Everyone knows lawns need a good amount of water to keep them green and thriving but what's the right amount? You may actually be watering your lawn too often or not enough. 

We asked professional gardeners and landscapers for their advice to make this outdoor task a little more clear. We got the low-down on how often you should be watering your lawn, how much water you should be using, and the best time of day to give it a good soak. 

See their helpful lawn care tips to keep your front and backyards properly hydrated.

How long should you water a lawn for?

If you're new to landscaping, it may be a little stressful to learn all the ins and outs of lawn maintenance. Once you've mowed your lawn to get it looking neat and tidy, you'll have to give it some water to keep it hydrated and growing strong.

But how much water does it actually need? It's an important piece of info to avoid a waterlogged yard. Thankfully, the pros are here to help.

"It's recommended to water your lawn for 30-45 minutes every second day, ideally between 4 AM and 7 AM," says Melissa Erin, Chief Strategy Officer of Paramount Landscaping Inc.

"This early morning timing helps prevent water loss due to evaporation and reduces the risk of disease, as the grass has time to dry during the day. Watering during this period also ensures the water soaks deeply into the soil, reaching the roots more effectively," says Melissa. 

Finding the right time for you

When it comes to landscaping, a certain amount of customization is necessary. After all, one person's yard may be vastly different from another's. The time of year may also affect your watering schedule as summer lawn care has different requirements due to the heat.

"The amount of water your lawn needs can vary based on factors like climate, soil type, and the specific grass species. A general rule of thumb is to aim for about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall, to keep your lawn healthy. One practical way to measure this is by using a rain gauge or even a simple can to collect and measure water depth," says Melissa. 

The good news is, when it comes to frequency, sometimes less is more. "Different-sized lawns will obviously need different amounts of water to cover. We recommend using a hose to water deeply and infrequently, rather than shallow and frequently so that the ground below the lawn becomes fully soaked. The more water that gets through to the ground below the better as it encourages the root systems to grow downwards into the soil towards the moisture and helps improve the stability of the turf," says Chrissie Handley, a lawn care specialist working for Online Turf.

How to know if your lawn needs water

It can be a little tricky to know when your lawn is in need of water, especially if you have an unconventional yard like a clover lawn. "To check if your lawn has been adequately watered, you can use the 'finger test.' Simply insert your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle (about an inch deep). If the soil feels moist, you've provided enough water. If it's dry, you may need to water a bit more," says Melissa. 

You can generally tell if your lawn is in need of water by feeling and looking at the grass. "A well-watered lawn will have a uniform green color and will spring back when walked on. If the grass blades remain flattened after being stepped on, it might be a sign of insufficient water. Regularly checking the soil moisture and observing your lawn's response can help you fine-tune your watering schedule," Melissa explains.

Lawn care essentials

In addition to watering, make sure to maintain your yard by aerating the lawn. Finding the right type of grass to use is also an important step. "Incorporating native or drought-resistant grasses and plants into your lawn can reduce water needs, as these species are adapted to local climate conditions and require less maintenance," says Melissa.

If your lawn is full of water, it's a good idea to fix this as soon as possible, so it doesn't damage your turf or grow moss or algae.

I've asked gardening and landscaping experts who have dealt with this how to make sure your lawn drains properly and adjust your lawn care practices to ensure it stays at the right moisture levels.

When taking care of your lawn, it's important to make sure it doesn't get too damp, as this can damage the area. Thankfully, if you are experiencing this issue, it's super easy to fix.

Step 1: Assess the damage

First of all, assess the extent of the waterlogging, as this will determine the steps you need to take next.

“Determine the severity and extent of the waterlogging,” says Tony O’Neill, gardening expert and founder of Simplify Gardening. 

From here, he says to identify areas that remain wet for extended periods and check for poor drainage signs, such as pooling water.

“We inspect the gutters and downspouts, ensuring water flows away from foundations,” adds Scott McLeod, landscaping expert and owner of McLeod Landscaping. 

Step 2: Improve soil drainage

The most important step for fixing a waterlogged lawn is aerating your lawn, as improving the soil drainage will ensure water runs through it properly. 

“Use a lawn aerator to punch holes into the soil, which helps improve air circulation and water drainage,” Tony explains. “Aeration should be done in the growing season when the grass is actively growing.”

If you don't have one to hand, the Gymax Rolling Garden Lawn Aerator from Walmart is a great choice as it's quick to assemble, is fast and efficient, and has a clever roller.

After doing this, he suggests applying a thin layer of sand or compost to the lawn to help improve soil structure and drainage over time. 

If you’re dealing with a more severe waterlogged lawn, you can also install French drains to direct excess water away from the lawn. You can either do this yourself or get a professional to do this for you.

Step 3: Adjust lawn care practices

Once you’ve got your lawn draining properly, you need to make sure you adapt your lawncare routine to help prevent future waterlogging. 

Tony says, “Reduce the frequency and amount of watering to prevent over-saturation. Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep root growth.”

“You can also keep the grass slightly longer to help improve root strength and soil structure,” he adds.

Just make sure to avoid mowing the lawn with your best lawn mower when the area is wet to prevent soil compaction.

Step 4: Improve lawn grading

Tony recommends making sure your lawn is graded properly to facilitate lawn runoff.

“Regrade any low-lying areas that collect water to create a gentle slope away from the lawn,” he explains.

This can often involve adding or redistributing soil to achieve the desired slope. If yours is looking a little bumpy, you can learn how to level a lawn.

Step 5: Plant water-tolerant grass varieties

Another great way to ensure your backyard stays dry is by seeding your lawn with grass varieties that are more tolerant of wet conditions.

“Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) is known for its deep root system and tolerance to both drought and waterlogging,” Tony explains.

He also suggests trying perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne), as this establishes quickly and has a good tolerance.

By following these steps, you can ensure your grass looks gorgeous and is ready for you and your guests to enjoy. 

Tony says, “In my own garden, I dealt with a particularly stubborn waterlogged area by implementing aeration.”

“Over time, this method significantly improved the drainage and health of my lawn, allowing it to thrive even during rainy seasons,” he finishes by saying.

Want to ensure your lawn doesn’t get damaged again? Learning the lawn mowing mistakes not to make could also come in useful. 

If you want your lawn to look picture-perfect, removing clovers will make it look much neater.

I've asked gardening and landscaping pros for the key steps required to get rid of these, which are thankfully all easy to do. They're run through the two key removal methods — manual and chemical — as well as everything you need to know maintenance wise. 

For those caring for lawns and wanting to remove these wildflowers from your yard, these steps are all worth following.

Method 1: Manually getting rid of a clover lawn

The easiest way to remove clovers is by manually removing them. This might take a bit of time for those with larger backyards rather than small backyards, but it will mean you won't need to use any chemicals.

“Use a weeding tool to ensure you get the entire root system to prevent regrowth,” advises Tony O'Neill, gardening expert and founder of Simplify Gardening.

Not got one to hand? The Grampa's Weeder from Amazon has been loved by gardening pros for 100 years thanks to its easy maneuverability, its bamboo handle, and lightweight. 

Method 2: Chemically getting rid of a clover lawn

If you'd rather go for a fast and effective method, you can also remove the clover completely with weed killer.

“If you’re planning on reseeding after removing clover, I recommend killing the plant,” says Scott McLeod, landscaping expert and founder of McLeod Landscaping Inc. “I recommend Ortho Weed-B-Gon from Amazon, applying two or three times over two weeks.”

For larger infestations, Tony says to consider using a selective herbicide that targets clover but spares the grass. The Southern Amine Weed Killer from Amazon has a low economical use rate and can be sprayed on when mixed with water. 

Maintaining your lawn after getting rid of clover

Once you’ve removed clover from your lawn, it’s time to plant new grass and keep clover at bay. 

• New grass: First of all, aerate your lawn and soil, add compost, and bring in new grass seeds. “For New England, I prefer seed blends with ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and fine fescue,” Scott suggests. “Make sure to fertilize new grass at three to four inches.”
• Fertilization: “Clover often grows in lawns with low nitrogen levels. Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help your grass outcompete the clover,” says Tony. For instance, the Pennington Ultra Green Fertilizer from Amazon not only has high nitrogen levels but will also make your grass even greener.
• Watering: “Water your lawn deeply but infrequently to encourage deep grassroots,” explains Tony. “Clover prefers moist soil, so reducing surface moisture can help deter it.”

Mowing your lawn with your best lawn mower, watering and fertilizing regularly will establish the lawn in six to eight weeks. 

Clover lawn removal essentials

By applying one of these removal methods and establishing a new lawn that will deter clover, you’re sure not to have any more issues with it.

“In my own lawn, I struggled with clover patches for a few seasons. By increasing the mowing height and applying a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer, I managed to create a healthier lawn that naturally outcompeted the clover,” Tony explains.

“This experience reinforced the importance of maintaining a balanced and nutrient-rich lawn care routine,” he finishes by saying.

Rather maintain this kind of lawn, rather than remove it? Learning how to grow a clover lawn will be more useful. Or, if grass is too much hassle for you, finding no-mow lawn alternatives could be better for you.

Ever wondered how to aerate a lawn and achieve that professional finish? Well, you’re in the right place.

Lawns require more than a regular water, trim and weed. In fact, the art of maintaining a healthy lawn relies on the balance of a host of techniques, including how often and how well its aerated.

If you’re new to lawn care, or a seasoned pro looking for some additional tips, our experts are on-hand to help. But, first of all, let’s dive into why it’s important not to skip this step when working on your yard this summer.

What is aerating a lawn?

Lawn aeration is the process of poking small holes into the soil to improve the circulation of air flow into this area of your yard. It helps to alleviate any soil compaction, which can impact the health of your grass, and allow water, air and other nutrients to penetrate the soil.

Aerating your lawn can improve the health and longevity of your grass, so it remains vigorous and rich every single year. Alongside, letting out any build up of carbon dioxide, aeration helps combat any thatch. That's the dried, brown grass that collects when you mow your lawn.

Bryan Clayton CEO, GreenPal explains: "Your lawn gets a lot of foot traffic—kids playing, backyard BBQs, you name it. Over time, this traffic compacts the soil, making it as hard as a rock. When your soil is compacted, it’s tough for anything to get through; water, nutrients, and air can’t penetrate effectively.”

“Aeration comes in to break up this compacted soil, literally giving your grass a breath of fresh air. It punctures the ground, creating holes that allow all the good stuff to reach the grass roots.”

If you don’t aerate your lawn, then the roots can't get the water or nutrients they need, which can prohibit further growth of your lawn, as the soil becomes dense and compressed.

To keep it healthy, aerate your lawn twice a year, using a handy tool such as the manual Vanpein core aerator from Amazon.

How to aerate your lawn

Our experts share the step-by step process to aerate your lawn well.

Step 1: Wait for the right weather

It’s important to aerate your lawns during the spring or autumn months, as the grass needs to be moist in order to aerate it well, but whilst avoiding heavy saturation.

If there’s been high rainfall the day before, wait a few days to aerate your lawn when the moisture has dried up a bit. If you were to let that rainwater fully penetrate into the soil by aerating, this could over-saturate your lawn and leave it water logged.

Similarly, if your grass has dried out during hot and humid periods, wait to aerate until the weather changes and there is some rainfall. After all, it’s easier to penetrate soft soil than parched summer soil.

Step 2: Decide on method of aeration

There are three different types of aeration: plug aerators, spike aerators and liquid aerators.

Core or plug aerators, such as the bestselling Agri-Fab 48-inch Plug Lawn Aerator from Lowe's, are widely regarded as the most efficient method, as it extracts a plug of soil to allow a deeper access to the lawn.

Whereas, spike aerators (such as the Meoligr aerating tool with wide foot plate from Amazon) simply poke holes into the ground, without removing any of the existing soil. Sometimes this can compress the soil further, so core or plug aerators are considered the better option.

Liquid aeration is mainly on lawns where physical aerators would be less effective, as the weather conditions or soil make it difficult to penetrate into the grass root layer.

The size of your lawn can impact the method of aeration you might want to use. For small spaces, a manual tool to aerate the lawn such as the spike or plug aerator.

If you have a larger lawn, it might be worth investing in an electric aerator, as long as you have the space to store it.

Step 3: Aerate the soil

Using your chosen tool, make your way across your lawn and create small holes in the grass. These holes need to be around five inches deep with a six-inch gap between sections to ensure there is enough space for the air to circulate and water to seep into the roots.

"Aerating your lawn can feel like a miracle cure," Bryan says. "This rejuvenation makes your grass thicker and healthier. Also, those holes left by the aerator? They’re perfect for overseeding. Throw some seed down after aerating, and you're essentially hitting the refresh button on your lawn."

Step 4: Water your lawn

When you’ve finished aerating your lawn, it’s time to give it a generous drink. Allow the soil to soak up some of this moisture to start the revitalizing process of nurturing and growing your grass.

Steo 5: Repeat

For the best results, repeat this entire process at another point in the year. Pick a date in the spring and one in the autumn and mark it on your calendar, so that weather permitting, your lawn is booked for an aeration twice a year.

"Aerating at least once a year, particularly during the fall, preps your lawn to be lush and green come spring," Bryan adds.

"More times don't hurt, but hitting that once-a-year mark is crucial for maintaining a healthy yard."

You can learn about other yard jobs on our dedicated gardening calendar.

Now you have aerating your lawn under firm control, learn about the mowing mistakes to avoid, and how to seed a patchy lawn.

Knowing how to grow a clover lawn is a great way to create a fresh, healthy and eco-friendly lawn to be proud of. 

Our garden and landscaping experts will walk you through the simple steps to plant a clover lawn and maintain it all year round. 

When it comes to expert lawn care tips, this guide will help you establish a rich and healthy lawn, and provide answers to any burning questions you may have. 

How to grow a clover lawn like a pro

An eco-friendly and low-maintenance alternative to traditional lawns, growing a clover lawn is a popular option when it comes to landscaping ideas for a small backyard. 

Clover lawns are not only attractive with their lush, green coverage and charming white flowers, but they also offer numerous benefits such as improving soil health, attracting pollinators, and requiring less water and fertilization. 

Here’s our expert, step-by-step guide on how to cultivate a thriving clover lawn.

1. Prep your backyard

The first step in growing a clover lawn is preparing your backyard. 

Remove any debris, such as rocks, sticks, and old leaves, remove weeds, and mow the existing grass as short as possible. 

Bryan Clayton, CEO of GreenPal, says, "Though it might not be the most fun part of the process, it's important to clear out any existing grass or weeds by giving the area a good rake to loosen the soil and remove debris. This helps your clover seeds make good contact with the soil, which is crucial for germination."

If your lawn has dense or compacted soil, consider aerating it to improve soil structure and promote better root growth. Aerating can be done with a manual or mechanical aerator, which creates small holes in the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate more easily. This Walensee Lawn Aerator from Amazon is easy to put together and uses 15 metal spikes. 

Next, test your soil’s pH level. Clover thrives in slightly acidic to neutral soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. This Insten Soil pH Meter from Target measures the light and moisture levels, as well as the acidity or alkalinity. 

If your soil is too acidic, add lime to raise the pH. If it’s too alkaline, sulfur can be added to lower it. Adjusting the soil pH to the optimal range will create the best growing conditions for your clover lawn.

2. Shop for supplies

Once your backyard is prepped, it’s time to gather your supplies. The main item you’ll need is clover seed. 

There are different types of clover, but white clover (Trifolium repens), also known as Dutch clover, is the most commonly used for lawns due to its resilience and low-growing habit. These Outsidepride White Dutch Clover Seeds from Walmart are nitro-coated and come in a range of bag sizes from 1 lb to 50 lbs. 

Bryan says, "White Dutch clover is popular due to its durability. Grab a spreader for even seed distribution, and I'd also recommend a starter fertilizer — look for one that’s low in nitrogen, since clover fixes its own nitrogen."

Other useful items include a rake to help lightly cover the seed with soil, as well as some topsoil or compost to help with seed germination; this is especially vital if your existing soil is poor. 

3. Plant the clover

Planting clover is a straightforward process, but timing is important. Clover seeds should be sown in early spring or early fall when the soil is warm and there is adequate moisture for germination. 

Begin by distributing the seeds evenly across the prepared soil. Bryan says, "You can spread the seeds by hand or — for larger gardens — I'd recommend a broadcast spreader for even coverage. Lightly rake the area post-seeding to help the seeds settle in, then give it a gentle watering."

After raking, cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil. This helps protect the seeds from birds and ensures good soil contact.

Water the area thoroughly but gently to avoid washing away the seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until the clover seeds have germinated and the seedlings are well established. 

Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Lawn Love, says, "Though clover can germinate in as little as three days, it typically takes about a week. Mist your clover daily to ensure good seed establishment."

4. Look after your lawn

Once your clover lawn is established, it requires minimal maintenance compared to traditional grass lawns. Clover is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require frequent watering. 

One of the major advantages of a clover lawn is its ability to fix nitrogen from the air, reducing the need for additional fertilization. In fact, adding too much fertilizer can harm the clover. During dry spells, an occasional deep watering will suffice. 

Jeremy says, "Water your clover lawn deeply once or twice per week during periods of prolonged drought and aerate it annually." 

This Orbit Oscillating Water Sprinkler from Amazon can water up to 4,000 square feet of lawn. 

Though clover lawns require less watering and fertilizing than other lawns, they still require active maintaining. 

Bryan says, "Don't get confused — clover is low-maintenance but not no-maintenance. Mow about every seven days to keep it tidy and help prevent other weeds from settling in. You won’t need much fertilizer, but an occasional light application can help, especially in poorer soils."

Bryan recommends this GARDENWISE 13-13-13 All-Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon provide balanced plant nutrition and a fast-release formula. 

Bryan adds, "Watch out for bare spots and overseed as needed. Clover can get patchy if not maintained. Also, be vigilant about hand-picking weeds since typical weed killers will damage clover too."

To overseed, simply scatter the seeds over the bare spots, rake lightly, and water well until the new clover is established.

FAQs

What is the difference between a white clover lawn and a dutch clover lawn?

A white clover lawn and a Dutch clover lawn essentially refer to the same thing. Dutch clover, or Trifolium repens, is a specific type of white clover known for its durability and low-growing habit, making it ideal for lawns. Both terms are often used interchangeably to describe a lawn planted with this resilient and attractive clover variety.

What are the most common problems when growing a clover lawn?

The most common problems include over-fertilization, which can harm the clover, and excessive foot traffic, which can cause wear and tear on the lawn. Pests such as slugs and snails can also be an issue, though they are usually manageable. Regular mowing and proper soil pH maintenance can help mitigate many of these problems. Understanding the clover lawn pros and cons can help you better manage these issues.

What is the best type of clover lawn seed to use?

The best type of clover lawn seed to use depends on your specific needs. White clover lawn seeds are popular due to their hardiness and low maintenance. For a finer texture, you might consider micro clover lawn seeds, which produce smaller leaves and create a denser, more uniform lawn.

What are the pros and cons of a clover lawn?

A clover lawn has several advantages, such as being drought-tolerant, requiring less mowing and fertilization, and improving soil health by fixing nitrogen. It also attracts beneficial insects like bees. However, some cons include its tendency to attract pests like slugs and snails, potential damage from heavy foot traffic, and its tendency to go dormant during extreme weather conditions. Weighing these clover lawn pros and cons can help you decide if it's the right choice for your yard.

Meet our experts

So there you have it — how to grow a clover lawn in four simple steps. With proper preparation, planting, and minimal maintenance, you can enjoy a lush, green clover lawn that benefits both your yard and the environment.

Next, check out this 2024 sustainable landscaping trend worth trying. 

Bringing the best lawn edging ideas is not only a practical choice but will pull the overall look of your outdoor space together.

