The Brooklinen weighted blanket is a particularly stylish pick that’s just the right size for a single person, and since I absolutely love Brooklinen sheets, I was eager to try the blanket out for myself. 

Weighted blankets are designed to deliver deep pressure stimulation, which makes you feel like you’re wrapped up in a tight hug, and many people (myself included) find that they help relieve stress and anxiety. The Brooklinen weighted blanket weighs 12 pounds, making it a fairly lightweight option, and it comes in several stylish colors, including seasonal options that rotate every few months. 

I’ve dealt with anxiety all of my adult life, and weighted blankets are one of my go-to methods of relaxation when I’m having a hard day. After a week of testing, here’s what I thought about the Brooklinen Weighted Blanket and whether it’s worth buying for your home. 

 What I thought of the Brooklinen weighted blanket 

I’ve tested several weighted blankets over the past few years, and the Brooklinen weighted blanket is one of the most manageable options once you know how heavy a weighted blanket should be. Some weighted blankets— especially those that weigh over 15 pounds — are heavy and unwieldy, making it challenging to move them around your home. However, at just 12 pounds, the Brooklinen blanket was much more manageable to move around and adjust during the night, and I never felt like I was being squashed underneath it. 

The blanket offered a gentle amount of pressure that I found soothing when I was stressed or anxious (one of the best benefits of a weighted blanket), and it didn’t cause me to overheat, even though I tested it out during the summer. It was comfortable for sleeping or just relaxing on the couch, and it made for a stylish addition to my living space. 

There were a few things I didn’t love about the blanket, though. While its appearance is attractive, it’s definitely not the softest material. Additionally, the blanket can only be cleaned in a commercial washing machine, so there’s no way to launder it at home.

Brooklinen weighted blanket specifications

•  Dimensions: 48 x 72 inches 
•  Weight: 12 pounds 
•  Fabric: 160 GSM 99% cotton, 1% spandex crepe (face); 120 GSM washed cotton (back) 
•  Filling: Glass beads and polyester batting 

Unboxing the Brooklinen weighted blanket

The Brooklinen weighted blanket arrived in very simple packaging. Inside the shipping box, the blanket was packed in a clear plastic bag with handles — the type of bag that most comforters come in. It was obviously heavier than an average blanket, but I had no problem carrying it up to my bedroom. 

After unzipping the bag, the blanket was ready to go right out of the package. There’s no cover to install, so all I had to do was cut off the oversized care tag, start using it, and find somewhere to store the blanket.

Is the Brooklinen weighted blanket comfortable?

The top of the Brooklinen weighted blanket has a textured crepe-like pattern for visual interest, and the back is a smooth cotton fabric. The blanket has box stitching to keep its inner beads evenly distributed, as well as a thick edging around all four sides. I got the blanket in the seasonal color Fig, which is a muted purple. 

The first time I used the weighted blanket, I noticed that it was not particularly soft. The cotton fabric is smooth to the touch, but it’s not the type of material you’d want to curl up with on a cold winter day. While many weighted blankets have suede or fuzzy covers, this one is less tactile to the touch, which could be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on your preferences. 

When using the blanket, I really loved the gentle weight it provided. With heavier blankets, I sometimes get a bit claustrophobic and feel like I’m being smushed, but the Brooklinen’s lighter weight was calming without being overwhelming. It was also easy to adjust, even when I was lying down. The blanket is just big enough for one person to use — it’s roughly the size of a throw blanket, so it’s not big enough to cover the whole bed.

I used the Brooklinen weighted blanket overnight and while relaxing on the couch, and it definitely helped me to feel calm when I was stressed or anxious. The weight was evenly distributed across the blanket, and there was enough inner padding that it muffled any sound of the glass beads shifting. You aren’t able to feel the beads, either, which is nice. 

I was a bit nervous that the blanket would be too hot at night, as I was testing it during a particularly warm week, but to my surprise, the fabric is quite breathable and barely retains any heat. I loved that I was able to use the blanket without turning into a sweaty mess—a problem I’ve had with other weighted blankets in the past. 

Cleaning the Brooklinen weighted blanket

I share my home with two long-haired dogs and a mischievous cat, so I much prefer bedding that’s easy to clean. I was happy to discover that the Brooklinen weighted blanket doesn’t collect pet hair, even after my dog laid on top of it for a few hours, and it doesn’t seem to get static-y, either. 

However, if you do need to wash a weighted blanket due to odors or stains, it’s not an easy task. While some weighted blankets can be laundered at home, Brooklinen only recommends cleaning this product in a commercial washing machine—the oversized units you’d find at a laundromat. For occasional stains, the brand recommends spot cleaning. 

Is the Brooklinen weighted blanket right for you?

The Brooklinen weighted blanket is a good choice if you’re looking for a lighter, breathable option to use in the summer. Its 12-pound weight offers gentle pressure without being overwhelming, and it’s easier to adjust and move around than other weighted blankets. While not the softest material ever, the cotton fabric has the added bonus of being highly breathable, so it can be used in warm weather without making you feel too hot. Plus, the blanket itself is quite attractive thanks to its trendy colors and textured fabric, and it will add to the decor in any space. 

There are a few things to keep in mind before you purchase this blanket, though. For one, it’s only available in a 12-pound weight, which may not be substantial enough for some people. Additionally, the blanket is inconvenient to wash and will require a trip to the laundromat, unlike other weighted blankets, which have removable covers or can be laundered at home. 

How we tested the Brooklinen weighted blanket

Brooklinen sent me the weighted blanket, and I tested it in my home for just over a week before writing this review. I evaluated the blanket on the following criteria: 

• Unboxing: I looked at how easy the blanket was to unpackage and set up, noting whether it was ready to use out of the box. Some weighted blankets must be washed before use, and others need to have their covers put on. 
• Weight: I used the weighted blanket for sleeping, as well as lounging around the house, and I evaluated how its weight felt during use. Was it too light? Too heavy? I also noted how the weight made me feel and whether it helped or hindered my sleeping. 
• Comfort: As with any blanket, it’s important for weighted blankets to be comfortable to use. I noted whether the fabric was soft if I could feel the inner glass beads, and how well it regulated temperature during use.
• Cleaning: It can be tricky to wash a weighted blanket, so I carefully reviewed the brand’s recommended care guidelines and whether they require special supplies and could be done at home.  

Looking for a celeb-approved buy? We found the weighted blanket Olivia Rodrigo can't live without, plus three budget-friendly alternatives. It's great if you're in the market for something with a chunky knit texture to add to your weighted blanket collection. 

One of Keyanna Bowen's favorite expressions is "You have not because you ask not."

That's often the case with rental renovations. We assume a glow-up is not in the cards because we're not stationed in our "forever home." However, in order to be a good tenant, you should be proactive and approach your landlord with a few aesthetic suggestions here and there.

If you've been dying for a kitchen makeover, are in need of a few bathroom updates, or simply want to make apartment living feel a little more permanent, Bowen — a designer and the founder of East + Lane—will help walk you through the process. 

"I’m a true believer that you’re home environment is the most important environment that will affect your well-being and quality of life," she says. "If there’s any place to make an investment in, it is your home."

Renters, it's time to make your space feel more like you. 

How to pull off rental renovations with your landlord

Though the process could seem intimidating, a little research and planning go a long way. Here's how to get started on that kitchen cabinet re-do or the wood accent wall you've been dreaming about. (Psst: make sure to add these five must-have DIY gadgets to your toolbox.) 

1. Start Planning

As much as we appreciate a good Pinterest board, you're going to have to take your planning up a notch. Find imagery, make budget predictions, and factor in labor costs before you approach your landlord with your renovation suggestions. (It goes without saying but you'll need his or her permission to move forward.) 

Though there's certainly a fear factor with approaching the property owner, Bowen notes that a little TLC is in everyone's best interest, so don't sweat the conversation.

"I think a lot of landlords are now seeing that trend that more and more of their tenants are coming to them and wanting to make updates, and it’s such a win-win situation," she says. "You’re adding value to the property."

2. Put everything in writing

After you speak to the landlord about your ideas — and present the proper materials — Bowen says to put everything in writing. When working on her rental property, she added terms to her lease agreement so that she was protected in a variety of areas, including:

• Receiving her security deposit in full 
• Getting first rights refusal on the property, should it go up for sale
• Not being fiscally responsible for anything the landlord wishes to change 
• Not being subjected to a rent increase.

Whether you're paying for half the project, the whole project, or if you're deducting an amount off your rent each month, do make sure financial specifics are detailed in writing as well so that all parties know what to expect moving forward.

3. Start small

"Everyone will have different skill levels and comfort levels with the projects they want to tackle, so that’s the first thing to think about," Bowen says. 

Before you divvy up your time and finances, start with smaller projects that don't require as much sweat equity. What are the cheapest changes with the biggest impact?"

"Nine times out of ten, that’s painting, taking out a light fixture, or swapping out the hardware," Bowen says. "There are so many little fixes like that can change the way a space looks and feels without you having to spend a lot of money or rip out anything."

Even better? You can take a lot of those goods to your next place!

4. Don't disregard the furniture

Though we might feel inclined to furnish rentals with hand-me-downs or inexpensive items — and of course, there's nothing wrong with that — don't be afraid to go for the piece that you're truly dying for, ones that will carry you from home to home.

"Get out of the concept of once I invest in my dream home that’s when I’ll get the sofa that I want,'" Bowen suggests. "Invest in those pieces that are quality items and stand the test of time."

While we're on the topic, you've seen the Wayfair couches we're swooning over, right?

Ready to get going with those redos? We wish you the best of luck!

When it comes to finding inspiration for decorating and styling your newly renovated home, owning a luxury interiors business is a distinct advantage.

Sam Marlow is the founder and director of online store Lime Lace, which started because she was so frustrated by ‘the lack of unique and creative’ home accessories available on the high street that she began sourcing and selling her own. Sam named it Lime Lace because she sells a mix of ‘fresh contemporary pieces and antique vintage pieces, and that is really the style of my house.’

We chatted with Sam to find out how she took an old-fashioned former farmhouse and transformed it into a relaxing family home that’s also a stunning showcase for her business…

'The building has a lot of history – it used to be part of a big period farm building. It was divided into separate houses and we have one of the centre ones with the original barn door. We’d been looking for a house for over a year.

'When we found this one I liked the age of it: the exposed stone and the beams. We’re in the middle of the countryside with fields to the front and back, but it’s only 10 minutes to Ilkley and 15 minutes to Harrogate. The village we’re in has a school and a pub and that’s about it, but it’s got a lovely feel to it.'

'It’s very rare for properties to come up for sale in the village and we had to fight to get it. In the end there were three of us who had to do silent bids, it was that much in demand. It was stressful because you don’t know what you’re up against. And the farmer selling kept changing his mind. We were really lucky to get it – there were quite a few tears at the end.'

'I’ve got a background in property development, starting in an estate agent’s after university, then designing show apartments and moving into interior design. I’d done projects of my own before the house but for a few years I was looking for something I could put my stamp on. It was in a bit of a state when we bought it; very run down and not a very pretty property. I literally felt like pulling everything out and starting again.'

'When we moved in, I found out I was pregnant, so we needed another bedroom. We did a small side extension and created a downstairs bedroom and toilet. The kitchen space was here but it was very old-fashioned. We ripped the floor out and levelled it to put a new floor and underfloor heating in. We put in bi-folding doors to create the inside/outside look I wanted. I also had the patio decked and raised. It was Yorkshire stone and I know it’s sacrilegious to get rid of it, but it wasn’t the modern look that I wanted.'

'We did the decorating and painting, but the main structural items we did get the professionals in to do, and I sourced the materials. When we moved in, the bathroom was the most important room to get done first because I was pregnant and had two young children. I’m obsessed with baths – when you’re pregnant there’s nothing better – but we just had a toilet and a sink! We’d go to the gym to have a shower while the building work was going on. 

'It was quite difficult when we didn’t have a kitchen for about three months –  we ate, slept and socialised in our master bedroom. We only just finished in 2021. We did the main bits that needed to get done, but then I wanted to take my time with the other rooms, so it’s been a good four or five years.'

'The garden was a fabulous space to have during lockdown. James did a lot of it; he levelled the garden and built the seating area. He’s been working on it for four years because he could only work weekends, but over lockdown he really knuckled down. We like to have a lot of parties, and I love being outdoors, so I wanted a space that pulled you outside. We can fit a good 20 people on the decking area, it’s that large.'

'Though the work is finished, I’m always changing up accessories and artwork; not the big things, just the little things. My husband comes home and goes, "Oh, where’s that gone?"

'But when I walk through the door I do have that sense of relief that I can just close the door and shut away the stresses of the day and just feel really comfortable. It was worth all the stress around buying it and then renovating. This house represents us exactly. We didn’t compromise on our choices or our style, and it’s just a real haven to come back to.'

Gaining permitted development rights for extensions means that you can tackle projects such as extensions or loft conversions without having to apply for planning permission, so you will need a little less paperwork and you should make a slight cost saving also.

Generally, it should speed up the whole process a little. Extending under permitted development rights is entirely possible to do under the current rules however it is important to be aware of the rules as well as the fact that permitted development rights do often change. They changed most recently in December 2021 (taking effect in January 2022) and planning departments will need a little time to get to grips with the changes. 

Whether you’re considering building a single storey extension or double storey extension at the back of your house, you live in England, and you plan your extension carefully, you may well be able to avoid having to make planning application, building under permitted development rights instead.

Follow our expert guide to find out how to achieve your extension project under permitted development rights.

What are permitted development extensions?

Under current permitted development rights for extensions (PD), you can plan and build a structure in the following ways without planning permission, as long as you adhere to certain guidelines.

If you are planning a rear extension, it may extend by 3 meters from the original house (or 4 meters if it is a detached house). It should be less than 4 meters in height (or less than 3 meters if it is within 2 meters of a property boundary). 

If you are planning and designing a side extension, it can be up to half of the width of the original dwelling and may also project up to 4 meters in height (or 3 meters if it is within 2 meters of a property boundary). All side extensions of one storey will require planning permission.

If you are looking at a wraparound extension (a combination of side and rear) it is unlikely that this will fall under permitted development due to the restrictions in place. If you are adding a double storey extension, it mustn’t take up more than 50% of the width of the original house and can’t be taller than the highest part of your existing roof. It also; mustn't include windows in the wall or roof slope of the side elevation in the additional storeys and you can only use these rights on homes that currently have two storeys. The work can’t include verandas, balconies or raised platforms, chimneys, or any alteration to the roof of the existing house  

Consider, too, that if the roof of a double storey extension connects to your existing roof you will need to deduct the volume of the extension roof from any volume allowance you have in place for a loft conversion (for attached houses there is a loft dormer allowance of 40 cubic metres, and 50 cubic metres for detached properties; under PD, a two storey extension could have a roof element of 10 to 35 cubic metres). Any upper floor window in a wall or roof slope of a side elevation of a double storey extension must be non-opening and obscure-glazed, unless the opening parts are more than 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which it is installed.

If you are adding a loft conversion, you can do so by up to 50m³ in a detached house and semi detached houses. The development must not include a window in any wall or roof slope forming a side elevation of the dwelling house and the roof pitch of the principal part of the dwelling must be the same as the roof pitch of the existing house. In addition, it may have side windows that are obscured/frosted and you will need permission to add a dormer window on a roof elevation that faces the road. 

Adding a porch can come under permitted development, also. Bear in mind too that:

• The extension must be built in accordance with the approved details, and use materials of a similar appearance to the rest of the house (confirm this with your local authority). This does not apply to conservatories;
• The roof pitch of the extension must mimic that of the original house;
• All extensions and outbuildings must not cover more than 50 per cent of the original garden area;
• Any additions to your property since 1948 count towards your permitted development allocation, so it's important to do your research first. 

See planningportal.co.uk for full conditions, and always double-check with your local council as each one can differ slightly in its approach.

In addition, though permitted development rights are managed centrally by the government, councils can choose to remove some of your permitted development rights by issuing an 'Article 4' direction. This will mean that you must submit a planning application for work which normally does not need one, so it is always worth checking in advance.

In some areas of the country, permitted development rights are more restricted. This includes:

• Conservation areas;
• National Parks;
• Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty;
• World Heritage Sites
• The Norfolk or Suffolk Broads

In all cases, whatever your extension type and even if you fall within all these guidelines, it's vital that you check with your local authority that the specific project you are planning falls within permitted development rights before work begins.

The process of extending under permitted development

There is a process, referred to as ‘prior approval’ that applies to larger single-storey rear extensions. These are extensions that extend beyond the rear wall of the original house (the house as it was first built; or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date) by:

• Over four and up to eight meters for detached houses;
• Over three and up to six meters for all other houses

If you want to build an extension this size then ‘prior approval’ must be sought from the local planning authority. They will then implement a neighbour consultation scheme. This process, done through your local authority, is to allow neighbours to be consulted, requiring a written description, with key dimensions and a to-scale site plan, to be submitted.

Prior approval does not automatically mean the development can proceed, as it does not negate any overriding interests such as restrictive covenants and easements, including rights of way and right to light, so always check title deeds. Listed buildings will also require listed building consent.

What to do if your neighbours object to your extension

If your adjoining neighbours do not object to your extension within the 21 day consultation period, the council will issue an permitted development rights approval notice. There is no application fee and the local authority has 42 days to respond from the date received. 

If neighbours do object, the council will consider the impact on the amenity of their property and decide whether it is reasonable to build an extension without planning permission. If the application is refused, there is an appeals process.

Can you add an extension under permitted development to all property types?

Permitted development rights for extensions apply to dwelling houses, not flats, so if you live in a ground floor apartment, for example, and want to extend the room at the back of the property, you will need to apply for planning permission.

Permitted development rights may also be restricted or removed by the local authority by planning conditions that were applied by a previous approval.

Bear in mind that the back of a property is taken as the original rear wall, or as the building stood on 1 July 1948, so this could affect the size of extension allowed, or if permitted development is applicable. If the original wall has changed, check what’s allowed with your local authority.

Permitted development and outbuildings

Not strictly an adjoining extension, outbuildings, whether a summerhouse for garden lounging or a home office at the end of the garden, nevertheless add extra living space that counts towards your home's overall square footage.

Permitted development rules for these type of extensions don't just cover sheds and summerhouses, but also playhouses, greenhouses and garages and sauna cabins. Plus, and this may surprise you, they also include kennels, enclosures, such as tennis courts, swimming pools and even ponds.

These structures are generally covered by permitted development, dependent on a few conditions, such as eaves height being limited to 2.5m, and overall roof height to 4m with a dual pitched roof or 3m for any other roof. You can find all the exceptions and rules on the government's dedicated page. And, of course, it's always worth speaking directly to your local planning department before you consider extending without planning permission.

What is a Lawful Development Certificate?

If you are adding more space under permitted development rights for extensions, it's a good idea to apply for a Lawful Development Certificate (LDC). 

A lawful development certificate provides proof that your project is allowed under permitted development and doesn’t need planning permission. It shows your extension is within the rules of permitted development, which can really help when it comes to selling your home because it certifies that the work you have done is allowed.  

Find out more on the government's LDC page.

Planning permission, also known as planning consent, is the formal permission from a local authority for the erection or alteration of a building. Planning permission is something you'll almost certainly need if you're considering a major project – and may need if you're planning an extension or dramatic house renovation. It is also required for a change of use of buildings or land. Here, we take you through the essentials of planning permission. 

So, if you're extending a house or approaching a house renovation find out everything you need to know about planning permission.

Planning permission vs permitted development 

As we have mentioned, planning permission is essentially agreement from your local council that you can undertake certain work. It is in place to make sure that the work that people undertake is in line with the area they live in, doesn’t cause damage to the local area, things of historic importance or negatively impact neighbours. Let’s face it, none of us would be overly enamoured if our neighbours built a huge and unsightly extension that overlooked our house.

Conversely, work can also fall under what is called ‘Permitted Development’. This is a scheme set out by the government to make development to homes or buildings simpler. It essentially sets out criteria for work that can be carried out without permission and was recently expanded as outlined below.

Do I need planning permission?

As you will see, there are a lot of detailed rules and so it is essential to check first with your local council first because there are certain nuances that can mean permission is needed and they vary from authority to authority. If you don’t think planning permission is needed but you want to check, then it is worth a quick chat with your local planning officer; you can find their details on your Local Authority website. If they won’t chat to you for free you can always book a meeting with them. These start at around £150 and if it is a simple request then you should only need one meeting. It is important to note that local authorities are likely still wrangling with the new rules which could add additional complexity if you are trying to take the permitted development route.

It is always worth checking with your local council to find out whether you need planning permission for your project, be that a kitchen extension or increasing your garage space, and what is likely to be accepted because rules change locally and differ between different areas of the UK. You can also double-check the government's planning portal to see restrictions. It is important to note that it is your responsibility to apply for planning permission (or not) before work starts and you can be fined or even made to undo the work if you don’t have the correct permissions so make sure you’re clear on what your local authority requires.

What doesn't need planning permission?

So, what can fall under permitted development rather than need planning permission? 

If you’re planning a house extension, it is possible that you could do this under the permitted development rules. Permitted development for extensions can include:

• Garage conversions that are internal and don’t enlarge the building are also covered (but not where you are changing a detached garage into a living space as this could be construed as building a new dwelling)
• Loft conversions (subject to certain criteria)
• Building a new storey or flat onto your property

However, flats and maisonettes do not fall under PD, so planning permission is required. Planning permission is also more likely to be required in conservation areas, National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, but not in the Green Belt.

How much does planning permission cost?

Planning permission application fees vary depending on the nature of the application – you can use the government's planning fee calculator to get an idea of what you'll need to budget. Welsh authorities have a different fee schedule, and applications for listed buildings or those in conservation areas don’t incur a fee.

How to apply for planning permission

You'll need planning permission for significant extension and remodelling projects, and you can apply for planning permission either through your local authority or online through the planning portal. Usually, your local authority will have a guide on how to prepare a valid application so it is always worth checking their site. Ordinarily, an application needs three main things in order to submit it:

• Planning permission forms: these are managed centrally by the planning portal and cost £60 to apply online but each local authority will have guidance on how to fill these in.
• Plans and drawings: again, these will differ depending on the work you want to do but normally you will need a site plan (a plan that shows the development in relation to the boundaries and existing on-site buildings), a location plan (showing the location of the development site in the context of the surrounding area), existing and proposed floor and roof plans, and existing and proposed elevations (plans showing the front, back and side of the house from the outside).
• Supporting documents: these can vary significantly and can include things such as bat surveys, structural surveys, flood risk assessments and sunlight assessments and so it is always best to check your local authority website for a list of requirements in your area.

You can check your local planning portal to see whether your property has been through planning before, this is a useful check as prior applications can be a guide to indicate what may or may not be approved.

How long does it take to get planning permission?

Local authorities will usually advise of a target determination date when validating your application. For small-scale projects, they normally aim for eight weeks from validation to decision.

How long does planning permission last?

As a general rule, and unless stated otherwise in the letter notifying you of the decision, three years. This means that you should start work within that three-year window, or you will need to re-apply. 

If your planning consent is about to expire, you do have options. You can make what is known as a material start to the project, as you only need to start rather than finish the project within three years. There aren’t hard and fast rules as to what a material start is and it depends on the work that has been approved; for example if you are starting a loft extension (which you may be able to do under permitted development) then you could start the project by adding in a Velux window. If you are starting an extension, it's usually assumed to be where you submit a Building Control application to dig and pour the foundations. An inspection by Building Control will prove the start date of the build. 

You can also let your application lapse and apply again but there is no guarantee you will get approval this time.

If you’re lucky to receive an approval for your planning application, be 
sure to make note of the conditions attached, as they are just as important. Most approved applications come 
with notes, such as requiring the local authority to approve the exterior materials before commencement of work, or perhaps having sign off on 
a landscaping scheme.

You’ll need 
to formally apply to discharge these conditions and receive a letter to confirm so, as failure to do this will invalidate your approval. 

Planning permission for extensions: making changes to your design

‘First, it’s important to try to understand exactly why the planning application was rejected,’ says architect Hugo Tugman. ‘The proposals may be largely acceptable, but simply contain a detail that the local authority can’t approve, in which case resubmitting a new application that has been amended accordingly should be enough to get the permission that you require.

‘It may, however, be that what you are proposing is fundamentally outside the planning policy or guidance the planners are working with. If that is the case, you really need to understand what these policies are and redesign so that your scheme falls within these parameters.

‘The third possibility is that you feel your scheme was within the policy guidance, but the planning department has made an unreasonable interpretation of the rules and refused it. In this final case it may well be worth going to an appeal, where an inspector (not local authority) makes an independent assessment of whether policy has been applied correctly and reasonably.’

Generally, if you wish to appeal, you have 12 weeks to appeal from the date on the decision letter that you got from your local planning authority. There is no fee for appealing.

What if the planning application is turned down?

‘First, it’s important to try to understand exactly why the planning application was rejected,’ says architect Hugo Tugman. ‘The proposals may be largely acceptable, but simply contain a detail that the local authority can’t approve, in which case resubmitting a new application that has been amended accordingly should be enough to get the permission that you require.

‘It may, however, be that what you are proposing is fundamentally outside the planning policy or guidance the planners are working with. If that is the case, you really need to understand what these policies are and redesign so that your scheme falls within these parameters.

‘The third possibility is that you feel your scheme was within the policy guidance, but the planning department has made an unreasonable interpretation of the rules and refused it. In this final case it may well be worth going to an appeal, where an inspector (not local authority) makes an independent assessment of whether policy has been applied correctly and reasonably.’

Generally, if you wish to appeal, you have 12 weeks to appeal from the date on the decision letter that you got from your local planning authority. There is no fee for appealing.

What are Section 106 agreements?

These are legal agreements that run alongside some planning applications. They allow local authorities to secure monetary contributions to offset the impact of the proposal or control restrictions on the planning consent being sought. Normally, Section 106 agreements are reserved for larger applications, however, some local authorities are now using them to secure affordable housing contributions for developments of single plots, so it’s worth checking the local policy.

Will a tree preservation order be a problem?

It would be advisable to contact the council to ascertain whether the tree has a preservation order on it. If you are in a conservation area, you will also need to get special consent.

5 more key notes on planning permission

• Most planning decisions should take no longer than eight weeks from the point of application.
• The objections of neighbours and local people may well not have any impact on the final decision.
• If you think you are going to get a refusal, you can withdraw your application at any time up to the day itself, and resubmit free of charge.
• You can submit an infinite number of planning applications on any one site — and choose which to use, as long as it is current.
• You can make an application on any piece of land in the country, without having to own it

Planning permission not needed? Apply for a Lawful Development Certificate

If you are certain that your project does not need planning permission, but want to be able to prove it is lawful in future – perhaps when you're moving house – it is worth applying to your local authority for a certificate of lawful development. 

An application needs to be submitted to your local authority. The forms are typically the same across all local authorities and can be accessed, completed and uploaded via planningportal.co.uk. 

You will need to submit scaled plans of your proposal and a location plan based on an up-to-date ordnance survey map. 

Don't forget the other paperwork: building regulations and insurances

Remember that getting planning approval is not the only legislation you need to adhere to. Proposed works will also need to conform to building regulations if they include structural alterations. So repair work won't need to, but new building work – including extensions – will need to be checked.

You also need to remember that if you are extending your home, it will not be covered by standard buildings insurance. Extensions and extensive renovations are often excluded from buildings insurance if you are altering the structure of your home. You will need specialist site insurance to cover the existing insurance and the new works being carried out until completion.

• See our specialist site insurance and renovation insurance products from our sister title Homebuilding & Renovating in association with Self Build Zone

After three major home renovation projects over 12 years, Kate and Adam Lewis finally have the sociable family home they dreamed of. They met in London when Kate was at university, and bought a new-build in Widnes, Cheshire. Then, in 2007, they found a three-bedroom 1930s semi closer to their jobs in Chester. ‘It felt bigger than our old house and we liked the character features like picture rails and parquet flooring,’ says Kate. ‘But it was at the height of the market, so we had to stretch ourselves.’

Before

The previous owner had already gained planning permission for a fourth bedroom, but the couple felt their budget wouldn’t stretch to a two-storey extension. Instead they had the conservatory and coal shed demolished to create a single-storey rear extension. 

‘This enabled us to relocate the galley kitchen to the back of the house and open it up to the dining room with a small sofa area,’ says Kate. ‘The old kitchen was split to become a downstairs toilet and small room that held the washing machine, desk and toys.’

After

Living in the mess wasn’t easy, though. ‘What sticks with me was washing up
in the bath when I was almost nine months pregnant and coming home from hospital with my first child on the day the builders finished,’ remembers Kate.

Five years later, thanks to a bigger than expected windfall from Kate’s company share save scheme, a side extension was suddenly on the cards again. The five-month extension project created two children’s bedrooms upstairs, while the former box room became the couple’s en suite. Below they gained a playroom, utility and a room that could be knocked through to the kitchen at a later date when funds allowed.

‘I used to call it the non-room, but it was handy when we got our kittens, for kids’ parties or for working out.’ At this stage the old windows were replaced to match the new, and the boiler was upgraded along with two hot water tanks in the loft.

Before

After

After three years of intensive saving, it was time to say goodbye to the non-room and remove the original back wall to create a large open-plan kitchen diner come lounge area with bi-fold doors. ‘It was essentially knocking four rooms into one,’ says Kate. ‘We originally wanted the kitchen to be where the sofas are now, but the builders said it would be too expensive to move the services. It still works really well as a sociable space, though, and the sofas get moved around for children’s parties.’

Sadly Kate’s sister passed away a month into the build, but the new space has helped them spend quality time together as a family. ‘It means my parents, my sister’s children and us can be together without it just having to be a day trip, since we live two-and-a-half hours apart,’ she says.

Kate’s interior style has evolved over the years. ‘It was very plain and cream to begin with, but I’ve gradually got bolder with colour, pattern and paper,’ she says. ‘I didn’t get into Instagram until Covid hit, so I’ve been exposed to a lot more design ideas in the last couple of years. Next, I’d like to recover the sofas with patterned velvet fabric and add more wallpaper somewhere.’

Two years later, the family bathroom was replaced, the hallway painted blue and the front sitting room given a fresh look with a new gas fire, refurbished parquet flooring and alcove cupboards. Finally, with the children getting older and the need to work from home during lockdown, the playroom was split into an office and snug with a pocket door in between. ‘It’s used much more now,’ says Kate. ‘My husband works upstairs, so we have our own spaces.’

In retrospect, Kate admits she might have ended up with a different layout if the work had been done all at once. ‘I love it when you walk into a house and you can see right through to the back,’ she explains. ‘But we couldn’t justify moving the downstairs toilet that we’d installed during the first extension to accommodate that.’

Although Adam had a tight rein on the finances and they sold their old kitchen and conservatory on Ebay, the couple admit it wasn’t cost effective to do the work in so many phases. ‘We probably wouldn’t get the money back if we sold it,’ says Kate. ‘But this is our long term home, and we’re happy because we’re enjoying the space.’

If you like the idea of making use of the space the garage offers to enlarge your home, being aware of garage conversion costs is crucial.

Converting a garage is an easy way to add extra living space, but the garage might also be transformed into a room such as the home office you need, a guest bedroom and bathroom, a separate space for hobbies, or for entertaining, or it could bring you a larger kitchen.

But as with any home improvement project, when you’re turning a garage into a part of your home, it’s important to know what each element of the process costs so you can draw up a budget, and we’ve put together all the details here along with expert advice.

Garage conversion costs

Garage conversion costs will be influenced by the size of the garage, but also by what you want to use the space for with living spaces generally less expensive than kitchens or bathroom remodel costs, for example. But whatever you choose to do with the garage, the project should save money when compared to the cost of building an addition to your home.

‘On average, it costs $14,000 to convert a garage into a living space,’ says Rachel Zepernick, interior home expert at Angi. ‘If you’re thinking about converting your garage, you can expect to pay somewhere between $6,000 and $23,000, depending on the size of the garage, the materials you use and the type of room you’re creating.’

What are garage conversion costs per square foot?

What your garage conversion costs are on average per square foot depends on the type of garage you have: it’s a one car or two-car garage that’s being turned into a part of your home.

‘On average, it costs around $60 per square foot to fully finish a one-car garage and $85 per square foot to fully finish a two-car garage,’ says Rachel. ‘This includes the cost of materials, like flooring, windows and insulation, as well as labor and costs, and electrical, plumbing and HVAC hookups.’

Factors that influence garage conversion costs

As we’ve seen, garage conversion costs can vary quite widely, and there are a number of elements, including garage insulation, that play into what the final bill will be. 

‘Materials are one of the most important cost factors when converting your garage into a living space,’ explains Rachel. ‘You’ll likely need to insulate the space, depending on how you plan to use it, which costs about $1 per square foot. You may also need flooring, which can cost anywhere from $5 to $15 or more per square foot. 

‘Depending on the space, you may want to install windows, which usually cost $1,000 each. Don’t forget about any new furniture you’ll need to make the space livable. The quality of the materials you choose for each of these components will have a big impact on the total conversion cost.’

Budget for the input of the professionals you employ, too. ‘You should also consider labor costs when determining the cost of your garage conversion,’ advises Rachel. ‘You can expect to spend 15 to 20 per cent of the total project cost on labor but talk to some pros and gather actual quotes for a more accurate estimate.’

Permit costs

Don’t forget to consider any permit required when drawing up a budget. ‘You might need a permit to convert your garage into a living space, so budget around $1,000 for the conversion permit,’ says Rachel. ‘Permit costs vary by location and project, so check with your local pros and permitting offices to make sure you have an accurate estimate.’

