactly inspiring! But what if we told you that painting radiators is a viable option? And one that when done well, will add an extra dimension to a room?

Not only are radiators a sound type of heating for your home but by pairing up their look and color with the rest of your interior design scheme, you can give your space a mini makeover, without a whole lot of effort (or budget). 

What's more, you can either paint a radiator on the wall, or before you fit it. The latter is definitely easier but on the wall is totally doable too.

Is it a good idea to paint radiators?

As easy as it may be to learn how to paint a radiator yourself, you need to get some key details right including: what paint to use, what paint not to use and the best working conditions for safety. 

It's a great idea decor-wise, so long as you pick the right paint for the job and that you prime your radiators properly if they need it, to protect their efficiency. Daniel Nezhad, director at UK Radiators, says 'It may sound hard to believe but painting your radiator can affect its heat output. The main relationship between painting your radiator and its efficiency is to do with the type of radiator paint rather than the colour. Some studies show that darker colours can increase your radiator’s efficiency but this is only by an extremely small amount (we’re talking around 1 percent).  The real factor to consider is the kind of radiator paint you use.'

How to paint a radiator

When it comes to actually painting radiators properly, there are quite a few steps. The key again is to not skip on prep and priming. You will need the following materials:

1. Choose the right paint for the job

Decide on the look you want and then choose the most suitable paint. 'You need to opt for a specially formulated radiator paint that will be able to withstand constant temperature changes without damaging the integrity or quality of the paint.' Says Nezhad.

Crown Paints recommend to 'Look for any paint designed for wood or metal such as gloss, satin or eggshell.' 

'It has been shown that a radiator coated with metallic paint will emit less heat, under otherwise identical conditions, than a similar radiator coated with non-metallic paint. It can affect the efficiency of your radiator to the point where using a metallic-based paint is the same as removing 1/6th of the radiator!' Continues Nezhad.

For this DIY, Rutland's, Black Rutland 1200-Degree F Brush-On Flat Stove Paint is a good option if you want a chic black finish.

2. Turn off your radiator

For safety and for better painting conditions, you need to switch off your radiator completely and ideally leave it to cool down overnight. '...if your radiator is still warm, the paint will drip and not adhere to the radiator’s surface very well.' Notes Nezhad.

3. Prepare the area

If you're a savvy DIYer you may want to take your radiator off the wall completely. Do do so:

• Turn off your heating
• Turn off the radiator valves. Firstly, turn the thermostatic valve (an example is in the photograph above) to zero or off (this will be the valve that has a knob on it that you can turn to 'off'). Then, on the other side (known as your lock shield valve, an example is in the photograph below), remove the cap and locate the small spindle inside. Turn it to clockwise using a screwdriver or a wrench until it is closed.  A good tip is to count the number of turns you make and note them down then use the same number to open it. This will help you get the radiator back up to the same pressure when you put it back on
• Place towels and a bowl beneath your radiator valves to catch any running water (be sure they are old towels you no longer care about as they may get ruined if the water is gunky)
• Gently loosen the valves and with a wrench, drain the water from the radiator
• Once the water is drained, you can disconnect the radiator by loosening the nuts and lifting it off the brackets. Once it is disconnected then tilt it to one side to drain any remaining water into your bowl or bucket

However, if this isn't an option for you, you don't need to remove the radiator and you can still paint it while it's attached to the wall. You just need to protect the wall behind it which you can do with painter's tape, some paper taped behind it or a cardboard sheet. You should lay dust sheets like this one from Heyjiong down for both methods also to protect the floor. 

4. Prepare and repair the radiator

If you're painting an old radiator with flaking paint, you may have to strip and sand it down. 'When it comes to stripping your radiator, any paint stripper is fine to use, and the aim is to remove any layers of paint that are currently on your radiator. Be careful when scraping the paint off that you don’t damage the original structure of your radiator. This step will make the application of your new paint easy and smooth.' Notes Nezhad. 'The radiator needs to be sanded down to ensure that the surface is smooth and ready to be painted on. It’s recommended to use two different grades of sandpaper like this from Arilier so that you can achieve a smooth finish that removes bumps and imperfections of any size.'

5. Clean your radiator

You'll need to wipe your radiator down completely, if your radiator isn’t in too poor of a condition, you could just use a sponge, warm water and mild detergent to get rid of dust (we know you have some!) and dirt. If it needs a little more TLC then you can use sugar soap as it is slightly abrasive and will remove any last little bits of old paint flakes. Be sure to wipe the radiator down once you have finished with the sugar soap. 

Whether you manage to strip the old radiator paint or not, the most important part is to make sure that you have a clean, dry, flake and grease-free surface to paint on. It is best to wait a little once you have cleaned it, to make sure it is properly dry. 

6. Paint the radiator

You can prime the radiator before painting, but actually, not all radiator paint requires priming so check your radiator paint before you decide.

You can paint your radiator with either a roller like this one from Foam Pro or a brush like this one from Amazon (or you can combine; brushes are useful for getting into grooves whereas rollers are useful for painting broad, flat sections). If you like, you can even use spray paint. If you leave the radiator on the wall and want to paint the back then you will need a special brush to reach those tricky areas like this one from Nge. 

To use a brush, don't overload it is the best tip! Start with the inner edges, moving onto the face of the radiator. By working in smaller sections you'll get a more precise finish. Take your time, painting the front moldings from the top, then from the bottom before pulling your paintwork together. Finish off with the front edges, working your way across the entire radiator. You can paint into and from already painted sections using sweeping actions to ensure it's even. 

You can combine your brush with a small roller on the flat parts if you like which can speed things up a little. If you use a roller then be sure not to overload it and make sure you give the roller a little roll in the tray before applying it to the radiator to remove excess paint and avoid any dripping. Allow at least an hour to ensure that your paint is fully dry before applying another coat. 

If you fancy trying your hand at spray painting a radiator instead, follow these steps:

• Make sure you put more dust sheets down than normal and make sure that the room is well ventilated;
• Shake the spray paint like this one from Rustoleum can well (for around 2 minutes)
• Hold the can 20 to 30 centimeters away from the radiator and spray in a sweeping motion, covering the whole radiator 
• Wait 30 minutes for the coat to dry and then spray again. Usually, spray paint will need three coats for full coverage.

7. Let it dry

As we mentioned above, let the radiator dry in between coats. Because you are using a special radiator paint it may look patchy after the first one but don't worry, the paint will build up nicely over two or three coats. 

When you have finished, you need to let your paint fully dry before turning the heating on. Nezhad recommends waiting at least a day for precise results, 'Once painted do not turn your radiator straight back on, you will need to leave it to dry for at least 24 hours to avoid peeling or dripping.'

What colors are best to paint a radiator?

Depending on your radiator of course, you might want to make more of a statement, and highlight yours in contrasting colors. If you take a more minimal approach to decorating, then you can alternatively paint them in a complementary shade. Either way, painting radiators has become a really popular home DIY, follow the step-by-step and you'll get a great finish.

DIY done!

When we moved into our current house, all of the doors – interior and exterior – had tarnished brass door knobs and hinges that had seen better days. One of the first doors we decided to update was the one leading out to our backyard. We started by giving the door a fresh coat of gray paint. Next, it was time to change out the hardware. The process is an easy one, you just need to follow a few simple instructions to complete this DIY project successfully. 

1. Remove the old door knob

The first step is to remove the old door knob. Sometimes it’s not immediately obvious how to do this if the screws aren’t on the front base of the knob. If this is the case, look on the bottom of the knob to see if there is a small screw underneath that needs to be removed. Otherwise, unscrew the screws from the base plate of the door knob and pull the knob out. The other side should easily pull out. 

2. Select a new door knob

When selecting a new door knob, there are a few things to consider. You’ll need to decide what finish you want for the new knob. They come in a variety of finishes including black, oil-rubbed bronze, gold, and nickel. Once you’ve decided on a finish, you’ll need to choose a style. There are plenty of styles out there, including round, oval, square, and bars.

You’ll also need to select the correct type of door knob depending on whether it'll be an interior or exterior piece of hardware. Then you’ll need to decide whether you want a lock for the door knob or not. Most interior door knob packages are labeled for closets, bedrooms, and bathrooms. For our door, we needed an exterior door knob and the style we chose was round. We decided to go with a black door knob for contrast against the gray door.

3. Install the door knob

Now you’re ready to install the door knob. Start by removing it from the packaging and locating the latch. Insert the latch into the hole in the side of the door. Place the metal latch plate over the part of the latch that is protruding from the side of the door. Screw the metal plate in place using a screwdriver or drill.

Next, take the exterior knob with the tumbler and fit it into the door latch. Like a puzzle piece, there is only one way to insert it so you'll know when it’s right. If your door knob has a face plate that’s not attached to the knob, you may need to install it first before fitting the knob into the latch. 

Next, locate the interior knob and fit it into the other side. Using the screws included in the package, place them in the holes on either side of the knob and screw them into the plate.

4. Installing the strike plate

Now you’re ready to install the strike plate into the door frame. Holding the plate in place, insert the top screw and use a drill or screwdriver to drive it in place. Repeat with the bottom screw.

Exterior door dead bolt

If you’re installing an exterior door knob, you’ll also need to install the dead bolt. The process looks much the same. First you will insert the latch in the door and install the latch plate. You’ll locate the exterior keyway and fit it into the latch. Next, you will locate the interior bolt and fit it to the other side of the door. Use the provided screws to screw it into place. Finally, install the strike plate into the door frame. 

Installing a door knob is definitely a job you can do yourself with just a few steps and a screwdriver or drill. You’ll be amazed at how great your doors look by simply adding some new hardware. Go ahead and give your doors the update they need and enjoy a fresh new look by following the steps above! If they need a total refresh, I'd recommend you painted your doors first and then swapped out the hardware.

If you want to add more personality to blank walls, learning how to install a floating shelf is a good move. Not only are floating shelves practical for a little extra storage if you live in a small home, but they'll add plenty of visual interest to your space too.

Whether you're hanging yours in a living room, bedroom, or even hallway, as I did for this DIY project, you need to consider the style you want but also the wall type you're working with. It may be drywall, masonry, plasterboard, or another material, so evaluate what you're working with to ensure you have all the materials needed to make this a simple and stress-free job.

How to install a floating shelf step by step

As when hanging a shelf with brackets, you want to check the construction of your wall first, as this will determine what type of fixing you need to use and will ultimately impact which shelf you choose to buy. For a solid brick or masonry wall, you will need wall plugs. Plasterboard or drywall will do best with worm-style fixings/drywall anchor plugs.