Garden edging can be used in a variety of ways, from giving a lovely definition to your borders to framing a feature. Flowers, stone, wood, and more are just a few ways you can use this technique to add a polished feel to your backyard.

If you're looking for backyard landscaping ideas and are ready to put the finishing touches on your lawn or flowerbeds, edging is a beautiful way to enhance your fine trimming work.

The best lawn edging ideas for beautiful beds 

Whether you're looking for front yard landscaping ideas or ones for the back of your home, lawn edging will come in useful.

Where our experts have recommended specific garden edging buys, we have shopped these wherever possible to help you get started.

The prices below were correct at the time of publishing this article. 

1. Use stone garden edging to enhance evergreens

For a long-lasting, elegant finish, you can't beat real stone lawn edging which happens to look beautiful next to evergreen planting. 

Pick a material and finish that complements other hard landscaping in your garden, such as retaining walls or any garden paving ideas you have going on. 

We recommend combining straight and curved sections to create the perfect contour for the shape you're working with.

2. Choose flower edging for natural borders

Bring color into your lawn edging border by going for an abundant mixtures of flowers. 

You could go for an abundant mixture of Dahlia, Lilium and Gladiolus to keep your space free-flowing. Mix it up and add in more plants for fragrance, including herbs like lavender, rosemary and thyme (the Burpee Organic Thyme Herb Seeds from Walmart are easy to grow and non-GMO seeds), and be sure to keep some evergreens in there for year-round structure. 

Just be sure to remember that your flower bed ideas are also your garden edging ideas, so make sure to add height to create the separation you desire. 

3. Use sleepers to DIY garden edging

Add a rustic touch to your backyard by adding lawn edging with wood to your space. 

You can DIY this yourself simply by cutting wood planks to the desired size, sanding them down, and then giving them a varnish.

They're also one of the best low-maintenance garden ideas, as once they're in your desired spot, you can just leave them be. 

4. Line bright borders with natural rocks

This is another beautiful and natural garden edging idea. Rocks not only look and work a treat at not moving if you choose heavy ones, but they're also a total breeze to install easy to install. 

There's also more variety in terms of shape and size. You could even paint them to add to your backyard decor, such as by using the Daltack Large Painting Rocks from Amazon which are large, hard, and smooth.

5. Edge your garden pathways with brick

Using brick to edge your garden space will give a lovely, relaxed finish to your borders. The soft look will suit cottage-style gardens perfectly. 

You can even use reclaimed bricks for an even cheaper DIY project. Either way, this is a smart way to keep mulch for evergreens and other garden plants in place.

6. Use roped edging posts for modern definition

Want more definition to your lawn edging? Edging posts are a great way to achieve a flawless finish and create a laidback look.

These can easily be built yourself with strong wooden posts and sturdy rope. While they might not stop weeds coming through, they will still visually define your edging. 

7. Cheat with plastic lawn edging for a real stone effect

If you're looking for cheap backyard ideas that are easy to install and aesthetically pleasing to look at too, look no further than stone-effect plastic lawn edging. 

It's also a good idea to pick edging that slots directly into the ground such as the Novashion Garden Edging from Walmart pictured above, which is made from durable PP plastic and has pieces that lock into each other.

Our advice? Bury it deep and plant right up to it in your garden borders, so no one will notice it's plastic.

8. Use wood garden edging to add height

Timber lawn edging works particularly well in rustic garden schemes and in cottage gardens. 

Look for one that's flexible, such as the PaMeer Natural Wooden Border Edging from Amazon that's Amazon's Choice, is easy to install, and is corrosion resistant.

You can either leave this  natural for a simple look or stain or paint it for a more contemporary effect. 

9. Use garden edging inside a patch of lawn

If you have a patch of grass or a flowerbed right in the middle of your lawn, make it really shine by adding a lawn edging border around it. 

This is an especially fabulous choice if you're looking for small backyard ideas and want to create a focal point that distracts from the size of your space.

10. Pick pebble lawn edging

Pebbles are not only great for creating a natural look in the garden, but are also ultra inexpensive to bring in.

To make sure they don't move around too much, we recommend mounting them onto mesh or finding ones that come with this pre-done, such as the Parkland Pebble Border from Amazon. There are three different pack sizes to choose from and it can also be used in bathrooms, too. 

11. Keep garden edging neat and modern with metal

For those looking for sturdy and strong garden edging ideas, metal lawn edging is a great way to combine style and strength.

What's really great about this type of lawn edging is that it won't rust, and you can pretty much forget about it once you've fitted it. It's also ideal for contemporary backyard ideas and designs.

These can come in a range of shapes and sizes, but if you just want a classic design, the Lovshare Steel Landscaping Edging from Amazon is flexible and can be instantly installed.

12. Use low box hedge as garden edging

Dense, low-growing hedge plants are excellent candidates for natural garden edging. All you need to do is remember to trim them with a hedge trimmer every year. 

The traditional box hedge is easily the best shrub for this purpose, as it can be trimmed to the exact height and shape you require, all while maintaining the thickness you need for your lawn edging.

13. Mark out a garden pond with paved edging

If you have a natural water feature like a garden pond in your backyard, it will look even prettier if you frame it with paved lawn edging. 

We advise using stone paving slabs, as these look more natural than brick and look lovely alongside raw lawn edging. 

14. Use woven edging to define beds

For a rustic, relaxed look, woven or pleated garden edging is a beautiful choice that looks even more characterful than stone. 

Here, a kitchen garden has been separated from the rest of the backyard with woven hazel branches. 

This is a great DIY option that can be made for free if you can source fallen branches from a woodland.

The lawn edging material you use depends on the space you're working with, as well as your backyard's style and your budget. 

Many of these will also complement backyard privacy ideas, enhancing the look of both privacy screens and plants.

Great lawn care is the key to achieving a lush lawn you and your guests can savour.

From mowing advice to weed control, our garden pros reveal the 11 simple steps they take to help their clients (and themselves) keep a healthy, happy and luscious lawn on the go year-round.

When it comes to beautiful backyard ideas, we'd argue it all starts with a fabulous lawn. 

11 Lawn tips from the pros

Combining great landscaping ideas with high-quality lawn care will really make the most of your garden. From aeration to fertilization, our green-thumbed experts will walk you through 11 tips for lawn care, with step-by-step instructions to master each stage. 

Where our pros have suggested products, we've sourced high-quality items from trusted retailers.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

1. Water your lawn in the morning

When it comes to top-quality lawn care, timing is everything. Since mowing in the heat is among the most common mowing mistakes, and doing it in the evening has its downsides too, a morning mow is your ticket to a healthy lawn.

Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Lawn Love, says, "During the summer, you want to aim to only water your lawn in the morning, ideally before 10 or 11 am depending on your climate. 

"Once the temperature heats up, water evaporates quickly meaning your lawn is getting less and you're wasting more water for the same effect. Or, if your sprinklers are automated, your grass isn't getting enough water."

Watering in the morning gives grass blades time to dry before evening, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and weeds that both thrive in damp conditions.

Jeremy adds, "Standing water overnight can increase the chance for grass or soil diseases — not to mention pest problems. That's why I'd recommend avoiding the evening as well."

It's good to know many species of ants need water for nesting and therefore having water pooling on your lawn overnight will make it harder to get rid of ants. 

2. Fertilize your lawn strategically

Fertilizing your lawn is crucial for providing the nutrients it needs to thrive. However, it’s important to apply fertilizer strategically. 

Jeremy says, "Fertilizing plays a crucial role in your summer lawn care schedule. By fertilizing your lawn, you can promote healthier, more lush-looking grass in just weeks. 

"However, with fertilizer, too much is not a good thing. If your lawn looks like it’s struggling, don’t be tempted to over-fertilize to save it. Yes — fertilizing your grass is one of the easiest ways to give the soil nutrients and promote growth. However, over-fertilizing can have the opposite effect you’re looking for. 

"If you over-fertilize your lawn, you may 'burn' your grass and cause permanent damage. Instead, it’s essential to find the recommended amount of fertilizer for your yard’s grass type and apply it accordingly."

Scotts Green Max Lawn Food from Amazon can cover 5,000 square feet and contains 5% iron to enhance the greening process. 

Fertilizing your lawn will also help keep weeds from taking hold, and you can double up the process with a weed and feed product such as Scott's Weed and Feed available on Amazon, as recommended by our experts, to kill weeds and fertilize your lawn at the same time. Learn more ways to kill weeds.

3. Sharpen the lawn mower blades

A clean cut is essential for maintaining healthy grass. Dull mower blades tear the grass, causing jagged edges that can turn brown and invite disease and also increasing the risk of pulling out your grass instead of giving it a little off the top.

Ryan Farley, chief executive officer of LawnStarter, says, "With sharp blades, your grass can get a healthy and clean cut, whereas with dull blades, your lawn can start looking less than its best, turning sickly and brown. 

"The reason is that while sharp blades effectively slice off the top portion of grass blades, dull blades rip and tear away the grass, which causes stress to the grass and makes it more susceptible to diseases."

Sharpen your mower blades at least once a season, or more often if you notice the grass looks ragged after mowing.

Ryan adds, "The best way to sharpen lawnmower blades is to use a 10-inch file or grindstone. Wearing protective gear, hold the file at a 45-degree angle and start from the top of the blade. Don't slide the file back and forth — push down in one direction, place the file at the starting point, and repeat."

This Uxcel Diamond Coated 10-inch File from Walmart is water-resistant and has a plastic, anti-slip handle. 

Learn how to sharpen lawnmower blades safely in our expert-led guide.

4. Mow the grass high

Setting your mower blades higher helps maintain a healthy lawn. 

Ryan says, "Mowing your grass to be a little taller encourages strong root growth, which in turn helps your lawn become more drought-resistant and heat-tolerant, so it will benefit your lawn all summer and in the future. 

"For warm-season grasses, aim to set your mowing height 2-3 inches high, and for cool-season grasses, aim to set your mowing height to no shorter than three inches tall. This will also impact how often you mow. 

"Ideally, when you mow, you don’t want to take off more than a third of your grass blades’ height, because any more than that can cause stress to the turf."

Check out our guides to the best lawn mowers, or — for small gardens — the best lawn mower for tiny outdoor spaces to help pick the right mower for you.

5. Avoid overwatering the lawn

While it’s important to keep your lawn hydrated, over-watering can be just as harmful as under-watering. 

Ryan says, "During the hottest months of the year, people often make the mistake of watering their lawns too much. Ideally, when you water your lawn, you want the water to go 6-8 inches deep into the soil. 

"To figure out if you’re over or under-watering your lawn, take a long screwdriver and drive it into the soil. If the soil is dry and you’re having a tough time getting it through, then you’re probably under-watering. If it slips right in, you’re over-watering."

Too much water can lead to shallow root growth, making your lawn more susceptible to drought and disease. It can also encourage the growth of weeds and fungi. Investing in a rain gauge (such as this Taylor Precision Products Rain and Sprinkler Gauge from Target) and soil moisture sensor (like this XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon) can help you better manage your lawn’s water needs.

Ryan adds, "Remember that it's better to water deeper but less frequently compared to shallower and everyday because it encourages stronger root growth. Even in the hottest, driest areas, you typically don’t need to water every day. Pay attention to the weather as well — if it rains, you don't want to be mowing your lawn the next day."

6. Control weeds

Weeds compete with your grass for nutrients, water, and sunlight, so avoiding weeding mistakes and getting rid of weeds from your lawn is essential for its health. 

Zahid Adnan, founder of The Plant Bible, says, "Effective weed control is key to maintaining optimal lawn health and aesthetics. Begin by identifying the type of weeds present in your lawn, then apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weed seeds from germinating."

Zahid recommends Preen Weed Control and Lawn Care from Amazon which kills up to 250 types of weed including thistle and chickweed.

He adds, "For existing weeds, use post-emergent herbicides, or pull weeds manually, ensuring you remove the entire root. By reducing competition, grass can access more resources for healthy growth."

This Spectracide Weed Stop from Target kills more than 470 weed-types without damaging your lawn and is a safe bet but check which type of grass you have before applying any wide-spectrum herbicide.

7. Aerate the lawn

Aerating your lawn involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This process helps alleviate soil compaction, which can restrict root growth and lead to a less vigorous lawn. 

Zahid says, "Aeration promotes a healthier root system and helps to break down thatch. It's best done in the fall or spring when your grass is actively growing.

"Use a core aerator, which removes small plugs of soil from the lawn, making multiple passes over the lawn to ensure even coverage. Leave the soil plugs on the lawn to decompose naturally."

Aerating your lawn once a year can significantly improve your lawn’s health and resilience. Zahid recommends the vanpein Lawn Aerator Coring Garden Tool from Amazon, particularly for smaller areas or spot treatments. 

8. Dethatch the lawn

Thatch is a layer of dead grass, roots, and other organic material that can build up between the soil and the grass blades. While a small amount of thatch is normal, excessive thatch can prevent water, nutrients, and air from reaching the soil. 

To dethatch your lawn, use a dethatching rake or a power dethatcher to remove the excess material. As with aeration, this process is best done in the late spring or early fall when the grass is actively growing. After dethatching, water and fertilize your lawn to help it recover and fill in any bare spots.

Rafi Friedman, chief executive officer of Coastal Luxury Outdoors, says, "Dethatching and aerating keeps your lawn from crowding itself out and allows for much better water flow and drainage, so I'd highly recommend getting your lawn thatched and aerated once a year. 

"If you're on top of everything else — regular mowing, the right mix of fertilizer, and a proactive approach to weed control — this is the key difference between a good lawn and a great lawn."

This Walensee 15-Inch Lawn Dethatching Rake from Walmart has 19 curved steel tines (prong) to penetrate beneath the surface. For an electric option, this SWIPESMITH 15-Amp Electric Dethatcher from Amazon comes with a special scarifying blade.

9. Overseed bare patches

Bare patches in your lawn can be unsightly and invite weed growth. Overseeding is the process of planting new grass seed in these areas to promote a fuller, healthier lawn. 

Start by preparing the soil by raking away debris and loosening the top layer. Choose a grass seed that matches your existing lawn and spread it evenly over the bare spots. Lightly rake the seeds into the soil and water regularly to keep the area moist until the new grass establishes. 

Overseeding in the fall or spring is ideal, as cooler temperatures and more frequent rainfall support seed germination and growth.

10. Keep the lawn edges neat

Neat lawn edges can significantly enhance the overall appearance of your lawn. Use a string trimmer or edging tool to create clean, defined borders along driveways, walkways, and flower beds. 

Regular edging prevents grass from encroaching on these areas and gives your lawn a polished, well-maintained look. Make it a habit to edge your lawn every time you mow, and remove any grass clippings or debris from the edges to maintain a tidy appearance.

This Black & Decker Edgehog from Target has a 12-amp high torque motor and three blade position options to get around corners or fussy areas of landscaping.

11. Create a pet bathroom

If you're taking all this time and care over your lawn, the last thing you want is for it be spoiled — literally — by your pets. 

Jeremy says, "Cat or dog urine can lead to dead grass and brown patches, plus during the summer you may want to be able to walk or lay in your grass without worrying about what you might step in."

Create a designated doggy bathroom area using gravel, mulch, or artificial turf to minimize damage to your lawn. Train your pets to use this area by taking them to the spot consistently and rewarding them when they go there. This practice helps reduce urine spots on your grass, which can cause yellow or brown patches due to the high nitrogen content.

Jeremy adds, "By sectioning off a small section of your yard as a dedicated pet bathroom, and training them to only use that area, you can keep your lawn much healthier."

If your dog or cat does its business before you can lead them to the dedicated spot, clear up solids quickly and pour fresh water over the area to disperse the organic material and protect your lawn.

Meet our experts

By following these 11 professional lawn care tips, you can create and maintain a vibrant, healthy lawn that thrives for many seasons to come.

Next, learn how to prepare your grass for hot weather. 

Learning how to kill weeds in your lawn according to the pros will help you settle on the most suited and convenient option for you, all the while knowing all four are effective.

In this guide, our lawn care experts delve into the four ways you can kill or remove weeds from your lawn, including tips on manual, chemical, and preventative measures.

Whether you choose one of our tried and tested best weed killers, or dig out your gardening gloves to banish weeds and beautify your lawn, the choice is yours.

How to kill weeds in your lawn in four easy steps

Avoiding lawn mowing mistakes will reduce the opportunity for weeds to set up shop in the first place. But, if these pesky, hardy, and unwanted plants have reared their heads, our experts have advised on the options available to you for killing them and banishing them for good.

Where our experts have suggested products, we have curated highly-rated matching picks from trusted retailers to help you spruce your lawn right up.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

1. Manual removal

Get your kneepads and gloves ready — it's time to head outside and start digging. This option is pretty straight forward but will require time, elbow grease and perseverance. You might also benefit from a couple of specific tools.

Steve Sylva, of premier landscaping company, Steve’s Services, says, "For manual weed removal, pulling weeds after a rain shower is exceptionally effective since the soil is softer, making root extraction easier."

He continues, "Tools like a hand weeder or a garden fork can expedite the process. Consistent weeding every two weeks ensures that new weeds do not get a chance to establish deeply rooted systems."

We recommend the 4.7 star rated Fiskars Garden Weeder on Amazon, which has seen 10,000 units sold in the last month alone, is made from durable and rust-resistant materials, and comes loaded with an ergonomic grip to reduce blistering and discomfort.

Pavel Khaykin, of Pavel Buys Houses adds that the frequency you pull weeds up will vary. "It's generally recommended to pull weeds as soon as you spot them to prevent them from spreading. Keep an eye out for aggressive weeds that can quickly take over, such as bindweed or quackgrass."

Ryan Farley, CEO of LawnStarter explains that weeds are opportunistic and whilst they can grow in most places. they often prefer fertile, moist locations.

He says, "You'll still find certain weeds in dry areas too. Like regular plants, they can also be annuals, biennials, and perennials. This impacts how often they reproduce and how easily they can be managed. Annual weeds are the most common. They sprout, grow, flower, spread seeds, and die in less than 12 months."

This includes weeds like crabgrass, goosegrass, and ragweed. Luckily, they are the easiest type to get rid of due to their shallow roots.

Ryan adds, "You just have to learn their life cycle, and you can prevent or treat them effectively."

2. Herbicides

You can let chemicals designed for the job do the majority of the heavy lifting for you by employing a broadleaf weed killer that will target most common weeds and kill them off at the root over the course of a week or two. This will protect your grass and target only weeds.

Steve says, "When it comes to chemical solutions, I highly recommend using Spectracide Weed Stop For Lawns, which is available at Walmart. It targets broadleaf weeds without harming your grass if used precisely according to instructions."

"Apply this in early mornings or late evenings when wind conditions are calm to avoid drift. Usually, repeating the application every four to six weeks can help tackle stubborn weeds," he adds.

Once you've had a blast of this and waited the appropriate time as per the manufacturer's instructions, you can scope out which weeds have survived and either pull them out manually, or find a product specific to kill that type of weed.

You might find this process needs to be repeated annually as seeds from your weeds may have dispersed before your treatment or removal, resulting in new plants down the line. Consistency in application is key to eradicating weeds over the longer term.

Kenny Kwiatkowski, the creator of the GRASSHOLE System, adds, "Pre-emergent herbicides like corn gluten meal are great for preventing weed seeds from germinating. Timing is critical with this method — apply it early in the growing season before weeds begin to sprout. This natural approach not only prevents weeds but also enriches the soil with nitrogen."

Try a bag of Preen Natural Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer from Lowe's, made from 100% corn meal gluten, and sprinkle it around your lawn, fruit and vegetable patches every four to six weeks for best results. It's worth knowing it's been rated five stars by happy customers.

The other option is using a granular feed.