Electrics, plumbing and HVAC

Build the costs for electrics, plumbing and HVAC into your budget; some will be influenced by how the extra space is going to be used. ‘You should budget around $400 for electrical hookups and $1,100 if you need to add plumbing to the space,’ say Rachel. ‘You’ll also probably want to add vents to take advantage of your home’s HVAC system, which will cost around $1,250.’

Cost of garage conversion interiors

The type of room you are creating will have a large influence on what you’ll pay in total for converting a garage because of the features the particular room will need.

‘If you’re aiming for a home office, you can expect to pay about $5,000,’ says Rachel. 

‘To convert your garage into a bedroom, you’ll likely end up paying between $15,000 and $25,000, depending on whether you want to add a bathroom to the new bedroom. 

‘If you want to convert the entire space into a bathroom, you could end up paying anywhere between $3,000 and $25,000, depending on how many features you want to add. 

‘You can also transform your garage into a kitchen, which tends to start around $6,000 but can go up to $50,000 or more. 

‘If you plan on having a lot of guests in your home, you can convert your garage into a guest house for an average of $22,000. 

‘You can also transform the space into a utility room for about $6,000 or an entertaining area for around $7,500.’

Ways to save on a garage conversion

There are ways to spend less on converting a garage while still ending up with a good design for the new space. 

‘You can easily save money on your garage conversion by choosing affordable materials,’ advises Rachel. ‘For example, you can save around $9 per square foot by opting for vinyl flooring instead of hardwood floors. 

‘Depending on the type of room you’re converting to, you can save money by omitting windows or using less expensive HVAC systems like window units or space heaters. 

‘Talk to your pro about your vision and your budget, and they can help you come up with a design that meets your expectations without breaking the bank,’ she recommends.

How much does it cost to convert a 2-car garage?

To convert a two-car garage, expect to pay around $85 per square foot to fully finish the room. Bear in mind that a number of factors play into how much you’ll pay, especially the type of room you are creating. Less expensive options include turning it into a home office, utility room or entertaining area, while transforming a garage into a high-end kitchen or a guest house can be the most expensive options.

Does converting your garage devalue your home?

A garage conversion typically won’t make your home worth less. ‘Converting your garage into a living space usually adds value to your home,’ explains Rachel. ‘People tend to value the amount of a home’s livable space, so converting your garage can actually get you an ROI of about 80 per cent on the project.’

If you’re planning your dream room, discovering new kitchen costs will be at the top of your agenda. Whether you‘re replacing an existing kitchen in the same space, or building on to your home and relocating the kitchen at the same time, being aware of likely costs will help you plan your project.

It’s not only important to know what the final bill might be, but also to understand what you should budget for the individual elements that are all part of your kitchen ideas so that you can get your design just right – and that’s where our guide comes in. We’ve got the details on what you should expect to pay for everything from cabinets to worksurfaces, appliances, sinks, and taps, as well as what total costs might be.

But whether you’re planning a large kitchen or a smaller room, and shopping in DIY stores or specialist kitchen retailers, it’s important to make the most of your spend and we’ve also got expert advice on how to make your money go further and maximize your spend right here. And you can check out the best kettles and best coffee machines when you’re done to add the perfect finishing touches.

How much does a new kitchen cost?

The good news is that a new kitchen design can cost as little as around £3,000. For that, you'll need to shop very smartly at a DIY store or Ikea for good-quality units that don't break the bank. 

This is for the units only, however, to which you will need to add the cost of the kitchen worktops, which will be from around £200 for laminate, which is likely to prove the lowest budget kitchen worktop option. If you’re buying new appliances you’ll need to add the cost of these, and fitting of the new kitchen – unless you have the DIY skills – is a cost to add on top, too.

Altogether, the average cost of a new kitchen in the UK is likely to be around £8,000.

How much does a new open-plan kitchen cost?

The cost of a new open plan kitchen really depends on your space. Are you going to have to knock down walls to create your open-plan layout? Add any new windows or doors? These kinds of jobs are where the extra cost will come in, and they can cost more than the kitchen itself. 

You might also need to build on to your existing home to create an open-plan kitchen so factor in kitchen extension costs as well as those of fitting out the room when planning your extension.

But if you are simply remodelling an already open plan space, the price will be similar to your average kitchen, so again anywhere from £3,000 upwards. But do bear in mind that an open-plan space tends to be larger than the average kitchen, and includes more elements that need to co-ordinate for a cohesive feel; this means the cost of refurnishing and accessorising the room will be incrementally greater.

What's the cost of individual elements of a kitchen?

The question how much does a new kitchen cost actually has many elements to it, as you'll need to consider all sorts of things such as cabinets and handles, worktops, appliances, sinks and taps. Your kitchen needs to last, so think value as well as price tags to make best use of your budget.

'The most important thing with kitchens is to make sure the carcasses of the units are rigid and are a minimum of 18mm thick,' says Rob Lessmann, founder of Design’d Living.

'Flat pack units will save you money on unit cost but your install costs will go up so it’s worth working out the difference and seeing if you can afford a better quality unit. 

'By going for a simple, handle-less design in matt or gloss you'll generally save money. Handles add a large cost to any design both for install and the cost of the handle itself. 

'You can save money on appliances by going mid-range rather than high end too. Think of those that you’ll use most and invest there, then look at slightly more reasonable options for the appliances you won’t use as often. 

'Sinks and taps can also provide cost savings and are often on offer, so shop around for the best discounts and see if they offer package options.'

Rob’s favourite worktops are quartz. 'It may cost more to start with but it will last,' he says. 'Worktops will start from £4,000 but will last the life of the kitchen.'

However, if you are on a tight budget, laminate work surfaces will prove cheaper, followed by wood. 'Stone will cost around £3,000 to £3,500 for a full kitchen,' says Malo Tasle, director at InHouse Inspired Room Design.

How much does a bespoke kitchen cost?

If you’re investing in a bespoke kitchen your costs will, of course, be higher. 

'How much to spend on a new kitchen will be down to personal circumstances,' says George Forsyth of Drew Forsyth & Co. 'As a guide, new kitchen costs are usually 5 to 10 per cent of the value of your home.'

For a £30,000 kitchen, for example, the budget would break down as follows, he explains:

Furniture £9,000 to £11,000 (30 to 35 per cent)

Worktops £4,500 to £6,000  (15 to 20 per cent)

Appliances £4,500 to £6,000 (15 to 20 per cent)

Sink and taps £300 to £1,500 (3 to 5 per cent)

Delivery and installation £4,500 to £6,000 (15 to 20 per cent)

22 ways to make a new kitchen cost less

So, you've finally decided a kitchen revamp is in order. You've spent hours on Pinterest creating board after board of new kitchens inspiration; you've been to every kitchen showroom in the country; you've meticulously planned exactly what you want... Then, you receive the final quote.

Turns out that unless you want to remortgage your house or never go on holiday again, you are going to have to make your dream new kitchen cost less. Thankfully, kitchens on a budget are possible – and there are some simple ways to achieve just that. 

1. Re-use materials to save on new kitchen costs

‘Most kitchen renovations start with the old kitchen going in a skip, but if you want to keep new kitchen costs to a minimum, think about what’s saveable,’ says experienced renovator Jason Orme.

‘In many cases the carcasses can be reused and, with a bit of work and new doors, will look as good as new. Countertops – particularly if they are solid granite or quartz – can be recut, saving you hundreds of pounds. ’If you have too few units, you may be able to buy more, or opt to use them on just one wall. Alternatively, consider using old units if you are planning a utility room too.’

2. Do the prep work yourself

You might want to DIY some of the preparation work to cut your spend. ‘If you can do some of the prep work yourself, this can save you a couple of days’ worth of work and will reduce the labour costs,’ says George Burrows, kitchen design expert at HomeHow. 

‘Consider doing things such as scraping wallpaper, removing cupboards, and taking down wall tiles.’

3. Reduce wastage

Just because your old kitchen is no longer to your taste, doesn’t mean it is scrap. If you’re not re-using existing materials such as floorboards, doors, radiators and units, they can be sold and the money can go towards your new kitchen costs. Try Ebay, Gumtree or contact your local reclamation yard.

How much might you gain by selling an old kitchen? ‘The valuation of your old kitchen will depend on several things: age, condition, original purchase price, brand and desirability,’ says Helen Lord, founder of Used Kitchen Exchange. 

‘As a cautious valuation guide, halve the original purchase price and take £1,000 off this figure for every year you have used it. So, a 10-year-old kitchen with an original purchase price of £25,000 could be worth £2,500 or more, but like most things in life, the higher the original value, the more desirable the brand or design, the higher the selling price.’

‘It’s true that one person’s trash is another one’s treasure,’ agrees Laura Crombie, brand development director of Real Homes, Homes & Gardens, Ideal Home, Livingetc and Gardeningetc.

‘We sold our old kitchen and appliances for £350, as well as our old furniture, to help pay for the replacements. It’s much better for the environment than things going to landfill.’

Reducing wastage could also reduce the cost of your new kitchen, as you may not need to pay for a skip or disposal. 

4. Be selective with expensive fittings 

Simply having a few investment pieces paired with more budget buys will help ease kitchen renovation costs but still up the quality of your space.

‘If you can’t afford to fit out your whole kitchen with bespoke units, consider commissioning just a central feature, such as a statement kitchen island, and make up the rest of the kitchen using standard, basic quality units to cut new kitchen costs,’ says experienced renovator Michael Holmes. ‘The same can apply to worktops – use granite or similar for the island and then cheaper timber or laminate elsewhere.’ 

5. Rethink existing kitchen space

Remodelling and re-using existing space can solve many of the frustrations you have with your inherited kitchen. ‘Modern requirements for utility rooms, drying rooms and even larders can often be satisfied by making use of what’s already there,’ says Orme.

‘The obvious merging of a dining and kitchen area by knocking through could easily add two metres of space for a walk-in larder or utility room, for instance. This takes the pressure off the new kitchen when it comes to kitchen storage and usability, reducing new kitchen costs and minimising disruption.’

6. Reduce structural alterations in a kitchen renovation

If you do not need to extend, then linking the old and new spaces so they flow seamlessly is not something to compromise on, but costs can often be reduced through thoughtful design.

‘For instance, retaining part of the existing walls or introducing a steel or concrete column can shorten spans and reduce the size and cost of the steel beams required,’ says Michael Holmes. 

Extending a house to get the new kitchen you want? ‘It’s better value to add a square-shaped extension with a simple pitched roof, instead of adding complicated curves and angles,’ he says.

7. Choose end-of-line or display kitchens to cut new kitchen costs

No one will ever know if your 'new kitchen' once stood in a showroom and you paid a bargain ex-display kitchen price.

‘If you’re extending, there may even be scope to design your space to suit an ex-display kitchen – and if you’re not, then the company will usually be able to add/remove a few units to make the kitchen work in your space,’ says Michael Holmes. End-of-line appliances, sourced online via specialist distributors, can also be real bargains.

8. Consider buying a used kitchen

As an alternative to an ex-display kitchen, think about opting for a used one. It could enable you to get a high-quality design that your budget wouldn’t stretch to if it were new. 

In order to ensure you will be happy with your purchase, inspect carefully. ‘If buying locally then always ask to view the kitchen prior to purchase or, if purchasing online, request lots of photos that show every angle and those that show details close up,’ says Helen Lord.

What about the size of the kitchen? ‘In the case of a pre-owned kitchen, buying one a little bigger than you need gives you far more flexibility with reconfiguration,’ says Lord.

9. Avoid moving utility meters and services

‘Unless it is an essential to radically alter the orientation or usability of a kitchen, try to keep the sink, dishwasher and cooker in the same position if costs are an issue,’ says Jason Orme.

‘That way, you’ll be minimising the amount of additional electrical, gas and plumbing work that is needed to realise the new design – and save hundreds of pounds in the process.’ And, if you can, avoid having to move your gas and electricity meters, as they cost £1,080-£1,320 each to relocate.

10. Shop smarter to cut new kitchen costs

It can be all too tempting to walk into a beautiful showroom filled with new kitchens, but when you’re designing a kitchen on a budget, you need to check that it offers the best value for money. ‘The more you can plan ahead, the more chance you’ll have to shop around,’ explains Jason.

‘The cost of kitchen units, worktops, doors, taps, sinks and cooker hoods varies wildly and if you can wait for sales and spend time researching prices you can save £1,000s on the total cost.’ 

Consider shopping with online-only retailers, which don’t have the same overheads as companies with showrooms and can therefore keep costs down; but always check reviews and ask to see samples of everything before you order.

Or, go for a ready-to-paint kitchen and paint the kitchen cabinets yourself to make your new kitchen cost less. Here are some of our firm favourite kitchen cabinet colour ideas for inspiration.

11. Get cabinet door savvy

You can reduce your spend by opting for less expensive door options to create the look you want. ‘Cabinetry and doors represent a big part of the budget when buying a new kitchen, but you can save money by carefully choosing the type of material used,’ explains Richard Turner, Pronorm’s national sales manager for the UK and Ireland.

‘Materials used on door frontals vary in price but still give you the freedom to create the look you want. For example, if you want a matt kitchen style, then choosing matt laminate doors will give a similar non-reflective tactile aesthetic to a more expensive matt lacquer option, saving around 25 per cent on your kitchen furniture in the process.’

12. Can you fit new kitchens yourself?

Installation of the kitchen itself can be a key contributor to new kitchen costs – typically installers estimate £50 per 60cm element, plus extras, meaning a typical kitchen can easily cost £1,500 to £2,000 to install. You can cut this cost by installing the units and doors yourself from flatpack, which any medium-skill DIYer should be able to manage. 

It’s also relatively easy to tile walls yourself to save on your kitchen renovation cost. ‘If you make sure that you have the right equipment to hand, properly prepare the surface you’re going to tile, and work carefully, tackling tiling can be a great way to save money when renovating your kitchen,’ says Harriet Goodacre, tile consultant at Topps Tiles.

Exceptions to the DIY rule? Always leave worktops and the electrical and plumbing elements to the professionals.

13. Upgrade a cheap kitchen carcass 

A recent trend in the world of kitchens, and definitely one that helps make a new kitchen cost less, is upscaling cheap kitchen carcasses from places like Ikea to give them a more expensive, bespoke look. Companies like Plykea and Husk make doors, drawers, worktops and more to fit Ikea's kitchen cabinets, but give your kitchen more of a handmade look. 

It's really easy too. Simply design your dream scheme using the handy Ikea Kitchen Planner Tool, then send to your upscaling company of choice with your pick of doors, drawer fronts, cover panel facades and worktops, and they will do the rest. All the fronts arrive complete with pre-drilled holes and fixing holes that make them as easy to assemble as the rest of your flat-pack kitchen. 

14. Mix vintage freestanding furniture with a new fitted kitchen

So you've had your heart set on a built-in, bespoke pantry cupboard or a gorgeous (but way too pricey) Welsh dresser? 

Instead of blowing half your budget on one piece, cut the costs of your new kitchen by buying them secondhand. You'll find some gorgeous, cheaper, pieces on places like eBay, Etsy, even Facebook Marketplace has some gems. 

Plus, we love the look of a few unique, freestanding pieces mixed into a new kitchen; it works particularly well if you are after a rustic, farmhouse kitchen look.

15. Add more worksurface space with a kitchen island

Need more worktop space in your kitchen? Consider a few kitchen island ideas – a much cheaper option than adding an extension or knocking down walls. 

‘An island can be compact – from around 1m by 1m – and still be really useful, and you can scale up from there depending on the size of your room,’ says Lucy Searle, editor-in-chief of Homes & Gardens. 

‘Bear in mind that an island does require sufficient space around it: cabinet doors, drawers, oven, and dishwasher doors opposite should open without obstruction, and the kitchen’s users need to move around safely. Factor in clearance of at least 800mm all round for the most compact island, and 1m or more for a larger version.’

If you really don’t have the space for a freestanding island? ‘You might want to consider integrating a seating nook into your kitchen,’ suggests Ruth Lavender, design expert at Benchmarx Kitchens and Joinery. ‘Incorporating a small bench into surrounding units can really maximise the area and positioning a small table in front can create a truly versatile feature. You don’t have to forgo storage either, as you can incorporate clever solutions beneath the seating area and in the surrounding space.’

But how much does a kitchen island cost? Find out more in our guide.

16. Repurpose parts of your old kitchen

This goes without saying for appliances. If your larger appliances still work, such as your fridge freezer, then keeping them rather than replacing is an obvious way to cut back on your new kitchen costs. 

It is possible to give appliances a new look, too. ‘Painting large kitchen appliances such as the refrigerator or a dishwasher is a fantastic way to upgrade an old kitchen appliance or change one to suit a new aesthetic: in a cottagecore kitchen, for example, an existing silver fridge may not quite fit in with the new look,’ says Michael Rolland, interiors expert and MD of The Paint Shed.

‘It is important, however, to make sure that the surface on the appliance, which is usually a high sheen, is prepped correctly and the appropriate and best kitchen paint is chosen.’

You can also repurpose or re-use parts of your old kitchen. Maybe your wooden worktop just needs a bit of TLC and you could upcycle it? You could also reuse it to create a kitchen island or a breakfast bar idea. The same goes for your kitchen doors: if you can't salvage them with a lick of paint, consider reusing them in a utility room or even your garage.

17. Shop the sales for your kitchen appliances 

Don't overlook the fact that buying new kitchen appliances is going to substantially up your new kitchen cost, so make the most of sales! 

Be on the lookout on big brands sites like Currys, John Lewis and AO.com because you can usually find deals all year round. Even if they aren't that obvious, search for clearance sections that are usually hidden away, sign up for newsletters so you know when sales are happening, or just keep an eye on our deals page.

18. Choose kitchen fitters wisely

Finding the right companies and tradespeople to work with could save you thousands, with even the same new kitchen cost varying between different builders. 

Most kitchens come in set styles – for instance, Shaker kitchens or handleless units – so, once you’ve chosen the look you want, get quotes from at least three different kitchen companies or fitters to ensure you're getting the best deal.

Remember, the cheapest may not be the best if not all of your requirements are met. Follow the same process with plumbers, electricians, tilers and, if needed, installers, to ensure best value for money. 

To find a good builder and avoid cowboy builders always ask for references from past clients and, if possible, visit homes where they have completed similar work. Finally, always get a written, itemised quotation so you know exactly what you will be paying.

19. Consider alternatives to a package service

‘Rather than going for a package service that includes design, the products and appliances, and installation, shop around,’ says Laura Crombie.

‘You can often find a local kitchen fitter who will install your units far cheaper than a big kitchen company will. And if your DIY skills are up to it, consider installing the units yourself. Don’t attempt to fit worktops, though, it’s a specialist job and you need to know when to call in the experts.’

20. Know where to spend and where to save on a new kitchen

Where to save your money in a new kitchen

Appliances: If you’re changing your fridge-freezer, washing machine or cooker, take advantage of holiday sales and outlet stores for specific brands like Miele, Hotpoint or Whirlpool. It could be worth a trip to save £100s on your white goods, oven and hob. 

And consider opting for integrated designs to save. ‘If they are hidden behind cupboard doors, you have the freedom to choose brands that are good quality but don't necessarily match the appliances that are on display,’ advises Graeme Smith, head of retail and commercial design at Life Kitchens.

Kitchen sink: A stainless-steel sink is hard-wearing, easy to clean, resistant to high temperatures, and cost-effective. But be wary of choosing the cheapest steel option as this may scratch and dent easily. Find out more about how to clean a stainless sink with our guide.

Kitchen tiles: Kitchen splashback ideas won’t be exposed to as much wear and tear as your flooring or worktops, so a budget-friendly ceramic can be just as good as pricey porcelain or cement options. Experiment with unusual arrangements; try laying great-value metro tiles in a herringbone pattern and fill with an on-trend coloured grout – simple but effective. Shop around for the best price.

Flooring: ‘Herringbone has risen to become one of the most sought-after kitchen flooring ideas thanks to its prominence on Instagram and Pinterest,’ says Josh Barber, buyer at Flooring Superstore. 

‘To get the look with real wood planks or laminate options can be a time-consuming and costly home improvement, and it can result in a lot of materials being wasted due to the style of the pattern. However, vinyl flooring for kitchens is a great way to adopt this trend without breaking the bank or needing a lengthy installation.’

Drawers and pull-outs: ‘Cupboards cost significantly less than drawers and pull-outs,’ says Malo Tasle of InHouse Inspired Room Design.

Where to spend your money in a new kitchen 

Kitchen taps: In use every day, you want one which will not only look good, but will last. Consider size, shape and water pressure for a perfect fit. Boiling water taps, for example, are pricey but can look very stylish and can even be space-saving, avoiding the need for kettles and coffee machines.

If you do choose a boiling water tap, you can reduce the cost by considering both the functionality and finish. ‘You can save hundreds of pounds by choosing a standard 3-in-1 instant boiling water tap in classic chrome as opposed to a premium 4-in-1 electronically controlled model in a top-of-the-range metallic finish,’ explains Jo Sargent, sales and marketing director at Franke UK. ‘If instant boiling water is your main goal, they will both deliver this.’

Fixings: A quality fixing – we're talking door handles and knobs and hinges – will be long-lasting and allow ease of use. Even if you choose inexpensive cabinets, good fixings can make a huge difference.

Kitchen worktops: A natural focal point, they need to be hardwearing but you can get a variety of durable kitchen worktop materials. If you’re going for laminate, avoid cheap versions as they can chip and damage easily, while quality laminates can look convincingly like stone and composite. Timber is warm and stylish but requires maintenance. For a statement in an urban-style kitchen, consider stainless steel. Check out these DIY worktops too. 

Love the idea of granite, but want a lower cost? ‘Quartz is a manmade stone that’s generally cheaper than granite,’ says Deborah Bond, CEO of Granite Worktops UK. ‘If you were to buy affordable quartz worktops brand new, you could choose a sparkly or marble-effect quartz. The veins make the worktop look more natural, giving you an expensive look without the high price tag. You could even go for a plain light grey quartz or a white quartz to give a modern and contemporary look.’

Corner units: ‘I would always recommend spending a little more on corner units, as well-engineered corner pull-outs are far superior to basic corner cupboards,’ says Malo Tasle. ‘They maximise every inch of space, and save you having to get on the floor to reach items at the back.’

Hob: Consider swapping to an induction hob in a new kitchen. ‘Induction hobs have taken both domestic and industrial kitchens by storm, making cooking smarter, faster, safer, and greener, whilst saving users money in the long run,’ says Ian Johnstone, strategic design manager at Stoves and Belling. 

21. Go for shelves rather than wall units

‘Try open shelf units instead of traditional wall units – these can create a great feature and can be less expensive,’ says Neil McDonald, design manager at Moores Kitchens.

Dawn Filkins, head of creative at Smile Kitchens, agrees. ‘Open kitchen shelving ideas are hugely on-trend right now and cost significantly less than your standard wall cabinet setup,’ she says. 

‘Stylistically, this look can also make the kitchen space feel lighter and brighter, breaking up the density of wall cabinets. It also grants you a place to display favoured items such as china plates, vases, or artwork.’

22. Use laminate instead of lacquer or veneer finishes 

If you love the look of timber but it’s beyond your budget, laminate can be a great alternative to cut your new kitchen cost quickly. 

‘Laminate wood effects are an increasingly popular solution that evokes the rustic look we love to create with wood, without compromising cost,’ says Malo Tasle. ‘Modern laminates are incredibly durable.’

Having  set their hearts on a popular leafy estate of 1970s and 1980s houses in Whitley Bay, Patsy and Al came across this house in a probate sale that fit the bill. ‘We were first to view and offered the asking price straight away,’ says Patsy. ‘The sunny plot wasn’t overlooked and the trees made it feel like we were in the countryside. There were a lot of small rooms not being used to their full potential; it had the space we needed.’ 

They had extended their former house, a 1930s semi, twice to accommodate their growing family. But for this purchase, the couple decided to find the space they needed by looking internally. Four months after moving in, they had plans drawn up to knock three disconnected rooms together into one large kitchen/diner/living area measuring a generous 44 square metres, with extensive glazing to the garden.

‘Access to the garden was through a utility that was bigger than the kitchen with a stone floor, felt roof and no heating,’ says Patsy. ‘A dining room in the middle of the house – with a serving hatch – had a lovely outlook over the garden, but didn’t lead anywhere, so it just served as a storage room.’

The couple spoke to an architect and several builders to see if their plans were viable. ‘One builder just said, “I don’t like it and I don’t think it’ll work,” while others said we should extend out instead,’ explains Patsy. ‘However, I felt we already had the space we needed – it just wasn’t configured properly, and I didn’t want to lose too much garden.’

Eventually Northern Property Projects agreed to take on the project. The work involved taking out three supporting walls as well as the corner of the house. All beams and structural supports were hidden in the first floor to maintain a seamless ceiling height. 

Part of the double garage was used to square off the kitchen and create a utility area at the rear. ‘Seven steel beams were needed in total, including a large goalpost that spans around the sliding doors,’ explains Patsy. ‘Cost-wise, it wouldn’t have been much more to extend.’

The work was full of challenges. As the first floor joists ran the opposite way to how the builders expected, each one had to be cut to accommodate the steel beam. A soil pipe which was boxed in between the kitchen and dining room also had to be relocated and concealed above the sliding doors.

Elsewhere, the dated conservatory was given a new roof and anthracite window frames. A new boot room was created in the hallway and two new bathrooms were fitted upstairs. ‘We halved our en suite to make space for a desk area in Hannah’s bedroom,’ says Patsy. ‘And the family bathroom felt cramped as the pipes were boxed in around the bottom. Now the pipework is all hidden, the skirting boards have gone and there’s a wall-hung vanity unit – making the room feel bigger.’

Next, Patsy plans to give her spacious hallway a monochrome and rattan makeover, turn the fourth bedroom into a storage cum craft room and possibly redecorate the lounge. ‘When we moved in, the only rooms we could decorate were the lounge, downstairs loo and Ellie’s bedroom as the building work would affect all the other rooms,’ she says. ‘My style is a mix of contemporary-classic with boho and industrial elements, but although I love the blue colour in the lounge, it feels disconnected from the rest of the house now.’

Although the couple may downsize when their children leave home, for now they’re enjoying the new space. ‘The nice thing about buying a house that needs a full renovation is that you end up with something totally your style and taste,’ says Patsy. ‘When builders disagree with your plans, you start doubting yourself, but the kitchen works so well for us now. We’re happy we stuck to our original vision.’

Patience has been a virtue for Kate and Craig Moorhouse, who have waited 15 years to create their dream ground-floor extension. After renting a Victorian terraced house in the bustling but pricey Manchester suburb of Chorlton, they moved five minutes away to the quieter enclave of Firswood, where they’d found an abundance of 1930s semis with driveways and gardens that would’ve fetched a premium where they used to live.

After whittling down their shortlist, they settled on a 1930s house in a quiet location. 'With plans to have a baby, we didn’t think about extending,' says Kate. 'Instead we focused on ripping out the smelly carpets, rewiring, replacing the back boiler, fixing the roof and updating the kitchen and bathroom.'

Their new home had scope for an ambitious remodel, but these plans went on the back burner with the arrival of son Herbie. ‘It was a while before we could afford to really change the layout of our home, and it started with trying to fit in a downstairs loo,' says Craig. 'Other neighbours had installed one under the stairs, but it would’ve been tight. As there was a garage with asbestos roof at the side, it made sense to knock it down and add a side return extension – which would give us an office and utility, too.'

The side extension was finished in six weeks – then lockdown hit. Nine weeks later, the couple finished the hob with a new rear extension, completing their plans for a Scandi-style open-plan kitchen, dining and living area. Below, Kate and Craig explain how they pulled it off.

The kitchen

'After visiting a neighbour’s house and seeing their open-plan living dining and kitchen space, we decided to use the same architect and extend at the back,' says Kate. 'We do a lot of entertaining and cooking but I was tucked away in the tiny galley kitchen, so it really appealed to me, and we could remortgage for the extra funds needed.

‘The design has a pitched roof, which gives us more light, more ceiling height and is more in keeping with the style of the house,' Kate adds. 'As I’m a graphic designer and Craig is a product designer, we could talk about things from a design perspective and justify our reasoning. We’re both trained in colour, so all our paints are mixed using the NCS colour system at Johnstone’s paints, and we both love a pared-back architectural style.'

Black aluminium sliding doors were chosen after much research and advice from an architect friend. ‘Bi-folds running the full width of the house look amazing, but we wanted a window by the sink for an L-shaped kitchen,’ says Kate. ‘With sliding doors this size you see more of the glass compared to three-pane bi-folds, and they’re so handy with pets.'

‘I was keen to create little pockets of spaced out mood lighting,' says Craig. 'There are spotlights for an overall flat light, under counter kitchen lights and a remote control pendant light over the dining table that changes from natural light during the day to warm light in the evening. Kate initially wanted smoked glass island pendants, but I felt something simpler that would shine down onto the quartz worktop would be more dramatic. The lighting and extra sockets put us over budget by around £1,000, but it was worth it as people often comment on the feel of it.'

‘The slat wall in the dining area was my idea as I love natural materials,' says Kate. 'I used two by one inch wooden strips and had a joiner cut them in half lengthways. It was a real challenge angling the top section and tapering it down to the skirting boards. Needless to say the joiner hated me by the end, and hasn’t been back since! We’ve left it bare to see how the wood changes over time. I made the clover-shaped side tables from cardboard tubes, which I painted, then my step-dad made the birch ply tops.’ 

‘Our first choice was a Shaker-style kitchen to suit the front of the house, but we couldn’t find a colour we liked,’ says Kate. ‘Instead we picked more modern units for the colour, which morphed the direction of the whole design.’

‘To save money, we opted for cheaper units in the utility and kept the more impactful handless units for the kitchen,' adds Craig. 'As a flooring designer, I also selected a new light oak LVT, which I’d recently developed for Polyflor. Although we didn’t envisage it would take quite as long to do, the new space has really brought the three of us closer together. Even though you don’t have those sound barriers anymore, it’s such a sociable space and we spend so much time in here.’

The snug

As a member of the DJ Collective ‘Too Many Daves’, Craig ensured the alcove was big enough for his decks and record collection, then had a bespoke unit made. ‘One area I was quite particular about was the alcove in the open-plan living space, as it had to house my decks and records,' he says. 

'When the chimney breast was taken back to brick and replastered, they found some pipes that had to be boxed in. The new wider steel pillar on the other side made the alcove smaller as well. As soon as the plaster was on, I grabbed my decks and mixer and laid them on the floor to make sure everything fit!'

The living room

The front room used to house the dining table and became a dumping ground for toys before transforming into a room for home schooling during Covid. ‘A joiner made the window seat,' says Kate. 'I painted it purple, but it looked awful, so I went for dark grey, which feels cosy.'

‘We painted the wall to match the green sideboard,’ says Kate. ‘Craig’s record collection has been thinned out with his favourites moved to the open-plan space, so he plays them a lot more.’

Herbie's bedroom

With Herbie due to start secondary school, Kate wanted to banish the blue walls and cabin bed before creating a more grown up look. ‘He’s a fan of Fortnite but we didn’t want a theme he might grow out of, so we decided on a monochrome scheme,’ she says. ‘Limiting the mural to behind the bed makes it easier to change in future.’ 

After taking a door off the alcove cupboard, Kate painted the open shelves, ceiling and one wall black. ’Herbie looks at my design work a lot, so he was happy to try a black ceiling,’ says Kate. ‘It’s given the room a cave-like feel, which is great since he spends more time in here now.’

The home office

‘As I’m primarily in the office and Kate works from home, she dealt with the builders’ day-to-day queries, but we spoke on every point,' says Craig. 'Sometimes she’d convince me and sometimes it was the other way around. Fortunately, our tastes are quite similar; we like a mix of traditional, such as picture rails and stained glass, with a contemporary twist.'

‘It wasn’t easy working and home schooling during Covid,' Kate admits. 'I heard every bang and we had to make up a few garden games involving bricks. However, the builder was amazing. He wasn’t the cheapest, but he lives round the corner and was so organised, giving us a breakdown of every payment stage.' Now, she has a home office that makes the upheaval worth it. 'My office was inspired by working in several graphic design studios and coffee shops around Manchester,’ she says. ‘The panelling is great for all my bits and pieces.’

The bathroom

As the bathroom suite is around 12 years old, the couple gave it a mini makeover recently until they can afford to completely change it.

‘We freshened up the tiles with a black grout pen, spray painted the radiator and shower screen, bought a new shower head and laid terrazzo vinyl sheet flooring,’ says Kate. ‘It mirrors the look in the ground-floor cloakroom.’

The master bedroom

Kate made panelling for the bedroom from flexible MDF as a quick fix, but plans to change this area again with a paint effect or 3D panelling. In time we hope to convert the loft into a bedroom suite with freestanding bath and Crittall doors leading into a dressing room,' she says. The old bathroom on the first floor would become a wet room style shower, and the family would have a guest bedroom for Craig’s mum visiting from Devon.

‘When we first moved here, the area was considered a bit twee and not very cool, but there are more and more young professional families moving in,' Kate adds. 'I can’t see us moving as we love the area and our neighbours so much.’ 

Making the decision to hire an architect is often a case of weighing up the pros and cons. On the one hand, it’s an additional expense. On the other hand, if you choose well, you’ll receive guidance on everything from planning restrictions to layout and design, all while taking your own ideas into account. The end result will be a functional, fluid space that works perfectly for your lifestyle.