1. Choosing your floating shelf

There are lots of types of floating shelf styles out there. I chose a gorgeous solid wood shelf from eBay for a rustic finish. It's heavy, so I had to consider that and decided to install it on a masonry wall. 

Amazon has lots of floating shelf options too if you prefer a style similar to what's in our video.

Make sure when selecting your floating shelf that you have the right brackets and wall plugs. My shelf came with all the fixings and instructions, so that was super useful.

If you're working with drywall, resident Real Homes' blogger and DIY guru Claire Douglas recommends: 'When working with drywall, you should always find and use the studs to attach shelves to as this is the safest and most secure method, however, if your shelf is very shallow and only displaying light items like pictures then you might be ok with the appropriate fixings for your wall type.'

2. Ensure the wall is free of cables and pipes

Before drilling any holes, run over the area with your digital detector to check it’s free of any pipes and cables and to mark up any studs using your pencil. This might mean that you have to choose a different wall, but it's important you do not skip this step for safety reasons.

3. Measure up and mark out your fixings

Hold the shelf bracket on the wall at the height you want. Make sure it is straight using your level. Then, using a pencil, mark the fixing hole positions. 

Triple check your pencil markings are straight with a level and in line with the fixing holes in your shelf. 

Now is the time, if not already done, to prep the area with a dust sheet. Put on your eye protection and a dust mask, especially if you're drilling into brick. 

Use a counterpunch/screwdriver and your hammer to make a small dent in the center of each mark where you'll be drilling. This will help stop your drill or screwdriver from slipping. 

4. Drilling

This step may differ depending on the shelf you are using and the wall material you are mounting it onto. I used a drill and wall plugs to mount my shelf, and if you have the same set up, you'll want to mark up the length needed for each wall anchor on your drill bit. I was drilling 10mm holes so I marked this off with my painter's tape. This'll prevent you from drilling too deep.

Then drill a hole in the center of each pencil mark. It takes a while with brick but go steady, keeping your drill straight.

Note: If you are using drywall anchor plugs (the worm-style fixing as seen in our video), cover the marks in tape to stop plaster cracking and screw in your fixings.

5. Fix your brackets in the wall

This all depends on your shelf. With all the holes drilled into the wall, you can tap in your wall plugs with a hammer. Then, you can screw on the bracket. 

I had bars to screw in with a washer over the threaded section of the plugs.

If your fitting is similar to the video's, using either a drill or a screwdriver, insert the screws where they are required, making sure the bracket is tight to the wall. 

6. Slot the shelf onto the bracket

Next, you can put your shelf into position, securing it onto the bracket(s). Often, you'll find that the underside of the shelf will have fixings where you can insert screws to ensure the shelf doesn’t slide off the bracket.

I ran mine in line with the two bars, slid it in, and tapped it gently toward the wall with my hammer for a snug fit. And, there you have it.

Styling tips for a floating shelf

Now, for the best part: dressing your floating shelves. Adding a fun print, cute indoor plant, and your favorite candle makes for a simple but styled finish.

Francesca Sannino, the senior home and garden category manager at eBay UK, notes how floating shelves offer up a great opportunity for decorative open storage. 'Floating shelves are a great place to start if you are new to DIY and a fun way to get creative with storage,' says Sannino. 'We appreciate not all walls and needs are the same, which is why being able to buy bespoke length and width wooden planks is so important.'

Additionally, Sannino adds: 'Mixing and matching varying shelf lengths also allows for a fun aesthetic, and lets you play around with how you display frames, plants, books, or whatever else you might be putting on them.' 

The terracotta pot is from eBay as is the Sorrento print and frame. There are so many listings to browse, making it easy to recreate your favorite shelving ideas whatever your style or budget.

If your hanging shelf and wall type can take the weight, adding books and bookends like these marble ones can look very aesthetically pleasing. Trailing plants add a little volume too, which is ideal if your floating shelf is solo like mine. I haven't been able to keep trailing plants alive, so this one is actually a faux pick from Abigail Ahern.

The marble bookends are another eBay find, as is the cute candle. This one is LUX LUZ Fresh fig but you can find similar.

How do floating shelves work?

'Floating shelves use concealed supports that give the effect of the shelf floating while still being securely fixed in place,' elaborates Douglas. 'There are different methods available the most common are strong metal rods that go into both the wall and the shelf providing a secure platform, or mounting brackets which fix flush to the wall and have rod(s) that go into the shelf itself. The longer the shelf is, the more rods you need.'

There are various looks that these units can provide too. 'Narrow picture shelves give the effect of floating and use wall anchors and screws to attach to the wall,' says Douglas. 'These typically hold less weight than "proper" floating shelves, as they are designed for displaying pictures.'

Is it hard to install a floating shelf?

Installing a floating shelf can be a simple DIY, but if you're brand new to tackling these projects, choose your shelf accordingly and know that drilling into masonry is not for the faint-hearted. If you don't feel so confident, consider a lighter shelf that you can position on a plasterboard wall, as that should be easier to drill into. Then, choose a floating shelf with brackets that run across a rod, that way you won't need to install them separately, which will take a little pressure off when it comes to measuring up.

Can you put up floating shelves without drilling?

Putting any type of shelf up without drilling is possible but these can only hold very lightweight items. When it comes to floating shelves, this is even harder because they have a tendency to slant or lean if the internal brackets aren't stable.

Douglas adds, 'I have seen very narrow picture shelves (7-8cm deep) stuck to the wall with no more nails, which works if only very light items are displayed on them but would you want the worry that they might fall down? It’s really not advisable to use glue for shelving.'

She also notes that the proper brackets and fixings are essential for having a sturdy shelf situation.

If you rent (like me), check you are allowed to add this kind of shelving or be prepared to fill the holes and paint over any marks when you leave so that you get your deposit back. Otherwise, I have actually installed these Command Display Floating Ledges and they have held strong for over a year now. All I have on them are some photographs and a very small Diptyque candle, so I have fully respected their weight restrictions and it works. I love the look, and they add a little dimension to what was a blank corner of my very white-walled bedroom.

• With special thanks to eBay UK for the collaboration.

Fall is one of the most beautiful seasons and with so much color and texture all around, it's only natural to want to bring it into your home, These DIY fall wreaths are simple to craft and the perfect way to add seasonal decor to your home.

Hang your creation alongside shop-bought fall wreaths from a mantle for an enhanced display, while these will all look great outside on a porch also. 

Layer the look to enhance any other fall decor buys and you'll wow guests all season long. Whether you want to use fresh or dried foliage, mini gourds or even wooden beads for a contemporary finish, there will be an autumnal DIY wreath to suit your home. 

DIY fall wreath ideas 

What's cool about making your own decor is that you can tap into the latest fall home trends or, stick to the classics.

Cozy up over a weekend or on a chilly weeknight and enjoy trying out these simple autumnal crafts.

If you're on a budget don't fear, we have something for everyone and as we're not far from holiday season you can re-use your wreath base for a festive DIY Christmas wreath design in a few months time. 

1. White gourd wooden wreath

This subtle fall wreath is perfect if the classic shades of the season aren't for you. Its natural colors suit a more pared-back scheme and it has a Scandi feel. Pick up your supplies and follow the tutorial by Cara & Co .

You will need:

• 30-35 25mm beech wood hexagon beads
• Approximately 12 felt balls 
• 16 inch wood wreath ring
• Faux greenery and accent pumpkins
• Hot glue gun and sticks
• Length of ribbon
• Wire and wire cutters

2. Crocheted floral wildlife wreath 

For something completely different for your indoor fall mantel display or to hang on a bare wall, this charming DIY fall wreath is made entirely from crocheted flowers and animals. I mean, how adorable is the sleeping fox and mouse? You can add on as many elements as you like, there are toadstools, pumpkins, acorns, sunflowers and fall leaves to choose from, or use them all. Find the tutorial created by @sewing_the_seeds_of_love at Hobbycraft.

You will need: 

• Rattan wreath 40cm (16inch)
• Crochet cotton yarn 0.88 oz (25g) in the following colors – a good bargain buy would be this assorted colors pack that covers a ton of cool autumnal colors including brighter bursts like tangerine and aqua for a vibrant finish. 
• Crochet yarn 1.76oz (50g) in the following colors – this selection from Amazon would work well, it includes natural, yellow, lilac and cream. 
• Crochet hook 3.5mm 
• Soft toy filling 200g
• Yarn hand needles

3. Fern, dried fruit and floral wreath

This is a really good wreath for anyone on a budget and you can use foraged stems from walks or your backyard. If you know how to dry flowers already you can use them and the fruit slices can be bought or you could try your hand at drying oranges yourself using an oven or even your air fryer...

This is a clever transitional wreath that can be adapted from fall to the holiday season too with some simple additions nearer the festive period. Find the full tutorial at Hobbycraft.

You will need:

• A hot glue gun and sticks
• Kraft brown jute twine
• Dried apple slices or your orange slices
• Fern: faux or real
• Lichen 
• Dried flower heads

4. Simple Fall Hoop Wreath

Make this in just a half hour to add a gilded touch to your interiors or to the exterior of your home! You just need to pick up the following supplies to make your DIY simple gold fall hoop wreath and you're golden (excuse the pun).

You will need:

• Gold hoop wreath: Amazon has lots of options and sizes
• Two fall floral stems
• Mini pumpkins
• Floral wire and cutters
• Hot glue gun: Ryobi One's Cordless hot glue gun is a Real Homes favorite

5. Split Wood Bead Wreath

This split wood bead wreath is one of the more contemporary fall wreath DIYs that still lends itself to creating an autumnal feel that's close to nature, around the home. 

Pick up your supplies and craft it yourself on an afternoon with a hot chocolate in hand and perhaps as you tackle other DIY fall decorating ideas too.

You will need:

• 16 - 2 1/2" Unfinished split wood beads: Amazon is an easy choice!
• Cardboard wreath frame
• Fall floral sprigs and greenery
• Faux mini pumpkins from Amazon or The Home Depot
• Rub 'N Buff paint brush
• Floral wire and cutters
• Hot glue gun like Ryobi One's Cordless hot glue gun

6. Classic floral and foliage fall wreath

A classic floral fall wreath like this make, courtesy of Bloom & Wild , is plentiful of burnt orange florals, red berries and delicate foliage. This will work so well outside to make an entry to any houseguest around Thanksgiving and even Halloween. Gather your supplies and follow the 3-step tutorial.

You will need:

• Oasis naturebase biofoam ring
• Flowers
• Autumn foliage (head to the park people)
• Gold spray paint
• Floral scissors 
• Twine or ribbon to hang

7. Pinecone wreath

This 30-minute pinecone wreath uses all of the best of nature and will cost less than $15 to DIY. Pick up some basic supplies and craft it with the kids for a cute autumn craft.