Bryan Clayton, CEO of Your GreenPal explains, "Granular weed and feed is granular fertilizer that is coated with weed killer. You want to apply it to a wet yard so the weed killer sticks to the foliage. Granular weed and feed (such as the Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed3 on Amazon covers 5000 square feet and has 30,000+ reviews and an average of 4.3 stars) has a two-in-one effect and it works great if apply correctly."

The key to effective application, Bryan says, is not tossing it out any old time. "You have to do it early in the morning when there’s dew on the grass," he says. "That moisture helps the granules stick to the weed leaves, which then absorbs the chemical and knocks them dead."

If you want to give a liquid pre-emergent herbicide a go, Ryan says it can work much more quickly and be applied more precisely.

He says, "You can usually use smaller quantities because of that precision. Granular types, on the other hand, are usually less expensive and are pretty easy to spread. Overall, I prefer liquid. You want to make sure to look for one that is specifically designed for your grass type."

If you don’t pay attention to the which grass type it's for, the herbicide can cause significant damage to your lawn.

3. Maintain your lawn

Weeds are opportunistic plants that will take advantage of patchy, dying lawn or areas suffering scalping (when the grass has been cut too low), as well as lawn fungus. One way of getting rid of weeds is taking away the opportunity for its seeds to land and grow.

Seed patches of lawn that have lost grass volume or coverage so new grass grows instead of weeds,or replace empty patches with new healthy turf. In the meantime, deal with the reason your lawn is dying off by getting clued up on lawn mowing mistakes.

Kenny explains, "Regular lawn care practices such as aeration and overseeding are also essential. Aeration allows water, air, and nutrients to reach the roots more effectively, promoting a healthy lawn that’s more resilient to weeds. Overseeding helps fill in thin spots, creating a thicker lawn that leaves little room for weeds to establish."

Mowing the grass in extreme heat or cutting it more than a third of its height at a time can damage it, leaving the area open to weeds.

4. Other solutions

Matthew Wilson, gardening expert at handygardeners.com says, "Some of the most effective methods of controlling weeds involve using physical techniques."

He recommends trying:

• Mulching: Place heavy layers of organic material such as grass or straw on flower beds and garden areas to prevent weeds from getting any sunlight. The mulch should not be placed directly on the stems or roots of the plants to avoid rotting.
• Material: Use wood chips or straw as organic mulch since it is environmental friendly and promotes the growth of soil micro organisms.
• Thickness: Spread 2-3 inches of mulch over the surface of the beds and surrounding areas.

A natural solution to your woes may be vinegar. Ryan explains, "Vinegar is the only weed killer I use at home. While we'll often spray weed killer, fertilizer, and pesticides on our clients' lawns, it's something I try to stay away from as much as possible."

Instead, he relies on pulling weeds by hand and a mixture of vinegar, salt, and water for those stubborn weeds that just keep coming back. "Simply put the mixture in a spray bottle and spray it directly on the plant you want to get rid of," he explains.

Meet our experts

To get ahead of the weed seeds that are laying in wait for a bare patch of lawn to sprout up from, learn when to start mowing a lawn in spring, summer lawn care tips, and how to scarify a lawn.

Spring cleaning is in full swing, and you can't exclude lawn care from the to-do list. Even the smallest patches of greenery require plenty of TLC — take it from Chip Gaines. 

The Fixer-Upper star, Magnolia co-founder, and Bobcat ambassador speaks to Real Homes about assessing what to tackle, streamlining the process, and of course, having a little fun along the way. 

Once you've determined when to start mowing a lawn in spring, allow Chip's tips to send you in the proper direction. 

Chip Gaines' tips for spring lawn care

Regardless of backyard size or location, Chip's first piece of lawn care advice is to gauge what needs to be taken care of, that way you'll know early on what equipment you'll need to tackle specific projects. (The best small lawn mowers, edgers, rakes, etc.) 

From there, have a look to see whether there has been any damage during the cold-weather months. Perhaps you'll need to level a garden after animals were tunneling during the winter. Maybe you'll need to put down extra seeding in bare areas. Whatever the case might be, don't neglect the proper care needed to make your space thrive.

Then, one of the major ways to start preparing a lawn for spring is to aerate the soil so that leftover debris is discarded and your drainage system remains intact. He insists that all outdoor spaces can benefit from this process, even the little ones. 

Chip, who recently partnered with  Bobcat, is accustomed to using tractors and other large pieces of equipment to take care of his acreage in Waco, Texas, but for those who are working with less terrain, here's how to get the process going, according to the pro himself. 

What is the best way to go about cleaning up a small backyard space ahead of spring? 

Early spring is all about prepping your yard for the summer. That means taking a rake (or rake attachment on your mower) to the lawn to clean up dead grass and make space for new, green blades to grow. Make sure to do this when the ground is nice and dry so you don’t inadvertently make divots or rows in the wet soil. Follow that up with aerating and overseeding your lawn so it's ready for the summer sunshine to do its thing. 

(Psst: our expert-backed tips for how to mow a lawn and how to seed a lawn will also help during this process.) 

What equipment do you recommend for those with small backyards?

Compact excavators, mini-track loaders, and small articulated loaders are specifically designed to navigate narrow access points and tackle a wide variety of projects in confined workspaces. These machines are designed to minimize ground disturbance and their smaller size allows for easy maneuverability. If you don’t have a regular need for them, you can also rent compact equipment. 

You recommend starting smart. When it’s time to call it quits with the warm weather, how do you properly prepare your backyard so that it doesn’t get damaged during the winter?

Keeping your lawn well-maintained during the growing season will help set you up for success later on. In the fall, make sure to remove leaves that can smother the grass, winterize your irrigation system to prevent damage from freezing temperatures, and fertilize your lawn to help strengthen your turf and give it a head start in the spring. This application can catalyze one last frenzy of root growth and really give your plants some staying power through the cold months.

What to keep in mind...

Chip tells Bobcat reps: "When I keep my mind set on the thrill of the discovery — what it’s all going to look like or what I’ll get to learn on the other side — it’s a whole lot more natural to love the work itself."

Want more insight into keeping your grass green and healthy? We spoke to experts about the mowing mistakes to avoid at all costs, so take note before venturing out for some clipping. 

Whether you have a garden, or not, we can all appreciate the outdoors. Breathing in the fresh air, taking a walk, or being surrounded by nature is a simple solution when we’re not feeling 100%. It’s true: Green spaces have huge benefits for our physical and mental health — they’re a place of relaxation and solitude. 

Which is why it’s important to take care of our outdoor space. Be it a large acre of land, a shared patch of greenery, or a back garden with flower beds and more, having a lush lawn will do wonders for our well-being. And this is everything behind GreenThumb’s current Share the Lawn Love campaign. Where hose pipe bans and droughts have made it difficult to maintain the most healthy of lawns, the UK’s most recommended lawn treatment company has made it its mission to bring outdoor lovers the greenery they deserve. 

Here’s everything you need to know about how GreenThumb can help you (and others) achieve more than just the garden aesthetic you’ve been longing for.

What is GreenThumb’s Share The Lawn Love campaign? 

The importance of outdoor spaces has dramatically changed over the last few years. From making more of an effort to spend as much time outside as possible to more of us wanting our own garden, there’s certainly been a rise in prioritizing the outside. And if anyone can see this, it’s GreenThumb. 

But new hose pipe bans, increased water bills, and droughts in the UK have put a noticeable barrier between the eager gardener and the enjoyment of tending to their lawn. Knowing the considerable benefits customers could have, when it comes to not only being in but looking after (and out on) their gardens, GreenThumb has decided to provide its Standard Programme to over 160 lawns across the UK, including individuals, families, and local organizations nominated by GreenThumb customers. 

The 3 key benefits of having a healthy, green lawn 

Thinking about getting Astro Turf? Saving some money on your energy bill may seem like a good enough reason to invest in fake grass that doesn't need so much attention. But honestly, having a luscious, real lawn has benefits that go beyond a good-looking garden. 

1. Wellbeing

Put simply: oxygen. According to the Lawn Institute, 150 sqm2 of natural grass can produce enough oxygen to support four or more people, each and every day. That’s a fair bit more than Astro Turf or gravel can provide. Just like taking a deep breath can help reduce stress and induce calm when you need it, being surrounded by nature can provide you with enough fresh air to boost your mood and reduce your heart rate.  

2. Wildlife

Managing the health of a lawn, whether that's diseases or pests, creates a positive space for wildlife. GreenThumb's lawn treatments contain important elements required to keep your green space in good order. And, in doing so, they generate oxygen and nutrients for wildlife to enjoy.

3. The environment

Forget investing in synthetic greenery that does no justice to the environment. GreenThumb aims to provide treatments that are truly environmentally-minded. Offering a completely organic program is on the horizon, but for now, fertilisers are kept to the most environmentally friendly solution possible. 

And besides, GreenThumb’s Oasis treatment lessens the need to water a lawn by up to 80%.

If that’s not all you needed to know to get yourself looking after your lawn ASAP, we don’t know what is.

Want to know how to scarify a lawn? The process of scarification is essential to proper lawn care and the long-term health of your grass. To scarify a lawn means to remove and thatch (dead turf), moss, and debris that grows in lawns over time. Scarifying a lawn regularly improves lateral grass growth, so it is an important task to get right.

While the best lawn mower will ensure your grass is neatly trimmed, scarifying it will give you the best-looking lawn each season. Here's how to do it, according to lawn and gardening experts. 

How to scarify a lawn

While the actual scarification can be done in an afternoon (unless your lawn is huge), you do need to prepare the lawn in advance by mowing it nice and short. If you already keep your lawn trim, this won't be a problem, but you can harm your grass if you cut too much in one go, so you may need to start prepping to scarify some weeks in advance. 

You should have most of the tools you need for the job as part of your regular yard maintenance kit, but if you have lots of lawns, it can be worth investing in a scarifying machine to speed up the job.

1. Cut the grass

The first step is always to cut the grass with your lawn mower. You have to do this gradually. 

Robin Antill, the Director at 1st Choice Leisure Buildings says, 'bring the height down for several weeks prior to scarification. You need the grass to really be short and dry in order to perform it effectively. The grass will be cut shorter without being shocked, and greater air circulation will enable the grass to dry out before being scarified.'

2. Get rid of weeds

Next, get down to thorough weeding, removing any larger weeds first. 'Unless there are weeds on your lawn, pull them out by hand rather than using a weedkiller. After
scarifying, weedkillers will prevent germination, thus we advise employing
a plant puller (can be bought on Amazon) to get rid of the majority of weed seeds from the grass.' explains Antill.

3. Use a hand scarifier or rake to scarify

'To lift out any curls or moss from your grass when using a rake, you must use pressure throughout the entire task', recommends Antil. You will need strong leather gloves to accomplish this task to prevent damaging the skin on your hands. 

If you have mobility issues and don't want the potential strain on your back from using a rake, you can buy a mechanical lawn scarifier. According to Antill, 'a motorized scarifier works much more quickly and easily. Both an electric and a gasoline scarifier will remove any thatch or mosses from your grass, but they work mechanically rather than with your human might.

'Most of the time, these machines include height adjustments, and you should make these changes after turning the machine off and setting it down on such a hard surface. It's simpler to run the device for a few meters and then make little changes just so the debris is removed without ripping up significant portions of your lawn.'

Remember that the scarification process should be done on dry grass.

4. Soak the lawn overnight

This step is important because scarification is typically done before reseeding, and lawn seed takes better to well-hydrated turf. Melody Estes, a Landscape Design Gardening Supervisor from Maine and a consultant at The Project Girl, recommends applying 'half an inch of water over the top of your lawn and letting it soak in overnight, preferably with some rain falling on it.'

For this reason, it's not recommended to scarify a lawn during extremely dry weather as your lawn will be too dry. 

When is the best time to scarify a lawn? 

The key is to let your lawn establish itself before you scarify it, according to Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love. Yamaguchi advises that 'if your lawn is newly planted, you want to wait at least a year to scarify it so that it can establish. After the lawn has become established, aim to scarify it once every one to two years.'

The best time of year to scarify a lawn? Either in the spring or fall. 'If you choose to do it in the fall, make sure to do it with plenty of time to spare before the first frost.'

Should you scarify a lawn that's wet or dry?

The answer's actually neither. Yamaguchi says that 'you don’t want to scarify your lawn if it’s wet or dry. Instead, do it when it is just slightly moist, which is usually best achieved when the lawn gets watered around two days before scarifying it. If the grass is noticeably wet or entirely dry, your efforts will likely cause much more damage than good.'

This is why scarifying your lawn in the spring or fall is best -your lawn won't get parched like it likely will in the summer, but it won't get waterlogged either, which is likely during heavy winter rains. 

Scarifying a lawn is an easy job, but you must do it annually to keep your lawn in good health. Something to put in your gardening calendar right now. 

Meet our lawn experts

If you're exploring grass alternatives for lawns, the chances are that your yard doesn't allow for it, you don't like the look of turf, or enjoy the upkeep.

Although beloved by many as a space to relax and play with children and pets, grass lawns have their dark side: they are environmentally problematic because of the constant watering requirement. Not to mention you may not be a huge fan of getting out your lawnmower.

 Fortunately, there are many cool low-maintenance garden ideas that are super contemporary no matter how big or small your outdoor space may be.

Why look for grass alternatives for lawns?

Lawns are child-friendly, wildlife havens, soft areas where you can sunbathe, and design-wise a necessary ‘neutral space’, but you can’t use them year-round and they need care, including spiking and scarifying, mowing, natural weed control, and watering. In fact, in drought-prone places, a lawn is not a suitable covering at all as it will need a lot of water to survive.

There are, however, a number of alternatives. Some are wildlife-friendly substitutes; others can cut maintenance time in half. All offer exciting garden design opportunities.  

What we definitely don't want to see is everyone resorting to fake alternatives like plastic grass. Artificial lawn is not the low-maintenance solution it is pitched as and the last thing we want is to be adding more plastic to our properties. So if you hate mowing the lawn but also love biodiversity, we have plenty of options for you below.

Who best to confirm that an alternative to grass can be a good option than a lawn care professional? CEO of Lawn Love Jeremy Yamaguchi says: "Though my company is centered on lawn care, I definitely acknowledge that there are more eco-friendly ways to adorn your front or backyard. If you want something beautiful that will increase your home's value and curb appeal but won't be as detrimental to the environment, consider planting local flora and using mulch. Make your own compost and be mindful of how much water you're using."

1. Thyme

Planting a low-growing variety of thyme can be an excellent grass alternative for lawns. Creeping thyme grows only a few inches tall and is hardwearing, making it a great option for high-traffic areas. 

It's also soft rather than scratchy underfoot, unlike edible thyme varieties. Finally, it's a perennial and will come back every year, producing bee-friendly fragrant flowers every summer. You can grab a two-pack of thyme plants from Walmart to get started.

2. Succulents

Succulents are a beautiful option if you want your grass-free area to be more decorative. It's pretty easy to care for succulents and they come in a variety of colors and shapes.

All they need is a sunny spot. You can learn how to propagate succulents to grow some more in another area of your yard or in a container. Of course, if you used succulents as an alternative to grass, you won't be able to plant them in high-traffic areas as they'll get trampled on so use them in lonely corners for a decorative element.

3. Xeriscaping

Xeriscaping is a great alternative to grass in dryer climates, although the landscaping technique can also be used in wetter regions also, provided you use appropriate plants. 

In its most basic form, xeriscaping is spaced out planting in a gravel-covered yard. It looks smart and modern and is very low-maintenance. 

4. Japanese-inspired garden

If you don't quite want the pared-back look of a xeriscaped yard but want minimalist landscaping with a few good-looking shrubs and trees, you should explore Japanese garden ideas. 

Japanese gardens are traditionally low on grass, with schemes that emphasize individual plants. Even just one central tree such as an acer or cherry surrounded by gravel can be enough. 

5. Rock garden

Small gardens are actually excellent candidates for grass-free designs; in a large yard, it's more tempting to fill the space with grass. 

However, if your outdoor space is really tiny — think so small that you don't even have room to plant a small tree — you could consider planting a rock garden instead of using a lawn for your entire space. 

Rock gardens typically include rocks and small Alpine plants that take up very little space but look colorful and impactful. 

6. Raised bed garden

If you're looking for an alternative to grass that's productive as well as good-looking, consider starting a kitchen garden. 

Raised garden beds are easy to build yourself or buy and you'll have fresh homegrown produce to supplement your diet. 

Jeremy Yamaguchi adds, "No, you can't live off of a personal garden, but it will provide supplemental nutrition for you and your family and cut down on how much you need to buy from the store."

You can begin your garden with these FOYUEE Galvanized Raised Garden Beds available on Amazon with over 6k reviews.

7. Meadow

An increasingly popular option, a meadow works well as part of a wildlife garden and can be created by simply allowing existing lawn grass to grow longer than usual and cutting it only once or twice in summer. 

On a large scale, this is the most sensible option, since replacing the lawn with anything else will be prohibitively expensive – or back-breaking work. Leaving existing grass to grow also means you can revert to a close-cropped sward again relatively easily, by trimming the length low enough to use one of the best lawnmowers.

Of course, not all the lawn has to be left to grow long. Areas near the house can be cut as normal, with paths made with a mower through longer grass in areas that aren’t used regularly.

8. Gravel

Gravel is an ideal lawn alternative, being easy to use and suitable for both traditional and contemporary garden designs. However, replacing a large lawn in the garden of a suburban semi with a sea of gravel is rather boring, and impractical for families with children. 

Where gravel really proves useful is in the front garden, where a tiny lawn can be a pain to mow. It’s permeable, and the crunch factor makes for a useful security measure, too. Plants are essential for interest, though, so always aim for a healthy ratio of two-thirds plants to one-third gravel.

This black gravel available on Amazon looks cool and contemporary.

There are numerous different gravels available, so choose gravel that is subtle and natural-looking and won’t detract from any planting. Water-worn weathered flint and cockleshells are favorites, but your choice should be guided by local stone, and other hardscape materials in the garden, and the house. Choose a diameter of 5-20mm so that it’s easy to walk on – rounded gravels are better for children, and larger angular gravels are best where cats are a problem.

9. Mulch

Ideal for dark corners under trees where even shade-tolerant types of grass struggle to grow well, mulch feels more at home, although simple water-worn gravels work too. Choose natural stripped pine bark or similar and, for color and texture, add plants in areas not used for seating. Easy-care woodlanders such as wood spurge (Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae), Siberian bugloss (Brunnera), white wood aster (Aster divaricatus), dusky cranesbill (Geranium phaeum) and lungwort (Pulmonaria) are tough and need no maintenance once established. 

With mulch, you can simply spread an 8-10cm layer over the soil, but it will need topping up every other year. Alternatively, use landscape fabric to keep weeds down, make slits with a knife and plant through.

You can stock up on natural pine bark mulch from Amazon.

10. Ground cover plants

For areas where daily usage isn’t important, fragrant chamomile lawns are popular but require a sunny spot and free-draining soil. They also go a little patchy in wet summers, and for this reason, scented thyme lawns are preferable, which need similar conditions and also don’t tolerate heavy foot traffic, but are generally a lot tougher and more reliable. 

If the soil is prepared properly, thyme grows fast, too. A spring planting of small coffee cup-sized plants spaced 15-25cm apart will see a pleasing effect the following year, and in 18 months, the carpet should be at its best. 

If you go for low-growing varieties such as Thymus serpyllum ‘Snowdrift’ or ‘Pink Chintz’, you shouldn’t need to trim them either. But if you want to keep the plants bushy, trim after flowering with shears, or if you have a lawn mower with a height setting, use this carefully. For a thyme tapestry effect, plant each variety in large teardrop-shaped drifts and mix them up throughout the design.