That’s exactly what Vanessa and Paul found when they hired Paula of Butterfield Architecture to help them design an extension to their Edwardian semi. With a background in design, Vanessa had plenty of ideas for how the space should look, but Paula’s skills were invaluable in making the space work for them and dreaming up solutions the couple had never thought of themselves. As a result, the family have a stunning, sociable kitchen-diner stamped with their unique take on an industrial scheme. Below, Vanessa explains how they created this wonderful space and don't regret hiring an architect, one bit.

A radical change

‘This house was owned previously by two 85-year-old brothers, who’d lived here all their lives,’ says Vanessa. ‘When we moved in, the kitchen was poky, with a small pantry and an outside coal bunker. Our main aim was to make the space more family-friendly; we wanted a sociable kitchen-diner. We live in a very green area and we wanted to take advantage of that by bringing it in through the back of the property. 

‘As there weren’t any particularly interesting features at the rear of the house, we thought it’d be nice to do something completely radical with an extension. Architect Paula Butterfield is local to us; we loved her designs, so we hired her to work with us.’

Professional input

• A DIYer saves thousands giving her dark and dingy kitchen a stunning, textural transformation

‘I’ve always liked wood clapperboard-style extensions and thought it would work well as a mixed-media look along with traditional brickwork and metal door frames. We also knew we wanted Crittall windows and doors in the space. We rented while the work was done – I’ve experienced the dust and dirt that comes with a renovation in the past, so I knew to stay away!

‘Paula’s input in terms of layout was invaluable. We wanted an island, but a chimney stack in the corner took a decent chunk off the back of the wall and made it difficult to run units along. Paula moved the door on the back wall and took the chimney stack out to create the layout we wanted.’

• Before & after: a simple freehand wall stencil design adds character to this entryway

Long-lasting style

‘Back in 2016, the industrial look was just coming through. It was all about dark kitchen units, glass, rattan and metro tiles. It had quite a fresh new feel, and we ended up going down that route for the kitchen. It contrasts with the rest of the house. If I was braver at the time, I might have exposed the beams, but I thought it might be too industrial for an Edwardian home.

‘The style has had longevity, to be honest. Friends who are remodelling their kitchens now will come and say, “Oh, we’re looking at flooring like that” or point out the units. In a way, it’s a bit of a blank canvas – the fixtures and fittings have changed, with more brass and gold than there was at the time.’

Design decisions

‘For the garden, we went for as many tropical plants as we could get away with in Manchester. The wallpaper, which we chose later, ties in with it. Working in design and fashion, you constantly see trends change. I’d seen and liked this paper for a while, though, and I figured that as I hadn’t got sick of it yet, it was a good sign! 

‘There’s always been a bit of a battle of the wills – with Paul being a finance business partner, I’d often have my designer budget reined in by the purse strings. If we could, I’d have created as big a utility room as possible. The one we have is adequate, but I sometimes wish it was three times bigger to fit everything in.’

Outdoor connection

‘My favourite part of the space is definitely the doors. When we came to designing the garden afterwards, I was really glad we’d raised the deck level to be flush with the floor – I love the way it flows seamlessly between the spaces. It’s lovely sitting at the table with the doors wide open. The sun hits the floor and creates all sorts of reflections and shadows.

‘This is such a sociable space; the connection to the garden makes it feel like an extension to the kitchen. It suits the way we live now to a tee. In the winter, we’ll hibernate at the front of the house – but come summer, the garden becomes our lounge and we live in the kitchen-diner.’

No matter what its cause, stress is bad for our health. While the prospect of a home remodel appears to be an exciting, prosperous event that’ll lead to your sparkling new dream home, the process itself and the renovation stress incurred, can often leave a lot to be desired.  

A recent survey of 1,003 people from Toolstation revealed that 60% of home renovations impact people's general well-being, and certain aspects of the process cause stress levels to dramatically spike. 

According to the survey, it is kitchen remodels that are the most stressful, closely followed by the bathroom... Now, we’re big advocates of curating a home that’s perfect for you, and often that does involve a renovation. So what can we do to ensure the process is as smooth and pain-free as possible? We’ve chatted to a therapist, an organization guru and two of our very own current renovators to share how best to prepare for your renovation to keep stress levels low and excitement high. 

1. Clear out as much as possible

Lindsey Davis, Acting Editor of realhomes.com, has recently renovated her whole kitchen, and has learned a thing or two about how best to manage the process. 

'I'd recommend getting your things packed up well in advance of the tradespeople coming in, and use it as a chance to have a clear our,' she says. 'If possible, move stuff into storage to keep it clean and get it out of your hair.' 

Lindsey also points out that even if you're only renovating one room, it's a good idea to keep other rooms clear too. 'With a big renovation, there will be a knock-on to other rooms, so if possible, get everything you definitely don't need well out of the way. For example, you might need plumbing or electrics extending, and this can mean trades having to work in other spaces of your home,' she says. 

2. Prepare for things to take longer than planned

Siân Pelleschi is conference director at APDO and founder of decluttering service Sorted, Pelleschi suggests that learning to expect delays can boost your mental health and ease renovation stress throughout the process. 

'Be prepared for things to take longer than expected. When you’re told a project will take four weeks, plan in for eight. There will likely be delays, whether it’s on materials or other elements you weren’t expecting. Then, should it run on time, only slightly over or to the anticipated time, you’ll be in a better place mentally and you’ll feel ahead of the game,' says Pelleschi.

Alison Jones assistant editor of Real Homes magazine, who is also in the throws of renovating her whole house, agrees: 'Try to stay flexible, particularly when expecting deliveries, as it's not unusual for materials to arrive weeks, if not months, later than planned,' she says.

'Keep builders and contractors informed and try to pencil in alternative days when they can come and install what you've ordered. If it doesn’t get delivered as scheduled, you can then fall back to plan/date b (or c or d…).'

3. Plan your amenities 

Davis went through endless take-outs and cold dinners while she lived life without a kitchen, but one buy saved her.

'Take out becomes expensive and repetitive and there are only so many uncooked meals in most people's repertoires. Invest in a compact cooker of some sort like a microwave, air fryer or toaster oven. They are incredibly versatile for cooking a variety of easy meals, quickly,' she says. 'I was lucky to have a Ninja Foodi Max multicooker that does the lot. I could have made a whole roast dinner in it (if I'd had the energy)'.

'If you're going to be without a kitchen tap, shower, or toilet for some time, you need to make sure you have an alternative. Get plenty of water jugs or bottles you can fill up for periods where you will be without easy access to water. You will definitely need more than you think if you are doing lots of tea rounds.'

'And speaking of tea rounds, consider making a separate tea and coffee station for the trades to help themselves so you don't get in each other's way,' adds Davis.

'Whether or not you're moving out yourself, a portaloo and a good key lock box will make life much easier for you and your contractors.'

4. Keep on cleaning

Pelleschi warns of the perils of dust throughout your renovation. 'Be prepared for dust! It creeps in everywhere when there’s building work going on. Keep all doors closed and triple-tape around doorways that link to the building area where possible,' she says.

'And keep on cleaning! You won’t be able to combat all of the dust but just keeping on top of it will help in the long run. Even investing in a cleaner once a week for a short while if you don’t already have one will take the pressure off you or your family members.'

Davis also notes the importance of keeping your space tidy. 'Most trades are great at cleaning up after themselves and will often be marked for this on trade rating websites. However, the overall tidiness of the site will be your responsibility so once the trades leave, do a walk round to make sure the site is left in a good state for the next team. It can waste so much time (especially for wet trades like tiling, floor pouring and plastering) if they need to sweep and clean the site before they can do their part.'

5. Maintain your healthy habits

Sarah Tombs is a registered therapist and says that keeping up your healthy habits and sticking to your usual routine as far as possible will boost your well-being throughout your renovation.

'When you are stressed, many healthy habits like exercise, walking, meditation or heading to that gym class can be forgotten about. Yet in reality, those habits and self-care practices will serve to stabilize us during a stressful time and boost our wellbeing,' she says.

'Better still, if you are able to allow yourself the commitment of sticking to your usual routine as much as possible, that will support you by offering periods of downtime. A helpful technique would be to schedule these into your week and make them non-negotiables.'

6. Remember your comfort is important too

If you're renovating your whole house, Jones recommends buying yourself an inexpensive, temporary place to perch. 'Get yourself some inexpensive garden furniture to use inside. Whether it's a collapsible picnic chair (with cup holder) or a blow-up seat, you want it to be wipe-cleanable or something you won’t mind getting dust or even paint spills on. It will be somewhere to sit in the thick of the renovation so you don’t mark your best furniture.'

Pelleschi recommends taking yourself out of the way whenever you can. 'Try to spend pockets of time away from the renovation. Whether that’s a few hours or a few days, it’s always good to not be surrounded by the work whilst it’s going on and have a change of scenery.'

For Cassie Williams, a well-designed home is all about texture. The interior designer advocates building up a cosy, welcoming space through layering: woods, metallics, linens, sheepskins and dried flowers piled up to create a room that’s pretty, practical and personal to you. It’s a great strategy: whether you own an extended townhouse or rent a flat in the city, you can throw everything at it without breaking the bank (or upsetting your landlord).

And it’s clear from her home that Cassie takes her own advice. Each room is a masterclass in slow, thoughtful design, from the playful floral wallpaper in the cloakroom to the wood and brass accents that bring the kitchen extension to life; it’s a stylish, comfortable and practical family home.

Adding space with an extension was on the to-do list as soon as she and her husband, Jon, bought the house – it just took a while to see it to fruition. ‘When we bought it 12 years ago, we knew we’d convert the loft and extend out the back,’ says Cassie. They completed the loft conversion four or five years in, adding a bathroom and bedroom. Then, in 2020, they embarked on a two-storey extension, expanding the kitchen and adding another bedroom on the first floor. ‘This area is quite expensive, and there’s a big jump between a three- and a four-bedroom house,’ she explains. ‘It made financial sense to create space here instead of looking for somewhere new.’

Key to the entire project was improving the downstairs layout. The couple saw potential in using part of the good-sized garden. ‘The need for more space became obvious when we had Jenson,’ says Cassie. ‘We like to entertain, and you couldn’t see what was going on elsewhere when you were in the old galley kitchen. It felt segregated.’ 

The plan was to open up the living space and turn the lounge at the front of the house into a study. The couple tweaked architectural plans drawn up when they did the loft, and put in for approval. Their builder impressed them with the jobs he’d done in the area. ‘He has a keen interest in older houses, so we had faith he’d do a good job.’

The kitchen is now the home’s hub, framed by a vaulted ceiling, rooflights and Crittall-style doors. ‘I wanted a cosy kitchen that felt warm and homely, and in the end, we went really neutral,’ says Cassie. ‘I picked out the same shade for the tiles, floor, units and worktop, and the designer was like, “Are you sure?”. I wanted a hanging chair from the start, so we added extra support during the build. It’s a lovely corner to sit in and have a glass of prosecco while someone is cooking.’ 

Black plays a part in bringing the scheme to life, from the doors to the bar stools. ‘The reclaimed barn wood on the island has a lovely texture,’ says Cassie. ‘It’s practical, too – kids can sit at it and kick it, but it doesn’t matter.’

A concrete-effect worktop, rustic splashback tiles and reclaimed wood panelling pair with antique brass tones through the lights and cupboard handles. Cassie made a feature of the shelving with wooden boards, metallic textures and plants.

In the dining area, Cassie sourced the reclaimed wood table and matching bench, adding cushions and furs to dress the space and add warmth and texture.

Cassie has zoned the space using rugs, changes in flooring and a screen to divide the lounge from the rest of the room. ‘With open-plan living, you can sometimes get noise crossover, but we’ve found that’s rarely bothersome,’ she says. ‘It’s mostly about being together. I tied the lounge in with the kitchen area by following the look. I’m a fan of texture, more so than colour – I wanted to keep things quite neutral.’

The garden extends the living area, with a comfy corner pallet bench and a barbecue. ‘It’s lovely sitting out here in the summer,’ says Cassie. ‘The garden team fitted the pergola and built the barbecue area.’

‘I love dark rooms, but wasn’t brave enough to try them in the extension,’ says Cassie. ‘I painted the skirting and ceiling the same colour so it feels like a cosy place to be.’

Upstairs, the rustic scheme continues with a roll-top bath and reclaimed vanity unit in the bathroom. 'The feature of the bathroom is the roll-top bath,’ says Cassie. ‘It’s sympathetic to the age of the house.’

In the guest room, the couple added feature wallpaper, touched up the original fireplace, and painted the bed black. ‘A bit of pampas grass, some nice cushions, and boom – we had a lovely bedroom,’ says Cassie. ‘My husband has family in the West Country, and we liked the idea of being able to host them for stays in an attractive spare bedroom.’ The master bedroom, in the loft, is next – the plan is to go cosy and dark. 

Jenson’s room, in contrast, is bright and fun, with painted mountains on the walls and a den-like bed. ‘Jenson loves making dens, and sitting under the bed with his disco light,’ says Cassie. ‘We read there in the evening before he goes to bed.’ Cassie added the bookshelves and black chalk paint.

For Cassie, the key to the project was staying sympathetic to the house’s age. ‘From the reclaimed furniture to the restored fireplace, where we could tie in with the original features, we’ve tried to do so,’ she says. ‘But the main thing was the social space – and we love that we can cook and chat at the breakfast bar while Jenson plays with his toys. It’s perfect.’

Extending on a budget is tricky if you want to create something special from your space. You have to find interesting ways to make room. 

For Cat and her husband, Wayne, their idea came after a few years of weighing up their options. With two young children, they’d debated whether to extend upstairs – but decided the living area downstairs was where they spent most of their time, and, therefore, could do with the extra space. ‘We needed a toy area, more seating, and we wanted as much natural light as we could get,’ says Cat.

Opting for a glass-heavy extension proved a cost-effective option, and gave the couple the light they were after, from large sliding doors across the back and a glazed roof above. Cat enlisted the help of her sister, a structural engineer, for the nitty-gritty of the build. 

‘It was quite a challenge thinking about space versus cost, and how to fit in everything we needed,’ adds Cat. ‘I didn’t want it to feel like a conservatory, so I made sure there was space between the glass doors and the ceiling. There was a bit of to and fro with the builders, too – we needed a column in the corner and the ceiling had to be lowered from my plans to meet a specific pitch.’ 

The work was held up by a neighbour consultation, but the couple avoided further delays by ensuring the project came under permitted development.

With the extension underway, the rest of the house followed suit. Below, Cat talks us through her design choices for each room – and reveals tricks for making your money go further in a family home makeover.

Kitchen

The kitchen the couple inherited with the house was in good condition, with its cream gloss doors and granite worktops, but it needed an update – and the layout wasn't quite right for the family's needs.

To avoid waste, Cat kept the kitchen and made a feature of it. ‘I wanted to keep the structure as it was, so we took out a window to create a hatch, and opened up the side wall into a breakfast bar,’ she says.

The breakfast bar features an ash-effect worktop to tie in with the rest of the house. ‘We brought in black bar chairs to pull the space together,’ adds Cat. ‘We thought a lot about how we use the space in a social way, but also for day-to-day life – and the idea of sitting the kids at the breakfast bar really appealed.’

Family room

With openings out to all but one side, the kitchen looks onto an open-plan space made up of family, dining and seating areas, plus large sliding doors leading out to the garden.

The family area at the back of the extension features built-in toy storage made from Ikea kitchen units and a sofa so the kids can sit and watch TV. ‘Everything is contained there and the lounge is toy-free,’ says Cat.

‘Initially we wanted a patio by the house where we could put the hot tub, but we had quotes of £3,000 for a four-metre-square space!’ says Cat. ‘Instead, we have this raised seating area in the shade, which we’ve designed to feel like a holiday.’

Living room

The lounge – the first room you enter from the front door – was a blank canvas for Cat, though she decided to make a small structural change by cutting the room down in size to make space for a hallway.

The space is now warm and cosy, with a casual mix of furniture. Cat transformed the generic fire surround with MDF and brick slips: ‘It’s now the focal point of the room.’

‘The panelling helps divide this room from the new hallway but also brightens it up,’ says Cat. ‘We put down hard flooring through to the kitchen and kept the lounge carpeted, which divides the space.'

Master bedroom

Cat’s feel for design comes into play again in the bedrooms. The master has slatted panelling up to a shelf above the bed, for the illusion of an expanded headboard; similar panelling opposite – in a different colour – adds a feeling of height. Painting over and around the bed creates a cocooning feel, while a mirror opposite means you can see the carefully-arranged shelf from the bed.

Travis's room

Youngest son Travis’ room – ‘a tiny box room we could barely fit anything into’ – presented a design challenge for Cat. ‘When we moved Travis to a full-sized bed, we knew we needed a clever solution – we still had a chest of drawers and a wardrobe to fit in,’ she says. 

Cat designed a treehouse-style den over the bed with climbing wall blocks instead of a ladder. ‘It’s a small space, so we made use of the height,’ she says. ‘Painting up the wall and over the coving makes it cosier up in the trees. The treehouse den has a frame to stop him toppling out, and we made a wardrobe by cutting down one from Ikea.’

Bathroom

With enough money saved up, the bathroom was the last room to be renovated. ‘We did so many designs for this,’ says Cat. ‘It’s a big bathroom for the house. We wanted a bath and a separate shower, and it needed to be easy to clean.’ 

The couple’s vision was for a wetroom-style space, complete with a walk-in shower without a shower tray, but without actually being a wetroom. ‘The bathroom fitter suggested having a step up, which still creates the same feel but is practical, too.’

A large vanity unit introduces plenty of worktop space and enough storage for toiletries and bath toys. ‘I love the light concrete in here but wanted to create impact with colour,’ says Cat. ‘I painted the ceiling the same colour as the walls and it feels like a big cuddle. It’s lovely to look up to from the bath.’

Garden

The garden is still a work in progress, but it’s come a long way from the blank canvas it once was. ‘We did it bit by bit, mostly during the lockdown,’ says Cat. ‘We got rid of a vegetable patch at the bottom of the garden and made it more social with a seating area and a built-in barbecue, adding a pergola to provide shade.'

Next to that is a wildlife pond – 'shallow, with stones going gradually into it and a bridge over the deepest part,' says Cat. 'The kids love pond dipping there and seeing what they can find.’

A hot tub sits under another structure closer to the house, and a trampoline is hidden in a shaded part of the garden, with plants around it to hide it from view. ‘We did the garden in bits and planned it based on where the sun and the shade is,’ says Cat. ‘I designed the pergola and Wayne built it. The roof is made from plastic material from my mum and dad’s old conservatory – we reused where we could to keep costs low.’

The extension, along with the seating area outside of it, is Cat’s favourite part of the house. There are things she’d do differently now, like arranging the garden with the seated area in a more shaded spot, but in general, she feels things have gone to plan with the outdoor space: ‘Sitting outside in summer feels like a holiday!’

Planning a loft conversion is often easier said than done and while this home improvement project offers the best ROI of most home renovations, it's vital you get your design plans spot on to ensure your loft conversion runs smoothly from start to finish, not to mention, that you stay on budget.

From design considerations to planning permission details and more, this is how to plan a loft conversion for best results.

Planning a loft conversion

Planning a loft conversion involves everything from getting the right paperwork signed off, deciding on roof type, how the staircase will reach the new room, choosing the insulation and budgeting for all loft conversion costs. Of course, some decisions will be made for you by your loft company – but it's always worth getting ahead of the curve so that when they ask you for that piece of paper or what type of material you want for your window frames, you're ready. 

‘As with all changes to your home, you should think from the inside out and focus on the result you want, rather than what it is you can do,’ advises Mark Morris.

Planning a loft conversion: is your loft suitable for conversion?

Most properties will be suitable for a loft conversion so long as they have a loft that measures 2.3m at the highest point. As well as head height, other features that will help you decide whether your loft space is suitable for conversion are the pitch of the roof, the type of structure, and any obstacles, such as water tanks or chimney stacks.

Is there enough roof height?

If the initial roof space inspection reveals a maximum head height of less than 2.3 metres, there are two solutions available, both of which will require professional input: You could remove all or part of the roof and rebuild it to the required height and structure; however, this is costly and requires getting planning permission. You’ll also need to protect your house from the weather during the works using a covered scaffold structure.

Alternatively, you could create height by lowering the ceiling of the room below, providing you maintain a height of at least 2.4m. Removing the existing ceilings is a messy job and a plate will need to be bolted to the wall for the new floor joists to hang from. There will also need to be a tie between the new ceiling and roof to prevent the roof spreading.

Is the pitch suitable?

The higher the pitch angle, the higher the central head height is likely to be. If dormers are used or the roof is redesigned, the floor area can be widened.

As for the types of properties best suited for loft conversions? ‘We find that 1930s properties are well suited to loft conversions because they are straightforward to access,’ says James Bernard, director of Plus Rooms, which specialises in loft extensions. 

‘For Victorian terraces, planning and completing work is simple, provided that you have enough height on the ridge. One tip I would give is to look at Google Earth (or at back gardens) and see how many people have done loft conversions on your or the neighbouring streets. If you only see a few or none there might be a planning reason for this – perhaps you are in a conservation area.’

How long does a loft conversion take?

A loft conversion project can be a relatively speedy process, but the time taken does vary. ‘Much like any home renovation project, the timings of loft conversions are unique to the specifics and can be held up by unforeseen circumstances such as old floorboards not being stable enough for the job or a bad bout of weather,’ explains Alex Marshall of Roofing Superstore.

‘On average, a dormer conversion can take up to six weeks from start to finish. However, it can vary depending on the size of the roof and if any structural work needs to be carried out first. Plus, you need to factor in unpredictable weather (making the warmer months an ideal time to get started) and remember that any changes to the plan or delay in getting supplies will also add time.

‘Mansard and hip-to-gable conversions are more complicated projects as they’re essentially adding an extension to your roof. You can expect it to take longer than six weeks, but the contractor would be able to provide a more thorough plan based on the conversion specifics. 

‘Meanwhile, rooflight or Velux conversions can be done in under four weeks if there are no surprises, delays or changes – essentially, it’s just prepping the loft space, adding a rooflight and a staircase.’

How much disruption does a loft conversion cause?

As home improvement projects go, a loft conversion can be straightforward. ‘Loft conversions are considered one of the easier and least disruptive methods of converting a home with extra space,’ says Rob Wood, MD of Simply Lofts. ‘Assuming we do not need to lower your ceilings, the disruption is kept to a minimum as the work is confined to the loft space and most of the heavy work can often be carried out from scaffolding outside your property.’

Which type of loft conversion is best for your home?

There are four fundamental types of loft conversion and they vary in complexity and in cost as noted above.

Turning an attic into a room with rooflights

The existing loft space can be converted by simply adding rooflights, such as Velux windows, plus upgrading the structure and adding stairs, electrics, plumbing, insulation. This is usually the simplest, quickest and cheapest type of conversion, as structural alterations are kept to a minimum. 

‘However, whilst this is the cheapest loft conversion it may not maximise the space potential of your loft,’ notes Rob Wood.

Rooflights are also the most straightforward way of adding natural light and ventilation to your loft conversion. The surrounding area is reinforced before the rafters are cut to make way for the rooflights. The rooflight frame is fitted within the opening, and flashings are added before making good the surrounding tiling. This type of window is the most cost-effective, and most likely to be allowed without planning permission, under permitted development. Conservation rooflights, which are slightly more flush to the roofline and made of metal, can also be installed.

Dormer loft conversions

Dormers not only give natural light, but can add space to a loft conversion, too. ‘Ideal for families looking to add another bedroom to make room for new additions, dormer loft conversions are amongst the most popular loft conversions,’ says Rob Wood.

They are particularly effective where the pitch angle is high, as they can help increase the useable floor space. Dormers are normally installed by opening up the roof and cutting the required timbers to size on site. However, some loft conversion companies will make the dormers off site in their workshop and lift into place, which allows quick installation, and weatherproofing.

There are various types of dormer, from the standard ‘box’ which projects out with a flat roof, to the ‘hip-to-gable’ (see more below), which is used on end-terrace or semi-detached houses to replace a previously sloping roof (a hip) with a wall that is flush to the exterior wall (forming a gable). The mansard type, most commonly seen on London terrace houses, also maximises available roof space because it projects the maximum available head height, giving a greater usable floor area.

The part of the roof being extended will need to be stripped and the structure rebuilt. Consequently, this option is more time-consuming and expensive. 

Creating a new mansard roof

This is where the roof structure is altered at the back of the house (and sometimes at the front, too) to create a far larger area with full headroom. ‘In terms of the exterior of a property, these breathtaking mansard loft conversions are often considered the most aesthetically pleasing,’ says Rob Wood.

A mansard conversion typically spans from gable wall to gable wall and is like another full storey with almost vertical tiled walls and a flat roof. This results in an addition that may appear far more a part of the property and less like an add-on than a large box dormer. 

Hip to gable loft conversions

This usually applies to a semi-detached house or bungalow where the roof is currently hipped (sloped) to the side, as well as to the back and front. This roof is stripped and the hipped section removed. The end wall is then built up to form a new vertical gable and a standard pitched roof. The work creates a far greater area with full headroom. 

Gable-end windows

Most loft conversions will have at least one vertical external wall and standard window openings can be formed in these walls to bring in extra light. New windows in side elevations do not usually require planning permission if they are obscured, or are more than 1.7m above floor level.

Does a loft conversion need planning permission?

It's not usually a requirement but always check with your local planning department to see if your loft conversion needs planning permission or not. As a general rule, loft conversions are classed as permitted development and generally do not require planning permission, providing they meet the following conditions:

1. Any new roofing must not exceed an additional 40 cubic metres of space on terraced houses.
2. Any new roofing must not exceed an additional 50 cubic metres of space on detached and semi-detached houses.
3. No extension must be made beyond the plane of the existing roof slope.
4. No extension can be higher than the highest part of the roof.
5. New roofing materials need to be like-for-like or close to original fittings.
6. There must be no raised platforms or balconies.
7. Side-facing windows must be set with obscured glazing and an opening 1.7-metres above the floor.
8. For listed buildings or those in Conservation Areas, visit planningportal.co.uk

‘In most cases, you can do a loft conversion using your permitted development rights,’ explains Mark Morris. ‘This will normally get you more space than you would get if you were putting in a planning application. It will also give you more certainty about what you can and can’t do. The downside is that you can’t be adventurous with the external design – it needs to match the existing house. 

‘You also need to check that your permitted development rights are not limited either by something to do with the history of your house or by a council ban on their use for roof extensions in your area, something that is called an Article 4 direction.’

Do loft conversions need building regulations approval?

Always remember that planning permission does not equal building regulations approval – the two have to be cleared separately. Every new conversion, including those done under permitted development, must comply with fire and building regulations. This covers the safety and quality of the building work, including:

• checking the proposed structure is calculated properly;
• the safety of the stairs;
• insulation levels;
• effective drainage;
• electrical safety.

Ask your local authority’s building control department, or a private sector approved inspector, to help early in the planning stages. A common pitfall is the need for a ‘direct means of escape’, so a separated stairway and hallway with fire-rated doors to all rooms, will be required (see below).

Loft conversion planning: fire safety when you convert a loft

In an unconverted loft, the plasterboard ceiling in the upstairs rooms will delay the spread of fire to the roof space. However, when an opening is introduced for the staircase, safeguards must be in place to reduce the risk.

Building regulations require loft conversions that are 4.5m above external ground level to have 30-minute fire protection in the floor and walls, including the protected route to an external door. This often means upgrading doors to all habitable rooms on to the stairwell to fire doors. In a bungalow, a fire escape window with a clear opening of at least 45cm x 45cm in each habitable room is acceptable. In an open-plan house, sprinklers may be a suitable alternative.

At least one mains-operated smoke alarm with battery back-up must be installed in the circulation space of each storey.

What if your stairs rise from the living room, not a hallway. Is this permitted?

No, in this case, the stairway must be separated from the rooms by walls and fire doors, leading all the way to an external door, and not open-plan to rooms.

You could create a hallway by partitioning off the stairs from the room, or if the stairs are alongside a spinal wall separating two ground-floor rooms, you could form a lobby at the bottom of the stairs with fire doors leading to each room. So long as you have separate escape routes from both of these rooms, it would be acceptable.

If you really want an open-plan layout to include the stairs, sprinklers are usually the only option.

When converting a loft in a single-storey home, it is permissible to have the stairs within a room as you don’t need a protected stairway. In this situation, the requirement for an alternative emergency fire escape could be met by a first-floor window.

Planning a loft conversion: structural considerations 

There are two main types of roof construction – traditional framed and truss section. The traditional framed type is typically found in pre-1960s houses where the rafters, ceiling joists, and supporting timbers are cut to size and assembled on site. This type of structure is usually the most suitable for conversion as it can be easily, and relatively inexpensively, opened up by strengthening the rafters and adding supports.

Post-1960s, the most popular form of roof construction is factory-made truss sections, which mean the entire roof can be erected and felted in a day. Thinner – and therefore cheaper – trusses are used that usually have no loadbearing structures beneath them. Opening up lofts with this kind of structure requires added structural input, most commonly from the addition of steel beams. This requires skill, knowledge and equipment, and is therefore costly.

Planning a loft conversion: will your loft need new joists?

Your existing ceiling joists are unlikely to be able to support the loft conversion floor; so extra joists will need to be added to comply with building regulations. A structural engineer will look at the separation distance needed between joists to support the anticipated load weight, and then specify the size and grade needed.

The new joists will run alongside the existing joists and span between load-bearing walls. They will normally be raised slightly to prevent them from touching the ceiling plaster below.

Above window and door openings, thicker timbers will be used to bridge the gap, so that pressure is not put on the existing lintel. Rolled Steel Joists (RSJs) may also be needed to distribute the load.

The amount of useable space for a rooflight conversion will depend on the height and pitch of the roof. By the time the structure has been converted and insulated, only the area measuring 2.3m or more between the top of the floor joists and the underside of the rafters will have enough clear headroom for standing.

If your loft does not yield sufficient space for a simple rooflight conversion, you will need to consider one of the other design options shown on these pages to create the useable new room you need.

Insulation for loft conversions

There are two main ways of insulating the roof structure, and your Building Control inspector will specify which type you require.

Cold roof

The first method, called ‘cold roof’ insulation, can be carried out by a DIYer. It involves filling the space between the rafters with 7cm-thick slab foam insulation, ensuring that there is 5cm space between the roof felt and the insulation to allow for ventilation. A 3cm-depth of slab insulation is then attached to the inside of the rafters, giving a total of 10cm of insulation. The roof section of the loft conversion will require 30cm of mineral wool insulation, or 15cm of slab foam insulation, such as Celotex.

Warm roof

The other main method is ‘warm roof’ insulation. This involves fitting 10cm of slab foam insulation over the top of the rafters and adding a capping, followed by the tile battens and tiles. This is only a practical solution when the roof covering has been stripped off, such as where a dormer is being created. The dormer walls can be insulated with 10cm-thick slab foam insulation between the studwork. Plasterboard is attached to one side of any internal partition walls, a 10cm-thick quilt of insulation added, and then plasterboard added to the other side. Insulation is also placed between floor joists, and this is typically 10cm thick.

How to choose a staircase for a loft conversion

The best place for your staircase to land is in line with the roof ridge, which will make best use of the height available. The minimum height requirement above a staircase pitch line is two meters. ‘It is often best to follow the same pattern of the staircase from the lower floor to maintain this head height,’ says Mark Morris.

In reality, the actual location of your staircase will depend on the layout of the floor below, and where the necessary height can be achieved using a dormer, rooflight or, if appropriate, converting a hip roof end to a gable.

Number of steps

Building regulations specify that the maximum number of steps you can have in a straight line is 16 – the average loft conversion normally only requires 13 steps.

Size of steps

The maximum step rise is 22cm and the minimum depth is 22mm. Any winders, steps that go around a corner, must have a minimum of 5cm depth at the narrowest point. The width of steps is currently unregulated.

Rules for balustrades

The minimum height of any balustrade is 90cm above the pitch line. Any spindles must have a separation distance that a 10cm sphere cannot pass through.

Heating and ventilating a loft conversion 

Before work begins, check your boiler can cope with the extra demand for heating and hot water. In particular make sure the water pressure is sufficient – you might need to raise the height of the header tank, or switch to a pressurised plumbing system. 

Ensure good natural airflow by placing windows that open at opposite ends of the new room, as loft rooms can get warm.

Decide on the exterior wall cladding

You’ll want the loft to look great from the outside, too. A dormer can be clad in tiles or slate to match the original roof, finished in timber or with fibre cement weather boarding, which has the same look but is low maintenance and comes in a variety of shades. Metal cladding options include  galvanised steel, aluminium, long-lasting zinc and copper. Allow them to weather naturally, or choose a finish that will keep them gleaming. This loft on a north-London Victorian house designed by Office S&M has distinctive rounded cedar shingles, which will weather and change colour over time, lending it a sense of fun. Lofts come under ‘permitted development’ but materials are required to be similar in appearance to the main house so run your cladding choice by your local planning department in case there are restrictions.

Do you need an architect for a loft conversion?

A loft conversion project is a complex task and it's best to take on professionals rather than tackle it on your own. They will be able to draw up detailed plans that include all the information your local authority planning department would need to decipher whether or not you need planning permission.

Choosing a loft conversion company

When choosing a specialist loft company, you will benefit from an integrated project team who all work together to ensure the journey from initial concept to final build is as simple and stress-free as possible. 