You will need:

• Twig wreath: this grapevine/natural wreath from Amazon is a nice option.
• Pinecones: from your yard or you can find them online.
• 3. Hot glue gun/glue sticks: Ryobi has good options at The Home Depot.
• 4. Ribbon (optional).

8. Painted wood fall wreath

If you want a different take on DIY fall wreaths altogether, and if you have leftover wood rounds, consider this DIY rustic wood fall wreath make that lets you get a little more creative with different colors and signage, to suit your taste.

You will need:

• Round wood piece
• Stain (optional)
• Paint & a paintbrush
• Painter’s tape from Amazon is fine
• Stencil or metal wording
• Fall florals & floristry wire
• Hot glue gun and sticks: We rate the Ryobi One cordless 18V that's available at The Home Depot also.
• A Cricut can come in useful for stencils or, pick up some basic letter stencils from Amazon.

How do you decorate a wreath in the fall?

The beauty of DIY fall wreaths is that they can be styled in so many different ways whether you're filling yours with foliage, painted tiny pumpkins or fresh florals. 

When it comes to displaying yours, the classic option is to hang a wreath from a door.

When it comes to styling, consider adding pumpkins and ghouls to the mix for Halloween, leaving yours as is for Thanksgiving or, adding lights plus holly and more evergreens for an easy transition into Christmas.

Need to know how to unclog a toilet without a plunger? We've all been there. An overflowing toilet is one of the most unpleasant and stressful plumbing problems you'll face. Fortunately, though, it's also typically easy to fix yourself without needing to call out a plumber and half the time you won't need to break a sweat. 

Learning how to unclog a toilet is something that most people can master and it shouldn't require any specialist tools, although a plunger and/or plumbing snake are always useful to have somewhere in your toolbox just in case. However, even if you don't have one, or anything in your home that seems suitable, you can unblock a toilet without tools in a few simple steps using what you already have in your kitchen cupboard. Here's how. 

How to unclog a toilet without a plunger

Fortunately, there is more than one way to fix this common plumbing issue even without a plunger. Allison Harrison, co-owner of Goodbee Plumbing, a plumbing company serving the greater New Orleans area, tells us that 'There are several workarounds if you need to unclog a toilet but don’t have a plunger. Some popular methods include using dish soap to lubricate the clogged pipe or pieces of a cut up hand soap, using hot, but not boiling water, using a wire hanger as a snake to prod the debris, or using a baking soda and vinegar mixture.' 

Here's how to use these methods in a bit more detail.

1. Try dishsoap or shampoo

This is the simplest method that works with most smaller clogs. Essentially, you're trying to get whatever is clogging your toilet to stick to a thick, lubricating substance. Harrison advises starting with 'dish soap or even shampoo. Then add in a gallon of hot water and then try flushing.'

Never use boiling water, as it can crack the porcelain. This same procedure can be used if your toilet is overflowing and you do not have a plunger.'

2. Use bleach

If dish soap and hot water didn't do the trick, you will have to bring out the bleach. Pour no more than one cup of bleach into your toilet 'followed by powdered dishwashing soap. Again, be sure to wait 10 minutes before flushing.'

Bear in mind that 'this method is very harsh on pipes, so only use it when necessary.'

3. Use a wire coat hanger

An old method that still works at a pinch, the coat hanger unblocking method is great if you really need to get in deep to unclog a toilet and nothing else will work. 'first, unravel the hanger and wrap one end with a rag and taping it to keep it in place. Next, push the covered end into the toilet and work to remove whatever is clogging the drain.'

Top tip: Don't use this method for overflowing toilets as you could seriously mess up your entire bathroom with the overflowing water going everywhere. 

4. Try cling film

This is a lesser-known toilet-unclogging method that can work well for toilets with high water.  Tom Drake, bathroom expert at Tap Warehouse, suggests the following steps:

1. First, dry out the top of the toilet using paper towels. You might want to wear a pair of gloves for this! 

2. Next, add 3 layers of cling film to the top of your toilet. You'll need to press the cling film down fairly firmly in order to create a seal. 

3. You can now flush the toilet. At this point, the pressure caused by the flush should cause the cling film to balloon upwards. 

4. Push down gently on the ballooned cling film. This will reverse the suction caused by the flush which should dislodge the blockage in a similar way to a plunger.

5. Use baking soda and vinegar

Still no luck, or don't have any bleach? We often use vinegar and clean with baking soda, they are so handy to keep in your cupboard. Drake advises pouring 'half a cup of baking soda into the toilet bowl followed by half a cup of white vinegar. Next, pour two liters of hot (not boiling) water to help aid the reaction. 

'Leave the mixture to work for 30 minutes and come back to check if the level of the water has returned back to normal. If it has, the blockage has cleared and you can flush it as normal.'

6. Get hands-on

If you've tried hot water and flushed the toilet once but the blockage has remained, your next option should be to don rubber gloves and see if you can deal with the blockage by hand. That might range from hooking out the toy your child has stuffed down there to lifting out excessive clumps of toilet paper they've used into a waiting plastic bag. We hate to say it, but it might also mean taking an old knife to a large (let's call it 'organic', sounds better) deposit and slicing it up a little. Try the flush again, and keep your fingers crossed.

7. Try caustic soda (with caution)

To unblock a toilet with caustic soda, ensure your eyes and hands are protected as it can extremely damaging if it comes into contact with either. Then pour the caustic soda into the toilet bowl, leave for two minutes (but always check the manufacturer's instructions for full details). Follow with a bucket of hot water from the kettle or hot tap. Flush the toilet, then give it a clean.

8. Unblock a toilet with water pressure

If all of the above fail to work, you could try breaking up the blockage using water pressure. For this you will need a pressure washer and a pipe cleaning kit to connect to it. Insert the hose into the toilet bowl, switch on the pressure washer and you will see the hose will be pulled down the pipe until it reaches the blockage. If the blockage can be broken down, the water pressure will do this. Again, don't do this if you have a toilet with a macerator – it might be that the toilet is not blocked, just won't flush because there's something caught around the mechanism.

9. Use a toilet snake

Jake Romano, Project Manager at Mississauga, Ontario's John The Plumber recommends using a 'Toilet snake (aka toilet auger)' as an alternative method to unclogging the toilet with a plunger. 'You stick the long coil into the drain and maneuver it through the toilet to dislodge whatever is stuck. Some toilet snakes are 3', and can maneuver through only the toilet – while others are 6' and can manoeuvre through the toilet and the first bit of toilet drains.'

He says that 'if you're uncomfortable at this step, call a professional drain cleaner. What you need to do is unbolt the toilet, remove it, use drain cleaning equipment, clear the blockage, replace the wax seal, and reinstall the toilet. It's a bit of a process, but this will almost always fix a blockage.'

The RIDGID K-3 3-Foot Toilet Auger Snake in stainless steel from Amazon is a good investment for this kind of job.

'Be very careful when inserting the snake into the toilet. It's super easy to scratch the porcelain,' he adds.

How do you unclog a toilet when water is high?

Harrison reminds homeowners that 'when trying to unclog a toilet when the water is high, be sure to first manually remove some water so that there is space for you to add in any other substances.' Avoid dumping chemicals down a toilet with high water as that could ruin your entire bathroom and even cause injury, especially if you are using bleach. 

Does an overflowing toilet unclog itself?

That depends on the type of clog you have. Harrison explains that 'over time, a toilet will typically clear itself since most things that clog are water-soluble, but if it is not a water-soluble material, it will not fix itself.'

How can I unclog my toilet without a plunger or hot water?

See the wire coat hanger method if your toilet isn't overflowing. If it's overflowing, always remember to manually remove excess water first; then, go in with the bleach or vinegar. 

Installing under cabinet lighting is a no-brainer to illuminate countertops and create a cool, modern look in your kitchen.

Whether you're about to install new kitchen cabinets yourself or are looking for a quick way to brighten up your cooking space, adding LED or another type of lighting under cabinets is a great option to complement overhead kitchen ceiling lights.

Although installing under cabinet lighting sounds super complicated and a little overwhelming, it’s actually pretty simple when you're using LEDs, and more specifically, bar lighting like I did. 

Choosing your under cabinet lighting

When you're installing under cabinet lighting yourself, there are a number of different types of light that you can go with, here I wanted to use plug-in bar lights, so I picked this ASD LED Linear Under Cabinet Lighting 24 inch from Amazon.

These kind of lights won't break the bank, and you won't need to do any wiring or drilling, ideal if you rent. You can get this job done with just a few tools and depending on how adept you are at DIY, you could do it in thirty minutes flat.

The process for installation is for the other types of under cabinet LED lighting is pretty similar but some may require drilling, so that's up to you and the look you want to achieve for your kitchen cabinets and entire space!

Here’s a rundown of the other options:

Tape or strip lighting 

Tape or strip lights like these by Wobane are essentially a thin, tape-like strip of LED lights. They can usually just plug in and then stick to the cabinet via clips or double-sided tape. The positives are that they are cheap, malleable, easy to install, energy efficient. Plus, they don’t really give off heat and they are super discreet.

However, they aren’t very bright or impactful so if you’re looking for statement under cabinet lighting, keep looking my friend. Plus, once one diode goes, then the whole thing needs replacing.

Round, disc or puck lights

They are circular frames with an LED light in the center, they are often available as battery-operated or remote control and with the ability to stick to a surface. These from BLS Wireless Dimmable LED Puck Lights from Amazon are a good example and they come with a remote.

They are a great option if you want something durable and easy to install or uninstall (ideal for renters), they’re low cost with a ton of style and light variations available, plus the light is brighter than strip lights. They do produce a circular light, like a spotlight and so they’re trickier to get right in terms of placement and can look uneven if you don't install them with the correct spacing. 

If you’re using the type that is fixed in, then they require more ‘fixing’ to get an even run of lights and if you’re using battery-powered round lights, then they can eat up batteries pretty quickly.

Bar lights

Bar lights are essentially linear bars of light that are available in battery-operated or wired form. These are my favorite style as they are easy to hide, allow for an even distribution of light, are linkable, come in a bunch of sizes making them super versatile, and they can be nice and bright, making it easier to create sections of light in desired areas. The only thing I’d say is that some bar lights can be a little fluorescent and harsh, so go for a warmer white color.

I'd recommend ASD LED Linear Under Cabinet Lighting 24 inch that I found on Amazon, they are easy to fit, give a warm light, are dimmable and easily adjustable too. 

Note too that when you’re installing them, be sure to fit them near to the front of the cabinets and aim the light so that it is shining down and inwards to reduce any glare.