If you don’t need to walk on parts of the lawn at all, seas of weed-smothering ground cover plants such as bugle (Ajuga), pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), self-heal (Prunella), and even ivy works well. White clover is a possible option, too, and useful to feed both the bees and your soil. If you want to go to extremes, rip up the lawn in favor of one giant ‘open’ border instead, where there’s room for multi-layered mixed plantings. 

This isn’t an easy-care option, however, and some knowledge of planting design is important, unless you hire an experienced garden designer. Sedum mats, commonly used on green or living roofs, are good ground cover, if given enough sun. Whichever plants you choose, paths made from paving, gravel, or timber sleepers are essential throughout, so you don’t crush the planting when you walk.

11. Put down patio paving

Want to create a patio or outdoor living area in a small courtyard garden? Opt for paving for a smart finish that's durable, too. Choose a paving material that flatters the style, period and materials of your property, but also one that complements that of the flooring indoors if you want to create an indoor outdoor link. 

A small, traditional patio will benefit from stone paving blocks in sandstone or limestone in honey or brown shades; more modern properties can experiment with quartz, versatile porcelain, or even concrete. Avoid using multiple materials in a small space, such as a courtyard garden, to prevent it from looking too busy.

Eyal Pasternak, a real estate expert and CEO of Liberty House Buying Group, advises that laying a patio yourself "is the simplest and least expensive option. You can save a ton of money by doing this." Laying a brick patio yourself is the easiest option, achievable on a weekend. 

12. Decking

If you have a small outdoor space that's an awkward shape or on a sloping site, installing decking is a speedy way to create a usable surface, perfect for outdoor lounging and dining. There are so many cool decking ideas around for inspiration, and a ton of decking materials to choose from including hardwoods and no-maintenance composite wood lookalikes for budget-friendly alternatives.

FAQs

What is the best alternative to grass? 

The best alternative to grass is the one that is best suited to the size, aspect, and general style of your yard. Smaller yards will benefit from a rock or Japanese garden, while larger yards may look better with a gravel and flowering planting scheme. There aren't any hard and fast rules here. If you're not sure what will work best for you, hire a professional landscape designer for a day to help you if you have some spare budget.

What is the cheapest alternative to grass?

Most alternatives to grass are inexpensive, especially compared with having to maintain a lawn and buying a lawn mower. Plants, gravel, rocks, and mulch are all inexpensive materials you can use in a number of ways to create a grassless yard. If you go down the kitchen garden option, you also won't be out of pocket as raised beds are cheap to build. 

Summer lawn care is a must if you want your neighbors to be envious of your backyard. Whether you've invited friends round for a few cocktails, or are hosting a barbecue – no one wants to look out onto a dehydrated grassplot or derelict ground.

But we get it: lawn care in summer is the last thing you want to do. It's hot, the kids are bugging you for a couple of dollars for the ice cream truck, and you'd rather crack open a beer than dig out your best lawn mower out of the garage. So, instead of breaking out the big tools immediately, let us show you how to tend to your yard over time. That way, you won't have to hire expensive pros, and you'll save hours of time too.

Note that spring gardening 'rules' differ from summer lawn care, so it's important that you respect the varying levels of humidity and heat, and how these conditions will affect how you treat your lawn.

But, if you're totally new to lawn maintenance, take a look at our gardening for beginners guide. While swapping real grass for faux foliage might seem the easier way out, so many experts are calling for a ban on artificial grass (and we are too!)

1. Soften hard soil areas with soap

It can be so disappointing to see dead grass in your backyard. But just because your soil has dried out, don't lose hope on a healthy lawn. Take steps to turn this barren landscape into a fertile foundation with dish soap... Yes really. Pick from one of the best washing-up liquids just to be safe.

Expert house flipper, John Maxim, who has fixed and flipped over $500 million of international real estate including outdoor spaces, says: 'Use a spray bottle or a good garden hose attachment to soften hardened rough patches with Dawn or ivory soap and water.'

'This will penetrate the soil easier, allowing your trouble patch to get water easier. Warning this isn't ideal for all types of grasses and if the soap bubbles then quickly spray away with only water.'

2. Spot treat grassy weeds before they spread

'If you spot a troublesome weed before it takes hold, you can take steps to kill it or at least keep it from spreading by using pre-emergent herbicides and fertilizers.'

'This will save your lawn's health and prevent the future growth of unwanted plants.'

Shop for the best weed killer or discover how to get rid of weeds naturally with baking soda, Castille soap (which you can easily get on Amazon), or salt/vinegar solution.

Maxim is a fan of treating your grassplot with a condiment cocktail. He advises that you use: 'one gallon of vinegar to a cup of salt and about a tablespoon of dish soap! Spray directly to the weed. Try to avoid putting around plants and green grassy areas as salt doesn't mix well for thriving spaces.'

3. Grow heat-tolerant grass

Wait, what? There's more than one type of grass? Yep. By choosing the right type of grass, you have a better chance of keeping a healthier-looking lawn that won't go turn to straw in the heat.

'A good way to take care of your lawn is by growing grass that is heat-tolerant, ' says Trevor Lively, president of Blue Jay Irrigation company.

'Fertilize warm-season grass on your lawn in the early summer, when the temperature is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit or less. Your grass will be more heat and drought-resistant if you fertilize at the correct time.'

'You run the danger of scorching your lawn if you apply too much. Because grass is already stressed during these months, use caution while applying it. Use a fertilizer designed specifically for summer feedings and follow the manufacturer's directions to the letter. If your grass is cool-season, don't fertilize it in the summer. Fertilizing cool-season grass is best done in the spring and fall.'

4. Overseed your lawn the right way

Overseeding is summer lawn care 101. Essentially what you're doing is sowing new grass seed into your existing lawn to essentially top it up and fill in any bald spots or patches.

'Winter can be unkind to lawns making it look thin or patchy, so summer is a great time to repair these damaged areas by overseeding.' says Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People.

'If you want to try your hand at overseeding, there are a few steps to follow. Firstly, make sure you take the time to prep the lawn, this includes weeding the lawn and removing any debris such as boulders or stones.' 

'Next, it’s time to scarify [remove surface thatch or moss from a lawn] and fertilize the lawn with a quick-release fertilizer. Lastly, moisten the soil and sprinkle the seed, and water and then roll the lawn. The final step is to sit back and enjoy your luscious green lawn.'

If you want to know how to seed a lawn, you can grow your knowledge with our guide.

5. Sharpen your lawn mower blades

You wouldn't expect your hairstylist to use a blunt pair of scissors at the salon, so why treat your lawn this way? If you're finding that your lawn isn't as verdant as it should be, it might be down to the garden equipment you're using. 

Whether you've got a large or small lawn mower, make sure to check the machine's shearers, taking extra care not to hurt yourself. And, if you're not sure, it's worth looking at our step-by-step guide on how to sharpen lawn mower blades.

'Having sharp blades on the lawn mower will help them give you a closer and more even cut.' says Jen Stark, founder of Happy DIY Home

'In turn, you can wait longer between lawn cutting sessions. You also lower the risk of damaging the grass and leaving brown, patchy areas.'

6. Don't trim your lawn too short

It can be all-too-tempting to get your brand new lawn mower out of the box and get a little trigger happy with that trim. So before you go all Edward Scissorhands on your grass, consider leaving it a little longer than you would usually, and learn how to mow a lawn like a pro.

Our very own Lindsey Davis, editor-in-chief, Real Homes explains that: 'Longer grass shades itself well, and protects it root system better so it reduces moisture evaporation.'

And, Thomas Monson, owner of Monson Lawn & Landscaping concurs. He says: 'Most lawns would benefit from being left just a little higher than you would normally cut them. Cutting your lawn too low can damage the grass and lead to a “patchy” or uneven-looking lawn. By leaving it taller, your lawn will look greener and fluffier over the long term.'

While McIlroy says: 'We advise you to begin mowing your lawn during spring, meaning that your lawn should be at a good height. Aim for a height of 10-15mm for fine, ornamental lawns or a slightly longer 25-40mm for more hardwearing, family -friendly lawns.'

'With rising temperatures, and especially if there is still rain, grass is likely to grow at a much faster rate. This is thanks to the perfect growth conditions that summer brings: heat, light and moisture. After a winter and spring where our lawns required less mowing, mid summer is a time where lawns may need to be mowed more often, potentially once or twice a week. At the end of summer, as growth slows less mowing will be required.'

7. Hydrate your lawn at the right time of day

While water is the essence of life, there's a fine balance between too little or too much. So give your lawn the best chance of thriving by making sure that it has ample time to absorb it over the course of the day.

'Watering flowers and grass in the morning gives them a chance to drink before it evaporates. If you can't, do it later in the day, but not too late, as the water needs to dry before nightfall.' says Alison Jones, assistant editor, Real Homes.

By giving your lawn the correct amount of H2O, you can save money on your utility bills and respect the water levels in your community as one expect explains:

'It's important to water correctly and save water all year long, but it's even more important when hot and dry weather causes water shortages or even droughts,' says  Daniel Akins, writer and editor at Theyardable.

'During the summer, it's important to water your grass early in the morning so that the water will stay on the grass for longer. If your lawn is suffering from drought, a quick irrigation cycle in the afternoon will help cool the plant down.'

'The best time to do this is between 4 and 6 pm, so the lawn can dry out before the sun goes down. This will stop the spread of disease. The easiest way to water your grass at the right time and in the right amount is with a sprinkler irrigation system. Consider putting in a smart sprinkler system that can be used with regular sprinklers and controlled by a smart device.'

The RAINPOINT WiFi sprinkler timer we've seen on Amazon is cheaper than you think and can be connected to your smartphone so you don't have to stand outside. 

8. But don't drown your lawn

'Overwatering your lawn is a common mistake for any homeowner trying to mitigate the risk of their lawn dying due to heat,' says Brett Larkin, founder of Uplifted Yoga, who likes to take his practice outside when the weather permits.

'Make sure you are using heavy amounts of water, but not watering as frequently as you would in the less hot months. Higher amounts of water will help penetrate the topsoil and nourish your lawn's deeper roots, but more frequent watering can actually drown the air pockets in the soil, making it impossible for things to grow.'

And McIlroy says: 'Summer (hopefully) means less rain and more sun, this means we need to take the time to make sure our lawns are plenty hydrated.'

'It’s a good idea to water grass once a week if it’s not raining, but be careful not to flood the grass. In extreme summer heat a good guide is 20 liters of water a week for every 1 meter square of lawn.'

9. Save water by using rain to water your lawn

As we've already mentioned, there are a number of reasons why you might not be able to access the level of water you need for your lawn. But if your water company has put a restriction or hosepipe ban in place, or you're conscious of your consumption – turn to Mother Nature.

'Use rainwater to water your lawn, if possible.' says Mohammad Ahmed, interior designer and founder of The Home Guidance.

'I know it's not always easy to collect rainwater and use it on your lawn, but it can really save a lot of water. Another tip is to use a rain barrel to capture and store rainwater for later use.'

There are lots of different rain barrels to buy on Amazon, including decorative containers which will work with a chic garden scheme.

10. Dispose of your lawn trimmings

Mowing your lawn is one thing, but if you don't clear away the snippets and slithers, you could be wasting your time it seems...

'If you don't do a final rake of your cut grass, the excess debris could get in the way of overall growth,' says Larkin.

Lawn clippings can block your grass from receiving proper nutrients from the sun, which is essential for lawn growth and overall plant health. Not to mention, a lawn covered in grass clippings doesn't look the best! By focusing on overall lawn care during the summer, you're also helping maintain a good aesthetic.'

However, leaving not cleaning up your clippings isn't the end of the world it seems. Evan Ebert, lawn mower expert and founder of The Riding LawnMower blog says: 'When you do mow, it's not necessary to rake up the clippings.'

'These clippings make great fertilizer and save you a lot of time while doing yard work. However, be sure that the clippings aren't too long. If they suffocate the grass underneath, it won't do your lawn any good.'

11. Fertilize your lawn

A healthy balanced diet is key to looking and feeling our best, and the same can be said for grass too. When we're lacking in energy, vitamins and supplements go a long way to fill a nutritional gap. And fertilizer can do the same to work wonders on a wilted plot.

'Use fertilizer to make your turf look greener and healthier.' says a spokesperson for Gardenbuildingsdirect.co.uk.

'Nature sometimes struggles to replenish some essential nutrients that your soil needs, and because of that, it can be helpful to use fertilizers. Fertilizing encourages your plants and grass to grow to their full potential.'

'Ensure that the soil (not air) temperature is about 12 degrees Celcius (54F), and make sure to ask for professional advice if you're not sure which is the correct fertilizer to use.'

12. Tackle outdoor pests that can damage your lawn

It's tough enough finding the time to weed, sow and mow your lawn (checking the weather forecast on your phone too). But add vermin and bugs into the mix, and you've got the perfect storm for a less-than-perfect turf. 

'Pests and insects such as Japanese beetles, June bugs, or European chafers that munch on your grass, producing withering and bare spots are pretty bad for your lawn,' says Lively.

'Take necessary action as soon as possible. Japanese beetles will feed on your grass and deposit eggs, which will hatch into grubs and begin munching on your grass if left untreated. Apply a preventative grub control product to get ahead of the game. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.'

If you're not sure what bugs might be making lunch plans on your lawn, we've got a comprehensive guide on how to identify bugs. And, if you've spotted strong-smelling pee in your backyard  (that isn't from a cat or dog), find out how to deter foxes, as they're the most likely offender.

'Foxes often leave noticeable patches on the grass where they urinate. This happens because their urine is high in nitrogen, which can be useful in small amounts, but not so much if the animal insists on using the same spot again and again,' says Paul Dawson, managing director, Rolawn.

If your lawn is under fertilized, dark green, faster-growing patches of grass usually appear where the animal has urinated. In a well-fed lawn, the urine can scorch the grass leaving dead patches. These can often be distinguished by the presence of a darker green ring around the dead area, where the grass has grown better due to the increased nitrogen level but not scorched.'

13. Let your lawn breathe

Aerating your lawn at least once a year is an essential part of your lawn care in summer. It ensures your lawn drains well (which means water doesn't sit) and the soil doesn't compact. But when your grass is already outside, how do you, er... air it out even more?

Put simply, you'll need to poke holes in the ground to allow air, water, and other nutrients to easily penetrate into the ground. Just like a good micro-needling facial.

'Soil can become very dry and hard which can make it difficult for the water to permeate, so it’s important to aerate with either a plug aerator or a spike aerator, which creates holes in the ground allowing water and oxygen to filter through,' says McIlroy.

'You can tell your lawn needs a little extra water if the grass begins to turn yellow or brown.'

14. Don't forget about the rest of your landscape

The key to a beautiful backyard is to make sure everything is tidy. Only making sure that your lawn is manicured will make everything else look messy. For example, if you've gone to the effort of learning how to plant a tree, then you also need to take time to prune and treat disease too.

'Another important part of summer lawn care is taking care of your landscaping,' says Atkins.

'If you take care of your landscaping, it can add depth and value to your home. Most people with lawns only care about their grass and yard, but it can be just as important to take care of your trees and shrubs. Your lawn's landscape is made up of these plants, and it's important to keep them healthy too.'

It can take a little time to get used to using a hedge trimmer, but once you're comfortable handling it, why not use your creative license to give your shrubs a different silhouette?

If you don't have bushes in your backyard, there are alternative ideas for garden edging or garden landscaping ideas you could look into to give your exterior space added interest and wow factor.

15. Keep off the grass

It's not just pets and pests that can damage your lawn. While you might be wondering how to get rid of moles and other garden diggers, you might be the culprit for creating patches in your grass.

Cooling off with the best paddling pool or hot tub might feel like an innocent pastime. However, you could be harming your grass with this summertime staple. Instead of putting your inflatable kiddie pool or jacuzzi on your patch of grass, why not create an Insta-worthy deck idea instead?

What to do if your lawn still isn't looking lush

If your grass is looking less than satisfactory (even after trying the above), you could turn to the pros for a little expert help.

Garden makeover costs and quotations can be overwhelming at first, so the best thing to do is to take a step back and consider only paying for essential work that you don't feel confident doing yourself.

What should I put on my lawn in the summer?

'If grass loses its vigor and freshness between late spring and late summer (often May to August), repeat the application of spring or summer lawn fertilizer or apply 15g per sq m (½oz per sq. yd) sulfate of ammonia mixed with four times its weight dry soil,' says RHS.

'Mixing with soil ensures even distribution and avoids scorching the grass. Apply this mixture in cool, moist conditions and lightly water it. As an organic alternative, use chicken manure pellets. Repeat fertilizer application a third time if needed six to eight weeks later.'

For those of us living in small spaces, a heavy-duty mower is probably overkill — in price, noise, and size. But there are plenty of compact mowers designed to maintain smaller spaces.

While some small lawnmowers are gas-powered, this environmentally friendly one works on two batteries. Some small lawnmowers offer different mulching options so that you can feed your lawn as you mow.

The Worx WG779.E Power Share on Amazon is pretty amazing. Our reviewer loved this lawn mower and found it so easy to use to trim her unruly but small yard. This foldable model is great for people who lack the space to store a larger machine. And, even if you have a large yard, it can be used to mow up to 1/8 acre / 5000 sq ft.

The best small lawn mower you can buy

At only 29 lbs, the Worx Power Share 40-Volt 14-in Mower is easy to move around, and even lighter when you remove the batteries for storage and transit. Equipped with patented torque technology, you can increase the power of this mower to Turbo if you’re cutting thick grass (but remember, this will use up more battery). 

For regular use, we found Eco mode was competent, especially for regular trims. The cutting base is 14 inches across and six height adjustments range between 2.5 to 3.5 inches with an easy-to-use lever for height adjustments. You can either mulch your grass or bag up to .85 bushels before a ‘full bag indicator’ alert notifies you it’s time to empty the sack.

To get started, simply insert the safety button, depress then pull the handle lever and you’re ready to mow. The Worx lawnmower runs on two 20V 4.0 Ah batteries. Power Share advertises that this mower can mow 5,000 square feet with just one charge. However, this depends on various factors like the thickness or height of your grass. Just keep an eye on the battery meter to know when you need to juice up and keep spares on charge. We found it capable of doing a good half hour or more of mowing before it was time to recharge which is plenty for the average yard.

Rated 5 put of 5 stars in our Worx WG779E 40V Cordless Lawn Mower review

How to choose a lawn mower for your small yard

If you've opted for a small lawn mower then it is likely your main concerns will be around how much power and ease of use you can get into a compact package. Historically, electric lawn mowers, (including cordless battery-powered models) were quite big and heavy to accommodate large battery packs for optimal run time. Luckily, technology has advanced and better-designed batteries, and brushless motors mean you get greater run time in a smaller package. If you choose a corded model, check its cord is long enough to reach around your lawn. 

Next, consider the cutting width. Most lawnmowers range from 12–21 inches, and the higher this number — the faster you'll be able to mow your lawn. Larger models are more likely to offer edge-to-edge cutting, albeit heavier. If you are concerned about lifting — perhaps due to a bad back — take the narrower model and be prepared for a couple of extra runs of your yard. 

And, if storage is your main reason for buying the best small lawn mower, look at foldable options. Many compact lawnmowers have a foldaway handle and a collapsible grass box. Some mulching mowers have no grass box at all.

Tips for getting the most from your small lawn mower

This advice will help you extend the life of your small lawn mower. 