The loft company will provide professional architectural designers, qualified Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS) structural engineers, surveyors, loft estimators, project managers and specialist tradespeople and loft teams. This structure means that the company is able to see the project as a whole from the outset, giving it the ability to foresee potential problems.

Do not be persuaded to simply opt for the cheapest company. Find a company or person that makes you feel comfortable, and always ask to speak with a previous customer and whether you can pop over to have a look at the work done. Admire the basics, such as how a hinge has been chipped into a new door, or the quality of the new roof and appearance of the new dormer. 

Find out if their chosen company went the extra mile by asking questions. Were they punctual, clean and tidy throughout the build? Did they start and finish the loft conversion within an agreed build schedule? Did they ask for any extra money along the way or was it a fixed price? You will find a lot of loft companies happy to commit to a fully fixed price and to sign documents to reflect this. As they are the professionals, it is their duty to capture all the costs, not yours.

That historians Alison and Mark wanted a home with a story to tell comes as no surprise. At the same time, the couple wanted something that could be transformed into a place where they could create their own memories with their two young children. ‘We originally wanted a Victorian terrace, but they were a bit more expensive in this area,’ says Alison. ‘It worked out perfectly, though. This house was built in the 1920s, so it still has high ceilings and a sense of spaciousness – but it’s also a bit squarer and not as narrow as some period properties, so we didn’t have the problem of dark rooms.’ 

Having originally lived in north-east London, the couple wanted something closer to work, so moved north west, looking for a property offering more space for their growing family, and that had a lot of appealing original features. This one ticked those boxes, but required some renovation. 

'It had been owned by a couple who had lived here for more than 40 years,’ says Alison. ‘They tried to do a few things to improve it, but there was a lot to be done. The living room was to the right of the front door, with a dining room next to the small galley kitchen. At the back were a couple of buildings, marketed as a utility and conservatory. Everything leaked through plastic sheet roofing and the structures stopped loads of light coming into the house.’

However, the property had the proportions they needed and they discovered that the garden backs onto a park. ‘On our second viewing we came towards evening and we saw the sun set,’ says Alison. ‘The sky was filled with beautiful colours; the setting was wonderful.’ 

Settling in

The young family lived in the property before the renovation began and didn’t unpack items such as their generous book collection because they didn’t think they’d be there for long. ‘We met the architects before we completed the purchase and they came to look at the house, so it felt like things were moving really quickly,’ says Alison. ‘In the end, though, because we needed planning permission, we lived here for seven months before construction started.’

Saving money

With a tight budget but plans in hand, the family lived with several issues, including a boiler that would never come on. ‘It seemed to only work on a Sunday morning for three hours – it was set to a weird pattern,’ says Alison. ‘Then all of the lights stopped working on the ground floor, and we put off fixing them as we wanted to save all of our money for the renovations. At Christmas it was festive cooking by candlelight; by February the novelty had worn off.’ 

The couple managed to save money by stripping back their wish list and avoiding some structural changes, such as removing a chimney breast and keeping the old first-floor layout. Mark painted the entire house, which helped the couple stay within budget but took up a lot of the summer of 2019.

Planning the space

When work finally began to install an extension with a utility and a pantry, plus a downstairs WC, Alison and Mark couldn’t have imagined such an amazing result. Their architects, Ester Corti and Andrew Mitchell, completely reworked the couple’s initial idea. ‘We wanted a big light extension with bi-folds across the back because that’s what we’d seen in other kitchens,’ explains Alison. ‘However, Ester and Andrew suggested that bi-fold doors can make a west-facing room very hot – they recommended something that would still frame the views of the park, yet allow for a gradual transition to the outside as the original layout was very disjointed.'

The architects’ design solution was a step to enter the kitchen, two steps down within the kitchen to create the extra-height bookcase area, and then two further steps from the decking down into the garden. The kitchen units were fitted by their joiner and though they look high-end, they were fairly inexpensive and have been finished with unique handles from Etsy.

Smart storage

The impressive library wall accommodates all the books the couple still had in boxes. ‘We had nowhere to put them, so it triggered the concept for their design with the bespoke bookcase and high ceiling with skylight,’ says Alison. ‘We talked about keeping as many Art Deco features as we could, so that also influenced the circular skylight and bookcase design.’

The bookshelf hides the boiler and provides storage for the children’s toys. The blue wall is actually old plaster that formed part of the original kitchen. When the floor-to-ceiling tiles were removed, the unusual colour was exposed. ‘The architect called us on holiday to tell us about it, suggesting we keep it,’ says Alison. ‘We’re very glad that we did.’

Indoor-outdoor link

Stepping out onto a decked area, the garden is now perfect for everyday life as well as entertaining. 'There was a really big drop of over a metre from the house to the garden, and our little boy was 18 months old when we moved in,' says Alison. 'We wanted something that would allow him to move between house and garden safely, while bringing the house together.’

Against a constant tide of new trends, a home with its own unique character is pretty special. As tempting as it is to get on board with what’s hot on Instagram – from dark blue kitchens (arguably closer to a classic these days) to boucle sofas (soft, but not red wine friendly) – the best homes are those that reflect their inhabitants’ personalities, and are filled with treasures and knick knacks from years of memories. 

It’s the quirky, one-of-a-kind style that makes Charlotte and Sam’s house renovation so special. They’ve transformed a cramped and dated bungalow, taking an empty shell and adding their stamp to it. 'The actual property looked a little bit like a cottage, and it just wasn’t big enough for us,' Charlotte says. 'I was keen to reconfigure from the start – I love American Hampton-style homes and the rest of the street looks a bit like a scene from Desperate Housewives, so my vision fitted in quite well! 

'Ours was the only small house in the road. It was a dormer bungalow with two bedrooms in the attic, built in 1952. The layout was strange – there was a small kitchen in the middle of the house with no room for a table; the dining room was at the back and there was a bedroom downstairs, plus a shared bathroom. Oh, and there was a shower room in the attic, which you couldn’t stand up in!'

Filled with theatrical flair and Charlotte’s love of Art Deco, the couple's renovation is a tribute to designing a house for you, not for a trend – and Charlotte told us how they did it.

1. Go all-out and scale back later

'Sam had worked on a few houses before with his mum and stepdad, but when we bought this house – the first one we’ve bought together – we were looking for a project. I’m quite picky and wanted to make my mark on a property. My dad is a wheelchair user, so we also wanted to make sure we could create something accessible. If we were doing our own renovation, we could make sure all those amenities were there for him.

'We have a friend who’s an architect, so we worked with him to get some designs drawn up, then we gathered loads of quotes from builders. We had to get planning permission, so we scaled our plans back in size before putting them in – which, in hindsight, was a mistake. You should just go for it and scale back if they get rejected instead!'

2. Take on the work yourself to save money

'Because it was an extensive renovation – we had to take the roof off to add a storey – everything was gutted first. We decided to project manage the build ourselves: I’d source items and Sam would be there on site to make decisions day-to-day. To save money, we asked the builders to take us up to the shell – literally just walls and a roof – and we’d do the rest. We worked on the bedroom and en suite first, temporarily moving back to my parents’ house until it was in a liveable state. That was our little den while the rest of the work was done. We lived off a microwave in the corner for the rest of the build.'

3. Inspiration can come from anywhere

'We mostly worked within the footprint of the original house, so the kitchen is the only bit with a new foundation – we added about 4x2m. Our architect advised us on the layout and told us to put the actual kitchen under skylights; it makes a huge difference when you’re cooking or sitting at the island. We got the kitchen from Ikea, which saved us money but took three long weekends of planning with the in-house planner. The goal was a sociable space where we can host parties and gather around the island. There’s also a study/dining/bedroom off this room, which we keep as a flexible space; there’s a sofa bed so Dad can stay.

'It was a scene from the TV show Doctor Foster that inspired the brick wall. I found the still online and added it to my Pinterest board. I was set on having one, so when I saw the builders putting in breeze blocks, I was like, “Where’s the brick?” We used brick slips in the end, which are about two centimetres thick and go on like tiles, except you have to be more careful with the grouting. I like the fact that it ties in with the original brick-built house.'

4. Use a colour wheel to nail your scheme…

'I’m a massive fan of Pinterest and had a mood board for each room. Being quite arty, I tend to pick contrasting hues on a colour wheel for a scheme, like the pink in the lounge against the teal walls. I do a lot of theatre as an actress, which I think influences my home. And a lot of the artwork in our house was donated by one of our friends, who’s South African and uses a lot of colour in their work.'

5. … but don't be afraid to bend the rules!

'The spare bedroom is nice to have, especially as we have a lot of friends who stay over. The wallpaper is actually adhesive – we wanted a bit of a quirky, bold print and this fit the bill. I love the look of the whale pictures, too.

'I love the 1920s, so there’s a lot of Art Deco in each room, but I wanted a different theme for each space. The living room at the front of the house, for example, doesn’t get much sunlight. I disagree with the idea that you have to use light colours in dark rooms. I went for Farrow & Ball’s Inchyra Blue as I love teal, and got the wallpaper from there to match.'

6. Your home doesn't have to be unified

'The bathrooms all have a different feel. There’s a wet room downstairs, which is handy for Dad and also for the hot tub in the garden. Our en suite (pictured) has lots of gold and duck egg blue, while the main bathroom has a botanical/jungle theme – wood-effect tiles, bamboo, lots of plants and a leaf-print blind.'

7. Take it room by room to avoid overwhelm

'The project was overwhelming at times because you're making every single choice. It got to the point where the electrician was asking what height we wanted the plug sockets, and my answer to everything was just ‘a normal height’! My advice to anyone taking on a renovation is to take it one room at a time. It might feel slow-going, but it feels like a real accomplishment when you've finished.'

Sometimes you only know what you want when you see it, and that was exactly the case for Charley when she found a new family home for her husband, Adam, and their two young children. Although the house was a bit of a mismatch and looked like nothing had been done to it for a couple of decades, it had beautiful features such as stained glass, parquet flooring and fireplaces – all elements that helped seal the deal. Charley knew they’d build a beautiful new extension to replace a conservatory that was on its last legs – and now, with the project completed, she tells us how she did it.

Looking for more house extension inspiration? Our gallery has plenty of ideas to get those creative juices flowing.

The before

‘The house needed a bit more TLC than we thought,’ says Charley. ‘The windows were single glazed and the panes were cracked, so we needed to replace them, then other things cropped up that we didn’t think we’d have to do. The foundations needed to be deeper as the soil has a high water content and we’re on a hill. The floor was a beautiful mosaic, but was all cracked and needed to be replaced. We moved in December 2019 and started on the windows, then Covid happened and we had to stop with half the windows done. We got the building works completed between lockdowns one and two. We lived here during the build, but fortunately it was summer, so it wasn’t too cold.’

Building progress

‘We converted the original kitchen into a hallway and utility room, knocked down the old conservatory and built out and across. The former kitchen had a galley layout and a huge Aga, but we wanted something that was open plan and connected to the living area and playroom, and for us to be able to get out to the garden. We used a building firm that did a pre-planning package and knew what was allowed in terms of planning permissions. We had one pushback, which was that they wanted us to drop down the roof height once we reached the border of the neighbours. We wanted it to be as high as planning would allow so the room would feel more spacious and bring in lots of light.’

Compromise is key

‘We would have loved a deVOL kitchen, but it was out of budget. A friend recommended Naked and we found it to be a really good middle ground in terms of design and quality versus price. We did a lot of the planning ourselves and really led the project, telling them we wanted a bank of units along the wall, an island and a dresser. We went against advice for the distance between the island and wall units and brought the island out further to make the kitchen more spacious. We wanted a style in keeping with the period of the house and chose frameless Shaker doors that are a bit more modern – I’d say what we have now is a mix of the old and new.’

Personal touches

'Originally our architect designed the extension with a whole wall of glass at the end, but I wanted some sort of separation between the kitchen and the dining area, so we have two sets of doors with a little wall in between. I think it actually makes the space feel bigger. 

‘I ordered almost all the possible paint samples as I love colour, but we ended up choosing an emerald green I came across on social media – I really love it. We were originally looking at dark colours that would match the Crittall-style doors. I always wanted this style; it’s in keeping with the property and matches the stained glass windows, which are leaded.’

Smart buys

‘We had a budget to stick to but because we were thrifty, we didn’t have to scrimp on anything. I searched high and low to get the Buster & Punch-style handles that I loved. I found the ones we used via Plank Hardware. I’d definitely recommend asking for a discount on every single purchase you make: you don’t always get one, but most people will be willing to give you something. 

‘My other tip is to stay focused. You can get really distracted with Pinterest and Instagram and can get decision fatigue when doing a big project. Stick to what you love and go with your gut.’

Our interior design choices should be both a reflection of who we are and a springboard for how we want to be. More often than not, the colours and patterns we choose reflect our personality, while it’s the architectural choices that enable us to, as they say, live the dream. 

Claire’s colourful home is bursting with energy, creativity and nature. It was her background in wedding floristry, and a desire to entertain easily at home, that prompted this open-plan kitchen extension. Now, she's shared her decorating choices and how she went about this home improvement to inspire the rest of us planning to extend a house.

1. Staying put

‘We spent a long time looking to move house, but we couldn’t find exactly what we needed,' says Claire. 'This made us question why we wanted to move in the first place, and the answer was not that we didn’t love the house, but that the downstairs space wasn’t working for us. 

'The house was very top heavy, across three floors. Michael and I are really sociable and love hosting dinners – there are always people coming and going – and our old layout, with little communal space, made this difficult. There was nowhere to relax in the kitchen, and we were left separated from our guests when cooking. So with that, the penny dropped and we decided to stay put and renovate instead.’

2. Give and take

‘Our garden is really important to us and we didn’t want to lose any of it. I had a garden workshop where I ran my own floristry business. As I no longer use this, we removed the workshop, which freed up some garden space and enabled us to take some back for the extension. 

'Having lived in the house for a while, we knew exactly what it needed to maximise natural light, so we chose the positioning of the roof lights and picture windows ourselves. We stayed in the house throughout the extension and I must say, it wasn’t fun. Luckily my cousin was our builder, so he was very sympathetic to our needs.’

3. A green base 

‘Having looked at so many potential new homes, I’d developed a serious case of silver, white and grey fatigue. I wanted my décor to be bold and different. We spotted the green sofa very early on in the process and decided it would be the first thing we’d order. We chose the House of Hackney floral fabric for the end, and these shades became our swatch for our other design decisions to revolve around. 

'As with foliage in a bouquet, green is a great base colour as it works well with all other colours, so I knew green cabinets would allow me to play around with everything else. We also live next to a country park and this was a great way to connect our space to the outdoors.’

4. Collaborative effort 

‘As a creative person, everyone said I’d be able to design my own interiors scheme, but I really wanted someone to brainstorm with, so we headed to Bark to hire an interior designer. When I saw Jade Maria Interiors, I just loved her style and knew it would fit really well with us. 

'I made a mood board and she put her own stamp on it, being receptive to what we wanted while pushing us outside of our comfort zone. Because the kitchen was only six years old we simply spray painted the doors, and Jade Maria sourced the stunning terrazzo worktops – they’re one of my favourite things about the space as we chose the colours of all the stones.’

5. The end result

‘I absolutely love our home now and I wouldn’t change a single thing about it. We did go over budget, but when you’re going through that amount of upheaval, you get to a point where you think, actually, it is worth paying a bit more for exactly what you want – like our bespoke worktops, for example. There was a lot of persuasion there with the husband, but I’m glad we went for it! 

'My best interior design advice is to trust your instincts. If you see something and you like it – do it. Don’t think, "That’s a bit risky" – it pays off in the end if you just push yourself that little bit further. Your interiors should reflect you as an individual, not anybody else.’ 

Diving into a project like extending a house is no easy feat, especially when it's your first time on the property ladder. Luckily, you can learn from the wisdom of those who've gone before you thanks to the internet. We love nothing more than picking up tips from the amazing renovators we speak to every day – and Louise and Calum Todd are no exception, offering plenty of advice for anyone getting started on a project of their own.

The couple bought their two bedroom lower villa on a quiet street in Edinburgh’s Corstorphine area after six years of saving. With its own front and back doors, the property felt less like a flat and more like a bungalow. Four years after their initial renovation, the pair embarked on a single-storey extension off the kitchen to unlock even more potential and create an open-plan living/dining room connecting to the previously underused garden. The result is a bright, colourful and character-filled home that's bursting with ideas – pencils at the ready…

1. Have a contingency plan

Louise and Calum found themselves exceeding their budget early on. ‘The initial work was definitely more time-consuming than we’d anticipated and cost more than our £10,000 budget,' says Calum. 'As well as organising rewiring and replumbing, we reinstated the cornicing and picture rails, painted the stained wooden skirting boards and window surrounds, stripped and repainted all the doors and replaced all the light switches and plug sockets. 

'Luckily the walls had lining paper in place and were ready to repaint, but the ceiling needed four coats. Unfortunately the boiler died weeks after we moved in, so as well as having no heating or hot water, it meant the paint took ages to dry.'

2. Make the most of essential works

‘Our parents advised us to tackle one room at a time, but we attacked everything at once, ripping up the bedroom carpets too,' says Louise. Despite the upheaval, upgrading to a new combi boiler – a fairly unexciting task – gave the couple the idea to change the layout. 

'There were two cupboards off the hall and living room housing the old water tanks, which we knocked through to make a more sociable kitchen,' explains Louise. 'This meant removing a chimney breast, so we needed a structural engineer and building regulations in case it affected our upstairs neighbour’s property.'

3. Thinking of moving? Consider extending instead

‘In 2019 we wanted more space, but it would’ve cost far too much to buy a house in the area so we opted for an extension instead,' says Calum. 'The architect and builder were both fantastic. In the end, the expected 12-week project only took nine, even with adding integral bookcases and a patio – we realised it would have been a nightmare to landscape later, as the shared access path would be ruined again.'

‘We’d been thinking about extending for years, but when a neighbour gained planning permission for something similar, we realised it was feasible,' adds Louise. 'Calum had a new job and I got promoted, so we both had bigger salaries to afford the build. We’d only move if someone noisy moved in above, but luckily we have lovely neighbours, and the extension’s given us the space we need. We hardly use the old front living room now – we love the open-plan feel in here, and you don’t have to pause the TV if you get a drink!’

4. Use your skills to save money – and prepare to compromise

'Being a graphic designer I drew rough plans myself, but we hired an architect to create proper plans that would meet building standards,' says Louise. The couple took measures to shave off the pounds wherever they could. 

'We kept the kitchen in the same place and added an extra run of units,' Louise adds. 'I got a good deal on the kitchen units from Howdens and saved money by doing without a dishwasher and only having one pull-out carousel, which meant we could afford the £900 Karndean parquet flooring.'

5. Glazing is a worthwhile investment

Knowing where to spend and where to save is one of the most valuable skills in a renovation, and Louise and Calum are pleased they splurged on one purchase in particular. 'The new aluminium bi-fold doors are my favourite addition,' says Calum. 'We went for the biggest opening – as close to a giant window as possible. The patio becomes part of the room. Before, we only used the garden a few weeks a year, but now it’s used all the time; it gets the sun from about 11am till 8pm in the summer.'

6. Don't be afraid to mix and match

Louise's creative eye means she's adept at pulling a scheme together from seemingly mismatched pieces – and her home demonstrates how beautiful a space filled with vintage and upcycled treasures can be. The lesson? Matchy-matchy isn't always best.

‘At art college I was inspired by 1950s architecture, which I’ve mixed with contemporary pieces,' she says. 'I love the colour and richness of teak wood, so much of our furniture is from Gumtree and vintage shops. We hope our home feels cosy and welcoming as well as visually interesting.'

Vanessa and Andy Roberts bought their four-storey Edwardian semi in 2016 in the same town they'd recently renovated a converted coach house. It was one of eight built by the same architect and had been converted back into a house from three flats around 20 years ago. ‘The work had been badly done, but with 3,000 square feet to play with, there was lots of potential,' says Vanessa.

Initially, the couple had grand plans for their house renovation, including a basement kitchen and a mezzanine above, but the quote was too high. Instead, they created an open-plan kitchen-diner by knocking through the old kitchen and dining room, and rebuilt the entire back of the house with lots of glass. On the first floor, two small rear bedrooms, a bathroom, corridor and sunroom were transformed into an L-shaped master bedroom with en suite and a quirky reading nook/office overlooking the garden.

The couple hired interior designer Karen Knox of Making Spaces before the architect and builder came on board. ‘People imagine interior design to be all about cushions and paint colours, but Karen’s mind is so practical,' says Vanessa. 'As soon as she walks in a room she’ll instantly notice the position of light switches, how the door opens, if the carpet needs replacing and even whether it’s worth moving a radiator to free up space for a future wardrobe. Paint colour is the last thing on her mind!’

Although the couple have now sold their house, they’ve learned a lot from the project. ‘Don’t worry about other people’s opinions as taste is so personal and changes with time,’ says Vanessa. ‘Once you start tapping into that creative bravery, it can take you in any given direction. As long as it makes you feel happy, that’s all that matters.’

1. Use an aluminium curtain wall for industrial-style impact

Want instant impact in your space? Opt for aluminium doors or – if your budget can stretch to it – a curtain wall. ‘Our glazing manufacturer suggested this commercial aluminium curtain walling system as a budget alternative to Crittall windows for the six-metre-wide opening,’ says Vanessa. ‘It cost around £15,000 as opposed to £40,000+ for the real thing.’ A big investment, sure – but the result says it all.

2. Think outside the box for your kitchen surfaces

We love the finish of this quirky kitchen, complete with OSB wall and pine floorboards. FYI – these materials are cheap to use, too. Vanessa used the kitchen to balance out the cost of the glazing and window replacements for the front and back of the house. 'We had our hearts set on a black Ikea kitchen made from recycled bottle tops, but instead we opted for a pre-built German kitchen from a local shop. By the time you’d factored in labour for building the flat pack, the price difference was marginal.’

3. Bring texture in through your walls

Vanessa experimented with a new limewash paint to add texture to the snug in the corner of the kitchen-diner. A huge piece of artwork makes a bold statement, but the wall carries the rest of the space – and we love the bright pop of colour from the pendant light.

4. Go bold with wallpaper

When it comes to wallpaper, more is almost always better. Interior designer Karen Knox suggested wrapping the entire drawing room and guest bedroom in a bold design to embrace the dark side. ‘Without her we probably would’ve just wallpapered the chimney breast,' says Vanessa. 'She really pushed us creatively and we got braver the longer we worked with her.’

5. Pay attention to the little touches

A moody grey and black scheme is a running theme through Vanessa's house, but have you noticed the thread of neon pink in the rooms, too? Here, it's picked up in the wall mural and the bedspread – and there's even a hint on the edges of the en suite door, which is a fun playful way to add subtle colour to any space.

6. Experiment with your bedroom

A bedroom is the perfect place to try out design ideas you might be too scared to bring into the areas of your home that guests see more often. Here, Vanessa opted for plywood panels to create a larger-than-life headboard, contrasted with an enveloping black across the other walls and ceiling. Keep the accessories light to avoid overwhelming the space.

7. Built-in furniture can be chic

Plywood is the material of the moment, and we love the simple addition of a dressing table to a run of cupboards. Pop on a mirror, add a black stool for contrast, and you've got a contemporary take on built-in furniture that'll never date.

8. Terrazzo is always a good idea

In case you needed convincing, the case for terrazzo is right here in this pic. Choose a design that blends in with the rest of your scheme – like the grey in this bathroom – and you can treat it like any other surface. Pro tip: using large-format tiles on the other surfaces will contrast nicely with terrazzo's intricate detailing.

9. Introduce metallics in unexpected ways

Forget light fittings and brassware: look to your surfaces and other finishes to bring in metallic accents. This headboard is actually a panel painted with copper-effect paint, and the patina finish makes it look like it's been beautifully weathered over years. Vanessa tied the scheme together with copper-orange cushions and a throw, which contrast with the grey of the walls.

People say that you just know when a house is the right one for you as soon as you walk in – and that was definitely the case for Louise Potter when she went to view her Victorian four-bedroom property. Moving from Tunbridge Wells in Kent to live with her now husband, Sean, in Liverpool, Louise was instantly drawn to the house’s period features, such as the stained glass doors and windows, along with some of the original fireplaces.

The previous owners had purchased the house from a lady who had lived there since the 1920s and, luckily for Louise and Sean, had gone on to renovate it, which meant all the hard work had been done for them. ‘It wasn’t to my taste but it did mean that we didn’t have to spend our first few years in Liverpool doing DIY on the weekends,’ says Louise. ‘And on the plus side, all the difficult jobs, like replastering, sanding floors and stripping doors, had already been finished.’

• For more real home transformations, head to our hub page.

Changing the layout slightly to suit their family was top of the couple’s wish list, with plans to extend the kitchen and transform their bare yard into a little oasis in the city. Louise turned a spare bedroom into her office, while the living room at the back of the house was changed into a snug, leaving the front room as the main space for entertaining.

By far the biggest challenge for the couple was the kitchen and dining area remodel, which took about three months to complete. ‘We spent years deciding what to do and eventually settled on adding an off-the-shelf conservatory,’ says Louise. ‘We knocked through from the kitchen and dining room, where there was an existing large sash window. Although I designed the space, we hired a builder for the main building work, while Sean carried out all of the plumbing. Extending the kitchen with a standard conservatory rather than something bespoke was very cost effective.’

• Find more of our glass extension ideas.

Not all went smoothly, however, and an issue with the floor ended up doubling the
cost of the tiling. ‘We’d hoped we would be able to pull up the old quarry tiles and level the floor with the hallway,’ says Louise, ‘but the ground underneath them was very loose. This meant that the conservatory ended up being much lower than I wanted, which really bothered me at the time, but I don’t really notice it so much now.’

With the newly extended space creating extra room in the kitchen, a peninsular was added to house the hob, while open shelves have been used in place of wall cupboards to make the area feel even more open. ‘It’s a lovely light space,’ says Louise, ‘especially in the morning when your first view is through to the outside.’

• Find more conservatory ideas.

A lover of Scandinavian design, Louise admits the pale, minimal interior she craves can be tricky to achieve as she’s drawn to junk shops and vintage treasures. Instead, the house has been given a vintage Scandi vibe, with its original features shown off and some great pieces of furniture that Louise has picked up from antique fairs and been lucky enough to come across from her job in the interiors industry. ‘I love the long bench in the dining area I got on Ebay’ she says. ‘I was looking for something to paint but it turned out to be the perfect colour already.’

A lot of the artworks dotted around the couple’s house are by Louise, who sells prints from her company, CitySpace, in local shops and on Etsy. Elsewhere, you’ll find accessories from shops such as Rose & Grey, Rockett St George, Arket and
John Lewis & Partners – all go-to places for the couple when it comes to homeware.

‘It’s nice to be at the stage now where we’d only change furniture rather than decoration,’ Louise muses. ‘I always plan to be more minimalist, but “stuff” creeps in! We’ve taken our time and only put things in that we love, rather than following a trend. Your house is where you should feel comfortable – you need to let it grow with you.’

• Find all our bathroom renovation ideas.

More reading

• Side extensions – 18 ideas to help plan, design and budget for yours
• Kitchen shelving designs – practical and stylish open shelving looks
• How to lay decking and build a ground level construction yourself 

Often the first step of your project, measured surveys are vital as they gather up all the measurements and photographs your architect, planning officer, contractor (and much more!) will use throughout the journey. So, given how important this step is, it makes sense that you want the best service possible, right?

New technology hits the market

Commercial grade 3D scanners are a new way a surveyor can measure up your home. Rather than simply measuring the dimensions of your property, these lasers convert the entire space into millions of data points – essentially creating a digital twin of your home. 

This like-for-like model of your home can be a game-changer for a project. Now each professional you bring on board can explore your home in detail without the need for another site visit. Even more exciting is that this model can help your architect design in 3D.

The joys of 3D

'As a designer, I love working in 3D,' says Nick Stockley, Head of Design at Resi.co.uk. 'Homeowners can really appreciate designs when they’re not just flat, 2D lines on a screen. Using their online Dashboard, Resi customers can take a virtual tour of their future spaces at their leisure, so they’re sure their project is heading in the right direction. What’s more, my team can use the digital models to double-check measurements without the need for another site visit.'

However, it’s not just architects who are fans of this new technology. Contractors love having a 3D model to hand during the tendering stage. Not only can they troubleshoot potential site issues, but they can also put together a more accurate quote for you to consider.

Are these surveys right for me?

Though the technology has reached the market, 3D laser surveys aren’t widespread across the UK. The scanners themselves do require a large purchasing investment and many surveying companies are unwilling to make this commitment for small-scale residential projects. 

However, there are options out there and they don’t have to break the bank either. Some companies, such as Resi.co.uk, an all-in-one home improvement platform, offer 3D scanning at prices similar to those of traditional surveys. 

'Because of the time savings and the quality they produce, we’re able to offer 3D laser surveys at a cost-effective price. Essentially because it makes our lives much easier for the rest of the journey,' Lisa Westmacott, Head of Pre-Design at Resi, explained. 

'Because we look after everything from architectural design, building regulations, to helping our customers find a contractor, we want to make sure we understand every facet of a property, right from the very start. Ultimately, what’s good for the customer is good for us too!'

To learn more about 3D laser scanning, architecture and more, visit Resi.co.uk to book a free consultation.

Faced with the blank, magnolia shell of a new build, Geri Alessi wasn’t sure where to begin. ‘I’ve always lived in older properties, and there are always pre-existing features or styles you can work with,’ she says. ‘It’s harder trying to bring character to a brand new house. I’ve changed the living room alone five times in the years we’ve lived here!’ 

Geri and her husband Andrew bought their home in 2012, when their oldest daughter Emilia was a baby. ‘We liked the outside of the property,’ says Geri. ‘It had a traditional look – symmetrical windows, a big door – but when you walked in, it was very apparent it was a new house. It was totally plain, except for an awful red carpet that wasn’t what we’d asked for.’ Still, the rooms were spacious, and the couple could see the potential…

Looking to tackle your own project? We have masses of ideas and helpful advice on what to do and where to start in our feature on house renovation.

• For more real home transformations, head to our hub page.

Once they had moved in, Geri tackled Emilia’s room – ‘it was important to us that she could settle in straight away’ – before taking on the living room, dining room and master bedroom. The kitchen had to wait while the couple saved up. It was small for a five-bedroom house, so an extension was at the forefront of our minds,’ says Geri.

Five years later, and now with a second daughter, Luisa, the couple began planning the kitchen, bringing in an architectural design firm to help perfect their ideas. ‘We were looking at an L-shaped extension,’ says Geri. ‘But our designer encouraged us to knock through to the existing utility room to create a rectangular box, and use part of the old kitchen as the new utility. It would give us a bigger kitchen and utility – which makes a huge difference . We have a space to dry our clothes!’

• Find all our extension ideas for inspo.

From start to finish, the process took a year, thanks to delays to the planning application process and waiting for their builder to be free to do the work. Once it all kicked off, though, everything was smooth-sailing. ‘We were lucky in that our old kitchen was functioning until the very end, so we never had to do without,’ says Geri. ‘While it was a total state looking out of the window, it never intruded into our daily lives.’

• How much does a new kitchen cost in 2021?

The kitchen is a little more pared-back than the other rooms in the house, but it by no means lacks personality. ‘We played the design safe because it was expensive, and while we wanted to put our stamp on it, we didn’t want to do anything we might regret later on,’ says Geri. ‘We went for a classic Shaker style, then added things like the statement wallpaper on one wall.’ The couple maximised light with the large roof lantern and bi-fold doors, and by opting for open shelving rather than wall units. 

The resulting space is a bright room where the family can cook and eat together – very different from the living room, which is Geri and Andrew’s chill-out space. ‘We did worry that the living room would become defunct once the kitchen was in place, but it’s still the place we retreat to at the end of the day,’ says Geri. The finished look is the result of plenty of trial and error. ‘Because it’s such a big, narrow room, getting that cosy look was difficult,’ she adds. ‘We had a large, curved sofa that stopped everything from coming together. We only got rid of it last year, and suddenly everything else worked.’

Geri’s creative, colourful style flows through the house, from the bold wallpaper in the master bedroom and the home office – ‘I’ve always been obsessed with botanicals’ – to the unique paint effects in Emilia and Luisa’s room.

• All our best wallpaper ideas.

‘They share at the moment, but Luisa will have her own room soon, so I wanted Emilia’s scheme to be something she can grow into,’ Geri says. ‘The girls inspired the decor. Luisa is a bit of a firecracker, so I wanted to make sure I had something of her in there, but I wanted it to tie in with Emilia’s style. I’m a big fan of combining florals and abstract patterns – as long as you find colours that work together, you can’t go wrong.’

Have there been any design regrets along the way? ‘Nothing is permanent in interiors, so unless you’re investing huge amounts of money – like we did with our kitchen – you can’t possibly regret it, because you can change it without it costing the earth,’ says Geri.

‘I feel like everything is coming together now, and I’m at a place where I can enjoy all the rooms – but our kitchen is my favourite space. I didn’t realise the importance of having somewhere we could congregate as a family until we did it. We practically live in there, particularly in the past year – we’ve had the doors wide open when the weather’s been good. It’s the best decision we made.’

Biophilic design—incorporating nature in your living space—made a come back during the Covid-19 pandemic. With the stress associated with stay-at-home orders, homeowners longed for the calming effects of nature. What better way to achieve that than with a sunroom addition?