How to install Led lighting under kitchen cabinets

Although this is a pretty straightforward install, it can be a little fiddly and you could likely do with a spare pair of hands to help out with any awkward steps such as tacking the wire. 

Before you get started you need to plan out where you want to install the lights. Consider the bigger picture first such as: 

• Where you have outlets that you can use for the lights (or a concealed space to add an extension lead) - if you haven’t got the power you can’t have the lights unless you opt for battery-powered.
• Which are the darker areas that you want to add brightness to.
• Whether you want to do any drilling or not.

Then think about the specific areas and map out:

• How many lights you want to use (considering cost, time and space available)
• Where each individual light will be placed

When planning your lights, remember to space them evenly. Even though you are installing the lights underneath the cabinets, the light output will be really prominent when you have no natural light (especially for darker areas) so you want this to be equal. This is even more important if you have chosen certain lights (such as puck or disc lights).

In terms of layout, if you are only using one light per cabinet door then ensure you install it centrally. For most kitchens, one per door area should work fine; if you are installing more, then just check the layout and positioning, you can do this using putty-like this one from Gorilla. Simply, plug in the lights then secure them with putty to check whether the positioning works. 

1. Plan and mark out your lighting

It goes without saying that you need to clear down all surfaces and make sure they’re ready for installation so you can see what you’re doing and have a clutter-free kitchen counter space. 

You can power the lights using any socket, hidden or out in the open. If you use a visible one then remember that you will want to be able to tack away the wires so they aren’t really visible. In addition, you probably don’t have a bunch of spare outlets, so you may need to use an extension lead which you probably don’t want sitting on your side. You may have hidden outlets behind appliances such as the microwave, so scope this out first and decide where you want your lights to sit. 

Once you have decided on the location, mark each end of the light out with a pencil so you have a guide. 

2. Drill any wire holes as needed 

So, now you have options. If you have gone for a wired lighting option then you can choose which route to take. You can drill into your cabinets and use concealed power outlets, hiding the wires (I love this drill from Black & Decker). Alternatively, if you only have one or two lights or want a less permanent solution then you can use a visible socket and simply tack the wire to hide the lights as much as possible, using wire tacks or cable clips.  

Before we talk about drilling, it's important to understand the formation of the light. Usually, there is a light on one end with a plug on the other and in between the two, some sort of small attachment that allows you to attach the plug to the light. The purpose of this is to help with installation and minimize the size of holes that you need to drill if you want to hide wires.  

So, if you choose to use sockets behind your cabinets then you will need to drill holes that are big enough to feed through the wire from the lights through the cabinet to the hidden socket. We will cover the other option below.  

To make the holes, choose the appropriate sized drill bit based on the size of wire you need to feed through (going for the smallest drill bit possible for the size of the hole needed, you can always go bigger). Start slowly, holding the drill and drilling steadily to create a path for the wire to reach the power outlet, make sure the hole allows for easy access to the outlet. 

3. Route the wires

Next, use the holes that you have drilled to route the wires through so that they can pass from the underneath of the cabinet to the inside and reach the socket. Make sure that when you’re doing this you feed the wire through from the inside, leaving the unplugged plug (which won’t fit through the hole) on the inside and feeding the wire through to the outside.

4. Mounting the lights

Now that you have routed the wires, you’re going to mount the lights. Usually, they come with either double-sided adhesive or clips. Sometimes they come with screws (which I prefer as it’s more secure). Take a look at your pencil marks from earlier, which marked out each end of the light and then decide how far in you want your clips, I’d say at least a centimeter from each end as you want to make sure they sit securely and evenly. 

To drill the clips in:

• Make a small starter hole with an awl or a smaller drill bit to avoid the drill slipping.
• Next, secure the bracket or clip at the desired location.
• Once the clips or brackets are drilled in, slot in the light.

If you have adhesive strips or clips simply choose the desired location and stick them on.

5. Hiding the wires

Once you have clipped your lights in you can tack the wires using wire clips like these from Attmu to the side of the unit to hide them away and ensure they don’t hang loose and look messy. 

This should be pretty simple, tack the wire evenly, screwing or nailing the tack out of sight into the side of the cabinet. If you have a lot of extra electrical wire between two lights, coil a section into a loop and strap both sides of the loop.

6. Turn on and enjoy!

Now you’re all installed, so simply plug in the plug at the outlet, connect the light and admire. You should have a switch on the light itself (it’s always worth checking this before you purchase) so that you can switch yours on and off as desired, without having to access the plug. 

Just in case you aren’t hiding lights then simply skip steps two and three and go from planning to installing your lights, being sure to hide the wires well, tacking them securely against the wall. You may want to choose a similar color wire to that of your backsplash or wall to make it as discreet as possible.

Whether you're looking to light up kitchen countertop or simply illuminate your space for a more airy finish, it's worth giving this DIY a go to feel all the benefits in your cooking zone.

If you're an avid upcycler, it's easy to see the potential in everything you set your eyes on. When Leslie Jarrett spotted this cool antique piece of furniture online, suddenly, refinishing a buffet was next on her list of DIYs, and a very exciting prospect at that. 

You may have guessed, Jarrett is an avid DIYer. 

Based in Denver, CO, she has a furniture flipping business @wonderfullymadebyleslie and picked up this solid wood antique buffet for just $60 on Facebook Marketplace before setting out to refinish it, lightening the wood to give it an updated farmhouse look.

Finding your inspiration

It always helps to have a vision in mind when you start even looking for furniture to flip. 'I knew I wanted a lighter wood piece but I wasn’t sure if that was possible until I removed the old stain and topcoat. I tried using bleach for the first time to cut out some of the yellow in the wood and it worked like a charm!' Making this an ideal piece for a farmhouse kitchen or dining space.

How to refinish an antique wood buffet

Before you consider a piece to upcycle, you do need to asses that it's in good enough condition to work on. Jarrett highlights that 'The piece had a lot of cosmetic issues but it was in solid condition.'

Note that refinishing furniture is an achievable project even for newbies to the DIY world but, it will take a little more time and patience, so block out a weekend and don't give up! 

'Refinishing this massive antique buffet has been one of my hardest projects thus far and the hardware was in serious need of a good cleaning…but you know what? I always love my restored pieces a little more because the amount of work that goes into them.'

Here's how to tackle this upcycle.

1. Clean and strip the piece

'First clean your piece with Krud Kutter then apply a paint stripper.' Jarrett said she also cleaned up the hardware using trusty Bar Keepers Friend along with the toothbrush.

There are good eco-friendly products you can use when stripping varnish from wood furniture like Back to Nature's Hi-Speed-Ready-Strip which you can find on The Home Depot usually for less than $10.

It is best to work in sections, and Jarrett used an old toothbrush on the trim pieces.

2. Sand thoroughly

Sanding furniture is key as it will give a good finish and better grip for repainting. 

'After scraping the stripper off (per directions on the bottle), sand the entire piece starting with 80 then 150 then 220 grit sandpaper.' 

For this, Jarrett bought Orbital rounds on Amazon but depending on your piece, it's worth investing in an assortment of sandpaper, and being thorough will always give the best results so don't skip this step. 'Sanding grippers helped get in all the detail spots.' 

3. Treat and refinish

Next, Jarrett actually applied bleach to the entire piece, allowing it to dry completely. 

Make sure you wear gloves, protective eyewear and a mask. And while bleach is useful to lighten wood, when it comes to cleaning products, we like to keep more eco-friendly cleaning products to hand!

Jarrett then chose a paint wash over a stain, 'I applied a paint wash instead of a stain because I was wanting to blend the grain stripes on the piece. A stain would have made them stand out more. I used a 4:1 ratio of water to paint.'

Both staining and painting furniture always makes a huge difference.

'I immediately wiped the paint wash off with a towel to get the perfect amount of product on the piece. This technique takes some practice!'

4. Apply a topcoat

For a more uniform finish, Jarrett sanded some more areas before applying the topcoat – a water-based polyurethane. She used Varathan Clear Matte Water-Based Interior Polyurethane from The Home Depot.

'I applied a paint wash instead of a stain because I was wanting to blend the grain stripes on the piece.'

Miniwax's Clear Water-Based Protective Finish in Satin is water-based and another good option to seal wooden furniture against scratches and spills.

5. Style

Jarrett's modern buffet is styled to modern farmhouse perfection. Uncomplicated with a simple rattan vase, some layered frames, greenery and tableware, of course. It's unfussy which works as the buffet honestly speaks for itself.

There's no doubt about it, the result on this antique buffet is gorgeous and will bring a lot of modern charm to a home, without a big spend. 

Jarrett shared her total budget for this project: 

'I believe a solid wood light finish buffet in great condition would go for $2k.' Shared Jarrett, which isn't far off! 'I spent $60 on the piece, $40 on paint stripper, $25 on carbide scraper, $10 grippers, $15 sandpaper, $25 paint, and $15 on the topcoat!'

Not bad for $190.

Why not do the same on your thrifted finds to save a ton on what will feel like a totally new addition to your space? A refinished buffet would look great as a dining room addition or in a hallway.

At some point, every oven owner will likely need to know how to remove an oven door. Door removal can be a daunting prospect so we’ve pulled together this handy guide, with everything you need to know.

It’ll come as no surprise that oven doors operate on hinges, but how the hinges are secured varies from model to model. Some ovens have retaining brackets that are held in place with screws, some have hinge locks that operate with a catch-like motion, whereas some lift straight off without the need for any tools. Don’t panic, this sounds more confusing than it is and our handy guide below will tell you everything you need to know.

Do you actually need to remove your oven door?

Before we start getting into the detail of hinge types, disengaging locks, and retaining brackets, it’s worth checking that you actually need to remove the door in the first place. Many oven doors are designed so that you can clean glass oven doors without the need to take the whole door off. Therefore, if cleaning is actually the reason behind your visit here today it’s worth checking if you can simply take the inner glass out before continuing with the steps below. 

Removable inner door glass on an oven is sometimes seated on a spring-like mechanism which allows for the glass to be gently pushed down from the top, towards the base of the oven, to release the top of the inner glass door from the catch that secures it, at this point, you can lift the glass out and gently place on a towel or blanket. 

Alternatively, you might need to remove part of the top section of the door to free the glass as shown above. Once the glass is free, it can be lifted gently out. 

If your inner glass definitely doesn’t detach or your need for removal was not cleaning related then keep reading…

How is my oven door secured?

To be sure of the correct process for how to remove the door, first, you need to identify how yours is secured. To do this, fully open the door so it is parallel with the floor and examine the hinges at the bottom corner where the door meets the oven. Once you have assessed the type of hinge and any additional features choose the appropriate guide below. Before you start removing the door, prepare an area to safely store the door once removed. A countertop is ideal as long as you place a towel or blanket down first to protect the surface and the oven door.