1. Energy reserve: If you purchase a gas-powered lawn mower, top it up with fuel before each use and keep a spare tank of gas in your garage or shed. Buying a battery-powered lawn mower? Consider buying a backup battery. The harder a battery-powered lawn mower has to work (like a lawn where the grass is higher or thicker) — the quicker it will die. If your lawnmower runs out of charge mid-task — just pop in the spare.
2. Never mow a wet lawn: If your lawn is wet from morning dew or rain — wait until it's dry before you mow the lawn. For one, wet turf is heavier so the lawn mower won’t be able to cut the lawn to the best of its ability. Dry grass stands straight up, making it easier to cut. Secondly, wet grass clippings can damage the mower.
3. Clean the lawn mower deck: Every once in a while, turn the lawn mower over and clean under the deck. Grass and grime can build up here, and on the blades, making your lawn mower less effective over time. If you have a gas-powered mower, make sure the gas tank is empty and the spark plug wire is disconnected if you decide to clean the deck with your best garden hose. If you have an electric leaf blower (like this one from Black + Decker on Amazon) it's worth using it before and after mowing.
4. Be careful what you mow over: Before mowing, pick up sticks and any debris that could ruin your lawn mower blades. Try avoiding stumps and vines as these can damage or wrap around the blades.
5. Grass clippings are good for the yard: Although grass clippings left on a yard can be unsightly — they're a natural fertilizer. A mulching feature on a lawn mower is a good option because it breaks down organic matter, helping it to decompose. That said, bagging clippings — especially weeds or grass that are high — could be helpful at certain times.

How we review small lawn mowers

FAQs

Can I use a trimmer instead of a lawn mower?

It may be tempting to use a string trimmer instead of investing in the best small lawnmower. But trust us, it's very hard work, and you won't get an even trim no matter how hard you try. Although, if your lawn is very small, a hand-push reel lawnmower may suffice. 

Or, forgo maintenance altogether with a no-mow wildflower meadow that bees and small creatures will love.

To keep your turf in great shape, you might need to know how to sharpen lawnmower blades. Mowing is an important element in ensuring a lawn stays looking its best and, for this, lawnmower blades need to be sharp.

When the blades become blunter, they’ll tear rather than cut which will compromise the appearance of the lawn and can introduce disease. Dull blades also make the job of mowing lengthier, stopping you getting on with other tasks, or just sitting back and admiring the green and healthy lawn.

Even if you have the best lawnmower, you can see why keeping the blades in top shape is essential. So, our guide has the details you need on how to sharpen lawnmower blades while staying safe, and we’ve asked the experts to share their advice, too.

How to sharpen lawnmower blades

Before you mow your lawn, check the blades are clean, free from debris and looking sharp. If not, you will need to brush them down and set to sharpening.

Sharpening lawnmower blades is an important task. ‘A sharpened blade will produce a quick, clean and consistent cut, leaving your lawn looking beautiful, healthy and pristine,’ says Lawnmower Larry.

‘Dull blades can result in a patchy job with an uneven height. Grass can appear frayed and damaged and ruin your aesthetic. An unsharpened blade can even harm your grass and expose it to infection and fungal growth.’

You could get a pro to do the job, but DIYing can work just fine, so long as you follow the rules on safety and have the right tooks. This is how to sharpen lawnmower blades.

1. Take safety precautions 

It is vital to work safely when sharpening lawnmower blade. ‘A sturdy pair of gloves, and eye and/or ear protection are necessary to avoid getting cut or burned by sparks when sharpening,’ says turfgrass and horticulture science specialist Eric De Boer PhD of Simple Lawn Solutions.

Wear long sleeves and cover your legs for the same reasons.

2. Remove the spark plug or battery

There’s another task to perform to prevent accidents. ‘Before attempting to remove the blade, the spark plug should be removed to avoid the risk of the machine accidentally starting,’ say the experts at Mowers Online. ‘In the case of a battery powered machine the battery should be removed.’ As should any safety keys.

3. Remove the blade 

Tip the mower onto its side, air filter and carburetor side upwards.

Next, take a moment to mark the blade. ‘Make sure to mark the bottom side of your mower blade before removing it,’ says Toby Schulz of Lawn.com.au. ‘If you reinstall the blade upside-down, it won’t be able to cut grass properly.’

Take further precautions to prevent injury. ‘An important safety tool can be a block of wood to place under your mower deck between the deck and blade to prohibit the blade from spinning as you are removing it for sharpening,‘ says Eric De Boer. ‘Injuries can happen to exposed skin or eyes from sharpening tools or the mower blade itself.’

Note that removal may be tricky. ‘If it’s been a while since you’ve removed the blade, some WD-40 or other lubricant may be helpful to break the bolt free that holds your blade in place,’ says Eric.

Check the manufacturer’s instructions on removing the blade – generally you will just need to loosen a bolt or a nut using a wrench. ‘You should always use protective gloves when working with sharp objects,’ says Andrew Porwol, owner of Garden Centre Shopping.

Before doing anything else, take a good look at the blade. ‘Once the blade is removed, check to make sure that it is not cracked or bent, in which case it would be better to replace it,’ says Eric.

4. Sharpen the lawnmower blade by hand

There is a choice of ways to sharpen a lawnmower blade. Whichever you choose, a blade should be made ‘butter-knife’ sharp. 

A lawnmower blade can be sharpened by hand using a 10in mill bastard file. Clamp it in a vise to hold it securely first. ‘Run the file across the mower blade in one direction at the same angle as the original cutting blade angle, using enough pressure to remove nicks and burrs,’ says Eric De Boer.

5. Sharpen a lawnmower blade with a machine

As an alternative to sharpening a lawnmower blade by hand, you can use a machine or attachment for your power tools. This can be the best way to sharpen lawnmower blades provided you have experience and wear protective clothing.

‘The best and easiest way to sharpen lawnmower blades is by using an angle grinder and a flap disk or by using a drill-powered blade sharpener,’ says Eric De Boer. ‘The idea is to remove any nicks, burrs, or rough spots along the top and bottom of the blade edge without making the blade come to a sharp pointy edge. A thinly sharpened, super-sharp blade is easier to get nicked and becomes dull much faster.’

6. Check the balance of the lawnmower blade

Before you reinstall the blade into the lawnmower, check its balance. ‘After sharpening, hang the blade from a nail and check for proper balance,’ says Eric De Boer. ‘If the blade falls to one side, continue grinding the heavier side until the blade is balanced.’

Once it’s balanced, the blade can be reinstalled.

Can I sharpen my lawnmower blades without taking them off?

Lawnmower blades should not be sharpened without taking them off. ‘Blades should always be removed from the mower before sharpening,’ say the experts from Mowers Online. ‘It is much more difficult to access the blade whilst on the machine and the chances of the blade slipping and causing injury are far higher.’

How often should mower blades be sharpened?

How often lawnmower blades need to be sharpened depends on how often the mower is used. ‘In general it is a good idea to sharpen your mower blade every 25 to 50 hours of use or at least twice every season,’ suggests Eric De Boer.

Putting time aside for spring lawn care is essential if you want beautiful, healthy grass on your lawn throughout the spring and summer months. Yes, it's true that grass is resilient, but your lawn still needs annual maintenance if it is to truly thrive. 

While investing in the best lawn mower will make sure that your lawn is neat during the active growth season, you shouldn't skip early spring prep and care. Lawn experts explain why early spring is such an important time for lawns – and the main steps to keeping it healthy. 

Why is spring an important time for your lawn?

Larry Yeates, a landscape gardener turned hobbyist blogger and the founder of Lawnmower Larry, explains that 'early spring is the perfect time to put your gloves on and get out in the garden. If done right, a little sweat equity can go a long way, maximizing your garden's chance to really thrive during the growing season.'

So, armed with the best gardening tools and a few hours of your spare time over a couple of spring weekends, here are the most important jobs to do when preparing a lawn for spring. 

The top spring lawn care steps

1. Clear away winter waste

Cleaning your yard of debris is 'one of the more tedious lawn-preparation steps', admits Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love. Yet doing this is essential before you attempt any of the other spring lawn care steps. Over the winter, 'your yard likely became full of fallen pine needles, leaves, pine cones, twigs/branches, and more. While clearing all of this out may not be that difficult, it can be incredibly
time-consuming, especially if you have a large yard. So, start early and do
small-medium amounts at a time. This makes it much more manageable and is
better for your back (and your sanity!).'

Larry Yeates adds that 'getting rid of all the unsightly winter waste will bring much-needed light and warmth to your lawn, the key ingredient to trigger spring growth.' In other words, clearing out your lawn for spring is about more than just aesthetics but is actually important to your lawn health.

As a bare minimum, rake away any leaves and debris and consider composting it so you can recycle the nutrients. Removing weeds and fungus is also a key step to making your lawn look beautiful again, ensuring the soil's nutrients are reserved only for your soon-to-be gorgeous green grass rather than any uninvited invaders.'

2. Aerate the soil

Ideally, aerating should be done in winter, but if you haven't done it yet, 'do it NOW!' urges Yeates. This is an essential spring lawn care step because 'after winter, your soil is like to be highly compacted, a result of the rainfall and snow, the weight of debris on the surface, and the low levels of root growth during the cold months.'

Skip aerating and you risk drainage issues, water pooling 'in any small troughs in an uneven lawn, drowning these areas while leaving the higher ground with very little moisture', which will lead to weak grassroots. 

Aerating the lawn is very easy to do using aeration shoes, a lawn corer, or a good old pitchfork.

Top tip: For the best results, you should be looking to penetrate at least three inches deep and no more than three inches apart.

3. Revive dead patches

Dead patches are inevitable, especially after an overly dry summer and/or unusually wet winter. Depending on what the year had had in store for your lawn, you may see patches that 'look brown and lackluster or have turned into a muddy mess where grass once grew. Even the rest of the lawn might be looking a little thin and not the vibrant emerald green you long for.'

Don't panic – you can bring these patches back to life. According to Yeates, you have two options here:

• Cut the dead patch back to bare soil and roll on new turf, or
• Remove the dead grass, rake back to expose and loosen the soil and plant new grass seed

Either way, 'you should be looking to match your existing lawn species. Proper establishment also requires that you ensure turf/seed-to-soil contact and water the new arrivals immediately. Application of a quality, phosphorous-rich fertilizer to promote root growth is highly recommended.'

4. Evaluate your soil's condition

This is a very important step if you don't know what soil type you have. As Yeates stresses, 'poor soil quality will inhibit grass growth. Your main concerns here are pH level and Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium levels (NPK). Your soil pH should ideally be between 6 and 7.5 and should have a high level of all three of the primary nutrients.'

Fortunately, testing your soil is actually pretty easy – 'a simple soil test bought from your local nursery can quickly assess the situation. Add lime to increase pH, sulfur to decrease pH, and soil enhancer rich in the N, P, or K ingredient you are short on to remedy nutrient issues.' If you prefer to buy online, we like how speedy Luster Leaf's rapidtest test kit is for lawns, it comes with plant guidance depending on your soil's pH also.

5. Top dress the soil

Top dressing involves enriching the existing soil in your lawn with a mixture that closely resembles the soil you already have. Usually, a good balance of sand, soil, and loam works well, especially after aeration. 

Noah James, an expert landscaping business owner at Liberty Lawn Garden, recommends applying 'a half-inch layer of top dressing to the lawn in order to improve the soil conditions. The better the soil, the better the lawn.' Bear in mind that top dressing should always be done when the lawn is dry.

6. Overseed

If your whole lawn took a bit of beating last year, then learning how to seed a lawn is a good idea. In a nutshell, you'll want to mow your lawn back to 'about an inch tall and then rake over the lawn with a spring tine rake to open up the soil beneath. Overseed at half the recommended rate for bare soil and again, water immediately. This time, a high-nitrogen fertilizer is recommended.'

7. Be patient

This may sound obvious, but do give your lawn time to recover after you've completed your main spring lawn care steps. James advises allowing 'a couple of weeks for the lawn to respond to the much-needed TLC it just received.' Don't panic if nothing much happens at first, especially if spring is slow to get going where you live. Once the days and your soil get warmer, your lawn will begin flourishing. 

8. Avoid foot traffic

It is important to assist this recovery by keeping off the lawn for those crucial first couple of weeks. According to Yeates, this includes 'pets, children, cars and neighbors. Anything and anyone. Your best bet may be to set up a small perimeter fence around the lawn to stop any unwanted trampling, particularly in any areas that need some extra support.'

9. Mulch and compost

Fertilizers are great, but there's nothing for healthy soil – and a healthy lawn – like good old-fashioned DIY mulching and composting. Not sure what to use if you're just learning how to make compost? Yeates advises that 'any organic waste from winter can be recycled in a compost bin to be returned to your lawn as a natural fertilizer by raking it over the top. You can also use a mulching mower to distribute finely ground grass clippings back onto your lawn, returning the nutrients to the roots that grew them!'

What is the most important spring lawn care step?

If you do just one thing for your lawn this spring, make sure you aerate. A lawn needs good drainage for grass root to develop well, so you really don't want to skip this. But, of course, it's impossible to do this step without first clearing debris off your lawn, so consider steps one and two essential when preparing a lawn for spring.

Monty Don's September lawn care tips are just what you need if your lawn is showing the strain of summer use. September can be a wonderful time in the garden. For Monty Don, it's one of his 'favourite times in the garden', not least thanks to soft autumnal light and the opportunity to take stock of the year's harvest.

But September is also the perfect time to give your lawn some much-needed TLC, according to Monty. While summer is the perfect time to learn how to mow a lawn, early autumn is the time to do some maintenance and repair any damage done by heavy summer use. These are the essential September jobs Monty recommends for lawns in his blog. 

1. Repair patchy grass areas

Even with light use, after a whole summer, you're likely to start seeing bare patches on your lawn. According to Monty, 'if it is just a worn area of thin grass', the repair method is quite simple: 'rake away all thatch and moss and remove all weeds and thinly scatter grass seed, watering well and keeping it damp.' Grass is a fast-growing plant and will 'germinate and grow in days'. However, Monty stresses that it's very important not to mow a lawn that's been filled in this way for at least a month. 

'But I'll end up with patches of overgrown grass', you may wonder. The solution, says Monty, is to clip any 'unsightly' bits with garden shears. The best gardening tools are sometimes the more traditional ones, especially when you're just tending to one area.

2. Reseed your whole lawn if necessary

If you have multiple areas that have worn thin, it may be time to learn how to seed a lawn. Monty's main tip is to 'clean the edges with a sharp spade, fork it over to remove any compaction and either scatter with seed or cut a piece of turf to fit, making sure that the edges are butted tightly against the existing grass.' This works either over a large area or over the whole lawn. 

Again, Monty emphasizes that it's very important not to walk on or mow this fresh turf or reseeded area – and you'll have to resist the temptation to mow even longer. 'Depending on the weather, this may mean leaving it uncut until next spring', Monty writes. It may feel odd to put away the best lawn mower you bought recently so early in the season, but your grass will thank you for it. 

3. Aerate to improve your lawn

Finally, Monty recommends aerating the lawn as part of autumn gardening. He says doing this task is good 'even if your lawn has come through this summer unscathed'. A small lawn can be aerated with a garden fork – simply work the tines 'into the ground at 12 inch intervals.' Alternatively, 'for a larger lawn, hire a rolling hollow-tine or slitter. Ideally this is followed by working sand into the holes they create with a stiff brush.' 

4. Thatch the lawn

Thatching is the process of removing any dead organic matter that builds up around the roots of the grass. Typically these are the roots and stems of weeds and rhizomes, which are root-like stems of plants. Monty's top tip for thatching is characteristically hands-on and involves giving the lawn 'a thorough scratch with a wire rake'. Don't worry if the lawn ends up looking 'a little threadbare' once you're done thatching – 'next spring your lawn will be rejuvenated for this autumnal working over.'

Gardening guru Monty Don has shared a new tip for maintaining a healthy garden. Before you give your lawnmower its first outing since before winter, it’s worth noting his advice. Don’s comments around mowing the lawn raised some eyebrows, but we’re wondering if he might be right.

It’s bad news if you’ve been planning to get your lawn in perfect condition for spring, as Monty is encouraging us to leave the grass on our lawns well alone. ‘Cutting grass burns lots of fossil fuel,’ he tells Radio Times. The Gardener’s World host said it also ‘makes a filthy noise, and is about the most injurious thing you can do to wildlife.’

‘Whereas letting grass grow, which is, after all, a pretty passive thing to do, is probably the single most effective thing you can do in any garden of any size to encourage particularly insect life, but also small mammals, invertebrates, reptiles,' he continues.

While he advocates letting nature do its thing, Monty admits that he enjoys walking on a lawn with bare feet as much ‘as the next person.' But he argued that 'making a lawn that is pure grass without any foreign invading plants in there, making sure it's stripy and neat' is a male obsession.

He suggested meticulous care taken over lawns is linked with 'controlling rather than embracing'. We can see where he’s coming from. Welcoming a variety of plants to grow in our back gardens could be a way to create interest as well as giving wildlife a chance to thrive.

A compromise could be made in larger gardens by creating a small area dedicated to the cultivation of habitats for wildlife, where plants can grow freely. This way a neatly mown area for entertaining in the summer can be enjoyed, while leaving some of the space to grow naturally. 

Similarly, Alan Titchmarsh recently shared the garden idea of making a feature of a mown path of grass, cutting through longer grass to create an enchanting feature. Perhaps 2021 will see a leaning towards working with nature rather than against it when it comes to our lawns.

'People are noticing that it's a bit more flooded or it's a bit warmer, or the little flower whose name you don't know is flowering earlier than you remember it did five years ago,' Monty said.

• See also: Build a garden room or outdoor office space – the outbuildings guide

'The net effect of that is to say, yes, this is happening in my life, on my doorstep, and in itself that's not a big deal - but that's the point,' he continued.

'It's all these billions of not-big-deals that are making up the biggest deal that's ever faced mankind.'

We've tested the  Flymo EasiLife 200 robotic lawn mower – and were impressed. If you’re anything like us, mowing the lawn is one of those jobs that always gets bumped to the bottom of the to-do list, along with washing the car and cleaning out the fridge. Of course, that means it’s always a mad rush to get it looking shipshape whenever we have visitors coming round (along with the rest of the house, natch). So the idea of having a lawn that’s always looking its best, whenever you want to enjoy it, is very appealing indeed. 

The Flymo Easilife 200 aims to do just that. It’s the company’s new entry-level robot lawn mower, replacing the popular 1200R, and is aimed at lawns of up to 200m2. If you have a larger space, there are models in the same range that will accommodate up to 350m2 and 500m2, but you’ll have to pay a little more for the pleasure. 

As with any robot lawn mower, there is some initial set up work to do, which does take some time and a fair bit of patience. However, once it’s all done, you can pretty much leave this mower to its own devices from there on in - simply set up your schedule either on the mower itself or via its app, and it’ll do the rest for you. 

We lived with the Flymo Easilife 200 for over a month to see how it fared on our 60m2 lawn. Read on for our experience and whether having it around really meant we could take mowing off our to-do list for good.

See more of the best lawn mowers 2020 in our buyer's guide.

Flymo Easilife 200 product specs

• Lawn coverage: 200m2
• Cutting length: 2cm to 5cm
• Noise level: 58dB
• Weight: 7.3kg
• Connectivity: Bluetooth
• Charging time: 60 minutes
• Waterproof to IPX4
• 100m2 of wire included/150 pegs
• 10m low voltage cable included
• Two-year warranty

Who will the Flymo Easilife 200 suit?

As with any robot lawn mower, the Easilife 200 is aimed at people who either have the money to spend on nice-to-haves or keen gardeners who are struggling to get out to push the lawn mower around the garden as easily these days.

It’s a considerable investment compared with a standard lawn mower, but it does make life a lot easier for those that can either afford it or will really benefit from it.

First impressions

You might be surprised by the size of the Easilife 200 - it’s actually pretty compact when you consider all that is going on in there. This is obviously helped by the fact it has no grass collector like your standard lawn mower might have (more on that shortly), and of course there are no handles.

It moves around on three wheels, has three cutting blades in charge of the mowing and a lift-up flap that hides all the on-board controls.