Sunrooms come in several designs but by definition, a sunroom is a room with large windows. It’s the windows, and the usage, that separates sunrooms from other home additions. And, with the recent rise in the cost of lumber, you may wonder if building a sunroom is less costly than a traditional home addition. How much does it cost to build a sunroom? And is it worth it?

Types of sunrooms

One important point is that a sunroom is not a greenhouse. A sunroom is designed to deflect the heat of direct sunlight, making the entire home more comfortable. It’s not designed to trap the heat in order to grow plants in the winter. Although, plants do love a sunroom. That said, a typical sunroom falls into two distinct categories: three-season and four-season. 

A three-season sunroom is for use during the comfortable seasons of the year. It may have fans to circulate the air, a window air conditioner, or a small heater to take the chill off in the morning. But for the most part, it lacks the insulation and utilities to make it tolerable year-round.

A four-season sunroom is insulated and climate-controlled. The roof, walls, and doors contain sufficient insulation to make its use comfortable all year. And, a four-season sunroom will have a knee wall about two-feet high in which to run electric wires for outlets or baseboard heaters.

• How to insulate a sunroom.

How much does it cost to build a sunroom?

Is a sunroom cheaper to build than a regular home addition? Not according to Ken Ward, president of Ward’s Remodeling, Inc. in Arlington, Virginia. “Windows drive up the cost,” he says. “They are much more expensive than typical wall area which includes siding, sheathing, insulation, lumber, and drywall.” 

Average costs published by the home services marketplace Angi confirms this assessment. According to Angi, it costs an average of $150 to $300 per square foot to build a sunroom and $80 to $200 per square foot for a home addition. Of course, a three-season sunroom would be on the lower end of that range and a four-season room on the upper end.

Sunrooms also come in pre-fabricated kits you can assemble yourself. Most homeowners use these to transform an existing patio or deck, which wouldn’t hold the weight of a traditionally built room, into a three-season area. Professional builders prefer to call them patio covers.

Besides choosing between site-built and prefabricated, other factors that impact the cost of a sunroom include: 

• The size of the room
• Whether you want to use the room year-round
• Where the room will join the home
• Your area of the country
• Permitting requirements
• The cost of labor and materials
• Any hidden problems

Keeping these variables in mind, Home Guide suggests the following average costs for different types of sunrooms.

• A 12-foot by 12-foot, three-season sunroom: $11,500 to $33,000
• The same size four-season sunroom: $28,500 to $47,500
• A solarium with a glass roof: $30,000 to $100,000
• A climate-controlled conservatory with peaked class roof: $50,000 to $150,000
• Costs included in adding a sunroom

Cost of sunroom permitting

According to Ward, the permitting costs for building a sunroom is the same as a home addition. The fees vary by location and the scope of the work. For instance, a four-season room will require additional permits for electrical and plumbing, if included.

Building permits must be secured before construction begins. Normally, the general contractor handles this task. The cost of a permit depends on the cost of the job. Generally, there’s a minimum for the first few thousand and then a rate per thousand above that. Some locations also charge fees for plan reviews. According to Angi, the average building permit costs $1,305, or anywhere between $424 to $2,239 for most jobs.

Site prep and landscaping

According to Ward, a traditionally built sunroom requires the same type of foundation as a room addition with either perimeter or pier footings that support the weight of the structure. You may find prices for a concrete slab sunroom foundation online for under $10,000, but Ward finds that unrealistic unless you’re purchasing a pre-fabricated, DIY kit that’s lightweight and of lower quality than a traditional build.

After the excavation to prep the site, you’ll want to replace the grass and add some other landscaping elements.

Contractor costs

In most areas of the country, home remodeling contractors charge by the project. This method actually helps you when planning your budget. Depending on your geographic location, Angi estimates their fee adding 10- to 20-percent to your project total. 

Potential hidden costs

A contractor’s goal is always to bring a project to completion at or below budget. But sometimes, there are things that come up after the job begins.

• Different types of window treatments are expensive. If you have close neighbors, you may want the added privacy that blinds or shades provide.
• Having to move outdoor elements to make room for the addition. Think about tree roots, outdoor spigots, or electrical panels.
• Adding a sunroom may increase your property taxes.
• The addition may also impact your insurance rates.

Ways to save on sunroom costs

As already mentioned, purchasing a pre-fabricated sunroom kit and installing it yourself could save you money on labor and the foundation. 

Choose less costly materials. “Low-e glass with argon gas between the panes protects your flooring and fabrics,” says Ward. But, those energy-efficient, UV-blocking windows cost more. If you’re building a three-season sunroom with minimal furnishings, economy windows will save on your budget. 

Build small. Most of the time trimming just a few feet from the overall square footage of any addition can save you thousands of dollars.

Pros and cons of adding a sunroom

Is adding a sunroom to your home worth the money and effort? Let’s take a look at a few pros and cons.

Pros:

• Protects the entire home from the heat of direct sunlight
• Provides added living area for entertaining, family gatherings, or getting close to nature
• Opens the view up from the home to see the mountains, beach, or garden
• Adds natural light to the adjoining rooms

Cons:

• Not as energy-efficient as a typical room addition
• Could increase utility expenses
• Unless window treatments are installed, a sunroom lacks privacy
• Windows need regular cleaning

Choosing a sunroom contractor

The success of your sunroom project largely depends on the skill of the contractor in charge of the job. To find the perfect team to build your sunroom, look for the following:

• Sunrooms are their specialty
• How long they’ve been in business
• They’re licensed and insured
• You feel comfortable talking with them and they listen to your ideas
• They have references and can show you jobs they’ve completed

Ask friends and coworkers for referrals when finding a contractor to select someone who meets these criteria.

Whether you choose to add a three-season sunroom or one you can use year-round, the uses abound. Imagine, enjoying a rain shower on a Sunday afternoon without the discomfort of getting wet. Or watching a meteor shower without having to slap at the mosquitoes. Sunrooms make the perfect play space for children, office space for the remote worker, or a protected location for your hot tub. 

There’s always a question to be faced if you find yourself in a home that is no longer fit for purpose – should you move or improve? A house move might seem like the most obvious solution if you’ve outgrown your current property, but making changes to the one you’re in – whether that’s a loft conversion, rear extension or an ambitious two-storey addition – could save you time and money.

That was certainly the case for Kier and Paul Rhodes. While their three-bedroom home felt more than big enough at first, when sons Harry and Jacob came along, the space seemed to shrink and the house no longer met their needs. The family were all set to move, but eventually decided to make a project of their current property instead. The addition of a wrap-around extension has given them a spacious open plan living-kitchen, two more bedrooms and another bathroom. We spoke to Kier to find out how they went about extending the house of their dreams.

‘We’d been planning an extension for eight years, but we couldn’t face the prospect of all the upheaval while the children were so young, so we decided to look for a bigger house instead,’ says Kier. ‘We liked the area and didn’t want to leave so we searched the surrounding villages. Unfortunately everything we saw was overlooked with a small garden.

‘In the end, we came full circle. We agreed to save the unnecessary expense of moving into a new house and decided to go ahead and extend instead. We’d moved here from a small house round the corner, which we rent out, so we had somewhere to stay while the major building work was being done. It just made a lot of sense.’

‘We realised that if we extended and redesigned the layout, we could have the house we were looking for. The kitchen is south-west facing with a private garden, so we wanted to make that the focal point of the house. With the help of John Mason of Ink Architectural, we drew up a wish list of everything we wanted from our new-look home, including a large living-kitchen leading directly onto a deep patio and the garden, and an entrance hall that linked directly to the kitchen so we no longer had to walk through the sitting room to get to the back of the house. We also wanted to create a utility and a homely office space directly off the kitchen.’

'Building work began in September 2017, then stopped at the end of October until we were able to move back into our old house while the rear wall was demolished. 

‘What should have been a short stay became a catalogue of disasters. We had heavy snowfall thanks to the Beast from the East. A pipe burst in our en suite, which led to water gushing down the stairs like Niagara Falls. It drenched the bedroom floor to such an extent the ceiling came down in the hall. Water leaked into our sitting room below, where our furniture was stored. It was a disaster! I was so disheartened I could’ve happily walked away from it at that point, but we had no choice.’

‘After the delays to the build were sorted, things started to improve quite quickly. The tarpaulin at the back of the house was replaced by a wall and bi-fold doors, and the interior finishes were completed, along with the tiled floor. We moved back into a bare house with an empty kitchen – just a tea-making station and fridge in the living area. 

‘We then went on holiday and left Paul’s parents to oversee the fitting of the new kitchen. It was very surreal to return to find it finished. The extension was so big it was more like a dance hall. It wasn’t until the new furniture was delivered and we unpacked things that been stored away for months that it felt like our home again.’

‘There are still some final touches to be done, but we have no regrets. The bi-fold doors across the width of the kitchen extension creates a direct link between inside and outside, so whatever the weather we still feel as though the garden is part of the house, instead of something completely separate. The kitchen extension is so multifunctional we spend most of our time as a family in here. Paul does all the cooking, so he can be in the kitchen area while the boys are doing homework or playing games and I’m catching up with a bit of work, all in the same space. It’s so much better than before. It was stressful at times during the build, but definitely worth it in the end.’

A basement conversion is an increasingly popular home improvement project. And, converting a basement could deliver the extra living space you need in your home while, if your home doesn’t already have a basement, excavating underneath it can be a great alternative to building out.

The second alternative is a major project, of course, but it can be worth the time and money, adding anything from a home gym, a playroom for the kids, space for guests, a studio, a movie theater, and more to your home. 

Whatever your basement ideas may be it's vital to get clued up on how to plan and design your basement conversion or remodel for the best success.

Basement conversion: before you start

You might choose to remodel and finish a basement on a budget, turning it into extra living space without breaking the bank. Digging out a brand new basement instead? Be aware that the following factors can make yours a more complicated – and costly – project. These include:

• If you need to divert drains beneath your house.
• If your home has solid concrete rather than timber subfloors.
• If your house is sited on difficult ground conditions (clay, made-up ground, sand or marsh).
• If the local water table is high, necessitating constant pumping.
• If access to the site is poor. 
• Always check with an experienced contractor to be sure that your home is suitable for a basement conversion.

Factor in the rooms you’re creating

The time taken and the cost of fitting out the interior of a basement conversion will very much depend on the function of the rooms within it. Turning it into a living area, or a home office, for example, will involve lower costs and involve less additional plumbing and electrical work than adding an extra kitchen. 

And if you’re considering basement bedroom ideas, you’ll likely want to provide a bathroom for guests or family members along with the sleep space, which will make the fit-out a bigger project.

Are basement conversions worth it?

Whether it is financially worth converting a basement depends on a number of factors: 

• The cost of the work versus the value added to your home (city-central, high value areas with little available land will give you the best profit potential). Ask a trusted local real estate agent for an idea of how much space is worth per square foot in your area. You can compare this to the cost of the basement conversion.
• If, of course, you are planning to remodel a basement rather than excavating a new one, your spend will be lower, and your profit potential higher.
• If this is the case and it’s a toss up between planning a loft extension at a similar cost, you'll need to weigh up whether you need more living space or more bedroom space.
• Check your property's ceiling value with the local realtor – it’s unwise to spend significantly more than you will add to your property's value on any project.

Want to do some of the work yourself to save? ‘Someone handy can finish a dry basement themselves by putting up studs, drywall, a ceiling, and flooring,’ says Ralph Severson, owner of interior remodeling company Flooring Masters. 

‘Electrical, plumbing, and adding vents to existing HVAC should be performed by professionals. Be sure to check that your furnace and AC can handle the added load of controlling the climate in your basement before taking on that task, and keep in mind that the basement will stay cooler. You will probably need to upgrade, or seek other means. 

‘Hire a licensed electrician for installing outlets and fixtures in the new space to keep it safe.’

Planning a basement conversion is so much more complicated than planning, for example, a single storey extension. However, much of the planning will be done for you by specialists since, unlike simpler additions, this is not a project that you can easily run yourself. These guidelines will ensure you’ve got all the planning that you can practically do yourself sorted in advance.

Do you need permission for converting a basement?

Knowing how to convert a basement involves being savvy about the rules. Check with your local building official to find out what’s permitted in regard to converting a basement in your area. They will be able to let you know about residential building code and zoning ordinances, and the different permits you will require for your project.

Be aware of the need for safety precautions in the event of a fire. ‘The concept of a fire escape doesn’t just apply to second stories,’ says licensed architect and renovation coach and founder of Kickstart House Mona Ying Reeves. 

‘It also applies to basements, and it’s called “egress”. Building codes will require some way for occupants to safely evacuate in case of fire, which means that you may need to dig beyond your basement to create lightwells and access for fire fighting and escape.’

Do you need planning permission to covert a basement?

In England and Wales, converting an existing residential cellar or basement into a living space is unlikely to require planning permission. This is provided it’s not going to be used as a separate property, and that the external appearance of the original house is not significantly altered.

Major works to excavate a new basement, adding a separate unit of accommodation, and/or altering the external appearance of your house, are likely to require planning permission, even if you’re converting or expanding on an existing cellar space. 

In all circumstances, you should contact your local planning authority for guidance before starting any work. You can apply for planning consent yourself, or employ a professional architect or specialist basement company to apply on your behalf. They will have an insight into local planning regulations and projects in the area that have been successful.

Converting a basement under permitted development rights

In England and Wales, converting an existing basement from, for example, a storage area into a habitable room can be completed under permitted development (PD) rights, unless you live in a Conservation Area or if your home is listed.

If working under PD, you may want to apply for a certificate of lawful development from your local authority; doing so will give you the paperwork to prove that your scheme met requirements and did not need planning permission.

The general PD criteria is on the government's planning portal, but check with your local council before you proceed because some areas have more restricted rights.

Building regulations for basements

To ensure your new basement is legally habitable, it will have to meet building regulations in England and Wales by achieving sufficient levels of insulation, creating emergency escape routes and having a minimum head height, which may require structural supports, such as steel beams. Any structural work you carry out will need to be passed by a building inspector to make sure that it won’t impact on the rest of your house or your neighbors’ properties.

Party wall agreements for basement conversions

The Party Wall Act provides a legal framework for preventing and resolving disputes in relation to boundary walls, party walls and excavations that are near neighboring buildings in England and Wales.

Unless you live in a detached house, you will need to reach an agreement with your neighbors over shared walls before converting your basement. The correct notices will need to be issued and consents obtained from all neighbors whose boundaries might be affected at least two months before work begins.

If you are using a contractor to design, manage and complete your basement project, they will usually deal with any party wall agreements that need to be reached, along with planning applications and building regulations. If not, you will need to instruct a surveyor; your neighbour also has the right to appoint their own surveyor, and you will be obliged to pay both surveyors’ fees. 

If you get your neighbors on board, they may consent to the work and there won’t be any fees involved, but you’ll need to get this in writing on a waiver form.

How deep does a basement conversion need to be?

How deep your basement conversion needs to be depends, to a large degree, on how you're going to use it. An intimate movie room or small home gym or utility area will get away with a lower ceiling height than a living space that you want to feel part of the original house. 

For the latter use, expect to have to dig deep (around 13 to 15 feet or 4m to 4.5m) to get a high ceiling (around 9 to 10 feet or 2.7m to 3m). This will also allow you to put in light wells and roof lights so that you get an airy, bright feeling room, despite it being at basement level.

Waterproofing the basement

Waterproofing an underground space is vital. In remodeling an existing basement, you might tackle damp from the inside, plus installing a drain and a pump that moves water out of the basement. A vapor barrier will protect against condensation. An exterior solution involves excavation in order to install an underground drain.

For a new basement, waterproofing involves applying a coating to the interior of the porous basement walls to create a waterproof barrier. This can be in the form of a membrane that is fixed to the walls or as some kind of waterproof render or sealant.

The two main methods to choose from are brush-applied tanking or a cavity membrane drainage system. 

In England and Wales, whichever you choose, products used for tanking a basement should be British Board of Agrément certified and you should receive an insurance-backed guarantee. 

Of course, adequate heating and ventilation will also help prevent condensation from forming.

Preventing damp in a basement

Water penetration can be tricky to control; it’s not unusual to find basements where two or three different systems have been applied but all have failed for one reason or another. 

‘Having a proper water retardant system designed by a waterproofing consultant or architect is essential to achieving a dry, conditioned space,’ says Mona Ying Reeves. ‘The moisture content and subfloor system will affect the materials you put in, too, such as whether your flooring warranty gets voided or not.’

For basements where the water table is higher than usual, or in old homes where the basement walls may be more porous, you will need to have a cavity membrane drainage system. This takes water out of the basement, either naturally or with an electric pump.

Think basement ventilation

Good basement ventilation is crucial. ‘No matter if you have a sunken basement or one that’s above ground, having a clear understanding of air quality will ensure that your new space is safe and healthy to be in,’ says Mona Ying Reeves.

‘Basements are damp. Having adequate air movement and ventilation from operable windows allows moisture to dry and prevents mold, fungus, and mildew.’

Be aware of radon gas, too. ‘Get your space tested for radon, which is a naturally occuring gas that emits from the ground,’ Mona Ying Reeves adds. ‘Radon is odorless, but can cause long term damage to your health. You’ll want to make sure you have the proper balance of sealing your basement as well as ventilating it.

Finding professionals for a basement conversion

A contractor with good experience of structural basement conversion or specialist basement conversion company will undoubtedly do the best job in converting your basement. A local contractor will not only be familiar with the rules in your area, but also with factors such as soil types, so appointing a local specialist should make the whole process smoother.  

As with any other building job, recommendation from friends and neighbors is your best bet. In the UK, follow up members of trade bodies such as the Federation of Master Builders to find reliable contractors.

Look for a heating contractor with basement experience, too. ‘Due to basements being more susceptible to cold, damp, and leaks, installing heating systems into a basement can be more challenging than with other areas of a home,’ says Volodymyr Barabakh, co-founder and project director of Fortress Home.

‘It is therefore well worth hiring a heating professional with specific expertise in installing heating systems in basements. When hunting around for the right contractor, ask about their specific experiences with basement installations and, if possible, hire off the back of a recommendation from someone who has had a basement installed themselves.’

How long does a basement conversion take?

Remodeling an existing basement, involving applying a membrane lining system, digging out the sump and fitting a pumping system will take just a few weeks.

A full basement conversion, involving underpinning of the existing house will take several months.

Live in or move out during a basement conversion?

This will depend very much on access: if there is access directly into your garden or the road outside for soil to be removed, and the existing ground floor of your home is constructed from suspended timber, it's likely that you can continue to live there while the basement is converted. 

If, however, your home has a concrete ground floor which has to be removed and rebuilt, you will almost certainly have to/want to move out.

Bear in mind that larger firms will be quicker but possibly more expensive; smaller firms will be less flexible but possibly cheaper in the long run – however the conversion might take longer with them.

Ensure your contractor has all the relevant warranties in place, and draw up a watertight contract. Ensure you are explicit within the contract about when payments will be made: payment upon completion of specific parts of work rather than weekly, for example, is a better route to take. 

Introducing natural light to a basement

A well-lit basement living space will add lots more value to your home than a dingy version with low headroom. Designing a basement conversion carefully is important to ensure that the new room feels like a natural part of the existing house, that it's flooded with natural light, that it doesn't feel enclosed or claustrophobic, and that each of the rooms' proportions is as good as can be. 

‘Walkout basements make this simple with illuminating door and window combinations,’ says Caitlin Bigelow, CEO of Maxable. ‘Modern clerestory windows can be another option.’

Light wells or skylights are a useful way of introducing light and ventilation into a basement. A small opening with a walkable grill over it can make a big difference to the feel of a basement space, and add real value. Larger openings can have a protective covering in toughened glass.

If space is limited, you could include a sunpipe that uses glass panels and angled mirrors to bring natural daylight down into your basement. Equally clever solutions include light-ducts and hi-tech fibre-optic cable systems, where special light fittings are linked via fibre-optics to a solar collector on the roof that will track the path of the sun and feed light down to the rooms below.

Glazed ceiling panels in the ground floor above are another way to bring down borrowed light and suit more contemporary properties, while you may want to consider installing glazed doors – either sliding or bi-fold – out to the garden if the design of your basement allows.

Simple tricks such as painting the walls of any lightwells in bright white and keeping garden foliage above neatly trimmed will help natural daylight travel down into your basement space, too.

Choosing doors and windows for your basement conversion

The style of any doors and windows should be matched to those of your existing home for a cohesive look – or to those of the basement's architecture if it's designed to contrast. You may have little choice about their positions, sizes and shapes, but you can get the frame materials and sightlines just right. 

Go for the widest panels and the slimmest frame materials possible, especially for bi-fold doors; doing so will give you uninterrupted views into a garden or submerged patio, and will allow in plenty of light, too.

Consider basement ceiling heights

The ceiling height in a basement should, ideally, be in proportion to those of the house above. It may not match those of the living spaces on the first floor, but it should at least match those of the bedrooms on the second floor. Keeping the ceiling heights the same within the basement will help it feel well designed, too. 

What is the minimum ceiling height? New homes generally have a ceiling height of 9 feet on the first floor and 8 feet on the second (although some older homes have higher ceilings), and it’s preferable to use these as a minimum. 

In the UK, 2.3m to 2.4m is standard, and here increasing ceiling height by reducing the floor level of an existing basement is treated as an extension and so may need planning permission. 

Fitting out the basement's interior

The interior layout is an important part of designing a basement conversion. Whether you go open-plan or create a series of smaller rooms largely depends on the structure itself, available daylight at each end of the basement and your needs. 

As well as thinking big picture – how you will use the room – consider the details, too. For example, matching the design of the staircase to that of the one going up to the second floor will help the basement feel like a natural part of the house. Similarly, picking features such as baseboards, moldings, doors, and flooring that echo those of the rest of your home will also make the new space feel like it's always been there.

Lastly, consider the lighting carefully. It's likely, despite your best efforts, that the basement rooms are darker than those in the rest of your home. So, ensuring the that right type of light (with daylight-mimicking lightbulbs, for example) reaches potentially dark corners as well as the main spaces and that lighting is on more than one circuit so that you can provide different light levels depending on how the room(s) are being used, is vital. 

Act like you are designing a north-facing room to make the most of the natural daylight, too.

Building an extension is an exciting project. After all, it will deliver the extra space you need in your home without the hassle of moving to a new one. It might also help you create the more open layout you want on the ground floor, and provide a better link from your home to your garden.

Of course, house extensions are an investment, so you’ll want to be sure you spend your budget wisely and achieve the results you’ve envisaged. And it’s also important to minimise the disruption that a building project inevitably brings.

So you can ensure your extension project runs smoothly, we’ve put together a complete list of dos and dont’s. We’ve called on the experts, including architects, builders and designers of the interior design world to furnish you with all the knowhow you need. 

1. Do: get detailed plans drawn up

Good design is about producing plans that clearly detail all the elements your builder will need to work to – right down to the depth of any steel poles that need to go in and the size of the window openings. The more that’s shown on the drawings, the less chance there is of things going off course.

‘It is very important that you get good plans drawn up,’ confirms Keith Myers, MD of The Myers Touch. ‘The better plans you have, the better it is to communicate what you are intending to have done by a third party – a builder, interior or kitchen designer. If the plans are poor quality it leaves a lot open to interpretation and misunderstanding on what can be presented and then will be produced. 

‘Good design is about having plans that clearly detail all elements your builder will need to work with. The more detailed the drawings, the less chance you have of the project rearing of course.’

2. Don’t: forget to factor in the boiler

A bigger home means more work for the boiler, and yours may not currently have the capacity.

‘When building a home extension, many homeowners assume that their current boiler will be able to heat their new, larger home, as effectively as their existing home,’ says Volodymyr Barabakh, co-founder and project director of Fortress Home.

‘In reality, boilers can only supply a finite amount of heat. Therefore with larger extensions, it may be necessary to upgrade your boiler. This needs to be worked out and budgeted for before you start your build.’

3. Do: know which is the best extension type for you

When you’re deciding how to extend a house, think through the options. ‘Generally, local governments allow wrapround extensions, but this might vary from council to council,’ says director of Plus Rooms James Bernard. ‘We find that the requirement is often to have a reduced wall height against the boundary wall, so it is an ideal choice for you if you own a terraced property with a side return space.

‘A wraparound extension will be more expensive than a rear extension, but you obviously get a much bigger space as a result and it’s important to keep in mind that the value per square metre is much better.’

4. Don’t: assume getting planning permission will make the project longer

Wondering whether, for speed, it’s better to avoid the need to apply for planning permission for a single storey extension, and follow the permitted development (PD) route? Wrong...

‘A lawful development certificate will take the same amount of time as planning permission,’ says Becky Wootton, associate architect at Architecture for London. ‘Costs are similar and PD is more restrictive. It might be more straightforward though, in that the response from the planners should be a simple yes or no which you can anticipate beforehand, as the rules are very clearly set out. 

‘PD shouldn’t take design into consideration, as long as the proposals are within the rules. Planning permission can be more subjective, and is subject to the whims of the planning officer, but it can mean you can get permission for more extensive work, and might be able to do something more interesting.’

5. Do: choose the right architect

If you want to work with an architect, look for practices with relevant experience. ‘Ideally they will have completed a similar type of project in the past,’ says Becky Wootton at Architecture for London. ‘Meet the architect and their team to see if you get on with them.’

6. Do: minimise the unknowns

When main contractors quote for work, they are gathering lots of individual prices for the dozens of mini jobs that make up your project. ‘Everything in construction has a price and it is important that you are clear in all the specifications when pricing up your extension,’ says Keith Myers of The Myers Touch. 

‘The way to avoid costs changing wildly is to be very clear on specifications from the start and try not to change your mind too many times as that will add to the bill.’

7. Do: get a fixed estimate of the build cost

So many different elements influence a builder’s price that it is impossible to predict what figure they’ll give you. Use our extension cost calculator to get a good estimate, or send your plans to a cost-estimating company such as Estimators Online, who – for a fee in the region of £100 – will give you a detailed breakdown of the costs associated with your project.

‘It is normal for builders’ quotes to vary massively, so don’t go with the first quote you get,’ advises William Durrant, designer and owner of Herringbone Kitchens, who has worked on hundreds of extension projects with clients from the get-go. ‘It will depend on how busy they are, what else they have in your area, how much they want the job and how well they think you’ll work together. Remember – cheap is not always best!’

8. Don’t: be lured by a builder who gives a low estimate

And, while we’re on the subject of estimates, remember the old adage that if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. 

You might be tempted to accept the lowest price but remember that a particular builder might a) not know what they’re doing or how to price a job properly, b) be a cowboy builder who will do a poor quality job and cut corners or c) be a builder who constantly finds extra add-on costs to bump up the price in a way that’s poorly controlled. 

To be safe, always get three quotes and know the signs of a cowboy builder to make sure you avoid them.

9. Don’t: forget building regulations

Home extensions are subject to the building regulations, so you need to be aware of the rules. ‘Building regulations have become increasingly tighter around house extensions that may affect a home's energy efficiency,’ says Chris Salmon, operations director of conveyancing specialists Quittance Legal Services.

‘Any work that may affect the heating or drainage of a home falls under this remit. This includes the replacement of windows, chimneys, addition of bathrooms and installation of boilers and radiators.

‘To comply with building regulations you need to make sure that: you have confirmation from Building Control that your plan meets required standards before you start the work; that all your contractors have the required certifications; and that you and your contractors accept the possibility of inspections during the project.’

10. Do: future-proof your design

Yes, how your extension will work immediately is vital, but you should also think about your future needs for your home. 

‘Carefully consider the configuration of doors and windows to make the most of the extension, ensuring that the space is efficiently utilised and is future-proof as a family grows to prevent further building work down the line,’ says Victoria Brocklesby, COO at Origin. 

‘For example, using bi-folding doors with no threshold will prevent small children tripping and create a large entertaining space with a seamless transition from between the inside and outside.’

11. Do: plan for storage of materials

It’s almost inevitable that you'll need a place to stow away the heavy materials associated with an extension. Where will they be stored? Are they secure? Will the storage stop you accessing your driveway? Thinking about this early on in the process can minimise stress later on.

12. Do: choose the right builder

A good builder is more than just a skilled tradesperson. Look out for one who has a loyal team they can call on at a moment’s notice; one who provides a clear, agreed payment schedule; and, most of all, one with a positive, problem-solving attitude. 

It’s important to be a good client, too. ‘When builders are in demand they will be looking for clients who are easy to work with, decisive, good payers and trustworthy,’ says Keith Myers from The Myers Touch. ‘Try to form a strong relationship with the right builder who sees your extension as a collaborative project.’

13. Do: agree prices with everyone upfront

One of the most stressful moments in any project is when the invoices arrive – particularly if they’re more costly than expected. The blame for this may lie with you, for not being clear about what you want or changing your mind, or the tradesperson, for not communicating how costs were mounting up. 

The best way to avoid surprises is to all keep lines of communication open and be clear on variations to the original specification when it comes to costing your extension.

14. Do: have a contingency plan

Extension projects involve remedial work to the existing house – the extent of which is impossible to predict before the build starts and can incur unexpected costs. You might also decide to do further planned work at the same time to save on fixed costs for this at a later date.

15. Do: be on top of planning consent

Getting planning consent (if you need it) isn’t the end of the story. You will also need to make sure you discharge any conditions they have made on the approval prior to starting on-site. These typically include providing details on landscaping schemes or external materials.

16. Don’t: use unusual materials

Asking builders to forego their many years of experience to create something totally bespoke, or to use materials that are alien to them, is not the path to a smooth project. You are introducing unknowns into your scheme – which can result in unpredictable cost and scheduling outcomes. Go with what the builder knows – in most cases, they do know best.

17. Do: talk to kitchen companies early in the process

If your project is a kitchen extension, it’s important to make sure it can accommodate everything you want. ‘It is a good idea to get an initial design and quote from your kitchen company early in the planning process, after you have planning permission ideally,’ recommends William Durrant of Herringbone Kitchens. ‘This ensures you won’t run into design limitations further down the line.’

18. Do: be aware of the requirements for period homes

If you are making use of your permitted development rights, be aware of the rules. ‘If your property is a period home, you may be tempted to go for a contrasting modern extension, but don’t be drawn in by bold design, as the materials of your proposed permitted development extension should match the existing appearance of your house,’ says Ana Popovic, senior designer from chartered architecture and planning practice Urbanist Architecture. 

‘If you do want a more interesting-looking extension, you will have to go down the planning application route, and might end up with something a bit smaller.’

19. Don’t: micro-manage your builder

The building industry has its own unique ways of working, and some elements are not as customer-focused as you might be used to. Builders, particularly towards the end of a project, might go missing for the odd afternoon to meet potential new clients, or occasionally they might take a week’s holiday. It will all get done in the end.

20: Do: plan ahead to minimise disruption during the works

Unless you are moving out for the duration of the work, you need to be ready for the upheaval.

‘Depending on the type of extension you choose, your daily life can be affected by the works and that is something you will need to anticipate,’ says director of Plus Rooms James Bernard. ‘Setting up a temporary kitchen in another room is always something we look to do, when the original one is decommissioned.’

21. Don’t: neglect cash flow

Almost any problem on-site during an extension project can be solved with money – and if you haven’t got it to hand, you can’t get anything done. Be honest with yourself about your finances and make sure you know where the money is coming from for each invoice.

22. Don’t: miss delivery deadlines

Increasing numbers of home extenders are buying their own materials – especially big ticket items like kitchens and windows. Make sure you order the materials early and get them delivered to the site in plenty of time. Work out the delivery deadlines with your builder – you don’t want to be the cause of costly delays.

‘I’d recommend allowing for a lead time of around two or three months following placing an order, accounting for current supply chain logistics,’ says Stephen Beresford, head of marketing and communications at window and door suppliers REHAU.

23. Don’t: be unclear about who's doing what

If you're taking responsibility for individual elements of the project, be clear with your builder where the boundaries lie. You might want to take on some of the final fittings, fit the flooring or do your own decorating, but it’s not always straightforward where one job starts and another ends. You might be fitting your own doors – but who will fit the door linings? If you’re doing the floor finishing, who is responsible for ensuring the floor is level?

24. Do: factor in time for flooring

Be aware that the requirements when laying certain types of flooring can slow an extension project down, sometimes because of drying times. ‘Concrete screed takes roughly one day per mm deep,’ says William Durrant of Herringbone Kitchens, ‘and some wooden floors need time to acclimate to your space which can take two weeks.’

25. Don’t: let the site get untidy

Extensions create a lot of rubble and waste. Make sure your builders are in a regular routine of rubble management and, if they’re not, do it yourself. It keeps dust down to a minimum and it saves a big job right at the end of the project. It will also ensure you can get ‘back to normal’ as quickly as possible once the job is over.

26. Don’t: be without dust barriers

To avoid getting dust in places where it's impossible to get it out, move all your furniture into storage during the project. If you can’t do that, then be strict about wrapping the furniture properly in dust sheets. Use dust barriers over doors (such as Dust Guard). Additionally, having a wet/dry vacuum cleaner around is a good idea if you don’t want to totally ruin your expensive Dyson.

27. Don’t: let children and the building site mix

It goes without saying that having tools, heavy materials and lots of activity in your house is dangerous, particularly for young children. Keep your site tidy and ensure that tools get locked away every night by the tradespeople. Consider moving children away from the house during the most disruptive elements of the project.

28. Don’t: start work at the wrong time of the year

Ideally, you should aim for the construction of your extension to commence in March or April, when there’s little chance of the ground being too frozen to dig, or the air being too cold for brickwork. As the extension project begins to make the house feel more open to the elements, it’s much better to experience unplanned alfresco dining in summer than in winter. Not to mention, the lack of a heating system for a few weeks is more palatable in July than in January.