Oven door hinges with rotating latches

These are extremely common and easy to spot. There is a metal lever/catch that rotates on a 180-degree path. The end of the latch will be clipped into position resting against the oven itself holding the hinge in place. 

Ensure the oven door is fully open.

Lift the latch from the end furthest away from the central pivot point. It might be possible to lift the latch with your fingers, but you’ll likely benefit from the end of a slotted screwdriver.

Place the tip of the screwdriver under the latch and lever it upwards. Take care when handling tools over the open oven door, a dropped screwdriver from the right (or wrong) height could cause the oven door to crack.

Once the latch becomes free, rotate it away from the oven door.

Do the same thing on the opposite side of the oven until both latches have become free.

Close the oven door until almost fully closed.

Carefully lift the oven in an upwards motion, holding the sides of the door, not the front door handle, until the hinges become free.

Carry the door over to the area you have prepared and gently place down on the towel or blanket.

Rotating latch hinges with additional retaining brackets

These are the same as rotating latch hinges but also have a bracket that is part of the door and is screwed onto the oven directly above the hinges. To remove a door of this design, follow the same steps as above but, additionally, loosen the screws on the retaining brackets on each side. Once the brackets have been loosened sufficiently, they can be removed (it’s a good idea to tape them to the oven door before taking the door off) and you are ready to lift the door up and off, as before. 

Latchless hinges

Hinges without a latch or locking mechanism go straight into the oven from the door with no additional security. These are the easiest to remove as you can simply lift them up and out of position. To do this, open the oven slightly, hold the sides of the oven door and lift the door up and off. Carefully place the oven door down in the area you have prepared. 

Safety Note

It goes without saying that oven cleaning and maintenance of any kind must only be completed when the oven is cool. Parts of an oven can reach extremely high temperatures, so must be allowed to cool to avoid serious burns. 

Always refer to the manufacturer’s specific instruction manual for your oven model. If you have lost the paper copy that came with the oven, it’s always worth Googling the model name as most manuals are available online. 

Top tip: The photos of the key pages and email them to yourself with the model, serial number and date of purchase in the subject and always register your products to activate the warranties. 

How to replace an oven door

Follow the above procedures in reverse to replace your oven door. Hold the sides of the doors, close to the base of the door to make the process of slotting the hinges back in easier. The door will need to be at the same angle for replacement as it was at removal and it will definitely help if you have someone to help at this point as it can take a couple of attempts to get it right. 

When you want to spruce up your cooking space, something as simple as learning how to install kitchen cabinet handles yourself, could be a transformative move. 

Cabinet handles are small but mighty. These little pieces of hardware are deceptively important; they have a huge amount of pulling power (excuse the pun!) without people realizing it. 

If you’re on a budget and can’t afford a high-end kitchen remodel then no dramas,  because swapping dated handles out for a new type of pull and new color, paired with a quick paint job on the walls perhaps, can completely transform your space without costing the earth. 

You can also mix and match handles for a more stylish look, use pull handles like these from Goldenwarm on drawers, along with more of a door knob style handle like these for cupboards to give the impression of a more custom-made kitchen. This project really gives you the chance to get creative!

Knowing your cabinets

First things first, before you install or change your handles, let’s talk about the lingo. If you've ever installed kitchen cabinets yourself, you might already know this, but if not, on a cabinet door, you typically have:

• A rail which is the bottom piece of wood that acts as the base of the door
• A stile, this is the vertical, outer piece of wood (or material) that runs from the bottom to the top of the cabinet
• There is also a leading edge, this is the side of the door opposite the hinges

These terms will be useful when we talk about actually installing cabinet handles.

Where should handles sit on the cupboard door?

There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to where handles should sit. It depends on the cabinet or drawer type, the handle type and user preference.  

A good rule to follow with vertical pulls or handles is to line the bottom of the handle up with the top of the door rail. Otherwise, I tend to just like to make sure that handles are central. 

You should also consider usability; for lower cabinets and drawers, you want to be able to pull them open without having to reach down too far. For higher cabinets, it is advisable to put them at the bottom, so that you don’t have to reach up. For drawers, so that they pull correctly and look their best aesthetically, you should position the handles in the center and for cupboards, if you are going to use knobs, they are typically placed on the opposite side to the hinges. 

How to install kitchen cabinet handles step-by-step

This is an easy job and something that you can do alone.

In terms of how long you should set aside, that depends on the number of handles you need to install but on average, a cabinet will take around 15 minutes. You'll probably get quicker as you go.

1. Decide on the position of the handles

Once you have started to drill, it is tricky to wind things back, so before you make any marks, test out the position of your handles. You can do this by using putty like this Loctite one. Stick the putty to the back of the handle and place it on the cupboard where you are thinking of putting it, then stand back and see whether you think that works. If you aren’t sure, take some photos of different spots and then narrow down your favorite. Mark the one you like most with a pencil like this one from Irwin. 

2. Measure and mark your drill holes 

Once you have decided on your preferred position, then it’s time to measure and make the marks to drill your holes, you can use a drill like this one from Bielmeier. Firstly, this is the most important part, accurate and equal measurements are critical to your kitchen looking chic and professional. Take care if you have high gloss doors as they scratch very easily. 

Kitchen cabinets and drawer handles will normally have two or three screw mounting points, knobs have one. The way you measure them is effectively the same though. This example is for cup handles like these by Harpoon which have three screws, one at the center-top and one either side.

• Find the center of the cabinet as a guide and mark this lightly with a pencil at the top of the door
• Next, using your tape measure like this one from Komelon, measure how far down the door you want to put the handle (for example, if you have decided that you want the handle five centimeters from the top of the cupboard then take your tape measure, measure five centimeters and mark lightly with the pencil, down from the central point of the door). You now have your central point and your guide for installing the top part of the handle
• To find your center hole, measure the distance between the top of the handle and the hole for the screw, then mark this on your cupboard with your pencil (for example, if you have chosen to install the handle five centimeters from the top of the door and there is a 0.5 centimeter gap between the top of the handle and the hole, then make a drill mark 5.5 centimeters down from the center mark at the top of the door
• Next, measure the distance between the top screw and the bottom screws and mark this out on the door
• Finally, measure the center-to-center measurement (i.e. the distance between each of the holes on either side of the handle so for example if the handle is five centimeters long, the center-to-center measurement is 2.5 centimeters). Once you have this, using your central mark, measure and mark each side of your center point

You now have all of your drilling holes.

If you have another type of handles, here are your install options:

If you have a standard two-point handle, then simply measure out how far down the door you wish to place the handle. Mark the location of the top door handle hold and then using the measurement for center-to-center, mark the position of the second hole.

If you are simply installing a door knob, decide how far in from the side of the door you would like this (5 centimeters is a good gauge) then measure the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the knob.

Remember: Check all of your measurements twice before drilling and be careful not to make deep marks or press too firmly when you are drawing the lines as you may damage your cabinet.

3. Check your guide marks before drilling

Check your guide holes before you start to drill. To do this, take the handle and place it in the desired position over the marks that you have made, checking that you are happy with the position and that each mark corresponds with a screw hole.

4. It's time to drill

 Before you start to drill, make sure that the door is protected (for example with masking tape or protective film) to minimize any damage. Make a starter hole with  your drill to give your drill something to grip on to and prevent it from slipping. You can do this either with an awl (a pointed tool for making marks before you drill) like this one from General Toolsor use a smaller drill bit. 

• To use an awl, place the awl on top of the mark where you want to drill and press down very firmly so that it makes a dent in the wood
• To make a starter hole using a smaller drill bit, choose a drill bit that is smaller than the screw supplied, line up your drill to the pencil mark slowly drill. Make sure you keep your hand as level and steady as possible

Once you have your starter hole, drill your screw hole. To do this, use a drill bit the same size or just slightly bigger than your screw (don’t go much bigger as the screw will then be too loose and the handle will move). Usually, a 5-millimeter drill bit will work but check the bit against the screw to ensure they are the same approximate size. Take it slow to avoid any damage and keep your hand level. 

5. Screw in your handles 

Now you have your holes it’s time to screw in the handles. This should be pretty simple:

For pull handles, you will follow steps two and three but ordinarily, pull handles are screwed on from the inside. If this is the case then pop the screw into the hole from the inside of the door and place the handle on top of it, then follow steps two and three.

If your screws are too long then you can trim them to size. Measure the amount they need to be trimmed by (this is essentially the gap between the door front and the handle when screwed in), mark this using masking tape, and then either cut off the unwanted bit with a hacksaw or bend back and forth with pliers. Be sure to trim on a non-threaded area (i.e. a smooth part). 

Pro tips

1. You could always make or buy a jig (or template) like this one from Ravinte but unless you are installing lots of handles it probably isn't necessary. 

2. If you need to cover up any holes on the cabinets, for example if you are changing handles from a two-screw pull handle to a knob then you can do this with backplates like these from Naubea. If you don’t want to use backplates then you can always try to fill the holes with putty like this one from the Color Putty Company. If you are painting kitchen cabinets then you can use any type of putty, fill the hole and sand it off to ensure it is smooth before priming and painting. If, however, you are just replacing the handles then this can be a little tough. You will need to find some putty to match which is much trickier with non-wood kitchens. 

Rectangular or square knobs can twist over time, as well as screwing them down you can also add a drop of super glue like Gorilla glue to the back of the knob before you install them. Remember to be quick because it will dry in no time!

If you love a luxe look for a kitchen, but can’t afford marble or engineered stone then why not create a DIY microcement backsplash to change up your cooking space, without splashing the cash?

Sure, kitchen countertops have always been big business as they are often the shining star of the kitchen set-up. These days, however, surface-level countertops alone don’t cut it: it really is all about the backsplash. 

If you are looking for kitchen backsplash ideas, bigger really does seem to be better. Backsplashes often run the length of the countertop and extend much higher up the wall than ever before often culminating in a floating ledge shelf constructed in the same material as the countertop and backsplash. 

DIY Microcement backsplash: step-by-step

You heard it here first, using microcement is not a passing trend. MIcrocement countertops  and even microcement kitchen cabinets look awesome and this durable and adaptable material is the answer to many DIY dilemmas. A DIY microcement kit offers a way for dedicated DIYers to go a step beyond simply designing their dream home interior because they can now execute the build phase too. 

Want a new kitchen? Lusting over a fancy coffee table, but can’t afford the designer price tag? You guessed it, grab the microcement! Sounds too good to be true, right? Wrong! I’m going to go one better than just telling you about the virtues of this miraculous material, I’m going to show you exactly what to do with my step-by-step guide on how to microcement a backsplash yourself.