At just 7kg, it’s pretty lightweight too - that’s half the weight of our normal lawn mower. Hopefully you won’t need to be picking it up too much anyway, but for general maintenance you will need to turn it over to ensure the blades are clean once a week or so.

Setup and installation

For many, the idea of a robot lawn mower is a little bit daunting due to the setup involved. Considering I’m someone who messes around with technology most days, even this was a new one on me, so I wasn’t sure what to expect.

The fact is, it’s not particularly complicated but it is time consuming and a bit of a faff. You’ll need some patience, and to set aside a couple of hours to get started, depending on the size and shape of your garden. It took me two hours for the initial set up, but I did have to revisit it a couple of times to fix a couple of issues in the first week or so.

It comes with a quick start guide and a manual, though the latter isn’t the easiest to understand. The quick start guide covers most eventualities though, and I also went on to Flymo’s YouTube channel to watch the setup video there, which was helpful.

To start with you’ll need power, ideally from an outdoor power socket as you want to keep it plugged in all the time. Flymo includes 10m of low-voltage cable to run from your socket to wherever you want your robot mower to live , but we needed to buy a bit more to make it reach. Flymo sells additional lengths to suit your needs and doesn’t recommend using extension cables, so measuring ahead of time to get prepared is a good idea.

The Flymo’s charging port is designed to sit wherever is convenient, be that a corner or on a straight of your lawn. The only requirements are that it has a metre clearance in front of it and 30cm either side. You’ll also want it on as flat a piece of ground as possible, so avoid slopes and uneven ground as much as you can.

Now you can start installing the wires, and there are two types - the boundary wire, which goes all the way around your mowing area, and the guide wire, which cuts across your garden to help the mower always have a path home.

Flymo includes 100m2 of wire for this job, so plenty to cover the space that this model is intended for.

You’ll want to start at the charging port, leaving a decent length of wire to connect up later, and start moving around the border of your garden. Place pegs at regular intervals to secure it and ensure the wire is as flush to the ground as possible, to prevent any damage from the lawn mower. We experienced a couple of issues in the first few mows, so if in doubt, use more pegs.

We went for the simple installation of pegging the wire on top of the grass but if you’re having your garden re-done, you can have the wire buried underneath the turf for a smarter look.

You’ll need to take into account any obstacles in your garden you’d rather the Flymo avoid. It will bump into solid objects, like our toddler’s swing and our washing line, and move on without issue, but if you have a flower bed in the middle of your lawn, you’ll want to loop the boundary wire around it so the Flymo knows to steer clear.

You’ll also need to leave a certain amount of space away from any borders, walls and drops, to ensure the mower knows its boundaries and won’t get damaged trying to get places it shouldn’t. This does mean some manual tidying is required to finish the job, but it’s fairly minimal.

Flymo recommends you sketch out your garden beforehand so you can plan exactly what needs to be done before you start, which was actually a big help.

This also helps you to work out where to lay the guide wire. This will run straight from the charging port and cross section your garden, joining into the boundary wire at the other end of your lawn. It basically means that should the mower ever get confused or lost mid-mow, it has a lifeline that will guide it directly back to its base for a breather.

Once you’ve got all the wires you need in place, you’ll need to connect both ends of the boundary wire and the guide wire into the back of the charging port - a green light will tell you that all is working as it should.

Now you’ll be prompted to charge the mower, as well as set things up like time, date and a security PIN code to prevent theft. You can also select the grass length you’ll want using the manual dial, with lengths between 2 to 5cm, at half centrimetre intervals.

Don’t forget to download the Flymo Easilife app, which connects your phone to your mower via Bluetooth. It’s a fairly simple app but it does the majority of what you’ll need. You can see what it’s up to, make adjustments to its schedule and override a schedule to do a spontaneous mow. You will have to be within Bluetooth range though, so you can’t set it going when you’re not in the house.

How easy is the Flymo EasiLife 200 robotic lawn mower to use?

Once you’ve got past the setup process, the Easilife 200 is very easy to use, because you really have very little involvement in its operation. You’ll need to give the blades their recommended weekly clean with a dry brush, but other than that, the Easilife 200 should really carry on its business on its own.

Of course, you’ll need to be on hand to rectify any issues that the mower comes across, which will likely be in the first few mows if they are installation related.

Our lawn is on the uneven side, and despite putting in more than the recommended amount of pegs, we still experienced a break in the wire about a week in. Thankfully, a number of wire connectors are included in the box, so it was just a case of fixing the two ends together with one of those rather than re-laying the whole thing. A relief to say the least! Still it’s worth double checking your wires every now and then for any wires that have lifted, which could cause an issue.

Of course, random issues will no doubt crop up every now and then too, but we have to say we’ve experienced very few. We did have one error where the mower was unable to dock due to an apparent obstruction, but when we went to check on it, there was nothing in its path at all. We docked it manually and it was fine thereafter.

If you’ve taken the time to set up the mower well, issues should really be few and far between. However, we did find it annoying for those few times that we did encounter them, that error reports are not pushed to your phone as a notification. You have to open up the app to see any issues, meaning the mower might have been idle for some time before you realise.

Speaking of the app, that is really easy to use too. There aren’t loads and loads of menu options to wade through, which helps - just the home screen that shows the current status of the Flymo, an area to view, set and change the schedule, an option to put it into holiday mode, a place to check previous error messages and the option to start an override mow.

There’s also a help section for troubleshooting or checking the manual, in case you’ve misplaced the paper copy it comes with.

Cutting results

The Flymo Easilife 200 is different to our regular mower in that it doesn’t collect any grass cuttings, and uses a process called mulching instead.

That basically means that it cuts the grass and leaves the cuttings on the lawn, which in turn works as a natural fertiliser to improve the grass quality.

If you’re thinking this will leave unsightly clumps of grass sitting on top of your nicely cut lawn, it doesn’t. The mower works in a random path and will continue to cut and re-cut the clippings every time it passes over them. This makes them very fine indeed and you’ll only notice they’re there if you run your hand over the grass.

You will find the random path programming takes a lot longer to complete than you would running the lawn mower over the grass yourself, but since you can set it to mow whenever you want, the time it takes is pretty irrelevant.

We set it to mow in the early morning so its cut for the day was already complete by the time we were downstairs, meaning it didn’t interrupt any garden time we wanted to enjoy. At 58dB, it’s so quiet it doesn’t disturb us or our neighbours either, so you really can run it whenever you want.

Whatever you decide works for you, you can schedule it within the app, or you can use the scheduling wizard to get a recommendation based on your lawn size. You can’t select a lawn size smaller than 100m2 though, and for this, it recommends two hours a day, which we found a little too much for what our lawn needed.

We activated LawnSense, which is Flymo’s automated mowing feature that learns your lawn as it mows. It says it will adjust its schedule to suit your lawn growth and also to avoid any adverse weather conditions, such as rain.

We did see it skip rainy days as promised but otherwise it continued to run daily, which we weren’t convinced our lawn needed. After a couple of weeks, we decided to manually adjust the schedule ourselves to just a couple of times a week, and have found this works best for our lawn.

The result is that our grass has never looked so consistently neat and tidy, though of course you will still need to take the time to neaten up the borders and edges the Flymo can’t get to with a strimmer.

Battery life is pretty impressive too. For larger lawns, the Flymo will need to take itself back to the dock to recharge before completing the job, but it manages the two hours scheduled daily for my lawn in one outing, even returning with some battery to spare.

Additional features

The Flymo Easilife 200 is adaptable to most garden designs, but if yours is a bit more complicated, you will need some extra consideration during setup (not to mention, a bit more time).

Our garden is relatively straightforward, with two sections of grass separated by a concrete path. If yours is the same, you can treat it as a single patch of grass and the Easilife 200 will roll between the two sections without issue.

However, if your garden is a little more complicated - perhaps you have different levels of lawn separated by steps, for example - you’ll need to set up a secondary area instead.

This involves you manually moving the Easilife 200 between areas once it has done cutting the first, so there’s a bit more of your involvement required to get the job done.

In terms of weatherproofing, the Flymo can handle a standard British summer without issue, thanks to being waterproof rated to IPX4. The company does suggest you avoid running it during a thunderstorm though, and recommends disconnecting the charging port to protect against damage to the mower by any potential lightning strikes.

Finally there is FrostSense, which will recognise when the temperature drops before 5 degrees and prevent the mower from operating as well as a feature called Spot Cut.

The latter can only be selected on the mower itself, rather than via the app, and allows you to lift the Flymo to an area that the mower may have missed or that needs more attention. The mower will then work outwards in a circular motion to ensure the area has been covered before it reverts back to complete a standard mow.

How does the Flymo Easilife 200 rate online?

Online reviews for the Easilife 200 are very positive indeed, including the user reviews on Amazon, which give it 4.5 stars and praise its ease of use and performance.

We’d agree with that. Though the set up is time consuming and at times a little frustrating, once it’s done, it’s done. Now we barely know it’s there. We rarely see it in action and it never requires our input, yet our grass has never looked so consistently neat and tidy. That makes it entirely worthwhile in our book.

The verdict

At £650, the Easylife 200 will be a considerable purchase for most, so it’s important to know you’ll get the most out of its benefits before you spend the cash.

Keen gardeners probably need not apply, but those who struggle with mobility or who don’t have the time or inclination to spend time keeping their garden looking its best are likely to find this a very welcome addition indeed.

You’ll need the patience to get it set up properly, and those with less complicated lawn designs will get the most of the hands-off approach it has been designed to offer, but if you’ve been intrigued about adding a robot lawnmower into your gardening arsenal, the Flymo Easilife 200 is a great machine to invest in.

Read more:

• Best electric lawn mowers
• Best small lawn mowers.

Autumn lawn care should always be on your agenda, but this year it might need a little TLC more than ever. After all, it got sodden at the beginning of 2020. Then, for many of us, there was plenty of heat and little rain over the summer, taking its toll on the green stuff. Likely, too, your lawn saw plenty of use when we were all at home for much of the time with kids playing on it even more than usual, and grown-ups spending extra time in the garden.

Take the opportunity to give your lawn some attention now, before temperatures drop and growth stops for the season. We’ve suggested the jobs you will need to do, and those you might have to, depending on the state it’s in. We’ve checked in on the advice of one of our favourite gardeners and broadcasters, Alan Titchmarsh, too, and we’re sharing his know-how. And if you need more tips or inspiration for your outdoor space, check out our dedicated garden ideas page. 

• Need the best lawn mower for starters? We can help!

1. Scarify your lawn

The term sounds odd to new gardeners, but scarifying is actually raking the lawn. Alan Titchmarsh offered his advice on how to get it right on Gardeners’ World. Why do it? Well, Alan explains that it does several things. Scarifying lets in light and air. It also gets rid of the moss and dead grass, otherwise known as thatch. 

You’ll need a wire-tooth, or springbok, rake to do the job, Alan says, and you’ll need to rake vigorously to remove the thatch. It’s hard work, but if it’s a job you can’t do manually – or if the chore is daunting because of the size of your lawn – you can invest in an electric or petrol-driven lawn scarifier or lawn raker, Alan advises. Don’t want to buy a machine just for this job? Don’t worry, you can hire one instead.

Once you’re done, you can put what you’ve raked up (or the machine has collected for you) on to the compost heap, Alan says. The result of your labour? You’ve put energy into your lawn by taking the rubbish out of it, our gardening guru reveals. Nice work!

2. Improve lawn drainage

You can prepare your lawn for whatever may come whether that’s times of drought or excess rain by aerating it in the areas that get most wear and tear. The parts that see the most use, including where the kids play, can get compacted. 

You can do the job with a garden fork. Spike the ground to a depth of about 10cm then move the fork backwards and forwards to create air channels at intervals of around 10 to 15cm. Once you’re done, scatter top dressing, which you can buy from garden centres, across the lawn. Work it in to the grass using the back of a rake.

3. Feed the lawn

A tired lawn will benefit from an autumn feed. Make sure what you use for this is an autumn fertiliser – a spring one will encourage growth and you don’t want to do that at this time of year. An autumn fertiliser will instead encourage strong roots. 

4. Repair the lawn

If your lawn is patchy, you can re-seed it or turf the bare parts in autumn. Miss your chance and the weeds will get themselves in there instead, so it’s definitely worth doing. This is a job best tackled when the weather is damp and cool. 

If you’re going to use seed, cut out the problem turf, then lift it. Fork over the soil below, then add compost or top soil. Scatter the grass seed on, then cover it with some more compost or top soil to avoid the birds eating it and undoing all your work. Water using a fine rose on your watering can.

Prefer to use turf? Follow the same procedure as above until the area is forked over. Then cut the new turf to size and position it. Use a sandy top dressing in the gap where it meets the existing grass. Use a rake to press the edges of the turf and water as above.

More garden ideas:

• How to seed a lawn
• Best gardening tools: 8 top buys for garden maintenance
• How to plant spring bulbs

The Worx Landroid M500 robot lawn mower might be for you, if you have a large lawn and not enough time to maintain it as regularly as you’d like. And, if you have been considering a robot lawn mower for some time, but baffled by the number on the market, then listen up because this may help you decide where to splash your cash.

With the ability to control the mower from an easy-to-use app and the option to schedule how regularly you want to mow the lawn, there is no need for the bulky, corded mower, taking up space in your shed. Working full-time (currently from home), with a toddler and another baby on the way in September, mowing the lawn had become somewhat of an afterthought. So, a machine that did it for me has been a welcome addition to the garden. Plus, it makes the views from my office window a lot nicer! 

This is the first robot lawn mower I’ve tested, so here is the lowdown on how easy it is to set up and use, how effective it is on a multi-level garden and whether the result and convenience are worth the price. Read on to find if a robot lawn mower holds its own agains the best lawn mowers, and whether the Worx Landroid M500 is the one for you.

Worx Landroid M500 (WR141E) specification

• Power type: battery (uses one 20V rechargeable lithium ion2.0Ah battery)
• Battery length: 60mins 
• Charge time: 90mins
• Cutting width: 18cm 
• Cutting height: 30–60mm (with cutting grades in 10mm increments)
• Size: 55.8 x 40.4 x 20.5 cm 
• Weight: 9kg 
• Lawn size: Up to 500m² 
• Operating system: Free Landroid smartphone app, compatible with Android or Apple
• Safety features: Obstacle detection, lift and tilt sensors, alarm function, pin code security 

Who will the Worx Landroid M500 robot lawn mower suit?

Those with lawns up to 500m² who may not have the time to mow it regularly, or who are physically unable to keep on top of their lawn maintenance.  

First impressions

We unboxed the mower and found the body of the mower itself to be sturdy and of good quality. It looks fairly robust and you will either love the bright orange body that makes it easy to spot the mower when it is out and about, or you will find it a bit garish for something that will be permanently out in your garden. It also comes with a base (where it goes to charge) and the perimeter wire that sets the mowable area.

The Worx Landroid M500 comes with a lot of paper – five booklets, plus another one for the anti-collision system sensor. So, with so many manuals, and instructions, you’d expect it to be fairly easy to set up – which unfortunately we found wasn’t the case (more on this later).

Set up and installation

As I am in my last trimester of pregnancy, my partner helped me set the mower up and lay the boundary wire for the first time, (unfortunately not the only time – more on this to come). There is an owner’s manual, installation manual and a 'Get started' guide, so we started with the latter, which is just a series of pictures. 

In my opinion, there is no need for the get started guide as it just mimics the installation manual which is easier to follow, and the simplified picture guide leaves you missing lots of vital information. I also wish the instructions told you to install the app as one of the first steps, as they have a full installation guide on the ‘support’ section, which I found very helpful for troubleshooting, following initial installation.  

Setting up the boundary wire

Both the app and the paper instructions preach that planning is key and it will help avoid timely mistakes. This advice should be taken as gospel, which I found out a couple of hours later. Some of the most important points are that the boundary wire should lay flat to the surface of the lawn, the charging station should be in a completely suitable place and a full inspection should be done of the lawn to identify any obstacles. 

There is one more point listed at the start of the installation guide, which I think should be listed as mandatory and repeated, as I found it was key to a successful set up. This was point ‘1.8’ – mow the grass if it is longer than 10cm and if you want to shorten the height of the grass, do this progressively by adjusting the cutting height in steps. On the first set up, we missed this point, so left the cutting height at 40mm and didn’t mow the grass to start with, as it has been done about two weeks previously.

Firstly, we set up the charging base, which needs to be on flat land, in shade, and within reach of the AC mains. It also needs a straight path in and out of the station, with a certain amount of space either side. Similarly, the boundary wire has to be placed a certain distance from steps, edges and pools, plus you have to think about how steep slopes are. 

To lay the boundary wire and connect it to the charging station, I was sent back to my school electronics lessons, stripping the end of the wire with some scissors, then connecting it to the clamp in the station base. You then set up a circuit round the perimeter of your lawn, placing ground pegs at 80cm intervals. It is important to lay extra pegs where the ground undulates, ensuring the wire is in close contact with the ground at all points. This is also key to a successful set up – something my partner didn’t pay close enough attention to during the initial set up. 

Our lawn is over three levels, with steps down one side, but there is a slope on the opposite side which the mower could access to reach all areas of grass. There is a handy ruler in the box to help set the wire the right distance from steps and edges. 

Getting going 

Once you have laid the wire, you return back to the charging base and repeat the process of stripping the wire and feeding the end into the other clamp. Next, you connect the station to the AC mains socket and if everything is fine, a green LED shows on the base. If there’s any problems with the circuit, a dreaded red LED will show. Luckily, our LED shone green and we moved on to setting up the mower itself. 

Inserting the battery is easy enough but fitting the anti-collision system sensor was a bit more difficult, as I struggled to prise the cover off with a screwdriver, as the pictured instructions in the ‘ACS get started’ guide showed. My partner managed to remove the cover eventually, then you connect the sensor to the relevant components and then screw it into position using an allen key. 

Next the mower has to be left to charge, so you simply place it on the base. Whilst the mower was charging, I downloaded the Landroid app from the Apple store and connected the mower to the Wi-Fi, following instructions on the app. This was very easy, as all you have to do is register your account, either by entering in details or logging in through Facebook or Google, then input the model’s serial number using the QR code found under the rear bonnet of the machine. You then select your Wi-Fi network, ensuring the landroid is in the same router environment as your smartphone. You can purchase a Landroid Radio Link if you find your Wi-Fi doesn’t cover your entire lawn. 

How easy is it to use the Worx Landroid M500 robot lawn mower?

Once you have given the Landroid a bit of time to charge, you can either send it on its way either from the app, or by using the control panel on the top of the machine. On the ‘home’ option of the app, all you need to do is press the play button and like magic, the Landroid M500 starts and informs you that it is ‘mowing’. 

We moved into our house in February this year and I’m ashamed to say, that before then, I had never mowed a lawn before! Our previous house had no grass, so I quite enjoyed mowing our new lawn in neat lines on the few occasions, before the arrival of the robot mower. 

I’m afraid that if you enjoy the aesthetics of beautifully straight lines in your lawn, you will be disappointed by the Landroid’s operation as its movements appear a bit sporadic. It sets off straight, but then as it hits the boundary wire, it then turns at an angle and continues mowing in a straight line, until it hits the boundary wire again. It then continues in this fashion until it gets close to running out of battery or believes it has covered all of your lawn. 

For its first run, it was going well until it ran into a few problems near the edges of the middle level, where the border wall, meets the grass. The wheels seemed to be getting stuck in between, where there is a slight dip, so we had to bring the boundary wire in slightly to fix this and restart the mower. When the mower gets stuck, it displays an error message on the app and you have to restart it from the mower itself, rather than from the app.  