‘Extensions are always better done when the weather is warmer, and it generally takes longer to do an extension during the winter,’ says Keith Myers from The Myers Touch. 

‘However, the start time for an extension is dictated by a builder's availability. If they come highly recommended, chances are they’ll be fully booked well in advance and the best advice is to get them booked in as soon as you can. If you can specify a date, it is better to wait until the spring to start a home extension.’

29. Don’t: forget to get the right insurance

Despite your best efforts, all sorts of things can go wrong with an extension project. The right renovations insurance will help to put your mind at ease. Notify your existing home insurance provider of your plans before you start and, if necessary, ensure you buy specialist extension insurance to cover the structural elements – in addition to unexpected mishaps such as materials going missing, or accidents happening to people on-site.

30. Do: have a positive mental attitude

How you approach the project mentally will have a massive impact on how it affects you. Despite all our best efforts, things do occasionally go wrong. Are you a problem-solver and constructive, or are you predicting failure before it’s happened? Do you go from serenity to full-blown stress in a few seconds, or are you able to shrug your shoulders and deal with difficulties in a positive way? Manage your expectations – this is going to be a tricky few months with a mixture of brilliant epiphanies and a fair share of alarms. If you can ride the project rollercoaster with a smile, it can make all the difference. The outcome, of course, will always be worth it in the end.  

• Pic (top): Plus Rooms

Kitty and Kieran both grew up in West Sussex and had always been fond of Southwick, a small town on the Sussex coastline. ‘It’s centred around a large, leafy village green and with its ancient Saxon churches and traditional high street, you feel like you’ve been transported back in time,’ says Kitty. ‘There’s also easy access to both the Sussex Downs and the sea, which provide a constant source of inspiration for my artwork.’

Living in a smaller property nearby with their daughter Orla, the couple were on the hunt to buy a larger family home locally when this late Victorian property came up directly on the green. ‘We knew instantly it was the one for us,’ Kitty says. 

If you have plans to add on to a period home, see our advice on extending a house.

The property looked impressive from the façade but hadn’t been decorated for a long time. Many of the original features had been stripped away and the whole house was covered in swirls of Artex. It was tired but spacious with a beautiful back garden, and with the potential to eventually extend, Kitty and Kieran knew they could turn it into their perfect family home.

‘We were a busy household over the next few years,’ says Kitty. ‘Osheen and Rory were born and any big plans we had for the house took a back seat as we focused on our young family. We landscaped the front and back garden just after we moved in but slowly worked our way through the house when we found the time, skimming over the Artex-covered walls and reinstating period features like fireplaces, ceiling roses, coving, high skirting boards and dado rails.’

When the chaos of sharing one bathroom became too much, the couple reconfigured their master bedroom, adding a much needed en suite. ‘We knocked down a stud wall where a dressing room had been, replacing it with our existing Ikea Pax wardrobe units that our carpenter cleverly adapted, creating built in wardrobes and a new dividing wall for the bathroom,’ says Kitty. ‘We gained storage space, our own bathroom, and we wake up every morning now with beautiful views of the village green!’

The original kitchen was functional but small, with an adjacent playroom and a downstairs toilet. Beyond that was the garden, which could only be accessed from the side. ‘Everything felt closed off and we had no sight of the children if they were in the playroom or messing around outside,’ says Kitty. ‘We wanted to extend out and open up the whole area, offering the same functionality but allowing the spaces to flow and work better for us a family.’

• Open plan kitchen ideas. 

When work finally began, Kitty and Kieran knew exactly what they wanted to achieve from the renovation. ‘Darren from LCE Architects was completely on board with our vision and drew up perfect plans that our builder and his team were able to skilfully interpret,’ says Kitty. Over the course of five months, the kitchen and playroom were extended out two metres to the width of the main house. With steel supports in place, the kitchen, playroom and downstairs toilet were all knocked through and the back rebuilt to accommodate new bi-fold doors. ‘We stayed in the house during the renovation, which was a bit makeshift at times, but quite an adventure. It made us think about day-to-day living in a different way, eating countless take outs and washing dishes in the bath. It was exciting watching the space evolve.’

A new kitchen was installed with a large central island – perfect for socialising. ‘It was higher spec than originally planned and took us slightly over budget, but being a key area of the house, we felt the extra the money was worth spending,’ Kitty explains. ‘We built a new utility in the space, which helped divide the area into three zones – kitchen, dining and living. We also had it soundproofed to stop the noise of the washing machine creeping into the living areas.’ Along with a new boiler and underfloor heating, smart technology was fitted throughout. Kieran’s late father, Laughlin, did all the new plumbing, and they also cut costs by doing a lot of the snagging and decorating themselves.

There’s a lovely flow to these areas now, which continues through the rest of the house. ‘Although we’re a family of five, it never feels overcrowded,’ Kitty says. The garden has become an essential part of the new layout, with easy access from the living space through floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors. The icing on the cake is Kitty’s studio, an outhouse constructed in the side return using corrugated Perspex for the roof and the old patio doors. ‘It gives me space away from the children to create and keeps the new extension free of clutter,’ says Kitty. ‘Ten years on and we are delighted with our home – it’s exactly how we want it to be. We’ve been patient and planned everything around the needs of our family, and the result is a joy to be in.’

You know they’re both fabulous garden rooms, but what is the difference between conservatories and orangeries? It’s a question you’ll want to ask when you’re thinking about extending your home so you invest wisely and get additional space that meets your needs, and fits your budget.

The good news is that either could provide you with an elegant light-filled room with great garden views. But when you need to decide on conservatory vs orangery, getting savvy about their different characteristics is essential.

So, bearing in mind that clever conservatory ideas or a great orangery can both get you the extra square footage your home is lacking, here’s the inside track for everyone who’s ever asked what’s the difference.

What’s the difference between conservatories and orangeries?

The difference between orangery designs and conservatories is actually all in the roof and the sides of the structure. Note that the interior will have a different atmosphere as well.

Conservatory vs orangery glazing

Let’s start with the greatest difference between conservatories and orangeries. This is found in the amount of glazing the room incorporates, starting from the roof. 

When it comes to conservatories vs orangeries, the former definitely trumps the latter when it comes to how much glazing is in the roof. In fact, a conservatory is likely to have a roof that’s more than 75 per cent glazed. An orangery roof, on the other hand, is generally less than 75 per cent glazed. Note, also, that an orangery could have a solid roof. 

The sides of a conservatory also have a larger amount of glazing than those of an orangery.

Conservatory and orangery structure

The proportion of glazing is not the only structural difference in the conservatory vs orangery stakes.

The roof of a classic orangery is inset, and it has a shallower pitch as well. Why? It reflects the building’s historical origins. 

When it comes to the sides of the building, an orangery will have sizeable rectangular columns – strictly speaking, pilasters – and an entablature or upper part above them. Altogether, it’s an addition to your home that’s going to look more substantial and, built using brick or stone and perhaps with a rendered finish, an orangery’s structure can be truly sympathetic to your home’s architecture.  

In fact, a bespoke orangery could be an even more solid structure that’s more akin to a single storey extension and which features large windows and sets of doors plus a glazed roof but retains the traditional appearance of an orangery.

A conservatory, however, makes for a ‘finer’ impression because it is a relatively more delicate structure than an orangery, especially if it’s built with aluminium framing. Of course, wood is also an option for a conservatory build, as is uPVC, although that will make for a bulkier frame. 

The interiors of conservatories and orangeries

It’s important when you’re choosing between a conservatory and an orangery that you consider how it's not just about how either will look from the outside. The differences on the outside of the two structures also make a difference to their interiors also.

More windows on the sides and a more highly glazed roof make a conservatory interior more intimately linked with the garden, and also mean more daylight will reach the room. 

Overall, it can be seen as more of a garden room, with its large amounts of glass, and it is often separated from the rest of the house by external-grade doors – although contemporary constructions are thermally efficient enough to be open to the rest of the house, just as glazed extensions would be.

The structure of the roof of an orangery means there will usually be an inset ceiling around the room – useful for lighting – and it will feel more extension-like and solid than a conservatory.

It will also appear more like a natural continuation of the architecture of the original house as brick walls will let you consider different colours and finishes. 

Is an orangery better than a conservatory?

Does the difference between conservatories and orangeries make an orangery a better option than a conservatory? It is true to say that orangeries are far more versatile in style than conservatories yet they don’t usually cost as much to construct as a single-storey extension (depending on the design), which can make them an excellent choice.

Another plus point of an orangery is that you can opt for a kitchen orangery, creating a space for cooking and dining with wonderful garden views. A design with sections of solid wall provides the necessary space for kitchen cabinetry.

Is an orangery cheaper than a conservatory?

When it comes to the cost difference for both, generally speaking, an orangery is not cheaper than a conservatory.

It is possible to find the two structures at prices starting from around £10,000, but this would likely be for more basic orangery materials and usually you would expect to pay from £35,000 for a good quality design. 

Be aware, too, that an orangery with a kitchen, and other factors like size and materials, will increase the cost.

As soon as they walked through the arched entranceway of this beautiful 1920s property, Claire and Brad knew that this house was going to be their forever home. Despite its cold and unwelcoming décor, the couple fell in love with the period character of the house. They put in an offer within hours of viewing, and soon had the front door keys in their hands. Their aim? To transform this soulless house into a cosy and stylish home for their growing family.

The couple began decorating within weeks of moving in, and five years down the line, the work hasn’t stopped. This DIY-loving pair took on the build themselves so they could stick to their modest budget. As an ex-builder, Brad tackled the extension with help from his family. The first big project was the kitchen renovation, overlooking the garden. Together, Claire and Brad have transformed this home into a modern open-plan space.

Inspired to tackle your own project? We have masses of ideas and helpful advice on what to do and where to start in our feature on extending a house. 

'All the houses on our street are gorgeous, with so much character and original period features,' says Claire. 'We love the location, which is close to the beach and schools. By pure luck, we saw the For Sale sign going up outside this house, and we called the estate agent straight away as these houses sell immediately. We were the first to view it, and we made an offer within hours.

‘We had £60,000 in our budget for renovations, which isn’t much considering our grand plans for the place. But as Brad is an ex-builder, he took on the building works himself with the help of his dad and brother to save us money. In the summer of 2016, he started the extension across the back of the house. He worked really long hours, laying the footings, putting on the roof and fitting the kitchen. It was all on his shoulders, and I have so much respect for his work ethic.

‘At first I went a bit crazy with my kitchen design and we were quoted £30,000! I had to drastically scale back my ideas to match what we could afford. Top of my list were navy kitchen cabinets, but I had to really hunt around to find them. To save money, I went for two different worktops with contrasting quartz and wood. I’m very happy with the overall design, especially considering our budget constraints. I have a plant addiction and my indoor jungle is growing all across the house. They love the daylight in here.

'Our extension is the most successful project we’ve done to date. The large open-plan room is ideal for our young children to play in, and it’s such a sociable space. My style is a mishmash of eclectic pieces. I’m a magpie when it comes to interiors and love using reclaimed furniture in my rooms. I found these Ercol chairs locally for £75 for four and I paired them with our old Habitat dining table. On our to-do list is to build booth seating with a longer table to host dinner parties.

'We did the cane webbing on these cabinets in the sitting area during the March lockdown last year. I’d been planning them since we moved in but had never found the time. I designed them using Pinterest and Instagram for inspiration and my husband built them. We keep the children’s toys in there so the living room stays clutter free.

'Our decorator tried to talk me out of painting this room navy. My advice is not to listen to anyone but yourself! As a north-facing room, the dark blue transforms it into a cosy spot. The armchair adds a bold pop of colour against the navy walls. I had it upholstered in a plush velvet for around £500, which is less than a new chair would cost. The oriental rug was an Ebay bargain for £100. I love hunting for great finds, and I’ve collected loads of prints from junk shops over the years – I look out for oil paintings or copies of iconic art.

'We inherited the bathroom suite, which was in good shape but felt clinical. The paint colour is called Canopy Green by Sanderson, and I painted the bath black to add a spot of drama. Using a tip I learned from interior designer Abigail Ahern, I painted the whole room green – the light switches, the woodwork, uPVC window frame and even the ceiling – for a seamless look. Plants hung all over the place finish off the room, I use them in all my room schemes.

• Love green bathrooms? See more here

'In Ida’s room, I handpainted the scallops on the ceiling in Quiet Turquoise by Valspar. I found the drawers in a local antiques shop. She loves to craft and draw, so for a surprise Christmas present, little elves snuck into her room and made a desk for her from a plank of wood, a filing cabinet and an Ikea bracket!

'This is probably the most calming and relaxing bedroom I’ve ever slept in. I painted the walls and ceilings in Pointing by Farrow & Ball, which is a soft, off-white. We lifted up the laminate floor to reveal oak floorboards, which were sanded and oiled to be a similar tone to the walls. The retro G-Plan dressing table was given to us by some friends who were having a clear out. The silk Oriental screen was from Ebay – it’s a vintage room divider that Brad hung on the wall for me. I was actually looking for a bamboo headboard but at £90 this was too much of a steal to ignore.'

If you’re contemplating a new and exciting home renovation project – think a loft conversion, total remodel or creating an open plan space – and want to take your ideas to the next level, you're going to appreciate all the advice and expertise you can get.

When it comes to any DIY project, from fitting your own kitchen to installing a new toilet, the lines are somewhat blurred when it comes to the parts of a project that you should confidently take on yourself, and when you should be contacting a professional for deeper insight – whether you're an experienced homebuilder or not.

Hiring a structural engineer could make the difference between a house renovation that runs smoothly and successfully, and one that is stressful – not to mention more costly. 

From both a visual and a safety perspective, it's worth searching the Institution of Structural Engineer's database. This free service will put you in touch with structural engineering practices, with professionally qualified staff, so that you can get the advice you need.

Quality within reach

Additional costs are one of the main turn offs with home improvement and building projects. Which is why the fact that it's free for homebuilders and renovators to search the database and find a local structural engineer, is an extra perk.

With no compromise on efficiency or ease of use, only structural engineering practices with professionally qualified IStructE members are able to become a part of the scheme. Meaning that you will only be put in touch with industry experts that are at the forefront of the profession and sure to give your project the mark of technical excellence that it deserves.

New practices are joining all the time so you should find the help you need.

Building with clarity

As with any sizeable home improvement project, you'll want to ensure that your building is structurally sound and that working conditions are safety assured to industry standards. Part of the service that a structural engineering practice provides is structural surveys. These identify any structural faults and issues (or lack thereof) with a building.

Your structural engineer will work with your architect and contractor to bring your project to life in a safe manner, identifying and managing the risks associated with your project.

Different surveys can be done, depending on the age of the building/property and on your requirements. Structural engineers will then work with your architect to draw up the best plans to achieve your expected outcome.

Pushing your project to the next level

Introducing a structural engineer in the early stages of your project can make for an even more successful result. Going open-plan isn't just about joining two types of  space together for example. Getting a professional's perspective and expertise from the start could widen your options and elevate your project to a whole new level. 

It doesn't stop there. Basement and loft conversions are increasingly popular home improvement projects. Turning unused dead space into a liveable and beautiful area for the whole household to enjoy is one of the most exciting projects around. But these can be complex projects. It's this type of home reno that will benefit immensely from the input of a structural engineer that is able to carry out a full structural survey. 

This involves a full inspection of a property to understand the structural behaviour of the building and whether any work could negatively impact the home or surrounding properties and to make recommendations to help you get the most out of your space. The survey will look for any movement or potential subsidence and other eventualities to ensure you peace of mind that work can be carried out successfully and whether the building is behaving as it should.

Smooth progression

As with any reno, it's essential to consider all of the eventualities. Unfortunately, if you haven't planned for any spanners in the works – a missed alcove or structural issue – and if these become a problem mid-project,  it can drive costs (and stress-levels) up.

A visual inspection can help produce technical designs and drawings for home remodels. This is fairly brief and designed to understand the general configuration of the main structural elements which in turn, will help finalise plans to help everyone working on your project deliver in an effective and efficient way.

The purpose of a measured survey on the other hand is to measure up the property, to help create accurate technical plans and to draw up any structural calculations needed, usually this can be done from detailed Architects' drawings. A visual inspection shouldn't be needed additionally to this but your structural engineer will let you know if they need to visit, and if they will need access to your property.

From more defined designs to better planning, searching the IStructe database and having a professional's input from the onset is a brilliant way to pull your home renovation project of dreams together successfully, and  smoothly.

For some people (myself included!), a garage is an essential part of the home. A garage provides convenience and safety, and keeps vehicles looking newer for much longer than if they were exposed to the elements. It can also provide extra storage and additional living space. 

And there’s another advantage as well. “A garage has great ROI, so you’re likely to earn back 60-80 percent when it comes time to sell your home,” says Bailey Carson, home expert at Angi. But whether it’s plain, extravagant, or somewhere in-between, the garage needs to be functional.  

If you’re thinking about building a garage addition, these are some factors to consider.

• Keep reading: 11 home addition ideas for budgets of all sizes

The cost of a garage addition

Your budget will most likely determine the type of garage you build. According to Carson, the cost can range from $6,000 to $60,000, and she says the national average is around $28,000. But those prices depend on a variety of factors.

Joe Landry, owner of Build Savvy in New Hampshire, says a lot of people assume a garage will cost around $30,000. But the “national average” cost of building a garage is like the national average for anything else – it could be much higher or much lower in your area – especially if you want all of the bells and whistles. “A basic garage can run from $65,000 and up, and if it has finished space above, it's in the mid-to-high $100,000’s.”

However, Elizabeth Dodson, co-founder of HomeZada, believes that the average person could probably get away with spending between $10,00 to $35,000. “But these costs could be higher now because of increased lumber prices,” she says. In addition, she notes it could take longer than usual to have the garage built due to a delay in materials, and the fact that many contractors are busy right now (in what we hope is the post-COVID-19 era).

Location and layout

An attached or a detached garage both offer pros and cons.  “An attached garage is a great option if you’re on a smaller lot or simply want direct access to your home,” Carson says. And, it’s less expensive to build. “However, it is less secure than a detached garage, given its connection to your home, and can block light into your home that was coming in through any doors or windows on that wall,” she explains.

If you opt for a detached garage, Carson says it will be more expensive, but there are advantages to this choice. “It’s more secure, easier to expand, and more flexible in terms of layout, size and style,” she explains. But Landry warns that the reason it will be more expensive is because you’ll need more lumber, more labor, and more driveway work – so keep those factors in mind.

And here’s something else to consider: if the garage is attached, Landry says you can keep dry as you’re walking between your car and the house. And if the garage is visible to neighbors or people passing by, you’ll have more privacy as you’re loading or unloading your vehicle.   

Another layout factor: “If you’re going to be walking back and forth a lot from the backyard to the garage, it makes sense to put a man door in the back,” Landry says. (A man door is a regular-sized door.) “People often want to add a man door towards the front end of the garage for foot traffic, but the idea is to not have to open the large overhead door every time,” he explains.

You’ll also need to choose from two layouts in relation to where the overhead doors are placed. “With a front load garage, the garage doors face the street, and you drive straight into the garage,” Landry explains.  

With an end load garage, he says the garage doors are on the side of the garage. “This type of garage requires a lot more driveway work, and will need at least 25 feet beyond the side of the garage to allow for turnaround area.”

• Planning to use your garage for storage? Check out our top garage storage ideas. 

Size of your garage addition

Size matters when you’re deciding on a garage addition. According to Dodson, the size and width of your lot are both important. “If you live on a narrow lot, you may only be able to build a specific size garage, for instance maybe a one-car garage versus a two- or four- car garage,” she says.  

The size of your vehicle(s) will also play a role in the size of your garage. Oversized vehicles will require more space. “For oversized vehicles, we would definitely want to make the overhead doors and the overall footprint larger,” Landry says. While he notes that 9' x 7' doors are pretty standard, for someone with a large vehicle like a Suburban, he says a 9' x 8' door would work better. 

“I like to figure 12' x 24' for each ‘bay’ of a new garage, so, for a 2-car garage, 24’ x 24’ is a pretty comfortable size, but it will get cramped for work benches, closets and stairways,” Landry explains. 

Ray Dal Soglio is the chief construction officer at A Always Garage Doors in Scottsdale, AZ, and he agrees that what you plan on storing in your garage will play a role in how large it should be. “A person who owns an RV is going to need to build a much higher and much wider garage than someone looking to build a garage addition for their golf cart.”  

• Keep reading: How to organize your garage this weekend in 5 easy steps

Columns, beams, and foundations

Another factor to consider is columns vs beams. Landry says that many people don’t like a lally column in the middle of the garage. “That’s because they've had to deal with them, and walk around them or bash their car door into them,” he explains. If you don’t want a column, he says you have other options. “To get rid of the column, either a beam needs to be installed, trussed roof, or ‘I joists’ if they're finishing the space above.”

The garage’s foundation is also important. “Foundations are normally 4' frost walls here in New England,” Landy says. But if you’re planning on a smaller garage (20’ x 20’ or under), he says a monolithic slab might work.  

Storage  

In addition to your vehicle(s), you’ll need to decide what else should be stored in your garage. “Depending on your garage storage needs, options range from cabinets, drawers, and workbenches to flat wall organizers and overhead storage,” Carson says. And she says you need to take storage space into account when determining both the size and layout.  

Depending on the layout, Landry says the garage could end up being a closet or mud room. “The new garage is normally going to serve as the main entrance to the home, so having a place to kick off your shoes and hang your coats can be life changing,” he notes.

Dave Krzyzak is the owner of Palm Valley Garage Door in Goodyear, AZ. If you need extra storage space in your garage, he recommends installing a Jackshaft garage door opener. “These openers are installed on the side of your garage and not in the middle of your garage door ceiling,” he explains. “A jackshaft garage door opener allows you to utilize your garage's roofline, so you can install a storage nook or you could hang roof racks, and store bikes and anything else."

Living space 

Another option is to use the garage for more than just storage. For example, Dodson says it could be used as additional room – for example, a home gym, office, or hobby room.  

Carson agrees. “While you’re building a garage is a good time to consider whether you want to add additional living space to your home, and an Additional Dwelling Unit (ADU) is a great option for a home office, guest suite or rental property, but it does come with additional costs.” 

According to Landry, you can create either finished or unfished space above the garage. “This means that there will need to be access to the space above, usually in the form of a stairway, which will need to be planned out, and it will usually require the garage to be oversized to accommodate it,” he says. “Having space above will almost always lead to talk of putting dormers on the front or maybe a full dormer along the back to take advantage of space.”

If it’s finished space and you want a bathroom and kitchenette, Carson says you’ll also need plumbing as well as the ability to heat and cool the area. “It’s a big investment, but it’s also a great way to expand add space and value to your home,” she says.

Electricity and HVAC 

Even if you don’t want finished space above the garage, Carson says you may want to factor in electricity and HVAC needs for your garage. “If you’ll be spending a lot of time in there, you will likely want to look into options for heating and cooling the space, especially if you live in a place with distinct seasons,” she advises. “Also, make sure to equip the space with the necessary lighting, power, and outlets you need for any refrigerators, electric vehicle charging stations, or workstations.”

Insulation

Don’t forget about insulating the garage, regardless of how it will be used. “If you plan on spending a lot of time in your garage, you are going to want a really high insulation level to ensure you are not wasting tons of energy while your AC is running,” Dal Soglio advises. If you’re just parking the family car, he says you probably don’t need to purchase high-quality insulation. “If you are someone who is building a garage to store luxury cars, you do want good insulation in your garage to ensure the heat or cold won’t damage the interior and exterior."

Running water 

Having running water in your garage can offer many benefits that you may not have even though of. “A garage is a great place for a dog wash, as long as you make it big enough,” Carson says. “This can also be really useful when your kids come home from a muddy soccer game, you get back from a camping trip, or even just when it comes time to clean your car or the garage itself.”  

Lighting/security

Lighting is another consideration, and according to Landry, some homeowners want a lot of natural light in their garage. “You can add windows and have glass on the overhead and man doors to accomplish this,” he explains. On the other hand, Landry says some people don’t want any windows at all for security reasons. 

Carson agrees and recommends thinking about how to keep the garage safe. “While windows and pet doors may seem like a great idea, they make it easier for burglars and rodents to find their way in,” she warns.  And if you decide to get an attached garage, she recommends making sure the garage door to your home is as secure as your front door. 

Permits and zoning

A garage is considered a new addition or new building. “This will likely require permits, so be sure to look into any restrictions or fees to make sure you’re in the clear,” Carson says. “As you’re going through the process, take a look at what your neighbors have, as that should help give you a good sense of what you’ll be able to do.”

You’re usually required to build the garage a certain distance from the street. Landry says most people don’t know the setback requirements for their city or town. “Normally, it's a simple phone call to the building department - and many towns now have websites that provide GIS (geographic information system) maps that show each parcel of land in town, information on the parcel, location of buildings, building setbacks, etc.,” he explains. “Having to get a variance if the setbacks aren't sufficient can add months to the project, and there aren't any promises that the Zoning Board of Appeals will grant the variance.” 

Wish your kitchen was a tad bigger so you could fit a breakfast table? Maybe you’d like a soaking tub in your master bath but none of the models you’ve found will fit. You can add just a few feet to your home without the headaches and expense of a full-blown room addition with a bump-out addition. Also called a micro-addition, if you think a bump-out would solve your design needs, this post will answer all your questions.

• Keep reading: 11 home addition ideas for budgets of all sizes 

What is a bump-out addition?

Typically, a bump-out addition is cantilevered off the existing foundation, similar to a balcony, making foundation work unnecessary. And, a micro-addition doesn’t need to be tied into the existing roofline. Both of these qualities save both time and money, while still adding extra space.

The most notable difference between a bump-out and a room addition is size. Bump-outs are small. Like just a few feet small, which obviously saves on the materials cost. Bump-out additions are limited in size due to the fact that they do not have a separate foundation.

Also, micro-additions rarely require additional heating or cooling. The vents from the room to which the bump-out attaches will adequately provide service to the additional square footage. Just don’t install plumbing lines in the unheated area.

• Keep reading: Home addition costs - price per square foot, where to save, and financing options

How big can you make a bump-out addition?

The weight of a cantilevered bump-out is held by the home’s existing floor joists. The larger the joists, the larger your bump-out can be. According to Manny Angelo Varas, president and CEO of the MV Group, luxury home builders in South Florida, a floor joist can extend four times the depth of the joist. For instance, if your joists are 2x10s, they are 9 ¼ inches deep. Multiply that measurement by 4 and your micro-addition can extend 37 inches.

Homeowners typically add bump-out additions to the first floor of the home. But you can also add one to the second floor. And, if your home is built on a concrete slab, you can still add a bump-out. According to Varas, a slab can support a 3-5 foot cantilever.

Reasons to add a bump-out addition on your home

Other than cost savings, there are several reasons homeowners choose a bump-out over a full-blown room addition. The most obvious reason is they only need a few more feet inside the home. But there are other reasons outside the home as well.

According to Varas, you will need a building permit for a micro-addition. So, before considering any home remodeling, check with your building officials for permitting requirements and zoning setbacks. If your home already sits close to your property line, your setbacks could be too tight for a full home addition. That’s a great opportunity for a bump-out.

You might also consider a bump-out to protect mature trees and their roots. By cantilevering the addition off the existing foundation, you can add space to your home without disrupting the soil. And, tree roots aren’t the only thing underground. The foundation work that a full-size home addition requires could necessitate moving below-grade plumbing or utility lines. The labor of moving those lines adds to the overall cost of the remodel.

Finally, if your yard is too small to accommodate the access and maneuvering of the heavy equipment needed for foundation work, adding a bump-out still provides more square footage.

• Keep reading: How to plan a home addition

How much does a bump-out addition typically cost?

According to the online home services marketplace, Homeguide, the average room or home addition costs between $86 and $208 per square foot. At this rate, a typical home addition could cost $20,000 or more. But, because a bump-out lacks some of the factors that drive up the cost, a 2-foot kitchen micro-addition could cost as little as $5000.

Two feet may not sound like a lot. But if you consider running it the length of a 15-foot room, that gives you an additional 30 square feet. That’s plenty of room to add a breakfast table, pantry, or center island.

Why are bump out additions cheaper than a full addition?

Since construction costs are often calculated by the square footage, just the smaller size of a bump-out makes them cheaper than a room addition. However, there are other factors that come into play. Lack of foundation is the primary one. Other factors depend on the size and function of the addition, which could mean you won’t need the following:

• Wiring
• Plumbing
• HVAC ductwork
• Extending the existing roof
• As many windows as a full room addition

Bump-out addition pros and cons

Before getting into the pros and cons of a bump-out addition, Varas advises homeowners to ask themselves, “Do you want to live in the home and just enjoy it or do you want to create future value?”

Enjoying your home remodel every day takes the sting out of the high cost of a full-sized addition. But, if you only feel the pinch of a small dining room when everyone is home for Thanksgiving, a bump-out, and its smaller price tag may be your best option. Especially if you know you’re in your forever home.

But, if you see yourself selling in the future, Varas says that bump-outs don’t add much value to the home or bring a considerable return on investment. “A full-sized addition creates future value for resale that a bump-out doesn’t,” he says.

Otherwise, the pros and cons of a bump-out addition are:

Pros:

• Lower cost
• Just enough space for what you need
• Lose less yard space
• Protect mature trees
• Blends seamlessly with the existing structure

Cons:

• Adds space to only one room
• You may have trouble matching your siding
• Kitchen and bath bump-outs may require plumbing lines, depending on your layout
• Not for the average DIY-er

Ideas for bump-out additions

Varas says that the most popular use for a micro-addition is to expand the same space. Here are a few ways homeowners use their bump-out additions to bring functionality and joy to the home.

• As a bay window with a window seat in the living room or den.
• To expand the master bath, making room for both a soaking tub and a shower.
• In the kitchen, to add dining space, room for an island or pantry, or larger appliances.
• To add a walk-in closet to a bedroom.
• To add a laundry room or mudroom.
• As a home office nook off the family room.

Finally, always consult with a qualified professional before embarking on any home addition, especially a bump-out. If not properly supported, a cantilevered micro-addition can sag, leading to structural damage to the home. It can also leak causing mold and water damage. And to avoid further complications, always follow the local zoning ordinances, building codes, and HOA regulations.

 Most dream family homes don’t come with wheels attached. However, increasingly in a bid to tackle crippling rent and mortgages families are turning vans and even buses into their new tiny family homes.

Brian and Starla Sullivan, from Washington, are two of those people. In 2014 the couple decided to trade in their apartment to live in a converted school bus with their three young children.

‘We’re ridiculous people, and this is a ridiculous lifestyle, and it works,’ says Starla. The pair decided to take the plunge after struggling to tackle lengthy work commutes and sky-high rents.

‘We were living in an apartment about an hour away from Brian’s work and the commute was awful,’ explains Starla. ‘He would work overtime just trying to pay the rent then he would sit in the car for about three hours a day in rush hour and we would never see him. So we decided to make a change.’

‘We were watching youtube videos about tiny houses and there was this one, in particular, we called them the crazy people who lived in a blue bus. And we just kind of looked at each other and went ‘do you want to live in a blue bus with me?’

At first, Brian thought Starla was joking, however, he soon realized the perks of switching to a motorized family home.’ I started to realize all these little things that were benefits that you know I hadn’t thought of before like being able to be mobile, being able to pick up and move if I got a different job and it was 20 miles away or something.’

Not to mention the huge savings the couple would be making on rent. The initial cost of buying and fitting out the old school bus cost $30,000, a fraction of the price of a standard home. Since shelling out the initial cost, the family has continued to save money.

‘We pay $500 a month for rent, versus $1,500 a month that we would be having to pay for an apartment. So we pay about a third of the cost of living elsewhere,’ explains Starla. ‘And as for utilities also about a third of the cost. So we have money to pay off debts and student loans, and eat the food that we want, go to the places we want.’

• Tiny home-owner shares a clever kitchen storage hack that saves cupboard space

The bus has been fitted out to look just like a tiny house. ‘Our sofas pull out into a full-size bed, we have a fully functional kitchen, we have an oven and microwave combination,’ says Starla.

The couple even has a bath to fit all three kids in at one time. ‘One thing that I really wanted to have, having children, was a bathtub so we have a bathtub that’s large enough to fit all the kids in. At least while they are this small.'

Instead of traditional plumbing, the couple opted for a composting toilet to help cut water consumption. This is fortunate as water has been at the center of some of the couple's bus life difficulties.

• Read: This New Yorker has over 1100 plants in her loft apartment

Like with most homes, living on a bus is not always smooth sailing. The family has tackled frozen pipes, no running water, running out of propane to heat the bus at night, and even losing electricity. However, the family is still devoted to their blue bus home.

'I know a lot of people say that it’s not possible to raise kids on this bus especially until they turn 18. But I disagree,’ says Starla. ‘We added our full-length mattresses in the kid's room, plus extra space in the bunks. They are gonna grow into it, and have their own private space.’

‘If we do move out of the bus, it’s going to be something equally ridiculous.’

Falling out of love with a property is understandable following a lengthy planning battle, issues with builders and escalating costs, but Jen Fletcher’s house renovation experience hasn’t put her off. In fact, it’s led her to set up a business, Squiffy Mill Interiors, to make project managing, design and styling easier for others.

Having each renovated several homes before getting together, Jen and husband Pete had ploughed their energies into a three-bedroom Grade II-listed cottage in Kenilworth, Warwickshire. However, after having son Alfie and with daughter Rose on the way, they needed more space and a bigger garden. 