Whether you've tiled a backsplash before or not, DIYers of most levels will be able to tackle this project. As with any home DIY project, take your time, wear the necessary safety gear and always read the instruction manual of any power tools you're using.

Step 1: Build your base

The great thing about microcement is that it can be applied to many surface types as long as you use the primer provided. Being able to use moisture-resistant MDF as a base opens up a world of possibilities for your backsplash project because you can decide on the height, width, shape, and depth.  

I plumped for a rectangular panel that wrapped around the shape of the wall and cut out the shape required for the plug sockets we had. As this project was part of a DIY kitchen remodel, the wall behind wasn’t in great condition as tiles and upper kitchen units had been removed and plug sockets relocated, so after I’d filled the holes it was extra handy to be able to cover over these imperfections with my backsplash base. 

I glued the panel to the wall using grab adhesive as there was a large flat surface which was great for maximum adhesion. I upcycled an old picture shelf by turning it upside down and cutting into pieces to create a ledge shelf. 

I sealed the join along the base of the newly constructed backsplash to ensure that no moisture could creep through and get under or behind the backsplash or countertop.

Step 2: Gather your microcement materials

You need a few tools and materials for a microcement project and they really need to be close at hand as time is of the essence once you’ve mixed your batch of microcement so it pays to get organised beforehand. 

It’s important that your tools and buckets are clean so check this before you start mixing. 

Step 3: Prime your surface

The DIY kit I use contains a primer that you mix up with water. It’s easy to apply and means that the microcement will adhere to your base. Apply the primer liberally with a foam paint roller. If you are only covering the backsplash in microcement then tape off along the countertop join to create a neat line and keep the countertops clean and free from primer and microcement.

Step 4: Mix the microcement

Following the manufacturer’s guidelines, mix the microcement in a clean bucket and allow to sit for the required amount of time. If the mix starts to set, add more liquid following the instructions that came with the kit. 

Step 5: Apply the first coat

Using a flexible spreading tool, start applying the microcement to the top of your backsplash. Always start at the top and work down as that way any drips, runs or splashes won’t ruin the area below. Don’t panic if you do drip onto an already covered area as you can usually smooth the surface whilst wet or sand down the bumps once dry.  

Working across and down, load up your spreader with a small amount of microcement and use firm pressure and sweeping motions so it adheres to the backsplash base at a thickness of 1-2mm. 

As I wanted a continuous microcement surface, I continued onto the countertop, but you could stop at the join where your masking tape indicates.

Once you have completed the whole area and are happy with the coverage, allow to dry for 24 hours, or the time stated on the instructions. 

Step 6: Sand the first layer

When the first coat has dried, lightly sand any obvious surface lumps or bumps. Wear a dust mask and ideally use a sander that has a dust collector or vacuum connection to prevent concrete dust particles from getting into the air as they can be hazardous to health if breathed in. 

This layer will actually be covered by the second coat so you don’t need to spend too much time getting it perfect, the aim here is to make sure there aren’t any major imperfections that will show through the final surface. 

Remember that the layer is thin so don’t apply firm pressure with the sander or overwork the area as this could cause damage. Once you are happy with the finish, vacuum up and dust and ensure the surface is clean and free from dust before moving on to the next priming stage.

Step 7: Prime again

Mix another batch of primer and apply over the area you have just covered with microcement. While the primer is drying, mix up your next batch of microcement following the same process as before. 

Step 8: Apply the second layer

The second layer of microcement should be applied in the same way as the first. By now you’ll have probably developed a knack for it and have your own system for loading the spreader and applying it to the backsplash. Pay close attention to the quality of the finish on this layer as this is the one you will spend a lot of time looking at. Apply even pressure with the spreader and get the surface as smooth and flat as you possibly can, not only does this save time and effort on sanding, but it will also mean the finished results will be a polished concrete look. 

Step 9: Final sanding

Once the second layer has dried, lightly sand to your desired smoothness. Work in small circular motions with the sander and apply even pressure. Failure to sand evenly could result in an uneven final texture which will show up more after the backsplash is sealed. As before, remember to wear a mask and collect the dust from the sander. 

Step 10: Seal your microcement backsplash

Clean the backsplash off, ensuring there isn't any dust on the surface and apply a sealant to make it waterproof and food safe. 

Once sealed, admire your funky new kitchen addition, and if you've caught the microcement bug, start planning your next project! You can alternatively consider wrapping vs painting your countertops.

I, like many DIYers, have a love-hate relationship with sanding. It can be such a transformative process…utterly satisfying, yet tedious, messy, and slow all at the same time. If you aren’t careful, you’ll be wiping away layers of seemingly never-ending dust from every surface within a mile radius of the thing you sanded and if you don’t use the correct ‘grit’ sandpaper you’ll either make little impact or potentially cause irreparable damage.  

However, as any keen DIYer knows, there’s nothing quite like bringing an old piece of furniture back to life or refinishing hardwood floors and neither of these tasks (or hundreds similar) can be properly achieved without at least a smidgen of sanding. If you want to avoid the pitfalls and grab all the glory instead, read on because our complete guide to sanding wood has all the nitty gritty (pun intended!). 

What is sanding?

Sanding is the process where you smooth or shape the surface of a piece of wood (or other material, but we are specifically looking at wood today) by rubbing it repeatedly with an abrasive sheet of paper. This can be done manually with loose sheets of sandpaper folded over a piece of wood or similar for ease of grip, or with an electric sander with attached pads of sandpaper. There are also specially designed sanding blocks and pads, often made from foam, that you use manually in wet or dry conditions depending on the DIY project or upcycling job. 

When do you need to sand?

Sanding is often undertaken when there is a surface coat of paint, stain, lacquer, or even to remove mold from wood. This could be as part of an upcycle or restoration project, or just part of general home maintenance. As well as refreshing old wood, sanding is a useful tool in construction and woodworking for smoothing the surface of rough-sawn or new wood, to ensure it is fit for interior use. Sanding can elevate a piece of wood by revealing the grain which can be a real feature. 

Are there different types of sander?

Cordes and cordless sanders are power tools and, there are lots of different types of sanders out there. DIYers need to know about the following types… 

• Belt sanders: These are very powerful and ideal for heavy-duty jobs such as floors. They can be quite bulky, with a limited range of motion. 
• Orbital sanders: These sanders vibrate with a tiny circular motion. They are more useful as a finishing sander rather than for very heavy-duty sanding and are suitable for furniture and staircases. They are great for flat surfaces and are a toolkit staple for regular DIYers.  
• Random orbital sanders: These are similar to standard orbital sanders but they rotate as well as vibrate in a circular motion. They can leave less obvious sanding marks than the standard orbital sander due to the two separate motions they perform. Random orbital sanders are really useful for DIYers with regular projects.
• Mouse sanders: These sanders work in a similar way to orbital ones, but have a distinctly recognizable shape based on the computer mouse. The tip is pointed to allow for easy access to inside corners and tight areas. These are a low-cost, handy addition to most tool kits and are ideal for DIYers with small projects. 

How do you know what grit to use?

On first inspection, the numbers on the back of sandpaper and pads can feel a bit daunting or confusing, but it’s actually a really simple system. If you buy a selection pack of sandpaper pads for your sander, they will likely come with at least some of the following grits, p40, p60, p80, p120, p180, p240. The ‘P’ relates to the grade assigned to the product in accordance with FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives). In the US the CAMI system is used which has many of the same principles as its European counterpart, the numbering is very similar but there is no preceding letter, ie 40 grit on the CAMI system is equivalent to P40 on the FEMA.

Coarse

40-60 grit sandpaper is considered to be coarse and is suitable for more heavy-duty sanding. Coarse grits will produce faster results but can be too abrasive for some jobs, such as finishing, and will leave heavier marks and could damage the wood. Use these for very rough wood and removing stubborn old paint. You would not use coarse sandpaper on intricate details, edges, or corners. 

80 grit sandpaper is a toolkit essential, it’s less coarse than 40-60 but still effective and is the ideal starting grit for sanding hardwoods.

Medium

100 grit sandpaper is good for preparing wood for finishing and can also be useful for removing stains.

120 grit sandpaper is a good starting grade for softer woods and is another toolkit essential. 

Fine

180-240 grit sandpaper would be considered fine and is suitable for finishing, in between coats of paint to remove imperfections, or even to key a surface (roughen it slightly before you apply a primer). 

Some sheets of sandpaper might not be numbered, but instead might have descriptions like Extra-Fine, Fine, Medium, and Coarse. In the below image, these have been given references F2 (Fine), M2 (medium), and S2 (coarse) as seen below.

Do I need an electric sander?

The answer depends on how much sanding you have planned. If you are an occasional DIY dabbler and have a light sanding job to complete, then maybe not. However, as you can pick up small electric sanders like this Black and Decker mouse sander from Amazon they aren’t a big investment and will make the job so much easier so I do recommend getting one if you can.

Do I need a mask? 

There’s no denying, that sanding can be really dusty and it's best to use a sander with a hoover attachment or a dust collector at every opportunity. Sanding should be done outside, where possible, which is easy if it's a small piece of furniture, but less so if it's a door frame! When you have to sand inside, it’s advisable to wear a dust mask and ensure the room is well-ventilated. Dust masks are cheap and easy to buy at your local hardware store, or can be picked up on Amazon too.

How do I sand wood? 

• Prepare the area. If sanding indoors is unavoidable, clear the area and cover it with dust sheets. Wear a mask and ensure your sander has a dust collector or hoover attachment. Wipe the surface to remove any dust or dirt.
• Choose the correct starting grit sandpaper for your project and attach it to your chosen sander. Sand with the grain, which means in the direction that the fibers of the wood are pointing. If the sandpaper starts to show signs of wear and tear before you are ready to move to the next grit you should replace the paper.

Top Tip: Some woodworkers suggest marking the surface of the wood with a pencil to use as a guide for how much to sand before moving on to the next grit, this is more useful with the finer grits as they leave less of a mark than the coarse papers so it’s less easy to see where you’ve been.

• Move to a finer grit to finish the job, you should clean the surface in between swapping the sandpaper each time to remove surface dust.
  

Top Tip: You should work your way through the grits progressively, not skipping more than one grade each time as moving to a fine grade too quickly can mean the sandpaper can’t properly smooth the finish left by the coarser paper.

What is wet sanding and why is it different?

Wet sanding is similar to dry sanding but water is introduced into the process to help lubricate the sanding block which is specifically developed for wet sanding.

Creates an even smoother finish than dry sanding so is used when optimal smoothness is key and you don’t get any dust.

Is there any wood you shouldn't sand?