The first run wasn’t a complete success, as it had missed areas of the lawn and it became clear that the ‘cut to edge’ feature couldn’t be used in all areas, as it was on uneven ground, causing the wheels to get stuck. We used the mower again the next day and that’s when we started to run into problems. Within minutes of setting the mower off, I got an error message saying the boundary wire was missing. Upon inspection, the mower had cut straight through the lower boundary wire, so we were forced to use the waterproof boundary wire connectors. The mower comes with two of these and it’s easy enough to fix, although the written installation guide advises using one connector, whereas the app advises using two. 

We used one on the first break, which was lucky as the next time we used the mower, the same thing happened again, but in a different place. We had a few more successful runs, but then on the third break, I decided to relay the wire on just the lower level and largest part of the lawn.  

I reread the instructions and mowed the lawn before installing the wire again – steps my other half had not done thoroughly enough to give the Landroid the best chance. I also ensured that the boundary wire was flat to the ground in every dip, by placing extra pegs where needed. After speaking to my brother-in-law, who has a Flymo robotic lawnmower, he also suggested starting the mower on the highest cut, as Flymo recommend in their instructions. The mower has now been running successfully for two weeks, with no further issues. 

Cutting results

The Worx Landroid M500 boasts that you no longer will have grass clippings to collect. This is because with a regular mowing schedule, it produces very short clippings that don’t need to be raked and lie on top of the lawn, providing the ‘perfect organic nutrient’. It also claims that frequent mowing boosts the density of grass blades and prevents the propagation of weeds.  

Our lawn certainly looks very healthy, even during the recent hot spell. The edges and borders need tidying up, as there is a fence at the bottom of the garden and the mower cannot cut around the posts effectively. There is also a dip into the flower beds, so although the mower gets as close to the edges as it can, some trimming with a strimmer or shears is needed.  

The other impressive thing to note is how quiet the machine is. Our home office is located in the garden and I don’t realise the mower is going, until I either spot it through the window out of the corner of my eye, or it tries to mow over a rogue stick. 

What features and settings does it have?

Some of the technological features of this mower really set it apart from its competitors. It is an IoT (Internet of Things) device, meaning it uses artificial intelligence to get the best results for your lawn. 

Make sure you keep the app updated, as the latest update has some incredible features, including a cute 'Save the hedgehogs' mode, which prevents the mower from operating during the evenings, when hedgehogs might be roaming your lawn.

You can auto schedule the mower and enter in details about the lawn size, just by walking the border. The app can also monitor features such as soil type, grass species and irrigation. Alongside its handy rain sensors and rain delay feature, the mower then outputs a mowing schedule, which you can adapt to set times and days where the mower is not allowed to work, for instance times when kids might be out playing, or even by using ‘party mode’ where the mower suspends its schedule until you disable it, so you can enjoy your BBQ in peace. They have certainly thought about how this mower fits around you rather than the other way round.

You can also set the Landroid to mow just the border a couple of times a week, set up ‘multi-zone’ so your mower spends a defined amount of time in different zones of your lawn and prevent unauthorised people from using your mower by setting up pin code protection. There is the option to operate the mower using voice control and if you’re worried about your mower being stolen, there is the ‘Find My Landroid’ option on the app, where you can remotely lock and track it. 

Finally, you can name your mower – ours is now affectionally called ‘Derek’.

How does the Worx Landroid M500 rate online?

With glowing reviews from a number of websites, users agree that this mower is easy to use once set up properly, saves a lot of time, with great results.  

Some users have experienced the same teething issues as I did, with the machine cutting the boundary wire, or having issues with the mower getting stuck on uneven ground. But all agreed – with a few adjustments to the boundary wire and by using the repair kit – the mower works very well, once set up properly. 

Most reviewers rewarded it 4 to 5 stars. 

How does it compare to other robot lawn mowers?

This is the first robot lawn mower I have used and can only compare it to what I have seen of my brother-in-law’s Flymo, which also rates very highly online and is cheaper. There are a couple of smaller models from Worx that cost less, but this is the best choice for large gardens and worth the investment as it will cover your full lawn in one go.

Although I agree with some users that the installation was timely, it seems as if most robot lawn mowers have the same issue, with some taking up to a day to install. The Worx Landroid, certainly does not take this much time to set up and the app helps with troubleshooting, which is where some other mowers get marked down. 

The verdict

If you have a fairly uncomplex lawn and are looking to keep your lawn well maintained, whilst saving time, I would definitely recommend this mower. It takes a lot of patience to set up and tested me on the third occasion of cutting its own wire, but once I had rectified the problems, mainly caused from the original installation (if you want something done right, do it yourself...), I am very happy with the results. 

It now saves time on regular mowing, and means the grass can be mowed as often as it needs for optimum results. Yes, I miss the stripes, but the grass is looking healthier from more frequent trims.

About our reviews – and our reviewer

We test all appliances in the setting in which they were intended to be used – a home setting. This robot lawn mower was tested by Bethan Davis, a PR and events officer, who is currently working from home juggling her career, a full-on toddler, two even more needy cats, and pregnancy. With a lot going on – and weather that seems to have made our lawns flourish after every cut – she needed a good time saver to keep the garden trim. 

Read more:

• Worx WG779E.2 Cordless Lawn Mower review
• Best small lawn mower
• Best cordless hedge trimmer

The best electric lawn mower will replace your old, noisy and smelly petrol mower with a lightweight, easy-to-use mower that will still give your lawn a great cut. It's like a completely different experience once you switch to an electric lawn mower: we bet you'll never want to go back to petrol again. 

We've included every type of electric mower that you need to know about in this buying guide, from corded electric lawn mowers and cordless models, to robot mowers (the future) that will mow your grass without you having to do anything at all – apart from switching it on. 

If you want to check out all the lawn mower options then take a look at our list of the best lawn mowers.

What is the best electric lawn mower?

We think the best electric lawn mower you can buy is the Bosch Rotak 43 LI Ergoflex Cordless 36. It's cordless, features a huge 50 liter grass box and is great for medium-sized spaces. Read more about it below...

The best electric lawn mowers

Best for medium-sized yards/gardens

The 36V battery can last any time from 30 minutes to an hour, meaning the Bosch Rotak 43 LI Ergoflex Cordless 36 is the ideal lawn mower for medium sized yards/gardens. 

Reliable 

Thanks to its high torque and Powerdrive motor system, this lawn mower should provide a reliable cut, no matter the state of your outdoor space. It is lightweight and easy to handle, all in all, making it one of the best all-round electric lawn mowers. 

Ergonomic handles

The Ergoflex handles reduce muscle strain and make this lawn mower comfortable to use.

Efficient battery

The battery charge is very efficient, allowing you to mow the front and back lawn on a single charge.

Can't splurge for our number one choice and happy to put up with a cord? The Bosch Rotak 32 is a great choice. And if you're looking for a lawn mower that's easy to use, store and manoeuvre, it's your lucky day. 

Great for yards/gardens of all shapes and sizes

The Bosch Rotak 32 is ideal for maintaining small to medium sized lawns, and thanks to its grass comb, you can cut along flower beds, walls and lawn edges with ease, saving you the trouble of getting on your hands and knees trying to do it yourself. The Rotak 32 also copes well with multi-level gardens and complex lawn shapes and layouts. 

Will cope with tall grass

Left your grass to grow for a little longer than usual? It can also cut tall grass due to its hardened steel blade, and our favorite feature is that it's compact and has a handle for easy carrying from your garden to the shed or garage. 

Versatile

With an adjustable height setting, this Worx mower is a versatile buy that can be used on different types of grass, doing a great job on pretty much any length of grass, unless your lawn is seriously overgrown. 

Ease of use

It’s super easy to use, it feels lightweight and is easy to maneuver. The batteries are quick to charge, and the operation is very quiet. Six cutting settings mean you don't have to worry about the mower doing a good job if your lawn is a little overgrown. The batteries are replaceable, too. 

Great for medium-sized yards/gardens 

It's the perfect all-rounder for small to medium-sized yards/gardens, with a long battery charge that easily covers the whole space.

Corded model

If you’re not prepared to compromise on the power outage of your lawn mower, corded is your best option. The Bosch UniversalRotak 450 is similar to its battery powered relation, with the same Powerdrive and motor system in place for an even cut. 

Verstaile cutting

With the capacity to cut as low as 2.5cm and as high as 7cm, it’s very versatile, and can easily cut through long or tough grass. Featuring airflow technology to collect debris and a LeafCollection function to, well, collect leaves.

Long lead

The 15m lead also allows to be used it most medium-sized and larger outdoor spaces without the need for an extension. 

Pre-program functions

The Flymo EasyLife is easily programmable to set to work at desired times, and can even have your grass cut for you by morning if you set its timer for night time. 

Hands-off operation

It’s quiet, setting the boundaries so it doesn’t start mowing your flowerbeds is easy, there’s no grass box to empty, and it’ll even take itself back to its charging port if it needs to recharge – almost like a well-trained pet. You can leave it to work at night; and it also copes well with unusual terrain, such as a sloped garden.  

Mulch for your yard/garden

While this mower doesn't have a grass box, it disperses the (very fine) grass cuttings that act as nutritious mulch for your lawn, making it healthier. 

How to buy the best electric lawn mower

What should you be looking out for when investing in an electric lawn mower?

Corded or battery powered?

Electric lawn mowers are available both corded and battery powered. Corded lawn mowers are typically cheaper than battery powered lawn mowers, due to the hindrances of the electric cable; some corded electric lawn mowers may require an extension cable, and you need to make sure that the wire doesn’t get caught up in your prized hydrangea as you make your way round the yard. Due to their convenience, battery powered lawn mowers are more expensive, however, you will need to take into consideration charging time, power and how long the battery lasts in a single use. 

Power

Electric lawn mowers typically have a rotary blade, which makes them the ideal choice for long grass – great if you don’t have the time to be mowing your grass every weekend during the summer. To ensure it doesn’t make a hash out of trimming your grass, you’ll need to consider the power output. The power output for battery powered electric lawn mowers is typically lower than corded lawn mowers. 

Grass box

Aside from that, you may need to take into consideration the capacity of the grass box. Those with larger outdoor spaces should, naturally, go for a larger box, however 50L seems to be the generic capacity. If you want to cut out the middleman (the box), the Flymo 1200R Lithium-Ion Robotic lawn mower cuts grass into the into minuscule pieces, so it can easily decompose back into the ground. 

More garden reading:

• Use our garden ideas page for all your garden needs
• Lawn mower deals: the best mowers at low prices
• Best small lawn mower: 5 top buys for small gardens
• Best cordless hedge trimmer: top 5 buys for achieving the perfect cut

Curious how to mow a lawn to perfection? Your yard will be the talk of the neighbourhood with our expert-backed tips. 

It can feel like a tall order to keep grass green and growing properly, so instead of rushing through the process, it's important to learn how to give it a proper chop with our lawn pro tips. 

Familiarize yourself with these golden rules from the pros and keep our guide to the best lawnmowers handy. 

How to mow a lawn, according to a landscaping expert

Once you learn when to start mowing a lawn in spring, the ideal time, there are a few things to keep in mind before getting down to business. A healthy lawn has benefits, so let's kickstart our spring refresh on the right note. 

1. Clean up

In order to get your lawn spring-ready, there has to be a clean-up process. No surprise there. 

"Start by walking the perimeter of your lawn to trim any overhanging grass with a string trimmer, such as this Worx 20-Volt Power Share GT Revolution from Target," says Lawn Love CEO, Jeremy Yamaguchi. 

"Next, check the lawn for any winter waste. Clearing any twigs, pine needles, and pine cones is a smart move, as they can clog up or even damage some mowers."

2. Follow the rule of thirds

If you don't want to make any mowing mistakes, start by following the one-third rule: never cut more than a third of the blade of grass in one go, as cutting more can "stress" the grass, stunting subsequent growth. 

As the weeks progress, trim the grass gradually to reach the desired length. Cutting it too short, too fast is known as scalping, which can lead to disease and weed infestation.

3. Cut based on specifics

"How short to cut your grass depends on your specific grass type," Jeremy adds. "Most cool-season grasses should be cut around 2-3.5 inches, and most warm-season grasses should be cut around 1-2.5 inches, but the specific ideal length depends on the variety."

And, in case you're curious, we also asked experts how to sharpen lawn mower blades. Chances are, you're going to need to at some point throughout the season.

4. Be patient

If your lawn is looking a bit wild and overgrown after the winter, resist the temptation to cut it all right down. Even if the overgrown grass looks lifeless, there will be tender growth underneath that may react negatively to an aggressive trim. Cut gradually over a number of weeks, slowly decreasing the cutting height on your lawnmower each time to reach your preferred grass length.

5. Learn lawn care hacks

Once you've scored one of the best electric lawnmowers and you've covered the basics, check out a few hacks to make your life easier so that you're working smarter, not harder.

If you're regrowing patches of your lawn with brand new grass from seed, be especially careful not to damage this young grass. First-season grass from seed is especially tender, with weak blades that need time to establish. 

No new grass from seed should be cut before it reaches at least three inches in height. You can still mow the rest of your lawn, but you may wish to protect the fresh areas with temporary fencing. Yep, there is a common theme here — take it easy with that mower!

6. Trim hard-to-reach spots

A good-looking lawn has well-defined borders; trimming the edge of a lawn is called contouring. This can be tricky with traditional corded lawnmowers but is much easier with cordless models, such as the Flymo Contour Cordless 20V. Choose from the best electric lawnmowers, including cordless models, in our buyer's guide. 

7. Mow in warm weather

Once the summer gets going, trim your lawn often, once or twice a week, depending on the desired length. Grass can grow literally overnight, so don't underestimate its potential to grow long quickly. Besides, not mowing your lawn will result in the grass going to seed. 

A lightweight, portable lawnmower is best for frequent mowing. We have the best compact, easy-to-use models in our buyer's guide to the best small garden lawnmowers.

8. Practice good mowing techniques

For best results, avoid always mowing your lawn in the same direction, as this can lead to compacted soil and ruts. Try to vary the mowing pattern and direction. Avoid mowing wet grass, as the result will be very uneven. Equally, don't mow your lawn during lunchtime heat; the best time to mow your lawn is mid-morning, when the grass is dry but not hot. 

9. Pay attention to the edges

Sharp edges are crucial to neat and appealing lawn, but they can't achieved with a lawnmower alone. How to achieve perfect edges will depend on the general state of your lawn. 

If the edges are generally uneven, you may need to re-cut them with a half-moon edging iron or, if you don't have one, a sharp spade. Use a plank of wood or bricks to make sure you cut evenly. 

If you desire a curved effect, use a garden hose as your template. We advise re-cutting your lawn every year. By the way, our 15 garden edging ideas are sure to give you some inspo. 

10. Invest in the proper tools

"Of course, none of this is very useful without an efficient mower," Jeremy adds. "When it comes to lawnmowers, RYOBI is a brand I like. I recently tried the RYOBI 40V Brushless 20" Push Lawnmower, available from Amazon, and it performs incredibly. It's one of the easiest lawnmowers to use and it's powered by lithium-ion batteries, so it lasts for a long time before needing to be recharged."

How to know if you're over-mowing your lawn

Over-mowing is a very common problem that leads to patchy, unhealthy lawns or the dreaded lawn burn — a lawn that's turned brown seemingly for no reason. 

While summer lawn care is important, if you mow too often, you're actually preventing the grass from photosynthethising, which is what makes it green, hence the brown, burnt lawn. 

Our advice is: slow it down a little; that's what the different heights on your lawn mower blade are for. If you're mowing twice a week, and the weather's hot and dry, go down to once a week or even every other week.

Proper mowing techniques go hand in hand with other essential lawn jobs including aerating your lawn twice a year. Not quite feeling the upkeep process? Never fear: we've uncovered 12 grass alternatives for lawns that are low-maintenance and don't require any mowing. Phew!

The Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower is the upgraded, more powerful model from this well-known tool brand. Now with 40V of power and the choice to specify higher amp hour batteries, you can get at least 35 minutes of uninterrupted lawn mowing joy (as many as 55 minutes with 4.0Ah batteries) – because let's agree one of the worst things about mowing the lawn is the constant panic of cutting through the wire.

If you have been looking for a new mower, and have toyed with the idea of going cordless, then you will certainly want to pay attention. I was sent the Worx 40V cordless (also known as the Worx WG779E.2) to review earlier this summer and have tested it for a couple of months in my garden to see how it compares to the best lawn mowers around. 

With a long and narrow garden to contend with, cordless is well suited to my plot, so I was keen to see if it could exceed expectations and be a good replacement for my corded model. Find out if we thought it made the cut.

Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower specifications

• Power type: battery (uses two 20V rechargeable 2.0Ah or 4.0Ah Li-ion batteries)
• Battery length: 30–35 mins for 2.0Ah/ 40–55 mins for 4.0Ah
• Charge time: 120 mins for the 2.0Ah battery (up to 4 hours for the 4.0Ah batteries)
• Cutting width: 34cm
• Cutting height: 2–7cm (with cutting grades in 1cm increments)
• Size: 72 x 42 x 33.5 cm
• Weight: 11kg
• Grass collection box: 30L
• Lawn size: 280–350m² 

Who will the Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower suit?

While the mower positions itself as being for small to medium gardens, with an impressive battery length it could be a great replacement for larger plots where corded access is a nightmare. Where petrol may have reined supreme in these spaces, cordless models like the Worx WG779E mean you can get great results no matter how far you are from a powerpoint and we much prefer battery powered to smelly (and polluting) petrol.

It still has lots to offer for small gardens too, being compact to carry and store and most of all, it is incredibly affordable at half the price of many well known cordless lawn mowers.

Set up and first impressions

On opening the box you are presented with a stylish black and orange lawn mower that matches the rest of the Worx range (and their batteries). To set up, you simply have to put the batteries on charge in the supplied dual-battery charger (which takes roughly four hours for the 4.0Ah pair of batteries) and attach the handle to the mower. This is very easy to do, and requires no tools as the handle fixes with easy-turn bolts. 

The instructions weren't really needed which was good as I would say these were the only drawback of the product. I get it – picture led instructions are the way most companies are going now, as they are more accessible and save printing several language variants. But I really could have benefitted from some annotations in places. There is a labelled diagram at the start however which helped me check all the parts and know what each was for.

With the batteries fully charged you are nearly ready to go. Just slot them in and attach the grass box to the back of the mower – easy. You then insert the safety key by the switch. This is a great feature that makes it a bit trickier for children to start the mower and means added protection from it starting while you are checking for blockages (although the instructions advise removing the batteries before ANY maintenance).

How easy is it to use the Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower?

The buttons to start the mower are clearly marked to show what order to press them in. First is the safety key, then the easy grip bar switch that is the length of the handle. The handle itself is soft to touch and can be adjusted to the height of the gardener.

Then, as expected, you push and walk to mow. A steady pace is best for even and neat mowing and there is a roller to leave those stripes we all love. My lawn is a bit bumpy so I didn't get the perfect lines you might on a level space, but there was evidence of them in places. The 34cm wide unit is a popular sizing for mowers as it is wide enough to cover a medium space quickly, but also narrow enough for smaller areas.

It is easy to manoeuvre with medium-sized wheels that offer a good point to turn on. And as the mower is not too heavy, most users will find it easy to push and transport from where it is stored. This is aided by a compact body and a sturdy handle on the middle of the unit for carrying.

You can easily change the cutting height from two centimetres up to seven centimetres, using a handle by the front wheels. My lawn was a little overgrown before the first use, so to avoid battling with long grass, I set the mower to it's highest length to trim it ahead of trying a lower grade. This was unnecessary based on use since – the mower makes light work of even dense couch grass and weeds that have been left to run wild.