Soon they found a three-bedroom detached house in the nearby village of Stoneleigh, then set about transforming their new property into a family home fit for their children to grow up in. It’s not been without its challenges – in fact, the couple considered selling part way through the works – but they’ve come through the other end with a stunning home and plenty of experience under their belts. Jen revealed how they did it.

If you're planning on extending your house, like Jen and Pete have, we have lots of advice and ideas on how to do it. 

'Ideally we wanted a project with kerb appeal and period features, but it was difficult to find anything where the sums added up. This property was originally built in the 18th century as a mill house, before being rebuilt in the late 19th century and later becoming the village shop. It was slightly out of budget but we viewed it anyway, fell in love and had to stretch ourselves.'

‘There was inherent character, but it lacked personality – everything was painted cream, from the walls and woodwork to the kitchen, bathroom and radiators. We knew the galley kitchen was far too small and didn’t link with the third-of-an-acre plot. However, Pete loved the setting overlooking a mill pond and it had lots of potential. We hired architecture firm Brock Charles for the works – they’d done lots of work with old and listed homes, so were able to navigate the local planning process.'

‘Being in a Conservation Area, the house could only be increased by 30 per cent of its original size, but that wasn’t necessarily a bad thing as constraining our plans kept costs down. We opted for a two-storey extension incorporating a square kitchen-diner with a fourth bedroom and en suite shower room above. Unfortunately, our plans were initially rejected – the planners claimed the extension would spoil the view of greenbelt land behind us, which didn’t really make sense as no-one could see it. We won on appeal but the process took almost 18 months. 

‘We fell out of love with the house during the process and even considered selling it as soon as we finished. However, once the extension was completed and we started decorating, I began to feel better.'

'Ensuring the house and extension flowed together sympathetically was key. The extension was built from reclaimed bricks with a slate roof, and we painted the new windows to match the replacement ones in the old house. We opted for brick slips by the dining table and in the false chimney breast, as well as matching in cornicing and adding panelling in the bedrooms. Our builder didn’t think they were a good idea, but if your heart’s set on something, you have to fight your corner.'

‘In the kitchen we saved money by hiring a semi-retired cabinet maker who rarely takes on projects, but the trade-off was being flexible on time. He made it over six months while the extension was being built. The modern Shaker style with a country feel suits the age of the house, and robust handles and good quality plinths make a big impact.'

'I redecorated the sitting room a number of times but it never felt right and I couldn’t work out why. After creating a moodboard, I found a muted green that felt a lot calmer than the darker green we’d tried before. I think I’d been influenced by styles on social media, which don’t always work with my own palette. The loveseat is one of my favourite things. It’s such a lovely size for cuddling up with the kids and reading a book. It’s a happy coincidence that all my artwork coordinates with the room, but you could pull things together with identical frames or spray frames from charity shops the same colour.'

'I’m not one for feature walls, as I like to be able to look in every direction and feel like I’m in the same room, so in our bedroom we fitted panelling to a height of around two-thirds across all the walls. It fits in and yet gives a different feel to the dado rails elsewhere that are two-thirds up the walls, and also allows me to add a colour that’s balanced by the white above.'

'Alfie and Rose helped choose their bedroom colour schemes after looking at Pinterest boards with me, although I got the final say to ensure it worked with the rest of the house. Rose is very creative and into crafts, dancing and singing, while Alfie wants to be a naturalist so he’s all about animals. Because they have so many fads and phases, whatever they’re into is limited to things like artwork or duvet covers, so they can easily be changed.'

'The guest bedroom is south facing but overshadowed by a huge tree, so it took a lot of tester pots to find the right shade of white that wouldn’t look too harsh. I wanted to create a calm and tranquil room for guests. The combination of dusky pink with rust is one of my favourite colour schemes in the whole house. I’m always trying to get that balance of clean, fresh and modern but with a country feel, too, which is why I added the stripes. To save money, I revamped the fitted wardrobes, which had window panes and net curtains. I primed the glass, painted them grey to match the walls and then added hexagon handles.'

• Keep reading: The best white paints of 2021

'Although we hadn’t budgeted for revamping the bathroom, we upgraded it with new sanitaryware and a walk-in shower instead of an enclosure, which made it feel less corridor- like. It looked out of place in comparison to the rest of the house, and the tongue and groove panelling was rotten in places, so we tackled it while we had the main trades in. 

‘Everything was cream in here, including the carpet; new floor tiles were a must, along with a new basin with storage underneath for the kids’ toys. We kept the bath, painting it grey to match the vanity unit.'

Last summer, the demand for home additions surged by more than 50 percent, according to data collected by Houzz. It's no surprise after millions of Americans pivoted to spending more time inside the house. 

Despite the promise of reemergence, interest in home additions is still going strong. This comes as families continue to allocate space for home offices, adult children who have returned home, and dining rooms ready to host long-awaited dinner parties. Whether you want to add on a second floor or transform a garage into a playroom, these genius home addition ideas cover every need and budget. 

• Not sure where to start? Check out: How to plan a home addition

1. Get your dream kitchen with a kitchen addition

The kitchen may have once been a place reserved for preparing meals, but today it serves as the family HQ. Think Zoom conferences, dinners, and neighborhood happy hours. Adding/expanding a kitchen is one of the pricier home additions (between $25,00 and $45,000, according to Home Guide), but kitchen remodels typically have good ROI when it comes to resale value of your home. 

The lower end of the spectrum refers to entry-level appliances and a standard 10-by-10 kitchen. Prices increase — and can go as high as $100,000 or more) depending on the luxury of appliances and square footage. 

To save money, expand outward from an existing footprint. Keeping water and electric hookups where they are can save big. For this Massachusetts home addition, Rebel Builders transformed a small kitchen into the heart of the home by digging out and extending the basement. 

• Empty list

2. Convert a porch into a sunroom

Have a screened-in porch you'd like to transform into a sunroom? This home addition type is popular thanks to its ease and affordability. It can cost as little as $8,000 (and up to $80,000 according to Home Guide), depending on the climate. Three-season sunrooms in mild climates will be much more affordable than a four-season room in a colder region. 

If your existing structure has a solid foundation and roof, you can expect to pay much less, since you won't need a slab foundation and roofing materials. Handy homeowners can do some of the work themselves, like flooring and paint. 

3. Add living space outside with an outdoor kitchen

If you have the yardage, don't count out an outdoor room! An outdoor kitchen is a great way to extend the footprint of your home and encourage alfresco entertaining. According to Landscaping Network, the cost of your project will range from about $2,000 for a cooking area with a patio, grill, and countertop to $50,000 and as much as $100,000 for a luxury design with top-of-the-line appliances.

You'll also want to think about coverage from the elements, so add on the cost of a pergola or overhang. 

4. Create a screened-in porch home addition

Though it isn't cheap to add a screened-in porch (it will cost between $18,000 and $24,000), its enhanced curb appeal can bolster the value of your home. According to Home Guide, that can add up to as much as 60% ROI. 

This home addition by Stratton Exteriors makes a screened-in porch feel luxurious, thanks to a gable roof, skylights, and a grilling station with metal roof. 

5. Tack on a bathroom addition

Bathroom additions also offer a handsome return on investment, recouping 50 percent of your costs on average according to the National Association of Realtors. Of course, it is also one of the more expensive additions, since you'll need to think about plumbing. To save money, opt for stock vanities and cabinets as opposed to custom, and talk to your builder about the ideal location for water lines. 

6. Go up with a second-story home addition

Adding on a second story can essentially double the footprint of your home. All that space does come for a pretty penny — as much as $350,000 — depending on the size and material selection. That's because, as Home Guide explains, you need to build an entire new house on top of your house. 

Think plumbing, electrical wiring, framing, and drywall. But, since you're drastically growing the size of your home, you can expect a good return on investment nearing 60 percent.

• Keep reading: Home addition costs - Price per square foot, where to save, and financing options

7. Get organized with a pantry addition

Home organization has never been more popular. Just take popular Netflix shows Tidying Up With Marie Kondo and Get Organized With The Home Edit. But if your spices and baking ingredients are trapped in cluttered cabinets, it can be difficult to streamline things.

Enter: a pantry addition. Talk to a builder about the best way to utilize your space. You can transform a coat closet into your dream pantry with a few ideal built-ins. Or, carve out space to build a butler's pantry off of your kitchen. This relatively affordable remodel will pay dividends in getting organized.  

8. Maximize unused space with a garage conversion

Garage conversions are a great way to turn cluttered storage areas into usable space outside of your home. If your garage already has a strong foundation and electricity, you only need to think about adding insulation, heat, and flooring.

Close off half of a two-car garage to build a home office. Add a rug, sofa, and bar for the ultimate hangout space. Or, install a climbing wall  and jungle gym for the ultimate "smart" playroom. 

You can also build a new garage or add a second floor to your existing footprint. Note that if your garage doesn't have a strong enough foundation to add a second floor, it will be more costly. 

9. Gain major function with a small mudroom addition

Mudrooms became the real workhorse of the home this past year. They are responsible for containing clutter as well as preventing dirt and germs from entering the rest of the house. Thankfully, adding a mudroom is one of the more affordable home additions. According to Home Guide, it will run you about $7,500 for a 50-square-foot mudroom. 

10. Build a gathering space with a family room addition

Family rooms are one of the pricier kinds of home additions, since you'll need to build out from your existing footprint. That means a new foundation, roofing, and outside walls with insulation and siding. (Plus electrical and plumbing work.) 

The result can cost anywhere from $34,000 to $83,000, depending on size and materials. This farmhouse-inspired addition boasts soaring ceilings with exposed beams. 

11. Create space for guests with an in-law suite

You'll need to front the most cash for the addition of an in-law suite, complete with a bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette, living room, and laundry. Most spend an average of $90,000 on this home addition, but for good reason.

In-law suites are great for housing out-of-town guests, college students home for the summer, and extended family members (as its name suggests). The space can also be rented out on sites like Airbnb when not in use. Aside from the convenience to you, in-law suites are a great investment. They add so much value to your home that you'll recoup your costs 100%. 

Planning to build an addition to your home? Count the costs now to assure you have the money to invest in the project. According to Fixr, an online marketplace for home remodeling, the average cost of a 240-square foot, first-floor home addition is $55,000. The average ranges from a $7,000 laundry room bump out to the elaborate $200,000 1,000-square foot second-story addition with a new roof. 

Knowing how to plan a home addition budget helps you to see where the money is going, what expenses you might need to finance, and possible areas where you can save. Home addition cost variations come from several factors:

• Type and size of addition
• Your location
• Permitting requirements
• The cost of labor and materials
• Any hidden problems

Keeping these variables in mind, we have some averages that will help you in your planning.

Home addition costs by type

While most home additions cost about $200 per square foot, according to Fixr, variables can increase that amount. Plumbing for kitchens and baths is one example of something that drives up cost. Direction—either up or out—is another. “A ground floor addition costs a little more than a second story because of the excavation work,” says Steve Besch, architect and founder of Besch Design, Ltd. in Chicago. “And an attic renovation is less than both,” he adds. So, let’s take a look at a few types of home additions and what the average cost of each is currently nationwide.

Family room—Unless you add premium fixtures and materials or extensive cabinetry, you can count on your family room running the average cost per square foot, making a 15- by 20-foot room about $60,000.

Master suite—According to Remodeling’s 2020 Cost vs. Value report, the cost of a mid-range master suite is $136,739. Of course, the size of the suite and the fixtures and materials used contribute to the overall price tag.

Bathroom—The average mid-range bathroom addition, according to Remodeling magazine, is $49,598.

Kitchen—According to Fixr, the average kitchen addition costs from $50,000 to $70,000, depending on your location, kitchen design, and the quality of materials. Custom wood cabinets, for example, cost more than stock cabinets from the home improvement store.

A breakdown of common home addition costs

To get a better idea of where your money will be going, here's a breakdown of the most common home addition costs. 

Cost of permitting

Building, electrical, and plumbing permits add to the cost of a home addition. The associated fees vary by location and scope of work. But typically, a building permit is priced according to the dollar value ascribed to the job.

For example, in Richmond, Virginia, before the building begins someone must secure a permit. Normally, it’s the general contractor. A building permit covers the construction but the job also requires separate trade permits for things like electrical, plumbing, or gas work. The appropriate subcontractor will file for those.

The fee structure for all residential permits is $63 for the first $2000 in value plus $6.07 per thousand or fraction thereof over that. So, if someone is planning a $30,000 addition, the fee for each permit would be $232.96, plus a 2-percent state surcharge.

In addition, Richmond charges fees for plan reviews and permit applications that are withdrawn or rejected. That means if the plans don’t meet with their approval or the homeowner changes their mind, they’ll still have to pay a fee.

According to the home services company HomeAdvisor, the average cost of a building permit is about $1,222, ranging from $390 to $2,072 for most projects.

• Thinking about finishing your basement instead? Check out our basement remodeling costs guide

Architect and design costs

Including an architect or design professional in your project saves you money in the long run. Whether hired separately or as part of the same organization, the design professional works with a homeowner to help them best solve their problem.

According to the online professional services matching website Thumbtack, architects charge between $50 to $150 per hour nationwide with an average cost of about $3,000 per project. Of course, this cost would vary depending on the scope of the work. According to Fixr, the average design fee is 10- to 17-percent of the value of the project. That would make the fee to design a $30,000 home addition around $3,000.

As an architect, Besch tries to capture the homeowner’s vision by asking questions to determine what is and what isn’t working well in the home. He spends time evaluating the entire home, not just the one room, to look for the best design options.

Once the architect or designer has a firm commitment to the budget and design of the project, they’ll draw a set of blueprints for the contractor to follow. According to Fixr, the average cost of a set of blueprints for a home addition is $1,200.

Contractor costs

Generally, residential contractors charge by the project, not the hour. According to HomeAdvisor, they add a percentage to the cost of materials, supplies, labor, etc. Depending on the area of the country you live in, this could be anywhere from 10- to 20-percent of your total home addition cost.

Material costs

The cost of building materials fluctuates with the economy. And currently, because of the covid-19 pandemic, lumber prices have increased over 180-percent in the last year, according to the National Association of Home Builders.

Materials also come in a wide range of quality and cost that contribute to the overall budget. For instance, natural stone costs more than man-made materials. Custom made costs more than stock items. Copper and brass plumbing fixtures cost more than chrome-plated plastic. When planning your budget, it helps to shop around a bit to get a feel for the cost of the materials you want. Then, you have the necessary knowledge to discuss with your contractor where you’d be happy cutting corners in order to save.

Potential hidden costs

Contrary to what you may have heard, contractors want to bring your home remodeling projects in on budget, or less. Doing so produces happy customers and happy customers refer them to their friends. But sometimes, problems arise that both you and the contractor may not have prepared for. For this reason, many contractors suggest padding the budget by 10- to 25-percent.

Let’s say you live in an older home. Your contractor may encounter old renovation mistakes made by a previous owner. If they unearth a code violation performed as part of a former DIY project, they’ll have to first bring the violation up to standards before proceeding. The extra work adds cost to your project.

Also, particularly in kitchen and bath remodels, the contractor may uncover damage from unknown water leaks. They must remove rotten wood, mold, and mildew before new construction can proceed. This, too, would add to your cost.

Ways to save

If you’re handy with a hand tool, ask the contractor if there are jobs you can do to save on the labor cost. “Ask if the general contractor will allow you to do the painting,” suggests Besch.

Choose less costly materials. Making a list of non-negotiables as you create a budget helps you with your choices. For instance, hard flooring is a must-have, hardwood isn’t.

Scale down the space. “Less square footage,” says Besch, “means a lower overall cost. Just trimming a foot from around the perimeter of a room could save a few thousand dollars.”

• Keep reading: How to finish a basement on a budget

Financing options

Once you’ve counted all the costs and finalized a budget for your home addition, you need to decide how you’re going to pay for the project. Here are a few options to look into.

Cash—If you don’t have $40,000 lying around, consider dipping into an investment account or liquidating other assets.

Home equity loan—This loan takes your home as collateral against the loan’s repayment.

Mortgage refinance—Refinancing your existing mortgage, and borrowing more than you need, could provide the funds for your addition.

Home equity line of credit (HELOC)—Similar to a home equity loan, you’ll borrow against your home for this loan. But, it creates a line of credit from which you can borrow when you need it, not just for one project.

Contractor loan—If you lack equity in your home, ask your contractor if they partner with local lenders to provide loans for their work.

This master closet has to be one of our favorite transformations from Studio McGee's Dream Home Makeover. Sometimes, everything just comes together in a perfect way – the design, the choice of color and materials, and the functionality of the resulting space. But even more that the gorgeous design, this master closet, part of the Riverbottoms Remodel featured in Season 2, has one of the smartest additions we've ever seen: a laundry room. Talk about efficiency. 

As Shea explains in the webisode and on her blog,  her client wanted a master closet and laundry room in one – 'I didn't even know that was an option', she says, 'but now I want a washer dryer in our closet!' It really is a great idea, because it's a laundry room, vanity/walk-in closet, and clothes storage idea in one space, without having to move rooms. 

'Small spaces are the perfect place to make a statement', Shea adds. Originally, this room was just a standard walk-in closet, so the team 'took down two walls to create a large and spacious room.' Shea explains that 'in a small space, you'll never be take aback by how grand it is, so you have to do other things'. This closet had a total redesign with a bold sage green color, a statement plaid carpet, and bold lighting.

The resulting space is glamorous and really stands out, not least thanks to the amazing centerpiece island that can be used for folding clothes, setting out jewelry, or getting ready – it also has a matching vanity in the same room. The thick marble-effect top creates a modern look that allows to blend the client's 'modern and casual style' with the home's traditional architecture. It almost has the luxury Shaker kitchen look, which is what makes this room one of the most unforgettable walk-in closet ideas ever.

'When we're talking about a dream closet, this is definitely one of them', says Shea. It's multi-functional, spacious, 'and on top of it all, it looks really beautiful.' 

From coal holes to crawl spaces, a lot of houses and terraces from the turn of the 20th Century and earlier have some form of basement space. Utilising this void can be an incredible way to magic up space from seemingly nothing. Of course, taking on such a renovation is not for the faint of heart. 

No matter the size of your basement ambition or the scale of your basement ideas, from simply waterproofing your cellar to a full-blown house wide deep excavation or extension, there are three core elements that should drive any basement conversion plan: Light, water and access.

• Keep reading: Small basement ideas that prove subterranean can be cosy

Why are these elements so important? 

Light, or the lack of it can be a real concern in a subterranean space. If you work with this limitation rather than against it, creative solutions to bring natural light in and a beautifully considered lighting scheme will really enhance the space, a million miles away from the dead light feeling that a grid of spotlights would give.

Access is not only how you get into the new basement, critically it is how you would escape to the outside in the case of an emergency.

Water, or keeping water out of your new basement is crucial. Waterproofing or tanking as it is called comes in many forms and the system is dependent on the ground conditions that you are excavating.

How you bring these considerations together should be part of the initial design process alongside the structural scheme. A carefully considered design will not only greatly enhance your new basement but can also be a cost saving exercise too.

• Keep reading: Basement storage ideas to make the most of unused space

Light and access in a basement conversion

Light and access can go hand in hand. If you think of the proposed space in terms of level change, rather than one deep box shape, by incorporating a split or mezzanine level this area can still benefit from natural light than perhaps the deeper excavated areas of the basement. By splitting the space like this, it will not only reduce the amount of excavation needed and therefore the cost, but also the usability of the new area created.

If you can incorporate a skylight, then always look to install a glazed opening that doubles as a fire escape. In that way it will maximise how you can use the space. As you must ensure you have a direct route to the outside, by doubling up a skylight as your escape access, means that main stair serving the basement does not necessarily need to be an enclosed structure. You can then look at the style of the main stair as part of the design of the basement as a way to bring down light, create a double height space and by using the stairway as a design feature it can elevate the space, the stair and its balustrades for example being integral to the overall style of the space.

Addressing water in a basement conversion

Water, on the other hand, is a constant problem. The finished basement structure is subject to varying levels of pressure from the ground water present in the surrounding excavated area. This is known as hydrostatic pressure. The design of the tanking system for a proposed basement is dependent on the size and impact that this hydrostatic force exerts. The more water trying to get in through your basement walls and floor, the more complex the tanking system needed. 

In most retrofit basement builds, surface applied waterproofing will eventually get pushed off the walls by the hydrostatic pressure and will fail. In these situations, the tanking system essentially allows the ground water to permeate through but is not allowed to contact the inner skin of the finished build. A waffle-like waterproof membrane allows the residual water to seep down into a perimeter drain and then is mechanically pumped out. Obviously, this is a costly installation but utilising this system, it can be a great opportunity to add a kitchenette or even a small basement shower room. If your budget does not stretch, just by adding blanked off pipe and drainage will allow you to easily connect for any future upgrades.

Water as humidity is also an issue in basements. Air flow tends to be extremely limited in subterranean spaces, but designing in skylight vents, double height spaces and clerestory windows if possible are great ways to encourage natural, stack ventilation. Where this isn’t an option, then mechanical ventilation is a must. Rather than going for a cheap axial fan and hoping for the best, ensure you specify a near silent centrifugal extract system. These low decibel centrifugal type fans are often twice the price, but the way they circulate and remove the stale air is far superior to the axial kind you hear buzzing away in an old bathroom.

Physically removing the moisture in the air by incorporating a dehumidifier will hugely benefit the air quality too. Dehumidifiers can be standalone units or some of the top of the range fans incorporate warm dried air as well as circulation. Incorporating an infrared heating system will not only fit seamlessly into your design as ceiling, wall or even mirror panels, but this form of heating also does not increase the humidity like a normal radiator can. In addition, using natural materials such as lime-based finishing plaster in opposed to gypsum plaster can actually help absorb moisture and lead to a naturally more healthy and high air quality in the new space.

Looking where to concentrate your budget and where you can make savings will ensure that the design and style of your proposed basement build will be incorporated seamlessly into your home for years to come.

As for all builds, you must ensure that your proposals comply with up-to-date building regulations and the design and subsequent building works are signed off by your chosen building control office.

About the author

Laura Jane Clark is the principle of Lamp Architects. She studied in Glasgow at the Mackintosh School of Architecture and also the Liverpool School of Architecture, qualifying in 2007.  Working on site and getting hands on with building has always been extremely important After leaving University, she worked with a construction company for several months prior to starting as an architectural assistant with Guy Greenfield Architects in London.  “Working on the tools and getting a basic idea of what site work entailed, gave me a really good foundation for developing detailing, site visits and working closely with the construction team.  I think working on site is really important for anyone wanting to become an Architect, especially female Architecture trainees.”

Laura set up her own practice, Lamp Architects, ten years ago and her passion lies in innovative house designs, small scale redevelopment and micro-regeneration of long abandoned and brown field sites.  After featuring in the first episode of George Clarkes Amazing Spaces on Channel 4 with the derelict underground public toilet conversion into a flat, she has appeared as an architect on two series of Ugly House to Lovely House, a judge on Shed of the Year for 4 series and is currently one of the architects on BBC2 Your Home Made Perfect with Angela Scanlon.

Laura is also currently renovating an old derelict Georgian House outside Glasgow and builds and designs her own furniture and interiors in association with Universal Cloud Cover.

Thinking of adding a glass box extension to your home? Well, you are in the right place because we have tons of ideas and projects to get you inspired. A glass box extension can suit any home, traditional or uber-modern and will bring in floods of natural light and really open up your home's layout. 

And if you thought your home was too small for an extension, glass box extensions can prove that wrong. It doesn't take a huge glass structure you make a big difference and even a small side-return extension can have the desired effect of creating that lovely light, airy, open plan living space. 

Far from the standard traditional conservatory, glass box extensions can be designed around the space you are working with. Plus, being made almost entirely of glass, they are going to bring in so much more light and make more of a style statement too. 

• Looking for more glass extension ideas? Head over to our gallery. 

'The benefits of a glass box extension are manifold. Most obviously, it can add up to 7% to the value of a home, a not insignificant figure, and one that more than covers the cost of most of this work.' says Simon McAuliffe of Cantifix. 'If selling your home is not in your plans, an extension can completely change the way you use your home. Many old houses (particularly the ubiquitous Victorian terraces of many London suburbs) are dingy, dark and cold at the back, and a glass extension can give a new lease of life to your home. It can provide a link between your home and garden, blurring the boundaries between outside and in and changing the way you use your garden too.'

Keep on scrolling and be inspired to start your own glass box extension project...

1. Fill a side return with a glass box extension

For this Edwardian terrace, the homeowner wanted to open up a narrow, dark galley kitchen, creating a light-filled open-plan space that flowed into the garden. As for many terraced homes, extending into a side return was an obvious choice for architects at  Plan Studio. 

But by choosing a glass box extension over say, a brick-built addition, all that natural light was guaranteed, plus the slender frame and uninterrupted expanses of glass makes this actually relatively small extension feel much bigger. And that reflection of the garden even makes the outside seating space feel larger too. 

• Take a tour of the rest of this gorgeous kitchen extension to see the equally gorgeous interiors.

2. Contrast a period property with a glass box extension

Opening up a period property with a glass box extension is a great way to bring a ton of light into a home that might have been blessed with lovely, but small, traditional windows.

'Many people think that contemporary glass extensions may not work with more traditional buildings, or may be frowned upon in areas such as conservations areas, but this is certainly not true.' explains Shannon of IQ Glass. 'Large glazing elevations only seek to enhance and complement the host building, and are actually preferred in conservation areas as the minimal design doesn’t alter the overall character of the building. In our wide range of completed projects we have designed glass extensions for almost every building type and style, including listed buildings.'

This modern glass box extension by IQ Glass and Eastabrook Architects was built onto a listed cottage and has totally opened up the kitchen and dining area, filling it with light and also creating this seamless flow between living space and the gorgeous surrounding countryside. 

• For more extension ideas for period homes check out our feature. 

3. Decide on the position and angle of a glass box extension

If you are adding a glass box extension, chances are you want it to be positioned so that it makes the most of the daylight, and brings as much natural light into your home as possible. 

'When it comes to the positioning of a glass box extension you should decide what you want the function of the space to be and your budget.' explains Shannon. 'South facing glass extensions are great for maximizing natural light and ensuring that as much sunlight as possible flows into the space throughout the day. However, to prevent the internal space from overheating, we recommend that south-facing glazing elevations use a solar control coating.' 

'It is also beneficial to have some type of solar shading solution such as electrochromic glass or blinds, and these extra considerations can incur additional costs. East or west-facing glass extensions still benefit from sunlight but are less likely to overheat as they are not in direct sunlight for the whole day.'

4. Increase light with a frameless glass box extension

If bringing in light is the top priority of your glass box extension, really maximize it by going frameless. For this extension on a listed building by The Frameless Glass Company, there is no steel structure just the use of glass beams, giving the impression the extension is totally frameless, bringing in so much light and giving uninterrupted views of the surrounding countryside. UltraFine 17mm sliding doors have also been installed within the glass extension to create that flow between outdoors and in.

5. Create a seamless indoor outdoor living space

One of the main benefits of a glass box extension is how they merge indoor living spaces with the outdoors. The expanses of glass remove boundaries, but you could take this even further by adding in bi-fold or sliding doors to a glass box extension. For this extension, the minimal windows and sliding doors open up the entire extension, turning this garden room almost into an outdoor living room in the summer months.

Plus, note how the floor inside the extension is almost exactly the same as the flooring of the patio, only enhancing that seamless flow between the spaces. 

• Find more outdoor living room ideas in our gallery. 

6. Enhance a room with a small glass box extension

Glass box extensions needn't be huge structures to make a difference to your current space. 'Technically speaking, there is no minimum size for a glass box extension, however, we would recommend at least a few meters squared to make it cost-effective.' advises Shannon.

This extension is just over two meters and was build onto a narrow section of the garden that wasn't seeing much use. It brings light into the whole of the downstairs of the property, plus provides seamless access to the garden thanks to the really subtle sliding doors. With a smaller glass extension like this one, you want maximum glass, minimum framing to allow as much light to come in as possible. 

7. Use a glass link to bridge old and new

A glass link is the perfect way to connect an original property with a modern extension, merging together two sides of a home, while also creating this really striking contrast. 

Keep a glass link really minimal, like this frameless design, and you can even create an allusion that there is a gap between the main property and the new build. According to IQ Glass, this is usually the preferred method of extending period property when applying for planning permission, so a great option for those extended listed buildings. 

8. Use a glass box to add a window seat

We love this little glazed nook that has been created by adding a glass window box to the back of this Edwardian townhouse. The idea of this extension was to bring in as much light as possible and link the indoors with the garden, so this homeowner opted for a custom-made glazed window box instead of standard windows, which floods the kitchen with light but without sacrificing any more of the garden. If you are after a smaller, more budget-friendly option, this is a lovely idea. 

9. Add a floating glass box extension 

And taking it one step further than a glass window box is this striking split level, double-height, extension by Trace Architects. It has totally transformed the rear of this townhouse, bringing in light to both the first floor and basement living space. 

The frameless glass box that protrudes into the garden, blurs the boundaries between the outdoors and in, not just on the ground floor but on the first floor too. And the fact that it's visually linked by the same use of brick as the main house means that you do get that contrast between old and new but it's not too jarring. 

10. Save by switching a glazed roof for roof lights

If you love the idea of creating a glass box extension, but working to a tighter budget, why not opt for glass walls but a solid roof with roof lights instead. You'll save because you won't need those large expanses of glass to cover the roof but you'll still benefit from all that natural light flowing into your extension. 

• For more light-filled extension ideas check out our guide. 

How much does a glass box extension cost?

The average cost of a glass box extension starts at £3,000 per m2 and the cost for an entire project ranges from around £14,000 and can go up to £80,000 depending on the size and design.

'Glass box extensions vary hugely in cost as glass specification, size, systems used and location all have an impact on the overall cost.' says Shannon of IQ Glass. 'As the prices vary so significantly it’s difficult to give a range but there will be ways to make the extension more cost-effective, like using aluminum doors rather than steel. If the glass extension is south facing we recommend solar control glazing to prevent the space from becoming overheated, which would incur additional costs.'

• For more information on glass extension cost check out our guide. 

Do you need planning permission for a glass box extension?

'Planning permissions can vary depending on location, for most homes small extensions are covered by the government's Permitted Development Rights.' explains Shannon. 'For larger extensions planning permission may be needed. In conservation areas, national parks and Areas of Outstanding National Beauty, if the extension is a single story extension of up to 3m (or 4m for a detached property), then planning permission is not required. Anything over this, such as side extensions and two-story extensions, and you will need to apply for planning permission. We recommend to always consult your local planning authority to ensure there are no issues later in the project.'

With only one Saturday off in nine months to go to a friend’s wedding, Tom and Calista Hutchinson certainly put in the hard graft when renovating their first home together. The pair were eager to get on the property ladder as Calista had been renting in Leeds city center after finishing university and Tom was living with his parents in Huggate, near York.

‘I’d done the city living thing and, although we hadn’t been together very long, we were ready to settle down,’ says Calista, who’s originally from York. ‘Tom came across a converted grain store for sale in his village, but I wanted to get a new job in the area before we committed. It had been on the market a while and luckily it was still available when I started work at a kitchen company a few months later.’ The couple made the purchase and the renovation began.

Inspired to tackle your own project? We have masses of ideas and helpful advice on what to do and where to start in our feature on house renovation. For more real home transformations, head to our hub page.

Built in 1884 as part of the old manor farm and originally owned by a Sheffield steelmaker, the building was converted into a house in 1995. ‘We wanted a long term home so we stretched ourselves as far as we could,’ says Calista. ‘Fully renovated barn conversions were way out of our price range so it had to be a project. Thankfully Tom had the vision to reconfigure the space using a software app called Room Sketcher, which was a life saver. He’ll have a go at anything, and figured a lot of things out with YouTube videos too.’

The key change was knocking through the kitchen, dining room and utility to make a sociable open-plan space that would fit a big island. Widening the off-center living room chimney breast was also a wise move to create symmetry with built-in alcove shelving on either side. 

With only a couple of beams on show in the living room and kitchen, Calista and Tom wanted to make more of the building’s heritage and uncovered many more beams that had been boxed in with plasterboard. Upstairs the master bedroom was enlarged by stealing space from the adjoining bedroom which became a smart dressing room, and the bathroom and en suite were given a makeover too.

Luckily the couple were able to live with Tom’s parents while working on the house every evening and weekend. ‘It was a horrible slog, especially in the winter months with no central heating, so it was great having them so close,’ says Calista. ‘Although we needed a builder to extend the fireplace, a plumber for the central heating, an electrician and a plasterer, we did everything else with help from Tom’s parents and friends. Tom and his dad even fitted the kitchen themselves. It would’ve cost double if we’d used professionals for everything.’

Calista describes their style as the perfect hybrid of traditional and modern with inspiration coming from Neptune Home. ‘I like cohesion and flow rather than having each room different,’ she says. ‘We used Neptune’s pebble color palette on the walls and woodwork as it suits the country look and makes the house feel warm and homely. Our only blip was using the wrong color on the external window frames, which we realized early on when it didn’t work against the brickwork.’

The house has been dressed with hand painted furniture paired with premium marble tops to create stylish yet personal pieces. ‘We’re so conscious of not modernizing too much and ensuring we protect the property’s original features,’ says Calista. ‘I’m a big believer in doing things myself and making things look more expensive than they are. For instance, some of the candlesticks are just from Hobbycraft but I’ve painted them, or you can elevate an Ikea vase by adding really good fake flowers.’