You shouldn’t sand pressure-treated wood because it can cause the chemicals which have been infused into the surface layers to be breathed in via airborne dust particles. Sanding can also cause pressure-treated wood to look very ugly, with a variable finish that cannot be rectified with stain, so sanding is best avoided.

Learning how to tile a backsplash – known as a splashback in the UK – might seem intimidating if you've never tiled anything in your life, but it's actually a pretty straightforward job. How complicated the DIY will depend mostly on the area you're covering, the type of tile design you're working with, whether you need to cut the tile, and so on.

But honestly, prepare enough, take your time with it, and not only with you be able to bring the best kitchen backsplash ideas to life, going as bespoke as you'd like, but you'll also save a ton on labor costs.

Lean on our expert-led video and step-by-step guide below to see how you can install a tiled backsplash like a pro. 

How do you tile a backsplash step-by-step

Even if you're a total newbie to the world of DIY, if you're remodeling a kitchen, it's a good skill to have under your belt!

Mike Katona, skilled DIYer from the ShabbyChicHouse notes how prep is key, 'Each and every tile project is different. Before you begin a tile project you should plan out where you'll start the tile, where you'll be placing partial tiles and how the tiles will terminate along the edges.'

Phillip Ash, the founder of Pro Paint Corner – a small business that specializes in paint resources and home design likewise says 'Measurements are key,' noting how if you're installing a backsplash, 'you don't want to cut any corners or you'll end up with a less than stellar job.

'The first thing you want to do is to make sure you have the materials you need to properly measure the space. These include: a tape measure, pencil, and a 48 inch spirit level. Ensure you have these before beginning your DIY job.' 

Cutting your tiles

No matter how much you try to avoid cutting tile, it is highly likely that you'll need to cut them once you reach the edges anyhow. If you want to minimize cutting, another option is to finish the backsplash a little way beneath your cabinets, leaving a distance of say 15 centimeters between the backsplash and the top of the cabinet. You will likely still need to cut the tiles at each edge of the countertop but this is easier to hide so it's a good option if you feel a little less confident. 

If you are cutting tiles, you might need a specialist cutter. A tile scribe like this one from Tile rite can be used on thin tiles, but you may need an electric cutter like this one from Tooltronix or a wet saw like this one from Monster group for thicker or more complex cuts, such as right angles or curves.

A bullnose tile like these from Daltile is characterized by its rounded edges and is often used to cover or frame the perimeter of a tile design. Quarter round tiles are also used to finish edges or turn corners. Pencil tiles can often add a little more character to the finished look. Alternatively, you can choose to go with a metal strip finish, though this may work best in bathrooms. 

The type of cut and style of tiles you're using will influence the style of cutter you require. In general, the following rules apply:

• A manual cutter is used to achieve straight lines.
• When dealing with thinner tiles, it's often best to use a tile scribe.
• To achieve right angles, curved edges and to cut through thicker tiles – for example, porcelain or natural stone – you'll want to use an electric cutter.

1. Prepare the wall for tiling

As with all tiling projects, taking the time to prepare is vital, so make sure to clean your wall area with soap and water and cover your kitchen countertops with plastic sheeting, newspaper or a dust sheet. 

Wait for the surface to dry before going any further. You may need to prime your wall and, in wet areas, you may need a waterproof adhesive, but check with the tile manufacturer for what’s recommended.

Remember to think about the wall type you're dealing with also. 'You can tile over painted drywall but you'll want to make sure to sand it first,; says Ash. 'An orbital sander like this one by Press nuts is an ideal tool for the job, though you can always work by hand. Purchase 80 to 120 grit sandpaper like this one from Timco for this job and get to work removing the shine or finish from your paint. Roughing up the surface of your wall will allow the mortar for the tile to adhere better.'

Katona adds, 'You can tile on a painted or unpainted wall. The biggest factor is ensuring that you have a level surface to work with. I had an instance in my mirrored subway tile project in which I had to taper my walls with drywall mud to eliminate some small and unsightly gaps.'

2. Measure for tiling

Using a tape measure and a level, mark a horizontal and vertical plumb line (i.e. straight lines that serve as a guide) at your starting point to ensure the tile is level.  

If the area you’re tiling has a plug socket or switch on it, you’ll need to measure where this sits on the tiles before you start laying and make the cuts as necessary using a tile cutter as described above. 

3. Mix the mortar or tile adhesive

Make sure to select an adhesive to suit your tile choice. You can use either a ready-mixed or a cement-based adhesive, which you’ll make up yourself according to the packaging instructions.

Remember to use a waterproof adhesive like this one from Mapei, for wet areas by sinks. If you want to try and save a little money then you can always buy a combined adhesive that serves as an adhesive for the tiles as well as a grout, though it can be tricky to achieve a good finish with these as they can be low spec so if it is a highly visible area, we'd recommend buying separate products. 

4. Carefully apply the tile adhesive

'If it's a backsplash - typically it's best to start at the countertop and work your way up. This is because you'll want a full tile butting up to your countertop and typically you can hide a cut/partial tile under your cabinets.' Says Katona.

So, starting at the bottom of the wall, apply the adhesive using a notched trowel like this one from Faithfull, or using a standard trowel and then creating the grooves with an adhesive spreader like this one from Vitrix . Apply a generous layer and create grooves, or notches, in the same direction, which will help the tiles to stick.

Make sure to do a small area at a time – no more than a square meter– as the adhesive will set quite quickly.

5. Lay the first tiles

'If it's a backsplash - typically it's best to start at the countertop and work your way up. This is because you'll want a full tile butting up to your countertop and typically you can hide a cut/partial tile under your cabinets.' Says Katona.

Carefully push the tile into the adhesive and place a tile spacer like these from Ox along each edge. If you’re using mosaic sheets, like these from Grand taps and tiles that are designed to fit together, you won’t need any spacers, if however they aren't designed to fit together then you will need to use spacers in between each sheet in the same way. 

Repeat the steps until you’ve covered the backsplash area and wipe the surface to remove any glue residue, using a clean cloth or sponge, as you go as the adhesive will dry quickly. 

Leave the tiles for a few hours – or even overnight – to set and then you’ll be ready to apply the grout.

6. Prepare and apply the grout

Mix the correct type of grout for your tile type (this one from Unibond is fairly multifunctional and can be used for most tiles) in a bucket. It’s best to do a little at a time, as the grout sets quickly. Leave the mixed grout for two to three minutes and then mix again before applying.

Once mixed to a good, thick consistency, scoop the grout onto a grout float like this one from Vitrex and press it into the gaps by holding the float at a 45-degree angle and slowly, but firmly spreading it onto the surface. If you haven't got a grout float you can use a spatula, spreading the grout like frosting on a cake.

Wipe the tiles with a clean, damp sponge regularly to remove excess. Take care not to overwet the tile at this point, which can weaken the finished grout. Make sure you know how to clean grout on your tiles to keep them looking fine in the future too!

7. Seal and clean the tiles then admire the results!

After you’ve covered the whole area, leave it for about an hour and wipe it down again to ensure a clean finish. You can then apply sealant like this one from Unibond along the edges to make sure your new surface is watertight before admiring your beautiful new tiled feature.

The results

Styling your DIY backsplash install

Ash reminds us how when tiling a backsplash, to have fun with tile choice. 'Tile backsplashes are so great as they make for easier clean up from messes and protect the wall ... They also help to reinforce the style of a room. There are tons of great design choices but if you want to be on trend, stay away from rectangular subway tiles and opt for something in a slightly more fun shape, like hexagon, or fish scale. You can also opt for peel and stick tile which is a much cheaper option, and requires a lot less effort to install.' 

Splash away!

Granted we all need bookcases in our lives, but do we need unsightly ones? Negative. If you're not in a position to buy brand new furniture right now, refinishing a bookcase that you've thrifted – or that's already in your home looking worse for wear – is a very wise idea. Whether you want to restore an old piece or give a 'modern' piece of furniture that feels a little tacky, a new stylish lease of life, there are some hard, fast and simple steps to follow that will help you achieve your bookcase of dreams.

You could, of course, build a bookshelf from scratch, but if you like to go thrift shopping – who does not? – follow in furniture flipper Christina Lipstone's footsteps to create a fresh new look for your bookshelf.

How to refinish a bookcase

In most homes, storage is pretty much always at a premium. Even if you have a big space, there is always something to stow away, or display. In Lipstone's case, her bookcases were very much needed for storage. So they are a key storage item and totally worth investing some DIY time into.

Keep scrolling for the step-by-step!

1. Source your bookcase

First off, you want to find a bookcase, ripe for refinishing. 'I found these bookcases on Facebook Marketplace.' Shares Lipstone.

Consider what you want from it, whether you want open or hidden storage, how big your space will allow for and so on.

'I was looking for storage options for all of my staging items I use to stage my finished furniture pieces that I’m selling. Buying bookcases brand new was way out of my budget, so when I saw these on Facebook Marketplace I knew they would be perfect!'

2. Sand and remove the existing finish

Not all finishes are good ones, and these bookcases were giving off very dated vibes. 

'The bookcases had previously been painted in acrylic paint. I spent weeks sanding all the acrylic paint off and removed the diamond-shaped hardware on each door.'

If you don't want to use a sander, there are other ways to remove paint from wood furniture including heat guns and oven cleaners... 

3. Replace trim and hardware

After taking her time to sand off the paint, Lipstone went on to change up the hardware. 'I added new trim, legs, and handles.'

'The edges of the bookcases were exposed MDF and made the bookcases look unfinished. I went to Home Depot and purchased some primed pine and trim wood. I cut them to size then glued and nailed them in place to give the bookcases a finished look.'

You want a seamless finish, ready for painting. In Lipstone's case, she had to fill some gaps and smooth seams of the new hardware additions. 

'I wood-filled all the nail holes and caulked the seams of the new trim pieces.'

4. Repaint and reassemble 

She then repainted the entire bookcase with a color that was far more aligned with her interior design style – modern boho.

'My personal style is a modern boho look. Since I was keeping these for myself I went with my favorite color Coal Black from Fusion Mineral paint. I primed and then painted using my paint sprayer. Next I added some support blocks on the bottom in order to add the new legs.

5. Add finishing decorative touches

'Once I got the bookcases in the house I realized the doors weren’t sliding smoothly, so I added Wise Owl furniture salve to each door runner and this fixed the issue.'

Lipstone noted how choosing the wooden accents in hardware was done to better contrast the black and it's those finer details that can make a major difference:

'I purchased square-shaped wooden dowels on Amazon and cut them to size to use as hardware. I carefully glued them to each door.'

The results:

'I estimate I spent about $350 in total. When I initially started looking for bookcases the cost brand new was anywhere from $300-$700 a piece! I saved a ton of money buying from Facebook marketplace and refinishing them on my own.'