One issue I did have on first use was grass collection. The 30 litre bag is ample for a medium plot and has a flap which remains down in use to show when the bag is full. This stayed down throughout my first mow and when I went to empty, it turned out the grass had not been going in. On closer inspection, there is a plastic safety insert behind the blade that is seemingly designed to neatly guide the grass into the bag and prevent you from putting your hand through to the cutting zone, but this seemed to be preventing collection. The troubleshooting notes in the instructions did mention this and that it could be removed, and since then I have had no problems. While the mower does not mention being suitable for mulching on the UK model I tested, it had neatly dispersed the grass it had not collected back onto the lawn. It was not noticeable enough to rake away, so I left it to mulch. The US version does come with a mulching plug for those who want to use one.

Cutting results

Having switched to this from a corded model, I am very impressed with the power. I tested the mower on both Turbo and Eco mode. Turbo does lead to a slightly easier cut, but the Eco mode is very capable of making a quick job of a messy lawn – and it extends the battery length too. My lawn is only about 40m² but I have managed four mows using a combination of Turbo and Eco and there is still a third of a battery left (if the indicator is to be trusted). It also features Intellicut to optimise the cut and create even results when switching from long to short grass or denser patches.

The cut-to-edge function works well and guides the grass into the reach of the blade. My lawn goes right up to the edge of the fence which can be tricky to cut to and it did a good job, leaving just a few longer stragglers that I can get with the strimmer or a pair of shears.

If you like a really short crop, this mower might not be for you. The lowest it goes is two centimetres – which is pretty standard – but I felt like to get that low on less even ground, I had to be really sure I was pushing the front of the mower down as I walked. This probably says more about my uneven lawn than the mower, but I have achieved a slightly neater cut with other models. Either way, it still certainly does the job and with ease, too.

Battery power: using Worx PowerShare system

Worx have built up an impressive selection of tools that can be powered by their 20V batteries. Most tools take just one 20V battery – we are talking their strimmer, leaf blower, handheld vacuum, drills and even a pressure washer – but the mowers use two for optimum run time. 

The Worx WG779E.2 comes with a dual charger and two 20V batteries. Depending on where you buy it, these batteries will be either 2.0Ah or 4.0Ah and we were supplied with the 4.0Ah battery pair. Both will result in the same power, but the 4.0Ah battery will mean you can work at high power for longer.

The 4.0Ah also weighs more than the smaller, 2.0Ah so this might affect your decision if you are looking to powershare the battery with other Worx tools. While a heavier battery is not that noticeable in a mower, you might want to use the lighter 2.0Ah in things like cordless drills. However, the 4.0Ah is comparable in size and weight to the large batteries I have used on cordless drills from multiple brands and well worth the extra expense if you want the benefit or longer cutting times (a must for larger gardens).

The chargers will also run diagnostics on the battery and this is handy if for some reason the mower stops working. You can put the battery in the charger and a green light means it is charging (flashing) or fully charged (steady). A red light indicates an issue such as the battery overheating or being defective. If defective, the charger will attempt to repair the battery and continue to charge. Failing that, the Worx tech team are happy to help troubleshoot by phone.

What features and settings does the Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower have?

As mentioned before, you can use Turbo or Eco modes to cut your lawn. I have used both and find the Eco mode is sufficient for regular summer cuts. I think I might need Turbo for the first cut after winter and would use it for cutting meadow-like lawns. Having not tested this mower on wet grass, I can't say how it performs, but based on the first mow (of a rather unruly lawn) I don't think it will struggle too much.

The range of heights are just right. I can't see me needing anything longer than the longest setting (7cm) and the lowest grade is what I tend to default to. Another nice feature is the grass bag indicator flap to tell you when the mower is full, although at 30 litre capacity, it has more than enough room for my small lawn. Finally, you can check the battery life whenever you like by pressing the charge indicators. As you can buy spare batteries, I would recommend investing in a couple of back-ups if you have a bigger garden, so that you never run out of juice. However, with an easy 40 minutes of cutting time from the 4.0Ah batteries, the average garden will definitely be covered, and bigger lawns won't be a stretch – especially in Eco mode.

How does the Worx 40V Cordless Lawn Mower rate online?

With glowing reviews from a number of retailers (including users on Amazon), it is no surprise that this mower has been well received – it was even been awarded a Gardener's World Best Buy. 

Those who have tested it found no fault in its cutting and liked how easy it was to store. While the charge time is agreed to be quite long for the 4.0Ah batteries, the pay off is a very long battery life that is plenty for most gardens. Reviewers also agreed that it was light and represented great value for money.

Many reviews agree it should be awarded 4.5 or 5 stars.

How does it compare to other cordless mowers?

This is the first cordless mower I have used and I was warned that the tech involved often makes them quite heavy. That certainly wasn't an issue and I found it easy to move around and take out of my small, cluttered outbuilding. 

It holds its own well against far pricier models including those from Kärcher, Gtech and Bosch who are well known for garden and power tools – some of which are particularly lauded for cordless tech, too. And, at the lower end of the market when it comes to price, the Worx WG779E.2 holds ratings that match far pricier competitors.

The verdict?

If you have a small to medium plot, little space to store a big swanky mower, and just want something that will do a quick and easy job every weekend, then go and buy the Worx 40V Cordless Lawnmower today. Sure, it might not leave your lawn looking like that of Wembley Stadium, but for the price it delivers a very neat cut and will keep your lawn in check all summer with little effort on your part. It is also fairly quiet so your neighbours will like it, too.

And, if you are a keen gardener or DIYer looking to extend the range of power tools in your arsenal, we highly recommend buying into the Worx PowerShare selection. They promise a good choice for all your project needs and as the prices are not prohibitive, your only limitation is space to keep them all – but as mentioned before, this model doesn't pose too many issues in the storage department either.

More garden maintenance essentials:

• Best small lawnmower
• Cobra cordless Lawnmower review
• Best cordless hedge trimmer

The best lawn mower deals will help you choose a great lawn mower at a better price – and with the warm and humid summer we're having, a great lawn mower is doubly important, since the grass seems to regrow literally overnight. 

The great news is there are loads of lawn mower sales happening right now on the best lawn mowers. We've scoured the web for the best deal on models by Bosch, Flymo, and cordless masters Gtech, among others. All deals are available for online delivery too, so now there really are even fewer excuses to avoid mowing the lawn...

Lawn mower deals

Not looking for a particular brand, type or model? Great – here are some lawn mower deals on models with great user ratings. We've priced them from low to high, so if you just need a bargain mower, fast, you can find exactly what you need.

Cheap lawn mower deals

Need a cheap lawn mower and not bothered which brand as long as it does the job? Check out these bargain buys.

Deals on our best lawn mowers

Want to be sure you are buying the very very best, and at the best price? Then check out these deals on the models we have chosen as the top buys in our best lawn mowers buying guide.

Read more:

• The best electric lawn mower
• The best small lawn mower
• How to mow a lawn

This lawn mower deal could quite possibly completely change the way you look after your garden. At any rate, it's guaranteed to give you back the time you normally spend mowing your lawn. 

The Flymo EasiLife is a robot lawn mower and will indeed make life much easier by taking care of your lawn to perfection. Three rotating blades ensure a razor-sharp finish, and the mower will cope with slopes of up to 35 per cent, making it perfect for gardens with irregular terrain.

Check out the deal below. If you were after a non-robotic lawn mower, see our favourites on our best lawn mower guide.

• Shop all lawn mowers at Robert Dyas

And did we mention that you can control this clever device from an app on your phone? Easily turn it on and off without even needing to get out of the house (great for rainy days). 

It will also fertilise your lawn by sprinkling it with grass cuttings as it goes along – no emptying of containers means even less work for you.

Read more:

• Best garden furniture sales
• How to mow a lawn

Looking for the best lawn mower you can buy that does the job, doesn't cost the earth, and is portable? The Bosch AHM 38 G is the perfect lawn mower for you: this hand push model is supremely easy to use and store: it's only 38cm wide, after all. 

Find all the best deals in our lawnmower sales guide.

• Buy the Bosch AHM 38 G Hand Mower at Robert Dyas

What's even better about this hand mower is that you don't need to use any energy to run it: no cables, no petrol, no adding onto your electricity bill – you don't even need to purchase batteries to run this handy little tool. 

Don't worry, though: the fact that it doesn't use any additional power doesn't mean that it'll be unintuitive or difficult to use. High-geared wheels ensure that pushing is easy, while the rear roller even lets you achieve stripes. Very nice. 

• More small lawn mowers for small gardens in our buyer's guide

Want to know how to seed a lawn? Right now is the best time of year for spring sowing: the weather's mild but not hot, which means better moisture retention in the soil. Besides, seeding a lawn is an easy and fun gardening activity that can be done together with your partner or family. 

Note that the better quality your seed and soil, the better looking and healthier your lawn will be. If you have poor quality soil in your garden (clay, for instance), you will need to purchase some top soil. 

Find the best lawnmowers to do the job well once your lawn's grown, plus advice on how to mow a lawn in our guide (yup, there's a right way to do it!). 

How to seed a lawn

For a small to medium sized lawn, you'll need:

• Lawn seed, about 30 grams per square metre
• A garden spade
• A rake
• A bag of well rotted manure or grass fertiliser
• A contact weed killer or DIY weed killer, e.g. soap solution, in a spray bottle
• A garden hose with a sprinkler attachment or a large watering can with rose attachment

Method:

1. begin by digging up or rotovating the soil where the lawn will be, removing any weeds as you go along.

2. Mix in manure or fertiliser into the dug up soil and let rest for a couple of days.

3. Remove any newly germinated weeds by hand or using a weed killer. Spot treating is preferable than treating the entire area, and always use weed killer a few days before seeding your lawn, or the residue will kill your grass.

4. Now create a level surface for your lawn: simply tread all over the soil, gently flattening it. Then, go over the top with a rake in different directions. 

5. Seeding: to achieve an even result, seed in a grid, separating your lawn into square metres. Sow the seed in rows, first lengthways, then widthways. You'll want to use about 30 grams of the seed per square metre to get a dense coverage. 

6. Water the lawn gently with a sprinkler attachment. Leave to germinate for between seven and 10 days. If the weather is very dry. water every three days.

7. Once the grass has grown to about three inches tall, trim a third off with a lawnmower. A lightweight mower is best here, or if yours is heavy, remove the front cylinder to avoid damaging the grass. Continue mowing every three to five days throughout the fast growing spring season.

• Small garden? Check out our best small lawn mowers

Looking for an honest Cobra Lawn Mower review? Let’s face it, unless you’re a gardener of industrial scale, you won’t be looking for your second or third generation cordless lawn mower. By far the biggest market for the new cordless machines is in people upgrading (if that’s the right term – more of which in a minute) from either corded electric, petrol or, if you’re of a certain generation, push mowers.

This reviewer has tried a few cordless models out but is also transitioning from corded to cordless – and it’s worth saying from the off that the Cobra not only performed brilliantly but answered many of the concerns that those looking to swap technologies might have.

I tested the Cobra over several months, from regular late summer cutting to a recent, and much less enjoyable, first cut after winter (and about six months of no cuts at all). The Cobra was tested on our four lawns around our house, which vary in size and consist of subtly different issues, including heavily mossed lawns, softer soil types and, to use a distinctly unscientific term (but one that regular lawn mowers will understand) bounciness. The total lawn area is 675m².

For more reviews, as well as design ideas, head over to our garden ideas hub page.

Review summary

As a machine for making the transition to cordless technology seem easy - this is it. The Cobra was powerful, cut well and evenly (and quickly) and ran for ages on its clever two-battery system. Batteries were relatively quick to recharge between cuts.

A powerful machine which packs a significant punch, it has a wide cut width and could handle most of what our difficult lawn threw at it. It’s well-built and packed with features and, best of all, gave me the quickest and easiest cut I’ve ever had on these gardens. Everything from the additional cut width to the bigger basket and, of course, not having to worry about the cord all the time gave me the easiest lawn mowing experience I’ve had. It’s not the most easy to manipulate machine – a heavy lawnmower, it’s a serious solution fo the serious gardener.

Practicalities and features

Assembly from the box took around 30 minutes, and the Cobra is quick and intuitive to understand. There are three different grass gathering options, from the traditional (and easy to install/remove) rear basket to a couple of mulching outputs.

Handle height wasn’t the easiest to adjust, but the mower is pretty easy to get going and whilst not self-propelled does give an easy ride. There are seven easily adjustable cutting heights with – by some distance – the best quality adjusting handle I’ve used in 20 years of mowing lawns.

Battery life

The success of a cordless machine - and one so critical to the success of the weekend as a lawnmower – is the run time of the batteries. One of the main features of the Cobra is that it runs off two batteries so you’ll have loads of run time and in all but the biggest gardens have plenty of spare capacity.

The manufacturer claims that the Cobra is capable of 40 minutes of mowing on perfect lawn condition. On lawns that are more difficult than the standard we found the batteries lasted 75, but still ample time to complete 650m² of difficult lawn in just 35 minutes.

Cutting quality 

As regular lawn mowers will know, the key to a straightforward cut is not to cut too short. On a sensible setting of three (out of setting) our regular, weekly summer cuts were effective and fast – and helped to build strength in the grass itself.

The Cobra modulates its rotary cut speed based on the grass conditions and this works brilliantly almost all the time – our mower only cut out to any degree on the recent post-winter cut where, thanks to the excessively wet winter, we’ve had a lot of moss and the grass has become a lot more problematic.

Value for Money

The Cobra is an expensive piece of garden machinery and as such is positioned for owners of larger gardens for whom regular mowing with a corded or petrol mower is proving increasingly wearing.

It’s an investment rather than a quick solution for a single year but the pay off is clear – an easier cut, a quicker cut, and a machine that finally makes lawn mowing a straightforward and simpler task.

Corded vs cordless lawnmowers

Cordless technology has dominated the power tools market for years – and now it’s beginning to make sense for larger garden machines, too. Is it finally time to make the switch?

For anyone looking to invest in new garden machinery, the world has changed quite a bit in the last couple of years. Everywhere you look brands are launching cordless models - some, such as Karcher and Riobi, as a suite of different tools that share the same battery. But just because something is free of cable doesn’t necessarily make it free of trouble – so can cordless lawn mowers finally claim to be a viable solution?

The answer is – it depends what you buy, and it depends what type of lawn mowing action you’re into. The good news is that it is absolutely possible to buy a cordless lawn mower that can handle anything that a corded mower can and last long enough to mow even the largest lawns. And, of course, cordless mowers offer a range of additional benefits. So here are five home truths.

1. The tiny cordless mowers are good for very little...

If you’ve got a small, simple, flat lawn – perhaps no bigger than 25-40m² – you might just get away with finding the smaller cordless machines useful. For the most part, they don’t cut very well and the battery life is so poor that you might realistically get 20 minutes of cutting time off a single charge.

That said, they are extremely convenient, light and fast – the equivalent of running a vacuum cleaner on your lawn – but just don’t expect them to do very much.

2. Cordless can’t be beaten for convenience

Corded lawn mowing is a frustrating venture. Constantly repositioning the cable. Working out extension cords. Occasionally running over the cable. It slows things down and it’s a pain in the neck. With the right battery technology, cordless mowers give you a truly independent mowing experience and, thanks to the clean nature of batteries, there’s none of the mess involved in handling petrol engines.

3. You need to be organised

Clearly corded machines, with energy on tap, are not something that you need to plan ahead for. Cordless machines are different which means in practical terms that for those of us who mow on weekends we need to manage our batteries and charge them ready – because the recharge times are nowhere near the type of instant charge you might hope for.

4. The good ones are great

It’s a common myth that cordless technology is less powerful than corded. But generally speaking, with the additional power comes additional weight, which can make some of the top end, very powerful cordless machines quite heavy. For the most part this trade-off is worth it. The top of the range cordless mowers from the likes of Cobra are as good as any mower on the market for power, cutting quality and overall experience – and of course they come with the additional convenience of cordless.

5. So who is the perfect gardener to upgrade from corded to cordless?

Perhaps you’ve got a reasonably large size garden and your old corded mower has given you quite a few years of decent service. You don’t necessarily enjoy mowing the lawns and would rather save a lot of time on it yet still get good results. This is the sweet spot for a good quality cordless lawnmower buyer.

Looking for more gardening essentials?

• The best small lawn mower: compact lawn mowers perfect for small gardens
• The best electric lawn mower: corded, cordless, and robot models

Feeding your lawn is essential if you want to achieve a dense patch of green grass come summer. The perfect place to soak up the sun, or for kids to play, a lawn is central to most back gardens, but perfecting your grassy space will require a little work, and spring is the time to get started.

Whether you're working with a new lawn, or want to spruce up the grassy space you already have, follow our top tips for the perfect lawn come summer. Then, head over to our garden hub page for more ideas to restyle your outside space.

When to feed the lawn

The best time to food your lawn is late Spring (the end of March and early April) if you want to achieve dense, green grass by the summer. To do so, we'd recommend investing in a lawn fertiliser and distributing – as the manufacturer recommends – while grass is moderately moist.

The best lawn feed is the Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Lawn Food, which can be used throughout spring and summer to achieve  a richer, greener lawn.

Lawn care

We'd also recommend the following tips if you're keen to maintain your lawn in preparation for summer.

• Much like we might get a hair cut, mowing your lawn regularly is essential to ensuring overall lawn health. Browse our pick of the best lawn mowers for a top piece of kit.
• Try to keep moss to a minimum.
• Take the time to spread grass seeds in areas where your lawn is looking a little patchy.
• During dry periods, take time to water your lawn. 

Discover more gardening tips

• Garden design: how to plan, design and cost your garden transformation
• How to mow a lawn

Who knew Aldi did lawnmowers? Yes – along with its stormingly gorgeous, super affordable garden furniture range that we reported on yesterday – Aldi sells really well rated garden tools, too. And with the Bank Holiday weekend approaching (anyone else can't wait?), now's the time to buy.

Which is the best Aldi lawnmower 2019? Our pick is the Gardenline electric lawnmower (scroll to see more). But if you'd like to browse corded and cordless, petrol and battery powered, you're sure to find something that works for you in our handy round up of Aldi's best rated buys. As with all things at Aldi, we can't be sure how long they'll be around for, so we'd recommend picking up your chosen model as soon as possible. Browse our pick of the best below...

• Want to compare these models to some of our all time favourites? Browse our pick of the best lawnmowers 2019
• Big fan of a bargain? Browse our pick of the best garden deals

Looking for a specific style of lawnmower?

• The best small lawnmowers: corded, cordless and push along compact lawnmowers
• The best electric lawnmowers: from Bosch to Flymo
• How to mow a lawn

Did you know that just five daisies, two dandelions, and five buttercups provide enough nectar for a bee for one day? With bee populations continuing to decline worldwide, now is the time to act to save our precious pollinators. 

Which is why the conservation charity Plantlife are launching the No Mow May campaign, which invites gardeners to stop mowing their lawns throughout the month of May and then counting how many flowers they have on their lawns on the 25th to 27th May. 

Taking part in the campaign is very simple – it requires you to do literally nothing, apart from putting your lawnmower away. You can watch a YouTube video to learn more about No Mow May and how it will help pollinators. 

• Wildflower seeds: mixes and Beebombs to create a bee-friendly garden 

Plantlife’s Botanical Expert Dr Trevor Dines comments, 'This is citizen science at its most exciting. We’re calling on gardeners all over the UK to help us take the pulse of our nation’s lawns. By leaving our mowers in the shed for “No Mow May”, we’ll give billions of plants a chance to flower. 

'Then during the late May Bank Holiday weekend (25th to 27th May), our brand new Every Flower Counts activity will tell us which flowers take poll position on our lawns and how much nectar they’re producing. You’ll receive your own Personal Nectar Score showing you how many bees your lawn can support, and we’ll combine the results to show just how important the UK's lawns are for our beleaguered pollinators.'

• Find out how to create a bee-friendly garden to will provide food for bees throughout the summer