Although they’d hoped to be in by Christmas, it was the following April before Calista and Tom could finally move in properly. ‘We ended up going around 30 per cent over our original budget, mostly due to the kitchen cost and investing in good quality sofas,’ explains Calista. ‘But we managed to save money with our staff discounts, as well as buying ex display beds for the spare bedrooms and making some of the furniture.’

Having done such a good job of future proofing the house by adding ample storage and creating a timeless look, Calista and Tom reckon their first home could possibly be their forever home. ‘The only thing we might want in future is a bigger garden – but I don’t think we’ll ever find anything like this again,’ Calista says. ‘Going from having everything on your doorstep to not being able to get a phone signal is a bit of a lifestyle change, but I love country living now. We’re so grateful for what we’ve got and wouldn’t do anything differently – but looking back, we were crazy to do what we did!’

If you've ever dreamed of escaping from it all and living off-grid in your own stylish campervan, you're not alone. One couple did just that and took on the challenge of converting a big old school bus into a tiny home that you can now stay in. 

Ailsa and Paul told Real Homes about their incredible DIY journey, and it goes to show what you can do by watching some carpentry videos online.

• Read: Tiny homes for sale: 5 of the UK's smallest properties to buy

Before

Business owner Paul first had the idea when he and his wife Ailsa were traveling around Europe in their self-converted campervan. Originally planning to convert a double-decker, they mapped out floor plans and hunted online for an old bus. But it was while in Madrid that the ambitious pair came across a listing for a classic American school bus for sale in England.

‘We loved it from the first second we saw it and as soon as we found out it hadn’t been snapped up, we decided to beeline straight back to England,' Ailsa said. 'A week later we were the proud owners of ‘Otto’ the skoolie.’ 

After

• Tiny home-owner shares a clever kitchen storage hack that saves cupboard space

The pair ripped out the original seats and transformed the bus into a tiny home oozing with character. With a muted color palette, personal decorative items and a mixture of lots of textures, the space feels bright and welcoming. The bus now has a bed with storage underneath and a day bed seating area for watching television that's decorated with festoon lighting. 

Plus, there's a workspace towards the front of the bus around the area the bus driver would have sat. In a nod to the home's former life, the pair have added traditional signage as seen on old school buses with safety messages for passengers.

‘Paul managed to smash out the build in under three months. It was really exciting seeing the progress he’d made each day when I got in from work,’ she recalls. Paul taught himself how to do the plumbing, electrics, and carpentry needed to convert the bus by watching videos.

'Before bus life, we were spending silly sums of money living in rented apartments in city centres, paying off our landlords’ mortgage,' Ailsa tells Real Homes. 'We were working hard and earning decent wages in good jobs, but huge portions of our wages were going straight on rent, bills and commuting to offices we were spending far too many hours in.'

'It felt like we were living to work - stuck in a very familiar loop so many people seem to find themselves in. There is still a stigma that surrounds this type of lifestyle and people often see it as a sacrifice. We made a conscious choice to veer from the socially accepted first homeowners’ path and hope that we manage to fight some of the preconceived notions surrounding van or bus life.'

• Before and after: A former squat transformed into a sophisticated living room

'In short, van life is the best decision we ever made. We are happier living this life than we ever were before,' she says. 'Otto' the converted school bus is now available to rent on North Wales' beautiful Llyn Peninsula. For further information and for bookings, please visit www.bertskitchengarden.com

Are you tempted by the bus life?

A glass extension is as dreamy as extensions come. Like any extension they add space to your home, opening it up and allowing for a more flexible way of living that we all love. But glass extensions also bring in floods of natural light, connecting your home with your outside space in a way that no other type of extension could. 

Expanses of glass make a real design statement too, whether you are adding them onto a modern home or creating that gorgeous contrast with a period property. Plus they can work in smaller spaces, so you don't need acres of room to add a glazed extension and reap the benefits of all that extra light.

When it comes to cost, glass extensions tend to be more costly than your average extension or conservatory. Building with large pieces of glass is not cheap. However, you can still add a glazed extension on a  tighter budget, we'll talk you through some options here. But it is always important to establish your budget before you start planning your project. So we've broken down all the costs you need to know about, plus plenty of examples of beautiful projects so you can get inspired (and see what you can potentially get for your budget).

• Budget sorted? Find all our glass extensions ideas in our gallery. 

How much does a glazed or glass box extension cost?

On average a glass extension costs £3,000 per m2 for just the glazing. For a glass box extension prices start from around £14,000 for a small glazed extension and go up and over £80,000 for a large project. 

These prices are more than your average extension because glass is an expensive material and can be tricky to install, especially in large expanses. However, there are ways to can add a glass or partially glass extension and stick to a tighter budget and we will cover those here. 

'If you are looking for a high-quality glass extension that maintains a comfortable internal temperature all year round and provides high levels of security whilst maintaining minimal profiles, then probably around £30k upwards you’d be looking at for one that performs as well as it looks.' explains Shannon Normoyle from IQ Glass.

'With glass extensions, the temperate in the internal living space need to be considered carefully, glazing options such as heated glass or solar control glass will be more expensive but it will ensure the space is comfortable and usable all year round. Again one of the main factor in this is the size of the glass extension, obviously the bigger they are the higher the overall cost will be.'

There are factors that will affect the over all price of your project. The materials used being the main one – the type of glass you use and the material used to the frame will impact on the price. Alluminum frames for example will be cheaper than steel and costs will go up if you want to go for solar control coatings or heated glass for your extension.

The type of opening, should you want them, will add to costs too. Adding bi-fold doors to a glass extension would costs around £2,000, depending on the size and design and if you want something more seamless like sliding doors you would be looking at paying almost double, around £3,800, again size dependent. 

A cost that you might not think about it if you would have to hire a crane to move the large glass panels around your space, this could add an extra £5000. Plus, you will also have to add on the costs of hiring an architect and a structural engineer for your project. This is usually anywhere between 3% and 7% of the total cost of the project and a structural engineer would be somewhere between £500 and £1000. 

Plus there's the costs of obtaining planning permission. If you want more details on costs and how to apply, check out our guide to planning permission. You can also get a idea of extension costs that are more specific to your project using our extension cost calculator. 

How much does a glass roof extension cost?

Opting for a glass roof extension, rather than something that's totally glazed is a more affordable option that will still add space and bring in light. Adding a flat glass roof to a brick-built extension would start from £2,500. If you were building a side return extension with a lean-to glass roof made up of pieces of glass rather than one single piece to a brick-built extension, costs on average £3,000. So both of these are more budget-friendly option. 

If you want a seamless look with a roof made up of a single piece of glass than than the length of your extension this will cost more, prices start from around £5,000. For this kind of project it would also be likely you would need to hire a crane if the glass cannot be walked through, or safely around the house. 

Can you add a glass extension on a budget?

Whilst it is possible to add a glass extension on a budget, you are still looking at spending a minimum £14,000 for a smaller extension or a small glazed side return. 

You could also save money on the materials you use, plus the design your go for – it tends to be the larger the pieces of individual glass the more expensive the project, so working with smaller pieces that sit in a slim framework would be a more affordable option. You'll still reap all the benefits of adding a glass extension – the light, the space – but you might not have that totally frameless look that's popular with these kinds of extensions. 

'There are a few ways, for example, aluminum framed glazing systems tend to be more cost-effective than steel-framed glazing systems, so if you were designing a glass extension with sliding doors, opting for the aluminum ones would save some money.' says Shannon. 

'Ultimately though when it comes to glass extensions you don’t want to cut corners. These types of living spaces can become the heart of the home when designed correctly, and you want to ensure that the finished look is modern and minimal, but also that the space is usable all year round. You wouldn’t want to cut corners and end up with a space that overheats in the summer and is cold in the winter.'

If you are looking for a more budget-friendly option, you might want to consider adding a conservatory to your home. You likely won't get that very sleek, contemporary look as you would with a fully glazed structure, but if you want to add space and light on a higher budget, prices to add a conservatory start from just £2,000 for a PVC kit but for £30,000 you could get something really beautiful and bespoke. 

• Find more conservatory ideas in our gallery. 

Does a glass extension add value to your home?

On average a glass extension will add around 7% to the overall value of your home. A brick-built kitchen extension that created an open plan layout could increase value by up to 6% and a larger conservatory could add 5%. So in terms of return on your money a glass extension would be a good investment, despite the high prices. 

• For more information on glass extensions head to our guide.

Looking for glass extension ideas to add space and light to your home? A glazed extension, no matter what the size, is an impactful and stunning addition to a house of any style. Whether it's a matching addition to a modern home, or a contrasting extension to a traditional property, they bring in that openness that everyone wants in their living space. Glazed extensions are also a perfect way of creating room while flooding existing space with light.

Maybe you want to extend your kitchen, connecting it with the garden to create an indoor-outdoor living space. Or maybe a glass box exention would suit your living room, bringing in light. You could even build a glass extension to connect your rooms and create a larger, open-plan space.  

'Glass extensions allow in vast amounts of natural light, highlighting interior design elements and helping spaces to appear bigger than they are.' explains Shannon Normoyle of IQ Glass. 'Biophilic design has become hugely popular over the last couple of years and revolves around forging a connection with nature. Glass extensions can be used for this design style as they provide stunning views of the outdoors and the influx of natural light helps to put people in tune with the natural world. Natural light also has many benefits for people, both mentally and physically.'

And don't go thinking you have to have tons of room for your extension, small glass extensions can be a lovely addition to a home, and really open up a space without taking up an entire garden. Filling a side return with a fabulous glass structure for example, or adding a glass box extension to the back of your kitchen, there are plenty of ways to make it work on a small scale. 

So whatever size space you are dealing with, and whatever style your home, we have plenty of ideas right here to get you inspired to start planning your next project. 

• Find out all you need to know about desiging a glass extension in our practical guide.

1. Add a modern touch to a period property 

As much as we love a period property, they often come with smaller windows that don't allow for much natural light to flow in. Adding a glass extension will of course bring in plenty of natural light and open up space – perfect if you want to create a contemporary open plan kitchen in a period property.

'Many people think that contemporary glass extensions may not work with more traditional buildings, or may be frowned upon in areas such as conservations areas, but this is certainly not true.' says Shannon. 'Large glazing elevations only seek to enhance and complement the host building, and are actually preferred in conservation areas as the minimal design doesn’t alter the overall character of the building. In our wide range of completed projects we have designed glass extensions for almost every building type and style, including listed buildings.'

This modern glass extension by IQ Glass and Eastabrook Architects was built onto the side of a listed cottage to open up the kitchen area, filling it will light throughout the day and creating the seamless flow between indoors and outdoors. There's definitely a contrast between the sandstone and the glass but because the frame is so minimal and the internal wall is still the exposed stone the extension feels united with the rest of the property. 

2. Use a glass extension to link two sides of your home

We love the contrast of this glass extension to the rest of the property, and proves how seamlessly a glass room can work in a more traditional home. To create this gorgeous glass structure AR Design Studio worked with the existing structure and footprint of the build to create this almost glass tunnel that links the two sides of the property together. The space flows almost seamlessly into the garden and patio, making it feel more like a glass courtyard.

3. Bring in more light with a glass lean-to

If you haven't got a ton of room to play with, adding a lean-to extension is a good option. A glass extension doesn't have to be huge to have the desired effect of opening up a space and bringing in lots of lovely natural light. 

Rather than add a side return extension with rooflights, maximize that light by going for a complete glass roof, either made up of a single piece of glass or if you are on a tighter budget, glass panels. Picking a simple glass box design is going to make even the smallest of extensions feel larger.

4. Float a glass box on a second storey extension

This striking split level, double-height, extension by Trace Architects, has transformed the rear of this townhouse, bringing in light to both the first floor and basement living space. The frameless glass box that protrudes into the garden, blurs the boundaries between the outdoors and in. And the fact that it's visually linked by the same use of brick as the main house means that you do get that contrast between old and new but it's not too jarring. 

5. Add a roof lights or a lantern to your extension

Create the allusion of a glass extension, without having to fork out for an entirely glass design by adding roof lights or a glazed roof. 

'Glazed roofs provide an accommodating, stylish solution that can be designed to fit almost any type of property.'  says Sarah Hastings, Digital and Marketing Manager at RW4Y. 'They’re a modern addition to contemporary houses with lean-to roof structures. Largely, glass windows are used on single storey, flat roof extensions but if a pitched roof is required then roof windows are a great alternative.'

'There are lots of styles and glazing options you can go for with your glass roof. The most popular colours are anthracite grey for the external and an internal white finish. As for glazing, you should consider how much light and heat you want to enter the extension, pay particular attention to the glass roofs U-values.' 

6. Merge indoors and out with an open-aspect glass extension

To create an uninterrupted view of the garden from their home, the owners of this home wanted to remove the boundaries between indoors and out.

Origin’s bi-fold doors were recommended for the large expanse of glass and modern architecture they wanted. Two sets allow the entire extension to open out, with the aluminum doors powder-coated in white to match the French windows.

• Find out how to choose the best bi-fold or sliding glass doors.

7. Flood indoors with light with a double extension

These homeowners asked Des Ewing Residential Architects to reorganize their home and open it up to the garden.

The result was a simple contemporary box-shaped extension, with two-story windows and a double-height space giving it a dramatic look. Aluminium-framed glazing and zinc cladding keep it maintenance-free. A new kitchen-dining-living area leads out to a patio.

• Find out more about how to build a two-storey extension in our guide.

8. Create a seamless connection to the garden with a slim frame glass extension

Architect John Onken was asked to transform the ground floor of this house by its owners, who wanted a simple yet elegant kitchen and dining space to complement the new kitchen cabinetry they had planned.

A frameless glass addition was designed to make use of the small patio garden, blurring the boundary between eating inside or alfresco. Black porcelain floor tiles contribute to the seamless connection, and the challenge of lighting the space at night was solved by positioning a light fitting at the edge of the space to throw light inward.

9. Create a bright home office in a glazed extension

Tasked with sensitively extending this traditional cottage by the couple who own it, IQ Glass had to make the new structure as minimal as possible.

A glass box-style design with supporting steel sections features painted glass bands in a light grey finish to match the existing palette. The new space now houses a home office, which sits perfectly on the corner of the property.

10. Build a glazed kitchen extension

As part of a refurbishment, this family asked Lipton Plant Architects to create an open-plan space leading out to the garden of their home.

To obtain a level finish, the floor of the entrance room was lowered to meet that of the rear room. The depth of the floorplan meant as much light as possible was needed, so a glass box design lets daylight in, while creating better views of the garden through bi-fold doors.

• Find out how to plan a kitchen extension in our practical guide.

11. Adding a glass extension to a listed building

The owners of this Grade II-listed property wanted to open up the lower-ground-floor kitchen and living area and extend into the garden, so asked Smerin Architects for a light-filled contemporary glass extension.

The local authority planners didn’t object to a glass-box-style new addition supplied by IQ Glass, and the back wall of the original house can be seen through the glazing.

• Find out more about how to a glazed extension to a listed building.

12. Create a glazed conservatory space

A single-story and a double-height extension were designed for this family home in Leatherhead, Surrey, by Granit Architects.

A glass box was created at the point where the house changes orientation, and the extension runs parallel to the boundary. Glass articulates this pivot, introduces light, and creates a 180º view. A sliding pocket door can be drawn across the glass to make the space cozy in winter.

• Check out more conservatory ideas in our guide. 

13. Add a statement glazed extension to a period home

Poor garden access and a dark kitchen led the owners of this Victorian home to ask Zone Architects for a contemporary glass extension ideas.

A glass-walled pavilion features a slender-edged floating roof to avoid a top-heavy appearance, with fully retractable glass doors on its southern aspect. It adds a light-filled kitchen-diner to the house, and continues the series of reception rooms that face the garden.

14. Angle your extension to make the most of the daylight

In this home a glass box was created at the point where the house changes orientation, and the extension runs parallel to the boundary. Glass articulates this pivot, introduces light,and creates a 180º view. A sliding pocket door can be drawn across the glass to make the space cozy in winter.

• Find out more about building a single storey extension in our essential guide.

15. Add an orangery to suit a period home

If yours is a period home, a contemporary glazed box might not suit it – or your taste. And, while conservatories look beautiful in rustic settings, an urban property is better suited to orangery-style glass extension ideas. The difference? An orangery tends to have more solid elements to its structure – although it is mostly a glazed addition. 

• Discover more orangery design ideas in our gallery. 

16. Add a side return extension 

We love a spot of statement glazing, and this stunning side return extension has certainly captured our attention. Glass works best in a barely-there style, so we love the wide expanses of glazing and the boldly executed roof. 

The exterior packs a punch thanks to the contrast of traditional brickwork and sleek black-framed finish. Most of all, though, we’re sold on the window seat. Picture chilly autumn nights curled up with a cushion, a glass of wine and a blanket... bliss.

17. Consider opting for a curved glass extension

Kitchen extensions don’t get much smoother than this. Curved glazing, slate grey bricks and elegant circular rooflights? We’re swooning.

Opting for glazing instead of solid walls for your extension isn’t only a way to bring the outside in – it’s a brilliant solution for anyone wanting to build a modern addition without challenging the period features of a Victorian house. And to top it all off, a wild meadow roof means you won’t lose your garden views from the first floor (and it’s great for the environment, too). 

How much is a glass extension?

The average price of a glass extension is £3,000 ($4,000) per m². Glass extensions can look wonderful, but they don't come cheap, the average cost of adding a glass room is around £43,000. However they do add value to your home, and can increase its price by 7%, plus from a design perspective, they look beautiful and are the best way to flood your home with natural light. 

Do you need planning permission for a glass extension?

'Planning permissions can vary depending on location, for most homes small extensions are covered by the government's Permitted Development Rights.' explains Shannon Normoyle of IQ Glass. 'For larger extensions planning permission may be needed. In conservation areas, national park and Areas of Outstanding National Beauty, if the extension is a single story extension of up to 3m (or 4m for a detached property), then planning permission is not required. Anything over this, such as side extensions and two storey extensions, and you will need to apply for planning permission. We recommend to always consult your local planning authority to ensure there are no issues later in the project.'

What is the difference between a glass extension and a conservatory?

The difference between a glass extension and a conservatory is that conservatories are made up of window panels, usually constructed from wood or PVC with a glass pitched roof. They are often also mounted onto a dwarf wall. Glass extensions however don't have this frame construction, they can have much more seamless designs with a more subtle framework or no frame at all. 

Conservatories are much more of a standard shape too, whereas you can be more creative with the design of a glass extension, creating something that fits perfectly with your home and the space you are extending out into. 

• If you would like more advice on adding a conservatory just check out our conservatory ideas. 

A glass extension is a contemporary build option that makes a striking design statement, floods your home with light and will increase its value. What more could you want if you're considering transforming your home?

But is it more complicated than a traditional extension? And what design considerations should you factor in to make it a success? 

From how much you can expect to pay for a glass extension to planning permission, design ideas and finding tradesmen to do the job, our guide to glass extensions is here to talk you through the possibilities.

• For all the practical advice you need, check our guide to extending a house.

Planning a glass extension

Before you get on to the design of your glass extension, consider the planning details, such as cost, planning permission, appointing a builder or an architect, how your build will conform to building regulations – and so on. 

How much does a extension costs?

While we'd recommend budgeting for a minimum of £3,000 per m², you can find a more accurate estimation for your glass extension with the help of our extension cost calculator.

'While a conservatory can be a relatively inexpensive alternative to a more solid extension, a glass box extension will almost certainly be more costly,' says Alan Cronshaw from Acronym Architecture & Design.

'You will probably want it to flow from the rest of the house, which may mean compensating for the areas of glass by increasing insulation levels elsewhere or carrying out other energy-saving measures. High-specification glass, the structural solution and alterations to the rest of the house are all costs that are likely to be greater than if you build something more conventional.'

'Fees are likely to be higher for the architect or designer and structural engineer, too, as more work will be involved. You may also have to employ a thermal consultant, unless you’re building something more solid.'

You can keep your costs down by project managing an extension yourself but ensure you are on top of the detail because mistakes, especially if you're ordering large expanses of glass, will be very expensive.

Does a glass extension need planning permission?

'Planners like glass extensions to bridge connections between architectural styles or to add to a home with a very dominant existing style. Conservation officers also like the visible difference between traditional architecture and modern glass,' says Melanie Clear from Clear Architects.

'As long as it’s a considered extension, and not at the front of the property, getting planning permission for your glass extension will be no different to getting planning for a regular extension.'

Who can build a glass extension?

'Glass box extensions will usually involve specialist design detailing. So while you and your architectural designer may produce the layout and elevations for a glass extension, you’ll need to find a designer, manufacturer or contractor to assist with details such as door systems and glazed walls,' says Real Homes property expert Michael Holmes.

'The degree of specialism will depend on what you want to achieve: a structure made entirely of glass, including load-bearing structural glass beams and columns, is very specialist, and there are only a handful of companies that produce this kind of work.

'A contemporary glass extension built with a more conventional structure, such as a steel frame, but with floor-to-ceiling glazing and sliding or folding-sliding glazed doors, is less complicated, and any suitably experienced residential architect and structural engineer can help, working with a glazing specialist or door supplier.'

• Use our guide to how to apply for planning permission if you need more advice. 

Glass as a building material

'While glass can be hard and strong in certain directions, it is rigid, brittle, heavy and unforgiving to movement. This makes it more difficult to install than most other building materials,' says Hugo Tugman of Architect Your Home.

'Uninterrupted areas of glass need to be transported and installed in the form of large, heavy sheets, and often the use of a crane is necessary, which can add to costs significantly.'

What building regulations are needed for a glass extension? 

'Even when using specially formulated glass in double- or triple-glazed systems, more heat tends to be lost through glass than through a solid construction. Modern building regulations require quite high levels of thermal efficiency, and it can be difficult to get a completely glass extension to comply.'

'More of a problem than this can be glare and solar gain in the summer. Even here in the UK, I have seen many such extensions where the owners have had to install blinds to offer shade,' says Hugo.

'Timber framing will give more opportunities for coziness. Similarly, if you go for pure glass walls beneath a solid roof, or even a solid roof with some openings in it, rather than a pure glass roof, it is easier to conceal curtain tracks or blinds recessed into the ceiling that can be drawn down or across for added privacy, shade or warmth.'

Designing a glass extension

A glass extension is all about the design statement: 'It’s hard to beat the wow factor of a substantially or totally glazed extension. It can bring glamour to any project and can also be used as a device to connect two or more solid parts of a house,' says architect Alan Cronshaw. 

'If your property has a good view, floor-to-ceiling glass, or a glass roof, is a great approach to bringing these external elements into play. Using substantial areas of glass is also a way that you can build an extension to a historic building in a contrasting material that may be more subtle than something traditional.'

However, there are important design considerations to make, too. Read on for the most important factors:

1. Will a glass extension work on your house?

'Consider the age of the property and the type of use the glass extension will have. For example, a south-facing glass extension will receive more sun, and so risks becoming very hot inside. A north-facing extension with underfloor heating can be a nice, light addition to a property' says Melanie Clear.

2. How will you furnish your glass extension?

Glazed walls mean a lack of space for fitted furniture and even basics such as electrical sockets (which may need to be positioned in the floor instead). So, consider going part-glazed if that will make your new room more practical. Just ensure you position the glazed sides overlooking the best views of the garden. 

'If your glass extension is part of a kitchen remodel, make sure the units are positioned in the center, as you won’t be able to place them against a glass wall. Using glass as a feature can be a great addition to a period property, and in a 1970s-style home, a framed glass extension can work well with the expansive sections of glazing in the existing building.' says Melanie. 

3. Consider framing options – or an unframed look

'Although the major element of your extension is glass, there are still plenty of design options. The expanses of glass will probably sit in some kind of frame, and it is likely that you will want this to be as thin in profile as possible. Powder-coated aluminum is often chosen where the paint color is applied in the factory, giving a wide range of shades.

'The glazing can have different coatings that will affect the look of the glass extension, from transparent to reflective,' says Alan Cronshaw.

'Whether the glazed panels are fixed, bi-fold, or slide open, will also have an impact on the frames and how the completed glass extension appears.'

4. Opt for glazed doors that open right out

The beauty of a glazed extension is that it can look open to the elements when the doors are closed but really be truly open to the elements when they're open – so choose doors that fold, slide or pivot to create a wide, open expanse that helps you merge the indoors with the garden. 

Ensure practicality is uppermost in your mind though – if the glass extension is the only access point for your garden, the doors you install need to be easy to crack open in winter, as well as to push back in summer.

5. Consider a glass extension's roof as part of the design

If you have a solid roof above the glazing, the structural solution for supporting this will also be a key part of the design, perhaps overhanging to shade the glass from the sun. A brise-soleil, or sun shield, can also be incorporated to perform this function, which will again change the character of the project.

• For more inspiration, go to our glass extension ideas gallery.

When it comes to adding more space to our homes, we seem to share a common mindset that an extension is the best way to go. We think that a larger floor area automatically equals a more functional space. But, that's not always the case. 

As an architect, I am often shown drawings of a big square extension with no illustration of how the space will come together and be used. It is surprisingly tricky to fit an elegant kitchen and dining space into a box where all of the crucial elements have been ignored. Where will the boiler go? Where can you fit a utility cupboard?  Where will the storage fit? How do you access the garden if you have one? These questions are often afterthoughts, which can lead to a large, but poorly utilised, extension, which can even create the illusion of a home being more cramped.

Instead, the feeling of a spacious house or flat is not necessarily determined by the physical square footage, but more by the overall flow of your home.  And oftentimes,  space or storage challenges can be solved with a little creative thinking (no extension required).

By optimising the physical flow of your home, minimising corridors and dead ends, creating up pockets of light, tucking away storage and opening up a view from your entrance door through the house, you'll maximise both your floor space, and your feeling of openness.

So, before you start planning that extension, here are a few strategies for getting the most from the space you already have at home. 

Analyse how you move at home

If you have an existing floor plan of your home, you can draw lines on it that highlight the routes you commonly take throughout the day. For example, the route you take when you wake up and walk to the kitchen for your morning coffee, then how you move while you're getting the kids out the door for school. If you don’t have a plan to hand, sticking masking tape on the floor following the directions that you walk in your home clearly defines your day-to-day circulation.

By analysing the way your routes criss-cross back and forth, you will quickly see where there might be flaws in your existing plans, or perhaps how your current home setup isn't working for you (say, if you have to walk back-and-forth across your home five times just to get dressed in the morning, or you're constantly maneuvering around too-big furniture). Whether you are in a spacious detached house or a compact urban flat, a poorly thought-out home will result in space not being utilised to its full potential.

Make small adjustments to unused space

Once you identify spaces in your home that are serving little purpose, consider how you might make them more functional. This can be as simple as swapping where you store certain items at home, or you can use small structural changes to make a big impact on function. 

You can convert wasted areas into pockets of usable space with simple techniques such as turning the bottom of your stair or moving a doorway. Stairs, for example, are often a straight run flowing down to the front door. If you replace the bottom four or five steps with a simple winder, you will land perpendicular to your entrance door therefore creating a niche for coats, shoes and even a seat at what was the bottom of the stair. 

Get clever with storage

Where structural alterations cannot be undertaken in your home, there are simple ways to make the most of dead spaces or streamline nooks that always seems to get piled high with coats or unopened post.

Integrating elements such as shelving, hooks or seating with base storage can alleviate clutter and free up space in other areas of your home. If you want this new space to become an area where you can sit and read or you are simply looking for a way to create contemporary sleek storage, adding soft floor or wall lamps, area rugs, or a new wall colour are straightforward, design-led ways to create a visually defined zone for this new nook.

It is crucial that you analyse your existing layout to maximise flow and light, unlock the hidden, unused and unloved areas in your house or flat to find the extra space and a feeling of openness in your home.

Here at Real Homes, we've seen many a kitchen extension. But it's a rare treat when we come across a design that make us say wow to ourselves when looking at both the interior, and the exterior. And this home in Surrey is well and truly one of them. 

James Hewitt, an IT consultant, and his partner Pamela Sampson, a former graphic designer and vintage clothing dealer, added a large, shamelessly contemporary rear extension to their Victorian house, in a bid to create a new open-plan family space. They set out to combine new and old throughout the design, including one-off, vintage finds where ever possible.

Head here for more kitchen ideas.

The before

The original kitchen at the rear of the house was cramped with one small window. The space, which was linked to a scullery and WC, was ‘the worst room in the house’, according to James, with polystyrene ceiling tiles, no heating, and no link to the garden. 

‘We knew that by extending to the rear and out into the side return, we could create an open-plan kitchen-living-diner that suited our taste and lifestyle much better,’ recalls James, who used Real Homes as inspiration for the extension’s design.

The after 

James spent hours researching steel-framed doors and windows and eventually settled on these Crittall-inspired frames from Clement Windows, as they complement the retro-style interior really well. As the extension exceeded the size allowed under permitted development rights, planning permission was needed. 

The grey engineering bricks really stand out against the Victorian red-brick of the existing property. ‘We were keen for the extension to create a modern contrast to the Victorian house, rather than being a pastiche to it,’ explains James. They found the garden bench in a skip, and bought the vintage 1930s wrought-iron Louis Vuitton table at a local auction.

The inside

Architect Perry Barnes, a childhood friend of Pamela’s, was asked to create the architectural designs, and gave great advice on issues such as accommodating the change of floor level from the extension to the house, locating the exposed steels and the importance of factoring existing pieces of furniture into the layout. 

One of the key influences on the design was the desire to create better links to the outdoors. This has been achieved through steel-framed glazed doors and a rolling rooflight, which can be opened up when the weather is good to let fresh air into the depths of the room

James and Pamela love vintage, reclaimed and antique items, and so knew that off-the-shelf products and a run-of-the-mill design weren’t for them. ‘Part of what we enjoy so much about renovating the house is researching and sourcing the perfect, one-off pieces,’ explains James. ‘Hardly anything in here is new, and it’s given us scope to put together items that we really love and that have a story behind them. By taking our time and waiting for items we really want, it’s also proved more cost effective than buying everything new.’

The details

James is a keen chef, so when if came to the kitchen itself, he knew exactly the look he wanted. ‘I’m a huge fan of kitchens with a commercial feel, and wanted stainless-steel Moffat Multiplex Modular units,’ he explains. However, at £1,000 for a single unit and with 10-12 units needed, he simply didn’t have the budget to buy bespoke. ‘In the end, I bought the units a few at a time from commercial kitchen auctions,’ he says. ‘I altered them myself, before commissioning a stainless-steel worktop to tie them together.’

Whether cooking in the kitchen or lounging in the garden, one thing is for sure, in this home, you'll be treated to carefully curated, contemporary views, at every angle. 

After a decade of a narrow, tired, traditional kitchen, Gillian Licari and her partner, John Denby, were desperate for bright, modern and wider social space that made the most of the garden sun.

They were so impressed with their neighbours' kitchen, which had been done by Raki at design-and-build company RMR Homes, that they 'asked him to come back and work his magic on ours.’

The result has totally transformed the back of their Victorian terrace in London. A side and rear extension has doubled the size of their kitchen/dining/living space, while the zesty colour choices make it feel fresh and vibrant. Gillian reveals how it all came together.

Want to make more of your poky kitchen? Get some great open-plan kitchen-diner ideas

The before

'After 10 years with our old kitchen, we were ready for a new look,’ Gillian says. ‘Our previous kitchen was completely different to what it is now. It was much more traditional: Art Nouveau-style cupboards with stained glass insets, black granite worktops and blue and copper tiled flooring. We wanted to transform the tired room.

'Raki asked us what was on our wishlist for the kitchen. We wanted to extend the space, open up the back of the property to let more light in, and install units that were stylish but practical. We wanted to keep our big dining table, too. Raki worked the design around those key elements.

‘The plan was to extend across the back of the property into the side return and to install Schueco bi-fold doors, making space for units along both sides of the room as well as a large central island.'

• See also: How to plan a kitchen extension

The process

'We chose everything in advance of the work starting from the RMR Homes showroom – from the worktops and units to the appliances,' Gillian adds. 'More planning up front meant that we were more likely to finish by the deadline at the end.

'The builders ripped out the old kitchen and digging foundations for the extension. We have a huge A-frame pitched roof at the back with six large rooflights. I hate clutter and love my kitchen things to be hidden out of sight. We have pull-out drawers so you can see everything at a glance. They make the most of every inch of space in the room. There’s even drawers in the kickstand under the cooker.

‘Thanks to the planning at the start, the build ran smoothly, taking 12 weeks, and came in on budget at £145,550. There weren’t any unexpected disasters to slow us down. The plaster took longer to dry after a spell of wet weather – but that wasn’t a big deal.'

The details

'For the kitchen, we picked handleless units painted in Cornforth White for the wall units, and then for the island I spotted a vibrant orange called Charlotte’s Locks, both from Farrow & Ball. It looked so good with the other tones in the room. We painted the glass splashback in the same shade to bring it all together. 

‘Our beloved Heal’s dining table and bench takes centre stage in the new dining area. We installed a bespoke built-in bench on the other side to fit the space exactly. John’s a music concert producer, and at his request, there are spacious drawers under the bench that house his extensive collection of CDs. We mounted a TV on the wall at one end of the kitchen with speakers in the corner. It makes that area a great spot to hang out together.

‘We’ve started to take afternoon tea in here, which we never used to do in our old kitchen. We love sitting down at our dining table and enjoying a cup of tea. This room has become a place that we love to relax in.’