Lipstone's bookcase refinish came in at a reasonable cost, considering the difference, aesthetically, and the average price for a brand new bookcase (that looks this good).

'All of it was so worth it. I’d like to say my style is a cross between modern and boho and I couldn’t be happier with the way it pulled this whole room together. It was so rewarding finally doing a flip for myself and now I get to enjoy all my hard work every time I pass by this room!' Adds Lipstone.

You could take your budget even lower with a DIY bookshelf or by keeping your flip a little more simple. A quick clean, sand, and a new coat of furniture paint can often be all you need. The key is to find an original piece that needs less in terms of fixing up to start with so that there's less to replace in terms of hardware and trim. 

Happy flipping!

Being able to install baseboards yourself (or skirting boards as they are known in the UK) is such a useful DIY skill to have. It's amazing the impact that new baseboards can have on a room, especially if you plump for a bold decorative board and use paint to enhance the transformation. 

Baseboards are there to cover the joint between the wall and the floor. It makes a decorative border while hiding the gaps needed to cope with a house's natural expansion and contraction so it's a worthwhile DIY project to try yourself. 

Baseboards come in different heights and styles and are produced in a wide range of materials, you can even buy ready primed boards to save you a job. They endure a lot of wear and are frequently bumped with the vacuum or bashed into with children's toys for example. 

How to fit baseboards

Our guide is here to talk you through the process in 10 simple steps, whether you're decorating one room or renovating a whole house.

1. Measure up

Use a tape measure to work out the length of baseboard you need and then add 20 percent on to the total as a contingency. Baseboards can be ordered in four-plus meter lengths so if you have long walls and would prefer not to have unnecessary joins then bear this in mind when you source your materials. 

2. Mark the baseboard

Mark clearly on each piece of baseboard which side you want facing into the room and which way up you want it to avoid any mistakes. This is particularly important when you order dual-sided boards like those shown in the image above. Each side has a different decorative detailing along the top so it's vital that you know which side should be facing into the room when you make your cuts. 

3. Start with straight cuts

Start with any boards that can go in with square-edged cuts at either end, for example, either side of a chimney breast. Measure and then use a mitre saw or mitre box to give a good, straight cut. If you are using a mitre box, be sure to clamp or screw the box down and clamp the baseboard to the box before you cut. The more sturdy the box is the more accurate and neat your cuts will be. 

Lightly sand the cut edges of the baseboards to smooth off any texture from the saw. as this will ensure the joins are as neat and as easy to hide as possible.

4. Attach first baseboard

Instant-grab adhesive is the most popular way of fixing boards, particularly in houses with plasterboard walls. Apply blobs and press the board onto the wall so the adhesive makes good contact, then wipe off any excess. If you want to screw the boards to a plasterboard wall, mark the position of the wooden studs and then put a pilot drill through the baseboard and the wall at these points.

If you are fixing them to a solid wall, run a pilot drill through the baseboard to mark the wall every 6cm. Drill and raw plug these holes. Countersink the holes with a larger drill bit so the screw heads will disappear when fixed. Screws should be long enough to go through the board and at least 3cm into the wall or studs behind. Use wood filler to cover the holes before painting baseboards.

5. Scribing baseboards for internal corners

The next board you fit needs to be ‘scribed’ so it slots into the first board you have attached to the wall. To do this, first cut a 45-degree angle in the end of the new piece of board using a miter saw or miter box. 

Then, use a coping saw to cut away the waste section. You’ll be left with the profile of the baseboard that will slot onto the section that is already attached to the wall. Practise with an off-cut first. This method is better than relying on two 45-degree cuts which only work when your corners are exactly 90 degrees and your walls are perfectly straight. 

6. Check and fit

Check the board you’ve just cut fits cleanly with the one you’ve already attached to the wall. If you’re happy, cut or miter the other end of the board and then attach to the wall. Plan the way your boards go in so that you’re always fitting a square end to a scribed end, never scribe both ends.

7. External corners

Where the boards meet on an external corner, miter both pieces at a 45-degree angle to create a neat join. Measure both boards to the corner and then mark this length on the back. Place the first board on the miter, line the saw, set at 45 degrees, up with the mark you made, and cut.

8. Cutting external angle

Make sure you cut the second board so that the 45-degree angle is in the opposite direction so that they meet. Create the opposite cut by moving a miter saw to the other side of its axis.

9. Adjustments

Always fit mitred external corners in pairs so you can adjust them to fit together accurately, rather than attaching one and then trying to cut another to fit.

10. Fill gaps

Once complete, fill any gaps between the wall and the top of the baseboard with decorator’s caulk and then run a damp finger along the join for a neat finish. Allow to dry before painting.

Remember to clean baseboards regularly to enhance your home's decor scheme!

What if my baseboards aren't long enough?

If your baseboards aren't long enough to run from corner to corner you will need to add a join along the wall. Ideally, joins should be positioned so they are hidden from view in the least prominent position possible, behind furniture (like a sofa or bed for example). If you need to join any pieces along a straight wall, the best way to do this is by using what's known as a Scarf Joint, this is where you cut the end of each piece you are joining at 45 degrees (in the same direction) so one piece slides over the other. Add some grab adhesive to the join and wipe off any excess with a damp cloth. You can add a nail or two to secure the seam and prevent the boards from moving out of position. Once the glue has dried, sand the seam of the joint until smooth, remove any dust and the joint will be ready for priming.

It’s all about the accessories. That’s the key to making a house a home isn’t it? But is there anything more satisfying than using things from around your home that are unused, useless and no longer needed and transforming them into something amazing? 

Yes, there is! It’s doing that and barely spending any money on it at all. If that’s your bag and you’re in the market for a brand new table to prop up your coffee cup then read on and have a go at this super simple make that will cost a fraction of the price a coffee table you might find in the shops.

Time and cost

Difficulty rating: Easy!

Time: around an hour, plus time for drying 

Cost: You can make this simple DIY project as cheap as chips by shopping your home and using a spare piece of wood, old poster tubes, leftover paint or a tester pot and a few screws. If you haven‘t got any of those things then to keep costs down head to a wood recycling center. All in, if you need to buy things you’re looking at around $15/£15.

How to make a coffee table with wood and cardboard tubes

The most important thing about making your table is the legs because you need to make sure they are the same size so the table is sturdy and not wonky. I’ve used leftover poster tubes which were already the right size for a small table so I didn’t need to cut them. You can of course cut them to size, just be sure to measure twice before you cut them and ideally, have a pal hold them steady while you do it so you know you do it accurately. 

You need the lids of the tubes to attach the legs to the table top but its best to leave the lids on the bottom too as it will make the table more sturdy. They will be painted over so won't be noticeable.

1. Measure your wood and cut it to size

Choose the size of table you would like, I’ve gone for 60 x 40cm (24 x 16 inches) here but the super thing about making your own table is that you can select the size that suits you and your space. 

Once you’ve chosen your size, measure your wood with a tape measure and mark where you need to cut with a pencil. Make sure the line is straight using either an old piece of wood like a wooden batten, a spirit level like this one from Amazon Basics or a ruler and then cut it using a hand saw. 

When you’re cutting the wood make sure you’re holding it steady or have someone hold it for you so it doesn’t slip. Also check that your fingers are out of the way! 

2. Draw a guide for attaching your table legs   

While we won’t attach the legs yet, we’re going to mark out where we want them because we need to use the points of the corners to make sure each leg is in the same place.

Firstly, take your ruler, spirit level or piece of wood (anything to make a straight line) and draw diagonally across the table from corner to corner, making sure you draw right from point to point. When you’ve finished you will have a cross marked across the table top. Now, choose where you want the legs; each needs to be the same distance from the corner of the table. Take care not to place the legs too near to the center because the table will topple over (I did 8cm/3" for mine).  Grab your tape measure and measure your chosen distance along the diagonal line you’ve drawn (this will ensure all of the legs are screwed in at the same angle), from the tip of each corner. We’ll come back to this once we’ve finished the table top. 

3. Draw a guide to round off the corners of your table

It’s important to round off the corners of your table top, firstly it makes it look much more fabulous and secondly, it is way safer, especially if you have kids that are around and may knock themselves on it. You want to make sure that each corner is rounded the same way and to the same size so you’re going to draw a guide to help with this. 

To draw the guide, use the circular lid of your cardboard tube as a template. A corner at a time, place the lid and draw around the side of it with your pencil. This will mark a curve that can act as a guide for where you want to saw and sand each corner. Make sure each curve that you draw is the same distance from the corner so they look even.

4.  Cut and sand the corners and edges

Once you have marked a guide for cutting each corner, use your saw and cut each corner slowly, cutting straight across the highest point of the curve that you’ve drawn. This will take off the point of the corner; you will now need to sand the rest of the point off in order to round them. It’s best to use a mouse sander like this one from Black and Decker which will make a quick job of it. You can also sand each edge of the table to make them a little rounder which will give it a nice finish. Now your table top is finished!

5. Make a starter holes to attach your table legs

Using your awl (which is a handy tool that pokes holes) make a hole as a starter to screw in your legs. To do this, place the awl on the spot that you have marked for each leg on your table top and press firmly down, repeat this for each corner. Then, place the awl in the centre of each lid and press firmly down. You will now have starter holes for each leg, making it easier to screw them in.

6.  Attach the table legs

You’re going to attach the lid of the cardboard tube to the table top and then attach the tube to the lid. To do this, take a lid and place it over the mark you made; the top of the lid needs to be facing the table top. Place the screw (this assortment from Mr Pen is super handy) into the hole and use a washer if you need to, to make it tighter. 

Screw the screw in gently to avoid piercing the table, if the screw does go through to the other side slightly, unscrew it by reversing your drill and sand off the top of the table, gently to avoid damaging the wood. Now pop the tube back onto its lid and repeat for each leg, once the last tube is back on you now have your table!

7.  Decorate your table 

Now, your table is all done and you can make it look a million dollars! Be sure to wipe it down before you decorate it so you get a smooth finish and don’t have any dust in the paint. I’ve decided to keep it simple but you can choose to go with whatever decoration you like. 

When you choose what to decorate your table with, bear in mind that you need something suitable for both wood and cardboard. I’ve gone for cream spray paint like this one from Rustoleum for a cheap, quick and easy makeover that looks fab in any space. You could choose to use paint or even mix materials, using paint on the table top and wrapping brown string around each leg for a more boho look. Alternatively, if you want to make it fun you could paint the top of the table and add a decoupage before finishing with PVA glue to seal it. 

Then you’re all done! Give yourself a high-five! You just made your own table by shopping your home, or at most, for the same price as a couple of coffees!